Author Topic: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY  (Read 285944 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Redoverfarm

  • Journeyman
  • *****
  • Posts: 6,786
  • Applachian Mtns, West Virginia
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #475 on: December 16, 2013, 05:55:43 PM »
Todd if you remove the siding your gap will increase by the thickness of the metal so you may be in the area to where you will not have anything left structurally to anchor your wall to (neighboring 7-1/2").  Hindsight being 20/20 you might have been better off to have removed the metal and poured your floor to the edge of your cabin sheeting.  If you have room to form up on the end an additional pour might be warranted.  You could place anchors in the pour to hold your new wall.  But if you don't remove the old siding and leave it on you will still need that area filled.  I can't really tell if you have room under the edge of your cabin to pour and erect a pony wall to match the exterior wall already in place.

  It also appears that the new slab is wider than your cabin so you will have to adjust your roofing to compensate there as well.  Just curious as to why you offset your slab to extend past the front (deck side)of the cabin and short on the back side? I take it that you will replace the window with a door on that end (ground floor or both). 

Well thats my first thoughts.  Let me sleep on it. Seems that is when solutions come to mind. ;D

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #476 on: December 17, 2013, 03:16:23 AM »
John, the slab is offset 4 feet from the cabin because plumbing and electric is shallow underground on the right side of the picture, and we thought the offset might give the finished build some character.
I haven't measured the gap that exist yet, but the ~ 5" would be to the plywood sheathing past the siding.
I was at work when the slab was poured, so I didn't notice the location of the edge of slab untill later. I wanted the slab flushed to the framed wall.
I think I might call the concrete guy, and see what it would cost to pour the difference.
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #477 on: December 18, 2013, 06:42:06 AM »
anyone have any thoughts?
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline devildog

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 238
  • Hillsville, Va.
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #478 on: December 18, 2013, 05:35:43 PM »
well, my first thought is to put a ledger board on existing structure at floor level taking into account floor sheathing and finish. And I would remove siding.Then frame a kneewall level with ledger (thiswould include  floor joist and sheathing thickness. The floor joist would sit on kneewall and attch to ledger making a shelf all the way across.
 At the ends would have to be almost like a built up beam to cantilever out flush with existing struccture to build walls on that attach to existing structure. of coarse it would need to be treated lumber since it would be so close to ground.

 Unfortunatly this would create a shelf look. your going to be building stairs anyway maybe it wouldnt look so bad.

 I would definetly call concrete guy first to extend it over flush. but this is the only way i could see doing it otherwise.

Im no expert and terrible at explaining things but just thought Id throw in my idea since noone else  has yet.
Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.
Ronald Reagan, President of the United States; 1985

Offline MountainDon

  • Administrator
  • Journeyman
  • *****
  • Posts: 16,845
  • Jemez Mountains, NM; that's pronounced HEY-mess
    • My 15.75 x 30 Jemez Cabin
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #479 on: December 18, 2013, 05:38:54 PM »
I think I might call the concrete guy, and see what it would cost to pour the difference.

That's my vote.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn’t mean it is good design.

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #480 on: December 18, 2013, 07:05:27 PM »
Thanks for your input, I was crawling around looking at the gaped area, and after further inspection, it looks like it might be closer to flush with the cabin than I thought.
On another note, my trusses came in today and the floor trusses that will span the garage are 20 long and 2 foot deep.
With an 8 foot stud wall and a 2 foot web truss, what is the prefered method of sheathing to connect the upper and lower floor? I planned on running the sheathing vertically.
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline MountainDon

  • Administrator
  • Journeyman
  • *****
  • Posts: 16,845
  • Jemez Mountains, NM; that's pronounced HEY-mess
    • My 15.75 x 30 Jemez Cabin
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #481 on: December 18, 2013, 07:11:37 PM »
Both of our local real lumber yards carry 4x9 and 4x10 sheets of OSB. I used 4x9 to do our cabin 8 foot walls with overlap on the floor assembly.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn’t mean it is good design.

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #482 on: December 18, 2013, 07:44:35 PM »
Thanks Don, would splitting the floor truss at the midpoint, or sheathing from the ground up to encompass the floor trusses be preferred or ?
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline MountainDon

  • Administrator
  • Journeyman
  • *****
  • Posts: 16,845
  • Jemez Mountains, NM; that's pronounced HEY-mess
    • My 15.75 x 30 Jemez Cabin
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #483 on: December 18, 2013, 07:54:19 PM »
Hmmm. Well one thing to keep in mind is that code states that all edges of sheathing panels must be nailed.
"Wood structural panels,.... 3/8" - 1/2" .....     6d common (2" × 0.113") nail (subfloor wall)j .... every 6 inches along edges, 12" in the field....."  If the panel edges don't fall over something solid like a plate, joist or web member then you need to install blocking to nail to. So look at it in those terms and see what will work. The idea is to tie as much together as possible. Staggering the sheets up and down alternately can help in securing top stuff to bottom stuff. You may have to trim the length of sheets a bit, maybe not.  Vertically placed sheets also helps eliminate that edge nailing issue.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn’t mean it is good design.

