any tips for using wall jacks?

[countryborn]

We raised our first wall!  Finally!
We started with a short wall, 24 feet, with only one window.  So it was the easiest to build.  we attached the 1/2 inch plywood sheathing before raising the wall, so that made it a bit heavier.  So we rented 4 wall jacks, so the 2 of us could raise the wall.  Didn't get instruction on how to use, so there was a bit of trial & error, but eventually got the job done, a few inches at a time.  Used 12 foot 2 x 4's.  Braced the wall with 8 foot 2 x 4's after it was raised, so that we can use the 12 footers over again with the jacks.  Nailed the bottom ends of the 12 footers to the subfloor, & nailed scrap 2 x 6 pieces behind them to hold them in place while jacking up the wall.  That worked, sorta.
3 walls to go.
Next time, we plan to attach most of the cap plate before trying to raise a wall, so the wall won't flex so much.
Any other suggestions?
Any other tips for 2 "mature" folks building their first house, like, easier ways to do stuff, so we don't hurt ourselves?
Thanks!

[MikeT]

I found that the most nerve-racking part for us was the fear of having the wall pushed too far the other way and flip.  That anxiety made us move very carefully.  To hedge our bets and add a measure of security, I attached a 10 foot cable 6 feet up the wall and 8 feet out on the floor.  This gave me a 6-8-10 right angle and kept the wall from being pushed out too far.

When it came to pushing that final stage (when the jacks needed to get pulled away), I found that it was best for someone to stand in a window opening in addition to other folks pushing from the top of the wall and walking it up.

Hope this helps,

mt

[ScottA]

Build the walls in shorter sections. Say 10-12', much easier. I did mine alone without jacks. I used sheet metal to make a hinge at the floor so the wall couldn't slide while I walked it up.

[davidj]

Our "front" (20') wall of the 20x30 has 9' walls with 12/12 roof, i.e. 19' high in the center.  It's also built of 2x6s and a fair bit of bigger stuff thanks to snow load (6x6 post, 4x6 studs for shear wall sections, 4x8 over windows).  Is this reasonable to pull up in one go with 4 or 5 (reasonably strong) people?  Do we need jacks? I've done 20' 2x4 walls before without problem but this seems to be a lot bigger and heavier and I don't really want to build it then have to bring in a crane!

[glenn kangiser]

You won't be able to reach high as it goes up - seems it may want to smash you as it goes over center.  At least some thought about how you will handle it may be in order.

[PEG688]

This will be long and hard to follow but here goes.

  #1: Wall jacks will help a lot .

     I take it you are going to frame the gable with a  modified balloon style. 

Like this ,



I jacked this at the blocking line , not on the rafter slope. Worked great.   

     What I do in this case is frame the wall , then lift it so you can first get a 2x4 block under the wall.


      Back up a bit , this assumes you have toe nailed down the bottom plate so the nails act like a hinge of sorts . This also assumes that you've done that toe nailing before you sheathed the wall , it ensures the bottom plate is straight , because of course you snapped lines and squared the walls up on your box sill .

Lots of assuming in all this.

So assuming all thats done , we've squared  up , snapped lines , toe nailed the lower plate down , sheeted the wall , now where ready to setup to lift it.

So up a bit , 2x4 block under top plates , now take a 2x6 and use it as a lever  and hoist the wall up so you can sneak a couple or 3 saw horse under it in as far as you can put then.


#2 : As Glenn mentioned it gets high fast so ladders need to be ready for the jack guys.

Have you used wall jacks before? Do you know the basics of how they work? nail a block behind the post so it can't slide out , etc etc??

  #3:   Once that wall is up about 8 feet attach a couple , maybe three One right at the peak or as close as possible , with one nail driven all the way in . They will pivot and act as a hold backs handles  (when  the wall is all the way up ) , they also can have blocks nailed behind them to act as breaks IF the wall gets away from you for some reason .

Run like hell if it does , no one will stop it IF it does and NO ONE needs to get crushed by it . Just let it fall and start over  IF this happens .


  #4: So as it gets higher the weight sort of gets easier to deal with , I also attach one 2x4 brace on each end of the wall , you can do this right away , again one nail  , near what will be the top of the wall , lay the 2x4 the opposite way the wall is raising as the wall come up those end wall braces just follow along and  are there to hold the wall without the old , "Find me a stud for a brace deal , and hurry the heck up !" if you do it right it's hanging right there all you do is nail it to the block sill and then add another nail at the top .

So all that is more than likely confusing as hell.

But if you read it and think about whats happening at each stage you'll maybe figure it out.

Nothing is ever simple to write out like this . I can do it in my sleep , but writing about it is another thing.

Ask questions , try to be specific about whats not clear. 

