i like that siding. is that ship lap or something else?

Quote from: CjAl on December 04, 2011, 08:46:53 AM
i like that siding. is that ship lap or something else?

No, this is a cove style siding. It also goes by different names such as Dutch lap and German lap.

Continuing from where I left off last December, I am now into the room division, electrical, plumbing, insulation, and heating part of the project.

We were contemplating for the past 3 years  on how to divide the 10x20 interior part under the loft. Finally, I had the epiphany  and determination to get done with it. So opted to have 2 bedrooms and a bathroom. One bedroom has 10 feet by 10, bathroom 10 feet by 48" (framed the shower/"4 foot" tub part 52" by 36") and the other Bedroom 66" by 10 feet.

I did the electrical rough-in including wiring and of course the electrical panel. I did the installation for a 100 AMP service just in case one day electricity would be available for us (the closest hydro pole is 4 KM away). For now I am using a generator (Honda 2000i) connected to the system. Next year I will do the inverter, Batteries, etc.

I almost finished the plumbing but waiting for the septic tank to be installed before knowing the high at which the main sewage line will enter the crawl space foundation wall. By the way I opted for a sealed septic tank versus Eco-flo as the installation of a drain field was not feasible due to the combination of high water table, rocky shallow bottom, and close proximity to the lake.

For heating, I am planning on installing the Napoleon 1100C wood stove. However, I want to put it near the rear wall which leaves me with 2 options for the flue: either go straight through the roof and have the flue almost 8 feet high above it, OR go with the ceiling curvature, i.e. going up 10 feet, offsetting  41 degrees (which is the roof slope of 10.5/12) then going 10 feet along the cathedral ceiling and then offsetting again couple of inches to avoid a rafter, then exit the roof 2 feet before the ridge. The 3rd option that we are not considering is going through the wall and then up from the outside due to the extensive work of encasing the outside fleu to protect it from cold and the poor drafting that can result from such installation. thoughts  ?

Insulation; have not started yet but bought all the necessary batts. So Roxul everywhere; 28R ceiling, 22R walls and dormers roof, and R14 dormer side walls. This is the maximum I can get with the 2x10 rafters and 2x6 walls and dormer roof, and 2x4 dormer wall.

On that note, the way the dormers were framed, sheathed, and metal roofed put me into a dilemma; there are soffit vents, but no ridge vent  . The top of the dormers where they meet the roof line is around 4 feet from the ridge. One possible way is to insulate the rafter bays without baffles, i.e. obstruct the vents. Short of installing a ridge vent which is tricky and expensive (the cottage is in almost no where), and foam spray them (also expensive due to the same reaon) what are my options? is sealing them with just insulation batts suffice since the 4 dormer are a very small part of the ceiling space (dormer width is 4 feet and the roof slope is 10/12) ?

Good to hear from you again. Thought the roof and dormers did you in. 

Well, after paying $400 to redraw the plans for the sealed septic tank, I got a call from the municipality informing me that, apart from compost toilette and dry well, only eco-flo is permitted.  This is after they told me that such installation would be approved

So I hired this past weekend a tree faller to cut around 17 trees; 5 of them too close to the house and the rest are in preparation for installing the septic tank and eco-flo combo. It cost me $1000 CAD, no tax.
It was a delight seeing this guy, who is in his late 60s, and his son professionally falling these trees with accuracy.

The old guy would look at the tree to see its orientation, and in couple of minutes it was on the ground.
The young guy would spin a string with a weight in the middle and throw it on top of the tree and then using this string he pulled the rope around it in preparation for controlled falling. One pine tree that had lots of branches had to be trimmed before falling it. So he put on his climbing suit and got his small chain saw and off he went up high.

After the trees were on the gound, they went at it and cut them in 12 inches sections. That was a $200 worth of work included in the price. It took them roughly 3.5 hours after which the area looked like a disaster zone 

Watching a real faller is artistry in motion.  The ones I have fell go to a sawmill mostly also by an old faller that is like that as well and he also owns the mill.  Then some I myself cut into stove length not artistry in motion.      Mostly blood,sweat and tears in motion. 

I think you got off very easy.  $1000 CAD that would be very, very reasonable.  Keep us informed what is goin' on....

 

You mention the siding you used is dutch or german lap siding. I am in atlantic Canada and I love the look of your build. I was wondering who the manufactor was to see if i could find a local supplier....

Quote from: ColchesterCabin on August 27, 2012, 08:19:16 PM
You mention the siding you used is dutch or german lap siding. I am in atlantic Canada and I love the look of your build. I was wondering who the manufactor was to see if i could find a local supplier....

The company Maxi Foret is located in Saint-Jerome, Quebec. here is their web site: http://www.maxiforet.com/

So last weekend I finally had my septic system installed.

