14 x 24 Builders Cottage in Nebraska

[Beavers]

I've been looking forward to the day when I could start my own Builder Project thread! 

I've hung around this website off and on for a couple of years toying with the idea of building my own house.  Last spring my wife and I finally decided that building on our own was what we wanted to do.  We came awfully close to buying a house and being stuck paying on it for the next 30 yrs.  Thankfully we came to our senses and decided building our own small house with cash was better than being slaves to a larger house built by someone else.  (ask me in six months if I still think it's such a great idea) 

My wifes parents had some land that was home to a 1970 something mobile home that they used to rent out.  So we have land, septic, water, and power all ready to go...just have to get rid of the mobile home.  It had been sitting empty for about 10 yrs. since the last renters trashed it and moved out.  Since then it has made a nice home for racoons, cats, and who knows what else.  I tried every place I could think of trying to find someone to haul the trailer away, nobody wants them, the fire department didn't even want to burn it down for practice. So, we had to tear it down piece by piece.


June 2008 The start of the demolition.




Fast forward a month or two...
I couldn't believe how strong this trailer was, I knocked out most of the studs and the thing still didn't want to fall down!
My father in law finishing it off with the "Old B"




After we got the roof down, I cut it into sections and loaded it onto a trailer to haul to the dump.  All the aluminum siding went to the recyclers, anything that would burn got burned and the rest went into a 20 yrd. dumpster.  I was actually able to salvage quite a few 2x4's and 2x6's out the mess, along with the trailer frame.




I'm so glad to be done with this part of the project!  It was the filthiest nastiest job I have ever done, a moldy racoon crap filled mobile home is not the funnest thing to tear apart. 

I finally got my plans, and should be digging footing for the piers in the next few weeks.  I'm looking forward to working with nice new, and clean building materials!

[Beavers]

My wife and I really liked the 20x30 1 1/2 story plans, but we decided we would be better off starting off small.  The great photo's of Nash's 14x24 cabin was what sealed the deal.  On paper the 14x24 looked very small, but looking at Nash's photo's it looked like something we could live in for a year or two until we added on.  I really didn't want to start too big and end up in over my head and out of cash.

My previous building experience is high school shop class, and building a solo cedar strip canoe.  Building the canoe was a lot of fun, and I still love the sense of accomplishment I get when I head off on a week long canoe trip in a boat I built myself...I can only image how great it feels to have built your own house. I've been studying this forum and reading everything I can on house building, and am looking forward to starting construction.


Here is the floor plan for the first phase of construction, the 14x24 builders cottage.  I'm hoping that we can be moved in by this time next year, not paying rent will free up a bunch of money for the next phases of building.
Planning on 12' walls to add a little ceiling height to the 14x16 loft.




The second phase is going to be 10x24 porches front and back with shed roofs.  I can't figure out how to get the roof right on 3d Home Architect, so no drawings of the roofs.


Third phase is going to be either a 20x34 or maybe a 14x34, we aren't sure at this time.

[MountainDon]

Yeah, tearing down old animal infested structures is no fun. Easier than trying to clean up and remodel though.   

I have a question about the roof. How much snow do you get? Will it build up where the shed roof ties in. My neighbor in the mountains has a single shed roof added along one side of his 16x24 cabin. Last time I was there there was a couple feet sitting there, whereas the other side (no shed addition) had slid clear.

And another thought/question... the space beside the corner shower seems wasted. I'm wondering if there's some way to slip the toilet or sink (free standing pedestal sink?) in beside the shower. That would shorten the bathroom or give space along the wall (behind the door) for a linen closet. 

And for myself there's maybe not enough window space.

Where / how is the loft access?

[Beavers]

We don't get a ton of snow here, maybe 30" a year.  I never thought of the snow build up on the shed roof.  I'll have to look around town and see if anyone with a shed roof has much snow build up.

The floor plan I have posted is kind of a work in progress, I'm guessing I'll end up changing some of the datails as I go.  I was thinking the spot next to the shower would work well for the water heater.  I'm thinking a 20 gal. electric in a cabinet with storage above it.

As far as windows, front and back door would have windows, also a window in the one gable end, and two small dormers on the front of the house.  Seems like enough to me...windows are freaking exspensive you know.   

Loft access would be located on the back wall just outside the bathroom.  Most likely the ladder design that John has plans posted for on this site.

[MountainDon]

A question I never asked was do you have to abide by any building codes where the cabin will be built?

As for windows, like I stated, it's a personal thing. I like to have enough windows in all rooms, including bathrooms, so during the day it's usually unnecessary to turn on a light to accomplish any task the area is designed for. Even more so with the increased use of CFL lamps. The life of a CFL is shortened with frequent cycling.