This shorter wall we just lifted , 3 of us I think , with two guys the wall jacks would be easier.

 

G/L PEG

[davidj]

Thanks a lot for all of the great info - the description was pretty easy to follow.  This part of the project is still a way off, but it is definitely one of the most intimidating parts of the build and a part where experience beats any amount of thinking about the problem!  Having a picture in your head of how the hard parts happen makes it more comfortable moving forward on the easier stuff. 

I've not used wall jacks yet but can try them out on the shorter walls first.

And I guess this wall is modified balloon style.



(apologies for the bad scan).

[PEG688]

I'd suggest,

  #1: moving those two 4x6 outward 3 1/2"  so they could be one piece from the bottom plate to the under side of that upper window header.

  #2: I'd also use 4x6 LVL for those , as they will be stronger and more importantly will be straighter and STAY straighter long term than a D.Fir 4x6.

  #3: Then use standard 2x6 trimming under the , what I assume is , front door header.

#4: Yes that will change the upper window sizing a bit , at least the two outer ones will be smaller , the center one could stay the same size if you added the same type "trimmer" inside the 4x6 LVL's , the mullions would be wider , and the outer window smaller.

It might look cooler if you stepped those two outer window down a bit at the top only , so if they (all 3 where) where 3'0" windows keep the center one at 3'0" but get the two outer ones a 2"6" . That will do a few things , all good IMO.

#1: Make that gable Look better.

#2: Give you a stronger wall by one piecing  the 4x6's .

#3: Move the two outer window down and away from the rake board trim.

  You'd still have the same look just  a stronger, straigher (long run),  better looking wall.       

[PEG688]

I've not used wall jacks yet but can try them out on the shorter walls first.

The problem wit that idea is you 'll run out of room to lay out the lofted wall.

  Temp. bracing , other walls all will hinder the building of the gable wall.

It really needs to be the first one , or one's if the other gable is similar to be built and stood.   

[davidj]

The problem wit that idea is you 'll run out of room to lay out the lofted wall.

  Temp. bracing , other walls all will hinder the building of the gable wall.

It really needs to be the first one , or one's if the other gable is similar to be built and stood.   

I guess me usual technique of doing the hard bits last isn't gonna work here!  But I can probably do the other gable wall first as it's platform framed thanks to the loft.

[davidj]

I'd suggest,

  #1: moving those two 4x6 outward 3 1/2"  so they could be one piece from the bottom plate to the under side of that upper window header.

  #2: I'd also use 4x6 LVL for those , as they will be stronger and more importantly will be straighter and STAY straighter long term than a D.Fir 4x6.

  #3: Then use standard 2x6 trimming under the , what I assume is , front door header.

#4: Yes that will change the upper window sizing a bit , at least the two outer ones will be smaller , the center one could stay the same size if you added the same type "trimmer" inside the 4x6 LVL's , the mullions would be wider , and the outer window smaller.

It might look cooler if you stepped those two outer window down a bit at the top only , so if they (all 3 where) where 3'0" windows keep the center one at 3'0" but get the two outer ones a 2"6" . That will do a few things , all good IMO.

#1: Make that gable Look better.

#2: Give you a stronger wall by one piecing  the 4x6's .

#3: Move the two outer window down and away from the rake board trim.

  You'd still have the same look just  a stronger, straigher (long run),  better looking wall.       

This all seems a great idea.  I guess with the current framing there's not a whole lot preventing the wall folding at the top of the window/door headers (pretty much nothing until the roof's sheathed!) - something I hadn't thought about before.

I think I should probably do something similar on the other gable wall.  Currently it's platform framed (due to a loft) and simpler 'cos the center line is free of openings.  It's currently drawn with two sections of 6x6 to hold up the main roof beam, separated at the 9' high top plate.  I'm thinking I should really run the 6x6 all the way up so that it's also less likely to fold at the top plate there too.  And make this LVL too?

With this stuff, I guess there's a big difference between a "house designer" and someone who actually designs and builds houses.

Thanks again for the great advice - I'm gonna print out a copy of this thread and keep it with the plans so I don't forget any of the details.

[PEG688]

Your welcome.  BTW I don't do much design work , I just tweak whats given so it works better. 

  I just noticed your side window are dropped down    , I guess I was rushing , well,  I know I was rushing to get off to work  and missed that detail.

  Yes the  longer 4x6's will stiffen that wall and make it easier , well stronger to raise with the jacks.

I had thought about in my mind using continuous header over the door and lower windows , BUT I think the longer 4x6 "give" you more of a stiffener for that wall.

Big walls like that tend to flex a little in the wind and they really can flex when being stood up.

Remember to take other point loads / under 4x6's , all the way to direct bearing.