As I mentioned earlier, I had to install an eco-flo biofilter system. So they installed a cement septic tank of 3400 m3 (is 4' 4" high) and an open bottom eco-flo peat moss based biofilter housing made of fibre glass. They dug around 4 feet, laid a 1 foot layer of 3/4" crushed stone, then the Eco-flo housing and both the septic tank and the eco-flo were burried for a total high of around 7' 6". It took them around 6 hours to get the whole thing done.

I was worried that they would hit the rock plate, but were lucky that around 10 feet from the house the level of the rock plate was lower and hence could fit in the whole thing. By the way the whole area covered for the eco-flo (without the septic tank) is 17x14 feet.

The total cost for this installation was for a modest sum of $9500 tax included 

Here are couple of pictures of the installation:









In that same weekend, I had planned to install the chimney parts above the roof for the woodstove that I have not yet decided on
I thought to myself since I was able to install the stack vent high up on the roof the previous week I might as well do the same for the chimney. So put the scaffolding up and took my time to stabilize it and all of that. But once I started to climb onto the roof my chicken spirit came out    So abandoned the whole thing and took down the scaffolding. I am having the guy who installed my metal roof come over to install it for another modest some of $400 CAD

So this past weekend we got the chimney cathedral ceiling support box and the rubber boot flashing installed. It took almost 3.5 hours to finish it up.
I would not recommend these Selkirk products for anyone that has a metal roof with a slope of 10/12 or higher and with rafters 2x8 and larger. These are just too short.
We had to have the lower edge of the insulation shield ABOVE the roof line by more that 10 inches otherwise there would not be enough space on the upper end for the rubber boot to cover. Even the cap that goes above the rubber boot did not have enough length to cover the lower end of the boot even after cutting the upper end to the contour of the roof. So now the shield is visible under the cap and above the boot of the lower end. Also the cathedral ceiling support box is too short on the upper end that it is maybe 7 inches below the roof! I will later attach pictures to show the final product.

Only time will tell if this compromise of the installation will hold
here are couple of pictures:

So after installing the chimney, we now bought the wood stove It is a Napoleon 1400PL all black with ornamental legs and clear door (no arches). We liked the 1400C, but is more expensive, and for a cottage that will be used every now and then, it did not make sense to spend too much on the looks. The 1400PL and 1400C has the same fire box and characteristics. The only difference is that the 1400C has nice cast iron trims (i.e. sides and top) AND $500 extra  So the total price we paid was CAD $1259 plus taxes of 15%.

 Happy Thanksgiving day to me fellow Canadians.

I installed the wood stove this past long weekend with the help of my brother-in-law. We used a hand truck to get it down from the trailer, then tried to move it up over 5 steps on the stairs which did not work. We then tried to carry it after removing the bricks from it, and to our surprise it was not that heavy to carry. The weight of the stove is 275 lbs and the bricks 125 lbs. We used a 4x4 cement board underneath the stove. I will eventually put either bricks or stones on it as well as on the walls around the stove.

It took us couple of hours to install because of the positioning of the stove vis a vis the chimney location; Chimney is very close to the ridge while the stove is near the wall. As such we had to go up 6.5 feet above the stove (using 1x 36" and 1x36-68 telescopic double pipe), 45 degrees elbow pointing to the ridge, then 7 feet (1x36" and 1x36-69 telescopic), then 45 degrees elbow to join the Chimney/Pipe adaptor. Because of the telescopic pipe it was a dilemma on how to go about installing them. Also, the instructions were not that clear on whether the screws that are used to fasten the pieces together should penetrate the pipes or just put pressure on them. We eventually pierced the pipes and fastened them with the supplied screws because the telescopic pieces kept sliding and the connectors detaching. Alas, all was installed and we fired off the stove and no smoke came through the connections and there was a very good draft in the stove which did not take time to get a roaring fire going.

I also started the installation of Roxul insulation on the Cathedral ceiling. It was tricky carving the Roxul to match the slope at the ridge and the collar ties that are just below the ridge board.

Here is the stove:

Congrats on getting to the point where you can be warm inside!   I like that telescoping pipe; it does work well and yes, the screws must penetrate the pipe as you found out.  W

We celebrated Canadian Thanksgiving too; any excuse for a turkey!     And being a transplanted Canuk it's not all that strange even though I'm in NM.

Thanks MountainDon.

I should then extend my best wishes to all of you neighbours   

Sharbin is reporting for duty 

So still doing the insulation using Roxul; R22 for walls and R28 for cathedral ceiling. So far I have installed the insulation in all the cathedral cavities except 4 or 5 bays that have very odd sizes. So figured that after I am done with all the regular sized ones, I would use whatever left, whether full batts or slices, to finish up these.

As for the walls, I still have half of it to finish.

