Author Topic: 1 and 1/2 Story 20x30 Alberta Cottage (Read 111369 times)

Alberta Curt · « **Reply #50 on:** April 08, 2008, 05:45:29 PM »

Thank you everyone for your feedback. I think I have the right idea but I will post the question in the plans support.

Once again, thank you

BiggKidd · « **Reply #51 on:** April 08, 2008, 05:46:50 PM »

Alberta Curt

The roof sheeting when nailed to the trusses makes it all tied together and very strong. There are building codes that tell you a minimum number of nails per piece and truss. If memory serves the code here is something like no more than 6 inches between nails on the edges of a sheet and no more than 8 inches on the others. This makes everything very sturdy. If you are having your house inspected ask the inspector. Not all of them are bad guys. Many times they can give you good tips to get it right the first time. Other times well.....

Good Luck

Larry

John Raabe · « **Reply #52 on:** April 10, 2008, 08:25:47 AM »

Trusses normally do not have a ridge board. They are tilted up into position right off the deck or wall plates and are self supporting (once nailed off with sheathing). Some setups have blocking between the trusses but you don't normally cut into a truss for a ridge board.

A ridge board (or it's load bearing structural kin a ridge beam) is put up first for the stick framed rafters to nail to.

Alberta Curt · « **Reply #53 on:** April 13, 2008, 01:15:53 PM »

Is anything gained (or lost) by going deeper than the frostline? (5' deep with a 4' frostline)

MountainDon · « **Reply #54 on:** April 13, 2008, 01:36:42 PM »

Security? If global warming doesn't happen and we revert to the global cooling theory of a few decades back?

I don't know that there's be any real advantage other than being absolutely sure the footings are below any likely frost depth.

disadvantage... a little more cost up front.

Redoverfarm · « **Reply #55 on:** April 13, 2008, 02:56:14 PM »

The extra footings depth are a good idea especially if it is for piers. Laided foundations it might mean and extra course of block or 1 yard more concrete on poured walls. Just keep in mind the depth of the top of the footings has to work out in block measurments of 8" to where you want them to stop. The bottom of the footings is all that has to be below the frost line so if you go with a 12" deep footing you are not really talking about that much difference.

John Raabe · « **Reply #56 on:** April 13, 2008, 04:06:07 PM »

Also, at least with a perimeter foundation, the cost of extra space comes into play. At around 4' to 5' deep a full basement starts to look like a good investment as the additional space is had for only a bit more foundation wall.

Alberta Curt · « **Reply #57 on:** April 13, 2008, 05:19:47 PM »

Thanks guys. Appreciate the quick response.

As discussed before, I have added an additional center beam and will be using 2x10x10 for the joists. What is the best method to join the 2x10's where they meet at the center? I was thinking of just using 1/2" plywood gussets on each side of the joint, but I thought I better get a second opinion.

MountainDon · « **Reply #58 on:** April 13, 2008, 05:40:34 PM »

The usual method is to overlap the joists over the center girder. I'm not the expert on that though. Others should have something more to add. $:-\$

PEG688 · « **Reply #59 on:** April 13, 2008, 06:00:35 PM »

Quote from: MountainDon on April 13, 2008, 05:40:34 PM

The usual method is to overlap the joists over the center girder. I'm not the expert on that though. Others should have something more to add. $:-\$

Yup, just a bypassing lap , about 3" min to 16" , or so, max. the crowns (off course go up) can cause some issues with the tip alignment if the lap is much longer as they misalign and cause DW or subfloor bumps / issues.

MountainDon · « **Reply #60 on:** April 13, 2008, 06:05:35 PM »

... and solid blocking over the beam, between joists, no crisscross or metal straps, IIRC. PEG?

ahwang77 · « **Reply #61 on:** April 16, 2008, 09:27:03 AM »

Hey Alberta Curt,

I'm planning on building the same cabin in Lac Ste. Anne County too, this summer. Did you have any problems with the County when you submitted your plans?

Alberta Curt · « **Reply #62 on:** April 16, 2008, 05:58:14 PM »

I'm building in Woodlands County. Had no problems at all with the development permit. Great turn around very helpful. It is the building permit that is giving me the headache. Because I'm using the PT 6x6 for the foundation I need the plans approved by an Engineer. Easier said than done.

Alberta Curt · « **Reply #63 on:** April 22, 2008, 05:14:18 PM »

I've received engineering approval for my post foundation, but one of the requirements was that I secure the 6x6 post to the cement footing with metal brackets. Any thoughts on how to best complete this task, and still keep all of the posts in the proper alignment?