A quality wood or vinyl window with low-e glazing, combined with adequate sealing and insulation of the floor, walls and ceiling, pay for themselves over the years and it's easier to build with them the first time around than make renovations later. That's just meant as something to think about during the design process. If money is tight it may be better to get the better materials for getting dried in and postponing some of the interior finish work. That works best if there are no outside forces with their inspections and occupancy certificate requirements.

[Beavers]

I understand your point on using quality materials to start with.  I know I'm going to be tempted to buy the cheapest crap I can find just to be able to get the house done sooner. Like you said though it will cost more and be more work in the long run.

I had to do some checking on the building inspection part.  I'm building in a town with a population of 95, and a couple of other people in town said the "inspector" showed up to check to make sure they were building above base flood elevation.

I called the courthouse to double check, and there is no county building inspector.  The "inspector" the neighbors were talking of is a surveyor, who has to certify the FEMA Elevation certificate for building in a flood plane.

All I have to do is submit an application (no plans) to the Village Board, along with a check for $15, and I'm good to go! 

[GunPilot]

Hey Beavers, whereabouts in NE are you?  I'm near Chapman...

[Beavers]

Hey Beavers, whereabouts in NE are you?  I'm near Chapman...

Just a couple of hours down the Platte River from you near Columbus.

[Beavers]

I always find it helpful when others share their costs in their posts, so I thought I would pass on my info.

I've finalized my estimate of materials and costs for my foundation of 8" diameter 8' tall concrete piers.  Not included in this estimate are forms and bracing for the sonotubes, I will be using salvaged lumber from the trailer house.

I also have to figure my PT 6x12 beam, along with the beam seats.  I'm going to be fabricating my own beam seats, I just checked the prices that Simpson wants for those things...NO WAY! 

I'm going to be purchasing the Sonotubes and rebar this week.  It still too cold to start digging, but I can go ahead and get started building forms, as well as cutting, bending, and tying rebar.






Concrete

Footings

2'x2'x1'  = 0.1481 yards concrete

0.1481 per footing x 8 = 1.18 yards concrete


Piers

8" x 8' = 0.2325 yards

0.2325 per pier x 8 = 1.86 yards concrete


Utility enclosure

Footing

16" x 6" x 16' = 0.44 yards


Total concrete =  3.48 yards

3000 psi Concrete @ $79.50/yard + $25 charge for less than 7 yards

First pour- Footings

1.18 yards pier footings
0.44 yards utility enclosure footing

1.62 yards + 15% = 1.86 yards

2.00 yards @79.50/yard + $25 = $184.00

Second Pour - Piers

0.83 Yards + 15% = 0.9545 yards

1 yards @ $79.50 + $25 = $104.50


Total Concrete Cost = $288.50


Rebar


Pier Footings

#4 (½") Rebar

4 - 16" sections
4 - 24" sections

14' #4 per footing x 8 = 112 feet

20' #4 rebar @ $8.18 x 6 = $49.08



Piers

#4 (½") Rebar

4 - 7.5' sections


30' #4 rebar per pier x 8 = 240 feet

20' #4 rebar @ $8.18 x 12 = $98.16


Total Rebar Cost = $147.24





Sonotube Forms

8" x 4' @ $5.17 x 18 = $93.06





Excavator Rental

Cat 303 mini excavator rental

$232 per day




Total Foundation Cost

$760.80

[considerations]

"The life of a CFL is shortened with frequent cycling."

Mountain Don - here is the dumbunny question: What's "frequent cycling"?

[MountainDon]

To be more correct I should have stated "short on cycles reduce CFL life"

It has been shown that turning a CFL on for less than 5 minutes reduces a CFL's life by up to 85%. That makes it a very expensive lamp.

CFL's should be left on for 15 minutes or more. That will extend their life.

This is one reason incandescent lamps should NOT be banned as some green groups want. There is a place for them. The small amount of extra electricity a lamp in a closet uses would be negated by the extra costs of manufacturing the short lived CFL, in those sort of uses.

[considerations]

Thank you. 

[glenn kangiser]

Concrete here is about $130 per yard plus extras.

[Beavers]

I'm still waiting for the ground to thaw enough to start digging for my piers.  In the mean time I've been working on building forms and tying rebar, for the footings and piers.



I ended up splicing two four foot sections of sonotube to get my 8' lengths.



Got a great deal on the rebar, and picked up the PT 2x12's for my beams.



I spent all weekend tying the rebar cages for the piers. 









I'm hoping to get the foundation staked next weekend, and hopefully rent a excavator and get started on the footings the following weekend.