In other words IF you have a box sill , block with solid blocking directly under those two posts , all the way to your sill plate / or to the beam that also may be under the post. Depends on your foundation really.  But that load should be transferred to  soild / direct bearing. Lots of point  load there!
     

[countryborn]

ScottA - We thought about building the walls in 12 foot sections, just not sure how to solidly attach the segments. Building 2 x 6 walls, studs 24" o.c.  Used 8 foot 2 x 6's for bottom plate; nailed studs over the bottom plate joints.  We could use 12 footers for the bottom plate, I guess.  But not sure how to attach the sections.  Leave out the stud that would be at 12, then raise the 2 adjacent sections, then fit in the stud & somehow everything will be straight & square & plumb?
Anybody got any clear photos so i can see how that works?
Maybe I will try to send a photo of the wall we have tomorrow.
We did use a rope, which runs thru the window opening & is nailed to the subfloor, as a backup measure, also the exterior plywood sheeting runs 2 1/2 inches lower than the bottom plate.  Will be nailed to the green plate.  And nailed the edges of the bottom plate to subfloor with four or five 16d nails before raising.  Helped keep the wall in place.  Read that somewhere.

[n74tg]

Okay, how much wall weight can one reasonably strong person manage.  My walls are 2x6 studs, 10 foot length, on 24" centers, with 1/2" OSB nailed on prior to lift.  Can one person handle a 10' section, how about a 12' section (without wall jacks).

thanks 

[glenn kangiser]

Maybe if you are tough enough.  Guessing it is about 400 lbs - the floor will support the end  ~200 lbs so you will be lifting - pushing around 200 lbs.  Be sure to figure out how to stop, hold and brace it ahead of time.

[PEG688]

Okay, how much wall weight can one reasonably strong person manage.  My walls are 2x6 studs, 10 foot length, on 24" centers, with 1/2" OSB nailed on prior to lift.  Can one person handle a 10' section, how about a 12' section (without wall jacks).

thanks 

I figure  8' high-ish x 10 foot of wall per man , a big header or odd  header lay out ( more windows to one side) could tilt that "rule of PEG".

The old stick the saw horse under as far as possible trick should not be over looked.

The "turn over point" where you move your palms from a get it up off the floor to the "push the wall up" direction is the hard part. If you have good stout saw horses you can sneak them  ( pick wall on one end scoot horse under , go to other end , lift and scoot horse under) under the wall so you don't have that turn the hands point.  So your pushing upward only.

Hope that makes sense.     

[glenn kangiser]

I'd stand on a plastic bucket... not really I was just kidding - ouch - don't do that. 

[n74tg]

Okay, 200 lbs is more than I want to have to wrestle alone above my head. So...here is my plan.

I have a 12 volt powered, 2000# capacity electric winch that I am planning to build an A-frame for and using to lift my wall sections.  I'm thinking 16 foot 2x6 for each leg, either a 4' or 6' base on the bottom, of course more than adequately cross braced, and well connected to the subfloor joists.

I will also have 2x4 follow along braces already connected to the top of each wall section, with probably a notched board connected to the subfloor for the brace ends to fall into as they follow the wall up. 

And, I'll use the strap the bottom sill to the subfloor to keep the bottom from moving. 

As I'm doing all this by myself, I try to go overboard with planning, and to have plenty of backup systems in place in case something goes wrong. 

And finally, I'll have escape paths planned out in case everything goes wrong. 

Comments/suggestions guys??

[glenn kangiser]

Seems there may be interferences there.  How about something straight up the side of that tall foundation anchored into the concrete blocks?  Maybe one 4x6 or so and be done with it -

[n74tg]

Glenn:
That A-frame is going to work just like a big wall jack.  Hinged to the floor joists with some BIG hinges (and 1/4" lag screws), it will start out vertical and then rotate on the hinges over to a 45 angle as the wall goes up.  There will be a brace that comes out the back side to stabilize the A-frame when in the vertical position.  As the A-frame angles over the brace will just follow along on the backside.   

Do you still see interference problems...thanks

[glenn kangiser]

Seems like it should work, Tony.  You may want a rope tied off to the back side too to keep it from flopping over the wall as it picks up the weight.  After up a bit the wall will support it.

I would say it may be good to make sure the "A" frame is tall enough to extend past the wall when the wall is vertical so there is room for the winch.  Maybe something for safety stops so it doesn't continue going although that should not be much problem if the  frame is resting on it.

[n74tg]

Glenn:
That is why I chose 16' 2x6 for the legs.  For a 10 foot wall in the vertical position, the diagonal is 14.14 feet long.  I have almost two feet of extra length using the 16' boards. Then if I use a 6' long base on the A-frame, then I will have 15.71' of usable length out of that 2x6; still more than enough to mount the pulley.

[glenn kangiser]

Good Tony, you did the math - I was too lazy to check it out.