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #484 on: December 18, 2013, 07:57:16 PM »
Thanks Don.
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #485 on: December 29, 2013, 06:11:21 PM »
Thought I would post a cost sheet for the addition so far before the framing starts.
The addition is 20x40. 10x20 of that is the entryway the other 20x30 is a garage with a 20x30 2nd story for bedroom area and a bathroom and maybe a laundry area.
Slab 20x40 with rock ledge footings.             $8800.00
Studs, plywood sheathing roof and walls,
2nd floor deck sheathing.                                $2618.00
11 7/8 TJI 's for headers.                                $132.00
Wedge anchors for bottom plate.                   $16.00
Roof trusses (14 ) 8/12 storage.                     $1030.00
(1) drop chord 8/12 gable truss.                     $73.13
(1) 8/12 gable truss.                                         $73.13
(5) stubbed scissor truss.                               $481.51
(16) 20' floor truss 24" deep.                          $1040.00
Nails.                                                                   $ 167.00
Total.                                                                   $14,430.77

This cost does not include any stair lumber
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline dablack

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 442
  • Rusk TX
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #486 on: December 30, 2013, 07:04:10 AM »
thanks for the cost break down. 

Why the 2' deep floor trusses and no engineered I-joists?  I'm looking at some 16" deep engineered Ijoists that are 26' long and $55 each.  For a qty of 16, 20' long it should cost less than $700.

Just an idea.

Austin

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #487 on: December 30, 2013, 07:46:53 AM »
thanks for the cost break down. 

Why the 2' deep floor trusses and no engineered I-joists?  I'm looking at some 16" deep engineered Ijoists that are 26' long and $55 each.  For a qty of 16, 20' long it should cost less than $700.

Just an idea.

Austin
Hey Austin,
I am putting my hvac in the joist was my main reasoning.
Also, I would need 23 ijoist, so the cost was closer to the same.
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #488 on: January 09, 2014, 04:43:36 PM »
I have somewhat of a dilemma,
When I had the slab poured, I had the garage walls curbed for a 12 foot wide garage door before researching what a door that size cost.. its quite a bit more expensive than a 8 foot door.
My question is, would it be better to have the concrete curb continued over for the 8 foot door, or would just framing in the 4 foot area be ok?

Thanks,
 Todd
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline Redoverfarm

  • Journeyman
  • *****
  • Posts: 6,786
  • Applachian Mtns, West Virginia
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #489 on: January 09, 2014, 05:13:47 PM »
Other than standard sizes special order doors are expensive.  If you didn't want to go this route then frame in 2' on each side to make the opening 8'.  If siding it will not be noticed except the inside and then it may be covered as well in the future.

Mine were special ordered and X 2 it added up but that is what I wanted. ;D 

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #490 on: January 09, 2014, 05:30:05 PM »
Other than standard sizes special order doors are expensive.  If you didn't want to go this route then frame in 2' on each side to make the opening 8'.  If siding it will not be noticed except the inside and then it may be covered as well in the future.

Mine were special ordered and X 2 it added up but that is what I wanted. ;D
I didnt even think about the siding John.
Thanks... i will probably have my concrete guy come out an extend the curbs. He lives about a mile from me.
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline Redoverfarm

  • Journeyman
  • *****
  • Posts: 6,786
  • Applachian Mtns, West Virginia
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #491 on: January 09, 2014, 05:43:25 PM »
I didnt even think about the siding John.
Thanks... i will probably have my concrete guy come out an extend the curbs. He lives about a mile from me.

I had to go back several pictures to see the curb that you were talking about.  Just looking it did not appear.  What would be wrong with just lengthing your studs in that particular area to compensate for the difference from the top of the curb.  I would use Pressure treated sill and studs if there is going to be water lying against it.  There is things you can do to make it water proof that would not require it to be poured.  Just a thought.

Mine was a two car.  I set drains in the center of each bay.  Best thing I did.  Here when the snow and ice melt off the car it is drawn to the center of the bay underneath the car and you don't step or track through it every time you get in and out of the car. 

