14x36 in Northwest Arkansas

[bayview]

   Thanks for the tip . . . Your place is really coming together!  Well done!


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[Redoverfarm]

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jdhen didn't mean to sidetrack your progress but it will make the floor more solid.  I figured since you hadn't posted earlier that you had come to a solution.  I could picture your delimia and I think you made the best of the situation and it will probably work out fine.  When I used my  T&G I would alternate short ends at every other course so waste was at a minimun.  It actually developed a pattern in the floor with the joints falling the same distance on every other course. 

Yes I had used that jig as well as many others.  I would have to say that a "cats paw" or "Chisel" worked very well for minor pulling by driving the point into the beam adjacent to the board then prying it into place.  The divit left was covered by the next row.  But I usually didn't have enough hands to pull, hold and screw so I was like a acrobat using my leg to hold in place.  Actually they make a cam/lever puller that fits over the beam and has a handle which works well for beams that are not exposed.  For the ones that are exposed they leave a small impression on the beam.  I had even used several pipe clamps hooked together to reach from one side to the other.  There is always a solution if you just sit back, get a cup of coffee and think about it.

I wouldn't be particularly worried about he butt joint at the doorway as the door when closed will probably hide it.  But it may be fine on it's own if you made a good straight cut and they lined up.  You can always go back and put one in later if you see that it is going to be a problem.

[jdhen]

Bayview- thanks for the compliment!

Red- I'm glad you mentioned the cats paw and chisel.  That will be much easier than my technique for those small gaps that it's not worth spending the time to set up the 2x8.  The technique I've been using is a bit slow and cumbersome.
Thanks!

[jdhen]

Happy New Year, all!
Got a little slowed down by the holiday's but back at it now.   I've started on the stairs.  Got the first set of stringers hung up to the landing and I finished the winders today.  I've got temporary 2x's screwed down for the treads.



I have a question about tread width.  The lower stringers are cut  7 9/16 riser height and 10 inch tread. Up top, the rise is working out perfectly but the run for the upper stringers is about an inch and a half too long.  Should I let the top tread (last step before reaching the loft floor) be a little wider than the others or give an extra 3/8th's to each tread.  I would think the latter but I thought that maybe it might be nice to have a wider step for the first one down.  Any opinions?
It's going to be a high of 20 degrees tomorrow but that should feel warm compared to the expected 2 degrees on Thursday night.  It is winter, I guess

[Beavers]

Just noticed your tip for the homemade jig. 

I'm about halfway done with my loft floor and have been doing alot of cussing trying to get the boards snugged up, your jig will make life much easier!

Are you sanding your floor before you install it, of waiting until its all down? 
I've been sanding mine before install, but it's not laying perfectly flat, and it looks like I'm going to have re-sand it all just to smooth it out. 

[John_M]

In regards to your stair...I don't recall if you need to follow any codes or your structure will be inspected....but the on your winders...the narrowest point of the winder cannot be less than six inches...it looks as if yours goes down to a point.  I believe the reason for that is so an individual who steps on it (in low light perhaps) always will land on soild footing.  It was a problem I had to fix with mine.  My structure had to be inspected however.

Hope this makes sense....I will look for a diagram.

...ok...I found a pdf file that explains things.  Look on pages 5 & 6.

http://www.stairways.org/pdf/2003%20Stair%20IRC%20SCREEN.pdf

[jdhen]

Hi Beavers- I'm glad the jig will be useful to you.  It does take a little bit of time to set it up but it sure does a good job of pushing the boards together.  Earlier, Redoverfarm mentioned the other techniques of using a cats paw or a chisel and I found those to be particularly helpful.
I'm planning on sanding later.  I'll probably rent a sander after I lay the hardwood floors on the first floor.

John- thanks for the info on the stairs.  Luckily I don't have any inspector to contend with and while I understand the reason of not bringing the stairs to a point, I've finished mine and I'm very comfortable with them.  The natural path takes you comfortably and safely down the middle of the treads where there is adequate width to support each step.  Sometime in the future, perhaps at 2 AM, I may feel differently, but right now I'm happy! 

[jdhen]

I completed the stairs today, framed in the closet underneath the stairs and framed the platform that will support the woodstove.