Because of the amount of insulation to put, I would start with the ceiling then go back to the walls then back to the SafeNsound batts for between rooms then back to the ceiling. So basically I was all over the place. Then thought I should be sticking to one specific task at a time, and so I did: So as stated before, I finished (almost) the cieling, then finished one room(exterior walls and interior ones), and now continuing to insulate the rest of the walls.



I also took half a day and installed the toilet! I was torn between finishing the whole bathroom before installing the toilette, but figured that would be overwhelming and put me back in the "all over the place" category So I just doubled the floor and put another 3/4 exterior grad plywood over the 3/4 existing one, then drilled the flange hole, connected it to the main drain, then installed the toilet. On that note, I used the no-wax Franco. With that I can simply remove the toilet when the time comes to finish the bathroom and then put it back when all is done, no mess no nothing  . The plan for the toilet is to have a 52" by 40" natural stone built up shower stall, for the floor as well as the walls, ceramic tile for the rest of the washroom floor, and half wood half drywall for the rest of the walls.



On a different note, I installed a thermometer in the crawl space and inside the cottage. I wanted to know the difference in temperature between both as well as to determine how cold does it get down there. I will use this information to find out how feasable is it to put a pressure tank and a small cistern down there. The plan is to bring water from the lake (which is 30 feet or so away) and store it under the cottage, thinking that would help in winter. So far I go -5 Celcius inside cottage and -0.5 in the crawlspace, with -9 reported temperature outside.

That is my report as of now.  Roger and out

Happy Spring fellow cottagers,

Not sure whether my memory is failing me or not, but it seems to me this year we got more snow than the previous one... sharing some pictures with you 






On a different topic, although we have started building 4 years ago, we never bought insurance coverage for the cottage (we did not think we could). So we started shopping around and turned out that unless the cottage is fully finished they would not insure it. However, my insurance broker told me that I can buy a temp insurance at a cost of whopping $1,200 paid up front for 6 month coverage covering 95K   . This is after I told my broker that I have the intention of finishing the inside by fall this year  ). So we are still debating whether to go for it or wait till all is finished (well we waited 4 years... why not another one or two  ).

Ah, by the way I added pictures for previous postings on this page that I said I would but never did...

Good day fellow cottagers/builders,

Has been a while, so thought of coming back and continuing from where I left off.

Well, fall is coming fast and, as expected, was not able to finish the interior. However, did tons of things:

1- completed the bathroom. shower and all
2- complete the main bedroom (well, bought the door and stained it, should install it next week)
3- installed and painted drywalls (in the living area there would be wainscotting)...
4- almost finished installing T&G on the ceiling

Still have 4 dormers, wainscotting, one small bedroom, and flooring to do. I doubt I will be able to finish all of that before the snow fall.
so for the T&G we will/used 1x8 for walls and floors; walls stained with colonial colour, except for bedrooms where it is white wash stain, and dark walnut for flooring. Also for the pine doors, we used colonial stain as well.


I will post pictures soon.

Sharbin

Sharbin ---- you are getting to be as forgetful as I am. 

Pictures - you promised more pictures 5 months ago.......grace period is expiring my good fellow
I am waiting ....

Hello all,

 it has been a while.... a very long while I did not post here... 9 years!
Lots of personal life changes; separation, divorce, meeting, engagement, marriage, and now back in business in continuing from where I left off.

Hope all have been good for everyone... I can see lots of familiar names here... bless you all.


All has been good. Cottage still standing (although according to MountainDon's moto, if it is still standing it does not mean it is well built )

I have been running off a honda generator since day zero but now I have decided to start stage 2: inverter/charger and 400ah  LifePo4 battery set.

I can't seem to post pictures so added the below link till I figure it out.
This is just to prove that the cottage is still standing 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fg9NM8DzQOc9Od3FKgPfe2xDS8ACad7A/view?usp=sharing

view on the lake with the dock
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IzLjRvGAl8qHJWrRh7jOkavIQguQNziS/view?usp=sharing

and here is a video that shows the inside of the cottage (hope that works)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1m44xHpM_gEgFF49B205R-gzQE7aEKBTw/view?usp=sharing

Yes, there are still some familiar faces here. Welcome back.

To post an image using the new upload method...

Under the compose a new message field, to the right side, is a button labeled "ADD FILES". Click that button.

A new field will be displayed which is outlined in RED.Do as instructed... "Drag and drop your files here, or use the button to add files."  Then click on the "UPLOAD ALL" button. When the upload is completed, click on the "INSERT" button. Then click on the "POST" button.

I think that should work for everyone. I just did it for my first time with Sharbin's images.  I could not do that with the video, but it is a large file and I am tethered to my phone and a poor mobile connection right now.

Note the inserted images are clickable and will display larger.

Thanks MountainDon.
I will try to follow your instructions, although I do not see any "ADD FILES" button, but I will figure it out