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #492 on: January 09, 2014, 05:49:48 PM »
I had to go back several pictures to see the curb that you were talking about.  Just looking it did not appear.  What would be wrong with just lengthing your studs in that particular area to compensate for the difference from the top of the curb.  I would use Pressure treated sill and studs if there is going to be water lying against it.  There is things you can do to make it water proof that would not require it to be poured.  Just a thought.
Framing it out should be fine, I was worried about siding only going to the bottom of the studs, but we have a rock ledge poured into the slab, and we are going to rock the groung up a couple or more feet, or use veneer rock like yours, so there should be no problem.
Thanks for the idea!
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline Redoverfarm

  • Journeyman
  • *****
  • Posts: 6,786
  • Applachian Mtns, West Virginia
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #493 on: January 09, 2014, 05:59:45 PM »
Framing it out should be fine, I was worried about siding only going to the bottom of the studs, but we have a rock ledge poured into the slab, and we are going to rock the groung up a couple or more feet, or use veneer rock like yours, so there should be no problem.
Thanks for the idea!

Todd I was mainly thinking about water from the inside trying to make it to the outside. You can put a piece of Vinyle lumber which is solid vinyle 1X material under the sill plate so that any water that does decide to rest there and rot out your lumber. 

Need any suggestions or help on the rock let me know.  I have done tons to this point.  ;)

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #494 on: January 09, 2014, 06:05:05 PM »
Thanks John,
I have used vinyl before on my house in town, great idea!
When I get to the rock section of the build, I will want to pick your brain..
Thanks.
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline Redoverfarm

  • Journeyman
  • *****
  • Posts: 6,786
  • Applachian Mtns, West Virginia
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #495 on: January 09, 2014, 06:46:05 PM »
Thanks John,
I have used vinyl before on my house in town, great idea!
When I get to the rock section of the build, I will want to pick your brain..
Thanks.

There is several steps to get ready for the stone before your siding goes on so think it out first.

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #496 on: January 13, 2014, 02:42:15 PM »
Got the garage framed almost done less 1 lvl....there will be a 2nd floor on top.





This is the 10 foot wide entry 20 foot deep, I had trusses built to match the existing roof profile.
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline Redoverfarm

  • Journeyman
  • *****
  • Posts: 6,786
  • Applachian Mtns, West Virginia
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #497 on: January 13, 2014, 02:46:45 PM »
Looking good.  How did adding the extra studs work out?  What have you decided on joining the garage to the house on the short concrete slab?

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #498 on: January 13, 2014, 03:16:58 PM »
Looking good.  How did adding the extra studs work out?  What have you decided on joining the garage to the house on the short concrete slab?
I added some extra studs, I will probably alter it a couple times...
I think I might get a quote on a 10 foot door instead of the 8' door because the 8 looks so small, and if the cost of the 10' door is close enough to the 12' door, I probably will go ahead and bite the bullet and get the 12'....

Short slab wise, is where the main entry will go, the stairs for over the garage will also go in that small area..
The front wall (the side the pic was taken) will be right under 8' tall, the back wall will be 14'7" tall. A scissor truss will sit on the walls matching the profile of the cabin scissor truss. At the interior peak will be over 18' tall.
I figured I would build that section last .
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline Redoverfarm

  • Journeyman
  • *****
  • Posts: 6,786
  • Applachian Mtns, West Virginia
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #499 on: January 13, 2014, 03:26:58 PM »
I added some extra studs, I will probably alter it a couple times...
I think I might get a quote on a 10 foot door instead of the 8' door because the 8 looks so small, and if the cost of the 10' door is close enough to the 12' door, I probably will go ahead and bite the bullet and get the 12'....

12' I thought you were originally going for a 10' door ???

Short slab wise, is where the main entry will go, the stairs for over the garage will also go in that small area..
The front wall (the side the pic was taken) will be right under 8' tall, the back wall will be 14'7" tall. A scissor truss will sit on the walls matching the profile of the cabin scissor truss. At the interior peak will be over 18' tall.
I figured I would build that section last .

No I was referring to the portion that was not poured up close enough to the house.

Looks like you have a lot of figuring to do.  Stairs going up to the second floor from the house as well as going down to the main entry from the house as well.  I assume via the end door in the house.  Is that correct? Landing? Stairs running parrallel to the house to the front going down?

Not to be nosey but are you going to have a shop beside of the garage( width w/o door) or is this also part of a living area?  The reason I wa asking is that I didn't notice any windows to the front or back for any natural light.

 

Templates: 5: index (default), Ads (default), Portal (default), Display (default), GenericControls (default).
Sub templates: 12: init, html_above, adsheaders_above, body_above, adsindex_above, portal_above, main, portal_below, adsindex_below, body_below, adsheaders_below, html_below.
Language files: 3: SPortal.english (default), index+Modifications.english (default), Ads.english (default).
Style sheets: 1: portal (default).
Files included: 38 - 1124KB. (show)
Cache hits: 12: 0.00126s for 40,810 bytes (show)
Queries used: 29.

[Show Queries]