I'm quite pleased with the outcome!
One thing that I'm not pleased with is that I accidentally dropped a stringer and it fell onto the shower stall 
Now there's a small spider like crack in the acrylic coating.  I've been so careful and protective of it because I new something like this could happen.....and it did anyway!
Anyone have any experience with the repair kits for fiberglass showers? Please don't tell me I have to throw it out now.

[poppy]

Your stairs look good to me.

Is that a cedar post in the corner?  Whatever it is, it looks pretty good.  What kind of railing are you going to use?

[Redoverfarm]

 jdhen I would say it is useless now. Throw it real hard and I will try to catch it. .  On a more serious note I would say that there is a repair kit available to use.  Although I have never used one if it is just a surface crack then you should be able to repair.  If it is continuous then a auto/repair fiberglass kit from a auto parts dealer should firm it up from the back side.  I am thinking they use a gel type coating onthe inside similar to what they use on boats but I could be mistaken.

How about a distant shot of the finsihed loft floor to see if it meets our approval.  

In regards to the wood stove platform I wasn't sure whether you mentioned it or not regarding the orientation of the stove face in regards to the stairs.  If you run black pipe to a insulated pipe at the ceiling you will need to protect the wood from the heat. Not only from the heat but an accidental touching while climbing the stairs.  If you did go this route rather than double insulated pipe then you could make a decorative screen out of diamond screen painted black and framed with either square tupe or angle to make it look nice.  I have found that ply, hardee board and stone makes a good insulation factor for this. Some have even went to extremes and doubled the hardee on the walls and eliminated the ply.  I don't recall what ScottA did this on his hearth walls but I am sure he mentioned it in his tread.  I would also use hardee, tile on the hearth platform as well.  

[ScottA]

I would pour 4" of concrete on top of the hearth platform. That's what I did on mine. I read in my woodstove directions that the floor under the stove must be protected. They suggested 4" of concrete or mineral board.

[Redoverfarm]

Scott I guess what they are referring to as "mineral board" would be hardee board or concrete backer.  My neighbor layed two layers of 1/2 hardee and then will thinset and tile over that. 

[considerations]

Your stairwell looks a lot like mine!  The wood stove is in the same place as well.  I think it is a good choice for the use of space. 

[jdhen]

Poppy- Good eyes! That is a cedar post.  I just set it in place to see if it would work and I think it's a keeper.  I haven't finalized plans for the railing yet.

Red- Glad you feel hopeful about fixing the shower.  I should have just framed in a stall and tiled it like Scott did.  I just didn't think I'd have the time or the know-how. 
About the platform- I built everything based on the proper clearances recommended by the Pacific Energy stove that I bought.  We have planned to set hardi board on the platform and tile the surface.  We haven't decided yet how to treat the stairs or the wall to the closet.  Are you suggesting that I need to cover the stringer closest to the stove with hardi board and tile it?  Even if the stove is within the proper clearances, those clearances are not meaning wood or drywall?   Where I live now we heat with the woodstove and it sits within the same distance to the drywall and wood trim and I've never given it a second thought.  Sure the wood gets warm but is spontaneous combustion something to worry about?
Also, I did plan on using the black pipe to the ceiling but I didn't really consider the possibility of touching it as you come down the stairs.  I still might change to double pipe but it's a lot of $$$$.I can't quite picture what you were describing with the diamond screen.  Nothing came up with on google either.  Do you have any pics or other references?

Considerations- The stairwell looks a lot like yours because I copied a number of things that you did!  I watched your project for quite a while before making the decision to build.  I really do like having the stove in a central location.  I'm glad you approve 

[Redoverfarm]

Poppy- Good eyes! That is a cedar post.  I just set it in place to see if it would work and I think it's a keeper.  I haven't finalized plans for the railing yet.

Red- Glad you feel hopeful about fixing the shower.  I should have just framed in a stall and tiled it like Scott did.  I just didn't think I'd have the time or the know-how.  
About the platform- I built everything based on the proper clearances recommended by the Pacific Energy stove that I bought.  We have planned to set hardi board on the platform and tile the surface.  We haven't decided yet how to treat the stairs or the wall to the closet.  Are you suggesting that I need to cover the stringer closest to the stove with hardi board and tile it?  Even if the stove is within the proper clearances, those clearances are not meaning wood or drywall?   Where I live now we heat with the woodstove and it sits within the same distance to the drywall and wood trim and I've never given it a second thought.  Sure the wood gets warm but is spontaneous combustion something to worry about?

