12x16 modern manshed

Started by markert2523, May 21, 2009, 07:31:27 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.


Well, I finally broke ground on my 12x16 modern manshed.  Just 200 square feet or so to be used for sitting around, drinking cold beers and playing music.  Also will have a small electronics bench and some music recording gear.  Shed style with tall wall 10' and short wall 8'.  Eventually will have deck off one side for entertaining.

FYI--just had to pull zoning clearance with the city.  No actual building permit under 200 SF.

Site---in my backyard here in Oklahoma

My best friend from the rental company--hydraulic posthole digger with 12" auger

12" holes dug and the bottoms flared out with a shovel

8" tubes in and cut flush.  Laser level helped much.

Each tube has a concrete footing with a single piece of horizontal rebar and a vertical piece of rebar

Tubes filled and simpson brackets embedded in the concrete.  Beams to be built (double 2x10" with 1/2" plywood) and waiting for concrete to cure

This is the bracket I used

Oh well, not a huge project but I am learning some valuable skills along the way.

More when I make some progress.

Thanks for all the help getting me this far.



glenn kangiser

That is one of the really good post hole diggers.

Looks like a fun project.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.


  Lookin good , maybe you should have used a CB 44 bracket ,



   More up lift strenght.

To late now but some one else might read this in  a high wind area uplift is your enemy!

That being said IF you place ends up in the path of one of your tornado's nuttins gonna hold it down.

Will you be using H-1 on your floor joist to beam connections , as well as your rafter to top plate connections?? It would be a good idea IMO.



  Maybe even theses H10's  , more uplift strenght.


Link to Simpson page / more info:


G/L PEG Oh and  w* to the forum. 
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


PEG688, thanks for the info.

I had never seen the simpson's you show---wish I had, but too late now.  Likely I will be fine, though we do get a fair amount of wind and tornados.  Maybe I'll play it double safe and use some of the mobile home auger tie-down things underneath.

I am planning to use the H1 brackets for the roof/floor joists.



Back to work on the manshed this week.

Floor joists in---2x8 with Simpson H1 brackets tying them to beams.

Finally some useful work out of the 10 year old

Kind of a stressful time raising the first 10 ft wall

One wall up and braced.  Openings for fixed windows along the top.  Dylan grilling steaks in background.

Hopefully put some more walls up next 2-3 days.  Was planning to hire a framing crew to put walls up but buddy talked me into doing it ourselves.  So far, so good!



Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


What do you think it will cost to build?
Live- Phoenix, Relax- Payson


I'm estimating about 5K to build.  Maybe more if I use cedar siding.  It will have electric and minisplit heat pump for AC and mild heat.  I based this upon the sheds at modern-shed.com.  They will deliver one to you, ready to assemble at a cost of 20K :o.  I plan to get 5K worth of fun out of this thing, but I would have to do a lot of hanging out in the manshed to justify 20K!



Looks like you're off to a good start. 5k sounds close but I think more like 7k. Depends on how you finish it.


I see your 10 year old wears his pants way up high just like mine!  Lookin good on the manspace there.
just spent a few days building a website, and didn't know that it could be so physically taxing to sit and do nothing all day!


More work on the manshed.   Walls are up and rafters cut.  Will start to put those on soon.  The rafters in the pic are just sitting up there to test the fit.

Rafter cuts were a little tricky.  Framing squares are a mystery to me.  I used a method I found in an old book where you snap a midline chalk line on a rafter and tack it up to the end of the roof.  The top plate outline is traced and then the trace lines are cut.  Then the rafter ends are trimmed for vertical plumb.  Seems to have worked and left me a horizontal surface for the soffit. 

Will likely deck the roof with 1/2" OSB and then finish with ice & water shield under three tab shingles.

Have a question about the siding.  I want to put up cedar like ScottA.   I originally planned to put OSB sheathing beneath the cedar.  Unfortunately I will likely get deployed on Army duty before I can complete that time consuming process.  I am thinking about skinning it with T1-11 siding for now and will go back later with the felt and cedar.  Will the T1-11 be a problem when I start putting on the felt/cedar.  I've heard it's fairly hard stuff.  Will the grooves present any problem such as moisture wicking?



John Raabe

I don't think you will have a problem using T1-11 for a sheathing and then going over it with felt and siding later. Just plan to block out the door and window frames so they work with the final siding surface. You could use caulk on these frames for now and then do proper flashings when the siding goes up.

PS - I like what looks like a band of 4 windows on the high wall. That will provide great light and a sky peek.
None of us are as smart as all of us.


Thanks John.  The top fixed windows will be along the front and the sides.

I sure am having a hard time picturing how I will handle the soffit where the front soffit meets the side soffit.  The front one will be level while the side soffit will slope along with the shed roof.  I plan to build the first rafter as an "outrigger" with 2x4 laddered to the first "birds mouth" rafter.  Anybody see what I'm saying?



Across the 8" and 10" walls is the built up beam 2x6 or 2x8?
Live- Phoenix, Relax- Payson


Market I think what you are referring to is the false rafter or fly rafters to establish the overhang.  It would be the same plane as the front.  You might have to add a nailer along the side of the building at the location of the bottom of your rafter.  Then attach your soffit to the bottom of the false rafter and to the nailer against the wall (level) to establish your soffit.  Same would be said for all four sides ( nailing the 2X2 (1-1/2 X 1-1/2") to use for the support of the soffit against the house and using the bottom of the rafters for the support away from the house.  

To make the false or fly rafters I use the mortise support method.  With a 2X placed on the flat at the top and bottom approximately 4' from each (top and bottom)  measure the length from the inside of the false rafter to the inside of the 2nd rafter on the building. Now motise the first rafter to except the 2X laided on flat.  End nail the false rafter to that 2X and then nail the other end to the 2nd rafter on the roof.  Then nail the false rafter support at the mortise point.
Make sense?