MountainDon · « **Reply #64 on:** April 22, 2008, 05:26:37 PM »

Simpson CB66

with jigs to keep them aligned. There's a photo someplace from PEG...

I can't find it tonight...

MountainDon · « **Reply #65 on:** April 22, 2008, 05:38:40 PM »

Found it!!

...such perseverance...

Here's the link...
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=3403.msg36910#msg36910

Here's one image from the series. Thanks to Paul

mark.cheryl · « **Reply #66 on:** May 08, 2008, 06:14:03 PM »

Could someone just confirm for me that Alberta Curt is planning to use the "PT Wood Post Pier" which is the last diagram on the left of this page?:http://countryplans.com/foundation/index.html I will be submitting to the county for a development permit next Friday, and just wanted to make sure. Thanks!

glenn kangiser · « **Reply #67 on:** May 08, 2008, 06:58:40 PM »

No - looking back he says he is using the one on page 1A of the 1 and 1/2 story 20x30 plans which is specific for that plan.

The one you linked is similar but general.

It also has a page number M1 at the edge opposite the circle with the 1A number. It has all the details for the Post and Pier - gravel or concrete.

John Raabe · « **Reply #68 on:** May 08, 2008, 10:52:02 PM »

Yep, don't I say something somewhere about working from the general to the specific.

The post and pier article is general. A foundation plan for a specific house and structural layout will be specific with post and beam sizes and connectors sized for the loads.

Best to stick with the real thing when you can.

PS - looking at that last diagram I did many years ago - with the beam bolted to the side of the post - I wouldn't do that except with light loads. Not on a 20' wide house. That detail relies on the shear value of the bolts. Much better to sit the beam on top of the post and have a metal strap or bracket connection.

John Raabe · « **Reply #69 on:** May 08, 2008, 11:06:24 PM »

The photo of PEGs layout that MD posted above is very informative. And up to PEGs high level of craftsmanship I see. He makes even the formwork look elegant!

Alberta Curt · « **Reply #70 on:** May 20, 2008, 05:51:47 PM »

I've got my holes dug - 5' holes, 4 1/2' of which is clay. Any thoughts on the ideal backfill around my 6x6 posts? I've heard everything from rock crush, the original soil (clay), and event cement/soil mixture. I'm leaning towards rock crush but wanted some other opinions.

Alberta Curt · « **Reply #71 on:** June 06, 2008, 06:15:55 PM »

Went with the 8" cement footings, followed by 3' of wash rock, followed by 1' clay. Post are all in!! Heading out this weekend to cut them level. I'm going to use a laser to mark level and then cut with a skill saw. Not sure if this is the easiest method. Anyone have success with other methods.

I'd sure like to take a run at them with the chainsaw but I know it would be a mess.

glenn kangiser · « **Reply #72 on:** June 08, 2008, 06:39:50 AM »

I use a chainsaw. It can be a pretty good finish tool if you are careful. There are places it doesn't matter as much and carefully following lines drawn around the post can make a remarkably good cut possible.

Lots of factors enter into it though. Condition of the bar and chain etc.

Lines around and back to back cuts and a skill saw will get through 4x material or most the way through and you can finih with a good sawzall or handsaw also.

...once again of course I defer to PEG.

Redoverfarm · « **Reply #73 on:** June 08, 2008, 07:05:47 AM »

Best method I have found is to mark your level location and then use a combination square to have your line across the face of the post. Then using your combination as a guide against the foot of your circular saw insures that initial cut will be level.

Then insert your blade in that kerf going around the next face and bring your combination square again up against your saw foot and while holding it firm cut the next face. Repeat for the remaining faces. It should be real close. Normally you will only have to cut three faces and finish with a hand saw.

TheWire · « **Reply #74 on:** June 09, 2008, 12:15:22 PM »

Here is what I did when I built a pole barn and it came time to level cut the poles:

Made 2 standoffs out of 3/4" oak and attached them to the bar of my chainsaw a little further apart than the width of the posts I needed to trim.

Shot a level line along all the posts 3/4" lower than I wanted the posts to end up.

Clamped a straight 2x4 horizontally at the line on each of 2 sides of the posts. The 2x4s were long enough to span several posts.

Fired up the chainsaw and let the oak guides side across the top of the 2x4s. It quickly and evenly trimmed the posts.

A little more prep work, but it made the trimming very easy.

Jerry