I think Mountain Don had dug into this subject and he can probably give you the location that it is contained on CP site regarding underlying wood charing and heat deprivation of wood.  I am pro stone for around stoves so that would be my suggestions for the wall and possibly the area of the wall up to the stair treads.  I am not too big on tile except for the horizontal surfaces like the platform or floors.  I just think the setting for a woodstove should be stone or even a slate rustic tile at least.  I know I sound like a salesman but it to me is more pleasing to the eye with a stove and the passive heat absorbed by the stove is an added plus once the stove has died down.

Also, I did plan on using the black pipe to the ceiling but I didn't really consider the possibility of touching it as you come down the stairs.  I still might change to double pipe but it's a lot of $$$$.I can't quite picture what you were describing with the diamond screen.  Nothing came up with on google either.  Do you have any pics or other references?

There is pros/cons on black pipe for that area in comparison to double wall.  The black iron will give you more heat in the room but it also causes more cresote build up with the difference in temps vs. double wall which insulates the pipe so that temp difference is not substantial as black pipe.  But then again the double wall or insulated pipe is a good bit more $$$ in comparison.  

As for the expanded or extruded screen I have attached a site which shows what I am talking about. Although this is aluminum they also make it in steel as well.  But this site had the best pictures.

http://www.aluminum-expanded-metal.com/aluminum-expanded-metal-mesh/aluminum-expanded-metal.htm?gclid=CMLQ0J7jjp8CFWkN5QodjQxj7w

Considerations- The stairwell looks a lot like yours because I copied a number of things that you did!  I watched your project for quite a while before making the decision to build.  I really do like having the stove in a central location.  I'm glad you approve  

[MountainDon]

Wood burning stove clearances are given as the distance from the stove side/back to a combustible material. That means if there is rock, tile, cement board, bricks over drywall, the clearance is measured from the drywall to the stove. That distance can be decreased with a metal shield having an air space behind it. The metal must be 24 gauge or heavier IIRC. There must be an air space below and above the metal to allow circulation. It is amazing how effective that is. We've used that in my gazebo with the chiminea fireplace.

Some stoves require an optional bottom heat shield unless installed over bare unpainted concrete over earth.

The link to the reference John made regarding the charring of wood eludes me right now. Basically, if wood is exposed to temperatures that themselves are not high enough to ignite the wood, the character of the wood can change. The ignition temperature can be lowered substantially. The process may take many years. There are cases where improperly installed steam heat pipes have caused fires decades after the building was built. The same can occur with heat from wood burning stoves. Any heat source really.

[jdhen]

Red- I see your point about having a stone hearth.  I like that look too and you're right about it being nice to have some thermal mass to absorb the heat.  I'm just not sure how I'd work that in to the situation I've got.  The stairs directly behind the stove make it an awkward fit.
Basically, my plan was to do something like this image from the Pacific Energy catalog.  Sorry- couldn't find a cut and paste image and had to take it directly with the camera.

I'd like to think that the photographs they show in their catalog are appropriate uses for their product but perhaps they're just trying to create an appealing image instead.
MD- I did a search and did find data that supports what you're saying.  Repeated exposure to high temps can eventually turn wood to charcoal and increase it's ignition danger.  One site stated that those temps would need to be consistently 250 degrees and I hope that the clearances posted by Pacific E would take this in to account.  I think this is the data that is used to create the actual clearances for individual wood stoves based on testing.

[Redoverfarm]

Mt.Don I just remember a discussion regarding this subject and maybe you posted a picture to demonstrate what the discussion was about.  Somethings stick in my memory and somethings don't.

jdhen I think it would be a doable project to put stone or stone veneer on the two surfaces behind and to the left wall of the hearth.  One nice thing about veneer stone is that it can be easily cut to fit the tread riser configuration.  The area to the left or the closet wall is a straight run and the somewhat odd area would be the stair wall directly behind the stone. 

Here is ScottA wall behind his stove.  Hope you don't mind Scott.

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=3419.msg100334#msg100334

Here is what I did behind mine at the house.

[jdhen]

Nice work on that fireplace, Red.  Stone is definitely a natural backing for a wood stove.
I'm curious about the wood framed recessed area and the doors.  They look fairly close to the stove.  Do they get hot when it's fired up?
Any approximate idea on how much veneer stone costs per sq ft?  Can I find it at home depot?

