1 and 1/2 Story 20x30 Alberta Cottage

Started by Alberta Curt, February 24, 2008, 11:32:12 PM

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John Raabe

None of us are as smart as all of us.

Alberta Curt

Thanks guys.  I'm racing against time, trying to get the roof, windows, and doors done before winter.  Do you guys have any opinions on what would be the bare minimum I need done for the winter?  Wrapped and shingled?  Roof?


MountainDon

Walls wrapped with something that will last timewise till the finish wall surface goes on.

Roof finished with final roof material.

Doors and windows installed and properly flashed. At least that's what I'm aiming for.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

MountainDon

To that let me add soffits completed or at least whatever is needed to seal off the spaces between the rafters to keep birds, etc. out of the building.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

John Raabe

I agree with Don.

For you walls you could put up 15# felt held in place by thin battens that will later be spacers for your siding and serve as a rain screen.

Here are some other options on the topic.
None of us are as smart as all of us.


Redoverfarm

There is also a new product if your interested in it. I posted this awhile ago nut it was lost in the shuffle.

http://www.vaproshield.com/products/wallshield/

Alberta Curt

Starting sheeting the roof this weekend.  Pcitures a little on the dark side.  I didn't realize how steep the 12/12 roof was until you have to spend the day standing on it.



Before I proceed to the felt paper, I have a few questions:

1. Do I need to install a drip cap? (whatever that is)
2. Will 1/4" staples be sufficient for the installation?
3. What does one do with the felt on the gable ends?  Wrap it underneath and staple it?  cut it flush to the end?

John Raabe

Here are some guidelines.

http://www.hometime.com/Howto/projects/roofing/roof_4.htm

The drip edge would be on the bottom of the slope where water goes into the gutters (if installed). If you are subject to ice dams consider a waterproof membrane as well.
None of us are as smart as all of us.

Redoverfarm

To try to answer your (?). Drip edge first then felt over it. Drip edge is usually held by 1 or 1-1/4" roofing nails.  On the gable end I usually cut it flush to the outside of the drip edge.

If you do not have any additional roofs (shed) to tuck under the primary then chances are that it will not back up.  Shoot mine with a 10/12 metal and the snow shot off landing about 6 feet from the house.


MountainDon

Quote from: Alberta Curt on August 25, 2008, 12:37:41 PM
I didn't realize how steep the 12/12 roof was until you have to spend the day standing on it.

... One of the reasons I have a 4.5:1

To condense the important points...

Drip edge (at eve) goes on first
Roofing felt or membrane goes on nest. Upper sheets lap over the lower sheets. 2" minimum
Drip edge on rake (gable ends) goes over the felt. The felt trimmed to roof edge.

With metal roof, the rake I've seen goes over the roofing material and down the edge/fascia.



Lightened your image...

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

peteh2833

Alberta Curt, are your rafters 16' material and are you making the ends square cut or plumb cut??
Pittsburgh Pa for home

Tionesta Pa for Camp

Alberta Curt

Rafters are a combination of 16' with three 10' pieces.  I have plumb cut them.

Alberta Curt

#112
Latest progress........I've put the sheeting on the outside too low in some spots.  Needs to be cut so it doesn't rot.  Past first inspection!!


glenn kangiser

"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.


Alberta Curt

#114
Update........one side of metal roof is done..................


Sassy

Wow, you've been working hard this summer!  Lookin good!
http://glennkathystroglodytecabin.blogspot.com/

You will know the truth & the truth will set you free

Alberta Curt

Going to install the stove pipe and flashing tomorrow.  The flashing is a 3' square piece of malible aluminum, which they say just lays on top of the metal roof.  I'm not sure this is going to look that great.  Does anyone have any experience with stove pipe flashing on a metal roof?


TheWire

I just put my chimney through my standing seam metal roof.  I cut the hole for the chimney with a sawzall from the inside.  I used a fine tooth blade to go through the OSB & metal roof.  The hole is a 12"x12" square to fit the chimney's cathedral ceiling support.  I then used a tin snips to extend the top cut of the hole in the metal roof to be wide enough to slip the 20" wide flashing under the metal roof.  The flashing overlapped a standing seam in the roof which didn't matter at the top because it slipped under the roofing.  At the bottom of the flashing where it hit the seam, I cut the seam back part way and cut the flashing to over lap the seam.  I then used gasketed screws to fasten the flashing down.

This looks like it should shed water nicely.  The only questionable area is the point where the flashing meets the edges of the top cut in the metal roof.  There is a small spot in the intersection that water may get through.  I applied a quality silicon caulk to this area and under the flashing before I screwed it down.

I used the Selkirk Super Pro Stainless chimney system http://www.selkirkcorp.com/superpro/Product.aspx?id=106  This picture is similar to the flashing I used.




BTW, I spray painted the flashing to match the roof color prior to installation. 

Jerry

Redoverfarm

Jerry most metal roof flashing boots that I have seen are rubber and mount to the top of the metal roof.  There is a metal aluminum band running on the outside edge that can be bent to conform to the ridges and valleys of the roofing.  The screws are anchored to the metal roof through these.  None are slipped under the upward edge of the metal roofing.  But generally these are used with either double or tripple wall insulated pipe such as illustrated in Mt. Dons post I listed. Just from a first glance it looks like your boot might be for a shingle roof.

If you are using insulated pipe you could always use a large diameter rubber booted flange to go over and up against your already installed boot.  They make a boot that is split on one side and lace up like a pair of boots if you cant get it over the top.  I think I saw them up to 24" dia pipe before.  A google brings tons up to choose from.  The reason that I mention it is that when you try to go from under to over on a metal roof there is an area that is weak sealing being that intersection of that Over/under at the metal roof.  When the metal roof changes in temperature it will expand and contract and that movement would scare me thinking of the intersection I was speaking of. Yes now it is sealed but through a couple of temperature changes it might open up.  There is a link below for the boot I was referring to. The grey and black boots are High temps.  With your 6" pipe the OS diam would probably be 8-10" then your existing boot would probably put it to 12-14".  So either a # 8 or #9 would work.

http://pipebootexpress.com/universal/pages/universal/main.htm;jsessionid=86DFD249C185B26ECDA5BEE807F32E70

I don't want you to think i am just being critical but I would hate to have your project damaged at this point in the game.  You have done a commendable job.


peteh2833

Great looking place Alberta Curt. I'm almost ready to throw up my rafters. If you don't mind me asking what did you pay for the metal roof? I got a price yesterday of $1339 which includes all of the panels, gable end metal trim, facia board metal trim, the ridge vent/cap, the blocking for the bottom so no critters get in and tax. Also, what does Hockey_66 stand for??
Pittsburgh Pa for home

Tionesta Pa for Camp

Alberta Curt

Thanks peteh2833.  I paid $4700 for everything that you mentioned.  It's my 13 yr olds site so I'll need to ask him what the significance of hockey_66 is, but I think its just a reference to his jersey number.

$4700 vs $1300......wow!

peteh2833

Ok. I was just wondering if it was a reference to Mario Lemieux. I'm from Pittsburgh Pa
Pittsburgh Pa for home

Tionesta Pa for Camp

Alberta Curt

I exchanged the flashing for this boot.  This will look alot better.........


Alberta Curt