Sonotubes - $136.82

Steel, and PT 2x12's for beams - $629.49

Total Cost - $766.31

[glenn kangiser]

Good looking cages - I have made a few on various projects.

[Beavers]

Good looking cages - I have made a few on various projects.

Thanks Glenn

I went thru almost 900 feet of tie wire...my fingers are a little sore now. 

I was watching the iron workers the other day at work, man are they fast!  Would of taken one of those guys less than an hour to do what took me all weekend.

[considerations]

Looks just like the pros did it.  Excellent!

[Beavers]

Looks just like the pros did it.  Excellent!

Thanks, considerations! 

[Beavers]

It's finally warm here, and the ground had thawed!

Wife and I did a little surveying yesterday and got all the piers staked out.  I went with 25' offsets, so I have plenty of room to work with the excavator.  After I get done with the digging, I'll set the batter boards.

Also got the mini-excavator rented for this weekend.  Finally get to start digging!
Just gotta find some gold plated shovels for a proper ground breaking ceremony. 

[Beavers]

I got my footings and waterline trench dug this weekend!
While going over my numbers one final time, and figuring how much I had to cut, I realized I made my first screw up on this house. 

All this time I've been planning on 8' tall piers sitting on top of 10" tall footings.  I've been planning on putting the footings 48" deep, making my house 4'9" above grade.  Somehow I forgot that on top of the piers will be a 11 1/2" tall beam, and on top of that will be 11 1/2 tall floor joists... that would put my floor at 6'9" above grade!   

I already have my forms built and rebar tied, so I decided just to dig deep and sink the footings to 6' below grade, putting my floor back to 4'9" above grade.  This will still leave my floor at almost 4' above base flood elevation.

Friday on the way home from work, I stopped and picked up the excavator.  The place is closed on Saturday and Sunday, the guy told me just make sure to have it back by the time they open on Monday morning.  So I got the excavator for the whole weekend for only $250, plus it olny had 6 hours on the hour meter when I picked it up...nothing like brand new equipment! 

I got the trench for the water line dug Friday night and got started on the footings.
I didn't like the idea of working in a 6' deep narrow trench so I decided to step the trench out some.  I wanted to be sure to have plenty of room to work on the footings.


I dug out the stepped section first to about 3' deep, and then moved down into the hole to dig the final 3' deep narrow trench for the footings.




I dug ramps to be able to get in and out of the hole.  I had trouble getting back out though, and was kind of worried trying to think of how the hell I would be able to pull this thing out if I got stuck!  I ended up using the arm to push myself back up out of the hole. 




I was really amazed at the volume of dirt I created with this hole.  I wasn't really expecting this big of dirt piles, going to have to see if the neighbor will rent me his bobcat to move some of my dirt piles.  I don't think I can get a concrete truck close enough now.

I calculated I ended up moving about 160 cubic yards of dirt, and put 13 hours on the excavator to get it all done.  A couple of times while digging it hit me as to how big a project this house building thing is going to be.  I know while staring at the huge hole I had in front of me I wondered what in the hell had I gotten myself into!


And...of course what happens after you dig a big hole?

Why it rains! It rained yesterday...last night...today...and is supposed to rain the rest of the week too! 

Anyone want to go swimming in my new pool? 

[Don_P]

It would be a good idea to run some rebar up out of the footings to tie to the column cages. This pic is something I was thinking about to pick up some bracing, it has never seen as much as a postage stamp.. Pieces of plate stuck through slots in the sonotube to make mounting points for heavy angle. The plates should have a hole through them inside the column with a bolt or piece of rebar in it to keep it locked in place.


A sawzall with the blade removed running along formwork is a fair poor boy's concrete vibrator.

[Beavers]

Thanks for the tips Don.

I was thinking of drilling and then epoxy in anchors to mount bracing.  The mounts set into the concrete sounds like less work, and stronger.  Still working on all the bracing deatails, but I have access to fairly cheap 3" galvanized angle iron, seems like it should make some good x bracing between the piers.

I'm planning on tying the footing rebar to the pier rebar.  I'm stubbing out 3' vertical bars to tie into the piers.  It's kind of tough to make out in this pic, but rebar like this coming out of the footing.



To quote PEG - "When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about ." 

[MountainDon]

That would be a good solid way to mount bracing to a concrete pier. Any concerns about corrosion in the underground parts?

[PEG688]

To quote PEG - "When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about ." 

Well I'll be danged some one reads my stuff 

[glenn kangiser]

hmm Looks like a Northwest Dragline.  Beavers, looks like you are really getting into that excavating.