[Redoverfarm]

Nice work on that fireplace, Red.  Stone is definitely a natural backing for a wood stove.
I'm curious about the wood framed recessed area and the doors.  They look fairly close to the stove.  Do they get hot when it's fired up?

The woodbox doors are just that doors.  The area surrounding frame is block and stone.  They do get warm but they are only about 7-8" from the stove sides.  If I had anything other than a soapstone I would probably worry about them.  They have never gotten hot to the point that you could not lay your hand on them.

Any approximate idea on how much veneer stone costs per sq ft?  Can I find it at home depot?

Cost vary depending on the company and the location from a dealer/factory.  I am sure that HD probably handles the product as well as Lowes.  I think Lowes distributes M-rock which is a company that I picked mine up at the factory which is  about 1-1/2 hrs south of me.  I think they were selling it at Lowes for about $5 sq ft but there are better buys (factory pickup for me was about 1/2).  Cost is also affected by whether you need corner stones or all flats.  Corners are about $1 higher for a lineal ft. You might check out some of the sites on this Google search for a company near you or the price of their products.

http://www.google.com/search?q=cultured+stone&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=ie7&rlz=1I7GGLF_en

Again some style of designs are more expensive as well.  Wish you were here I could probably save you a bunch. If you do decide to use cultured stone let me know and I will guide you through the process.  It is not difficult just a little time consuming for a person starting out.  But from what you have accomplished it shouldn't be hard.[/size]

[ScottA]

Usually the shower manufacturer can give you the name of someone who can repair their products. They can be fixed. I've had holes repaired before but I've never done it. I'm guessing yours is a Lasko or Aquaglass shower? 

[jdhen]

Yeah, Scott, it's a Lasko.  It was only $300.  I'd hate to do it but it might be better just to buy a new one ( and build really good protection around it  )  I'll check into fixing this one first.

[Don_P]

I have used the repair kit at Lowes. I dropped a level from the top edge of a tub shower and the homeowner said to give that a try first. It was a small area but worked fine.

[jdhen]

I got the woodstove installed just in time for the severe cold snap to end!  Still, even when it's in the 40's it's nice to have something to warm you hands by.


I've temporarily installed it on top of the platform which has a 1/2 inch sheet of hardibacker board.  I still haven't decided how to treat the area surrounding the stove but the heat shields on the sides and back keep excessive radiating heat from making the wood on the stairs too hot.

I'm almost done with the framing upstairs.

You'll note the excessive use of wood on the second wall from the camera on the left.  I wasn't sure what door I would use so I framed for one that I didn't end up using.  I added a T for the future closet wall then ended up moving it all forward.  I just left it instead of pulling it out so now I have about $15 of extra studs where they don't need to be.  Nothing like framing on the fly!

A shot of the stairs

I feel so confident with stairs now that I decided to add a temporary set to the front door.  The concrete blocks that I was using have come close to injurying me several times and my wife's Grandmother wasn't able to come inside because of the instability.  Something had to be done.

These feel much safer!

The roofers have finally started!  We've been battling the ice and snow but now that it's melted they can safely get on the roof.


I'm really pleased with the strong lines of the standing seam.

I'm planning for the siding and I found a fairly local sawmill that does a beveled edge lap siding out of local eastern red cedar.  He's sending me a sample which I hope will suit me because I'd love to use a local product.  He also does wood flooring and his prices seem reasonable.

I've got the walnut stain for the beams.  I wonder if I should still use the wood bleach to clean the water stains before applying the stain?  Any thoughts?

[muldoon]

that woodstove looks fantastic. 

as for the woodbleach, I'm pretty sure its oxalic acid your referring to.  I have used it when refinishing furniture to take up stains in wood.  sometimes no matter how much you sand a grease stain or dark water spots wood can just soak in layers and layers deep.  You cant really sand as deep as the stain is and still have a usable piece.  It does work fantastic at brightening up and cleaning wood.  If you only have a small area affected, you may need to plan who you apply it and try to even it out, if you only touch up the spots with your tannin stains it will blotch as the oxalic does lighten the area a bit. 

If your going for a finished look, yes, go for it but try to wipe it in over a larger area with the outlining edges just getting a touch damp to make the transition gradual.  If you dont mind a little character, just sand those spots clean, correct whatever stained them from happening again and go from there.