Dogtrot at Hightop

[MountainDon]

Getting closer and closer to moving in day. 

[wingam00]

John, what did you use for the cap on your retaining walls?? 

Mark

[Redoverfarm]

Mark those are all individual poured concrete. I formed them using 2X4" and tapcons. I boxed the area with 2X4 which I tapconed to the block 3/8" - 1/2" below the top of the block. That way the water can not enter between the cap and the block and makes it stronger by tieing all the blocks. Then took another round of 2X4 and elivated it 2" to create the lip which I attached to the original 2X4(tapcon) with deck screws.  Then mixed the concrete and worked to create a crown. Not real hard just time comsuming. I did the long pour where the generator and propane tank will set in one pour.  That worked me pretty good as I was only alble to mix so much in the small mixer I had and it started setting up because of the weather.  Just remember to take a trowel and drag along the inside of your forms to move the aggregate back and then use your hammer to tap the air bubbles out.  Leave it a while til it sets up some and then finish it just as regular concrete work.

[glenn kangiser]

If you don't want to use Tapcons for temporary anchors, you can drill a 1/4 inch hole through the wood and into the concrete a couple inches with a Rotohammer or hammer drill and drive 3 - 16d nails in at the same time for a temporary or sometimes permanent anchor depending on the situation.

[carla]

I absolutely love the re-used old log cabin timbers. It looks great! Your work shows a lot of TLC has been applied to the project. You've made a sucessful blend of the old with the more modern materials.

[wingam00]

Thanks John and Glen on the advise on the wall caps. Now all I have to do is build a retaining wall to make the cap for.  This is a project that will have to wait until I am done will all the "inspections".  If not if the wall is over 4' high (which it will be about 6' high ), the wall has to be "formally and professionally designed".
In other words cost me More money which I do not have and even if I did would not spend it on block wall.

Mark

[glenn kangiser]

If doing that, Mark, and the soil is not fairly self supporting with good drainage -drainage above - french drains - gravel - weep holes etc. be careful - put tie backs into the slope behind -etc.

I can't tell you how much as I am not an engineer, but I did jackhammer out a 4 foot wall that moved about 15 feet and hit a garage or right up to it.  It had drains but they plugged.

[wingam00]

John, so I am clear what you are says is to measure about 15 feet form where I want the wall and place it there so over time the wall move to the place where I really want it to be.   

Just a like dumb humor, you are right John in your advise, thanks for the info.

Mark

[glenn kangiser]

It's glenn, but yes -- that could work too.   

Check your soil type -- some have a lower coefficient of friction, therefore move farther than others.   

What did I just say?

I don't even know what that was.

[Redoverfarm]

One down and one to go. I finished the flooring/ceiling in the loft/kitchen room of the cabin this week and started on the flooring/ceiling of the master bedroom/loft in the addition.  Once I got my generator parts it was full speed ahead today despite the starting temp of 19F this morning. By mid afternoon the outside went to 42F but the inside was still at 33F.  I thought I would post a few photographs of the ceiling and floor.  The ceiling is a pickle/white finish and the floor side is walnut stain which will closely resemble old barnwood oil finished floor when finished.  All of the flooring was prefinished(semi) to resist scratches and soiling during transport and installation. Not to mention it would be a real chore to try to finish the ceiling between the beams,  Later another coat of sealant will be applied as well as touch up stain from the installation.

Photo of the ceiling in the kitchen



Photo of the loft area over the kitchen toward the fireplace flue and living room



Photo from the kitchen loft to the loft area over the master bedroom.  WATCH your head.  No it's not quite that bad just stay close to the flue when you walk to the other loft.  Not pictured is a 48" walkway adjacent to the flue as approaching the stairway



Photo from kitchen loft to the flue/chimney. This will be stoned the same as the outside of the chimney

[ScottA]

Floor looks great.  You've really done an amazing job so far. I hope mine turns out half this good.

[CWhite]

Prefinishing the floors/ceilings makes that job nearly done.  That was well thought out, and looks terrific.  My floors upstairs are also the ceilings downstairs, but I still have to finish both sides.  I can truly appreciate the foresight and planning that is going into your home.

I know the fire place flue upstairs will be stoned, and I will look forward to seeing pictures of that when it's done.  What a cozy room(s) that will be up there. 
Great job going on.  I hope the warmer temperatures I'm expecting this weekend make it up there to you.
Christina

[Redoverfarm]

Christina I hope the quality of materials on your T&G was better than mine.  It appears that the manufacturer had assured that the v-groove side was in good shape but the flat(flooring side in multiple use) or back side wasn't.  Every thing lined up on the V-groove side well but the flat side there was differences in thickness, width and T&G cut.  I guess in probably 95% of the installation it is made for ceiling and walls and the back side is not seen.  But for my purpose it goes well with the age of the stucture.

[Sassy]

Your cabin is incredible, Red!  Love it   

[Redoverfarm]

Finally finished the loft floor yesterday.  I am glad that is out of the way. My elbow feels the same way.  I was really amazed at how much room I finally ended up with on the 16'X18" addition.  When added to the landing area of the stairs which wrap around the fireplace flue it is actually the biggest room in the cabin. If I had only used heavier beams I could install a bowling alley.  Total floor space is 16' X 22'.

Straight flooring install for the majority but it did present a few problems when it came to the intersection of the two loft floors.  Wasn't sure exactly how to accomplish it as unlike the roof squareness was an issue in the two log structures mating as one building and to compound it the intersection of yet another built on. I had debated about a transition strip to address the union point since the flooring was running 90 degree to each other but I just took my time and cut on a slight angle. Shoot it's just a log cabin. Turned out OK.  To top it all off and add to the delimina I had rabbited the log walls and support verticle post to accept the flooring and it was at these intersections as well. Through trial and error I got it done.   Will post a few pictures later.  Now onto the next step which will be the 1st floor bathroom framing or chinking of the interior log walls. Weather (temps)will be a deciding factor.

[Redoverfarm]

I spent the yesterday and today trying to put in a "oh crap I forgot" switchs to control the ceiling light/fan combo and a set of cateye spotlights on the fireplace.  No problem huh. Well with framing it might not be but with log walls it presented some problems. But with Willy at the helm I think I can iron them out. With the other switches and recepticles I pre-drilled chases for the wires. But I forgot the two aforementioned.  Now that the chinking is done on the outside I cannot angle drill (ship auger) down through the logs for a chase. So I am runing the wires near a corner intersection in the joint of the two logs.  Not much room but when all is said and done it will be covered by the intersecting chink. Thank goodness that my feed side is on the opposite wall which is joined by the board and batten room. 

To work out the rest of the day I ran chink wire between the logs to later put the chink in, Time consuming but very effective. I am using 1/4" rabbit wire and attaching with roofing nails.  I tried a air stapler but didn't like the results. I can beter guage the tension with nails.  The weather is not good right now to chink as freezing temps happen every night and I would't want the chink to freeze ( too much work to replace).  So I will get all the wire ran and when the weather warms I will start with the mortar.

I promised some pictures of the loft floor and I will try to include. Along with a picture of the "Oh Crap" if you promise not to laugh.

                         Intersection of loft floor (different directions)

                         Stairway location to the loft

                          Loft over bedroom


                           OH CRAP SWITCH

[glenn kangiser]

Your place is really cool, John.

[CWhite]

That loft area is big.  Great to see the progress. 
Christina

[Redoverfarm]

Spent the majority of last week and 1/2 chinking as usual.  I managed to finish the kitchen after approximately 40 hours.  The room measures 11'6" X 15' ID.  The photograph is of the appliance wall and counter area.  There will be basicly only 2 appliances in that area which will be the frig and gas stove with the remaining area for base cabinets.  Due to the limited cabinet space I am going to try to match the cabinet space on upper cabinets with glass front short wall cabinets.  To retain the log look I am pondering to install plexiglass back panels as well or leave them open.  I am not crazy about a blacksplash as I think it would take away from the log look.  I might be forced to put something to keep the stove grease from getting on the logs and wall.  Maybe some stamped tin panels ?  The recepticle boxes are just above counter heigth for small appliances. If you were wondering where is the sink? To maximize the counter area I have choosen to put the sink in a center island.

The chink in the following pictures appears multi-colored but it normally takes 3-4 weeks for the chink to reach it's natural shade.  The top joint was done first when I started and the subsequent joints to the floor followed from top to bottom.  Using the recipe for the mortar it was measured evenly to attempt the same shade.  Let's hope it does once it cures out.


                                    Kitchen Appliance Wall


This week started the living room chink.  I had problems with a switch that I had left off in the design phase.  Thats what you get for doing your design on a brown paper bag. Well it is history now and the wires which were unsightly have now been covered. Yesterday I finished the front wall and only have two long walls and a foyer left on the living room walls.  I would say anoher two weeks and this portion of the cabin will be complete.  Then onto something new.  I would imagine I will tackle the ceiling with insulation and T&G (living room)and/or drywall(lofts).  I need to get the ceiling finished in the living room first as I do not want to install the hardwood and then have scaffolding bucks rolling on the floor. Next would probably be the framing of the bedroom/bath on the main floor. I guess I will cross one of those bridges when I come to them.
 
                                  Now you see it

                                  Now you don't

[ScottA]

Looks great Redoverfarm. I woudn't worry too much about the chinking drying to different shades. Stuff like that adds intrest and character IMO. If I was doing it I'd just put open shelving above the base cabinets. Would look more log cabinish I think. Is that a word? Maybe just a short backsplash of some sort of stone? The stamped tin might look good too.

[Redoverfarm]

Scott I was thinking more on line of a sealed cabinet of sorts to keep the dust off the dinnerware if you know what I mean.  I had never though of stone but then again I would have the stone to contest with the stove "by products".  I would like to incorporate some type of range hood.  Maybe I could do it in stone to compliment the logs and distract from a backsplash.  A mans point of view in decorating is not always the best.

[MountainDon]

Whatever you use as material I vote for having enclosed cupboards. We did an open shelved kitchen many years ago and I ended up building doors to keep the dust off.

[Redoverfarm]

My thoughts exactly Don.

[glenn kangiser]

Looks great Redoverfarm. I woudn't worry too much about the chinking drying to different shades. Stuff like that adds intrest and character IMO. If I was doing it I'd just put open shelving above the base cabinets. Would look more log cabinish I think. Is that a word? Maybe just a short backsplash of some sort of stone? The stamped tin might look good too.

We use a lot of open shelving with curtains over them -- curtains can be changed for a different look.  We like the ease of use also.  No doors to slam and bang back and forth so both ways have advantages.

[BiggKidd]

John,

  Your cabin/house looks great, just read all seven pages. WOW.

Did you have any trouble getting permits? We are hoping to build a log home on the land we recently bought.

 Keep up the great work. Couldn't look nicer.

Larry