If you use 4X8 material for the soffit make sure that the bracing ( as you referred to as Ladder) fall on 4' increments to make the seam of the material fall on that cross brace.

Figure 2-28 shows it probably better than I am explaining at http://www.waybuilder.net/sweethaven/BldgConst/Building01/default.asp?iNum=0903  


Wow...the manshed construction is moving right along.

Looks great!  ;D


Redover---I ended up doing something that seems to work.  The slanted side walls have a top plate that is made of a double sandwich beam 2x4 with 1/2 inch osb.  The first rafter is a couple of inches within the building footprint.  I took 2x4 pieces and end nailed them to the first rafter.  They then are nailed into the top plate and the final outside outrigger is end nailed into these.  Seems to work OK except I had to do some shimming to get the outrigger parallel (I nailed it up a little low).  The short 2x4 pieces look a little slanted because of this but all will eventually be hidden by soffit.  Thanks for the good link. 

Soomb---The front (10') wall has a continuous double 2x6 with OSB composite beam.  The maximum unsupported span is about 43" for each fixed window.  The rear (8') wall has a continuous double 2x10 with OSB composite beam.  I haven't quite decided what to do with the back wall for windows, etc so I wanted to be able to be flexible.  Currently there is a 7' unsupported span in the middle.  So the 2x10 header is supported at the ends and at about 4' in from each end with triple 2x4 verticals.

Beavers and all---Thanks for the encouragement.

Was wondering if anybody had any idea what it may cost to have a thermal window company come out and install insulated transom windows in the top front windows.  The more I think about it, the more I think I will want to vent hot air out the front windows.

More pics soon.




Got most of the rafters and one of the side outriggers on.  Starting to look like a manshed!

Close-up of how I did the outrigger.

Just need to finish the other outrigger and put H1 simpson brackets on the rafters---then will be ready for roof.



Howdy Folks,

Got the roof deck on finally.  Currently covered with full coverage Grace Ice & Water (select).  Waiting for roofer to give me a bid for metal roof.

I'm still a little unsure what to do about trimming the front top windows.  I have a bid to have a company make crank windows for each one.  The windows will be 3.25" deep.  Adding up my thickness of OSB sheath + battens + cedar windscreen (like ScottA) I get about 2".  I'm thinking about trimming each window opening with 1x6" PT stock---the same stuff I used for fascia.  The trim would protrude 2" out of the window opening.  Then the window guy can push the window out a bit and I can flush up the siding to the trim.  Would likely need to install some flashing along the top of the top trim piece.  Does this make any sense?

Here is a pic of the window openings.

I am thinking about using Lexan Twinwall for the side fixed windows.  Having custom windows made for these would be prohibitively expensive.  Anyone ever use this stuff?  Kind of pricey in its own right but would likely provide a little sound/thermo insulation compared to regular glass. 




Eric, I think that is the type of window Fritz used in his Dogtrot house. Having crank-out windows up high should create a pretty good current of air to keep the place cool.  [cool]

How far apart are your beams spaced.  It looks like the overhang of your joists are only a foot, which would make your beams spaced 10 feet.  Is there any bounce or is the 2x8 rigid enough.  I'm building the same size but with gable roof. 

I'm going to rent the same auger as you.  Was it pretty easy to use or did it beat you up a little.  Just wondering if I can do myself or should I have help. Thanx for any help ahead of time.
"Whether You Think You Can or Can't, You're Right"--Henry Ford       Just call me grasshopper Master Po.



Yes, my beams are spaced at 10' and the 2x8" at 16" OC feel good to me.

As far as the auger, you should be able to do it yourself.  Augering down is stable and easy.  The hard part is lifting the entire auger out periodically to spin out the cuttings.  Once it's down the whole two feet it gets hard to pull back up.  I also used the 12" bit.  I flared out the bottoms of my holes for the footings.  It took about two hours to bore all eight holes.

Good luck.



Looking good. You might consider that commercial white vinal for the roof.


Thanx for such a quick reply, yea I guess I better get my friend to help, I have to go down 4 feet per Building Inspector.  I'll just tell my friend, he won't have to go to the gym that day  ;D

"Whether You Think You Can or Can't, You're Right"--Henry Ford       Just call me grasshopper Master Po.


Yep, four feet is a two man job.  Also remember to get the auger extender since the usual auger will likely go down only 2 feet.

Well, I got the windows framed and most of the outside skin on today.  For the windows I just used 1x6 PT stock and lined all sides of the rough opening, with a couple of inches overhanging to the outside.  I got the bottom sill to slant towards the outside by stapling in a little sliver of sill foam under one edge.  Then I had to cut the side pieces at a slight angle to make everything line up.  Clear as mud?  I never claimed to be a finish carpenter.  I will post some pics of what I did later---worked until after dark.

ScottA--Not sure I've seen the vinyl but I like the idea of metal for the long run.  Still waiting on my bid but the folks from this roofing outfit sure seem more capable and trustworthy than the first couple of guys that threw bids at me (one for a torchdown roof, but not using the underlayment--yikes!)

By the way, I saw my shed design for sell on ebay today.  I had originally drawn up my design on a simple cad program and sent it to a guy on the internet to draw it up into construction plans.  He drew it up very cheaply and now I know why----he's selling the plan on ebay.  Kind of spooky seeing my shed on ebay.  Oh well, I essentially borrowed heavily from the sheds they sell at modern-shed.com anyway.  I hope the guy doesn't end up getting sued.  Here it is: