My 15.75 x 30 Jemez Cabin

[TheWire]

Dam Power.   

[MountainDon]

I didn't get anywhere near the amount of work done that I wanted to. 

I woke up with a developing cold or something. It turned out to be a sinus thing. Anyhow I drove into Santa Fe to pick up our new wood burning stove, a Vermont Castings Aspen, in basic stove black. That used up Saturday AM by the time I got it up into the mountains.

Here is is in its unfinished corner...



I bought an extendable, 38 to 70 inch, length of welded seam 22 ga stove pipe. Once the roof is on and the insulated chimney is installed there will be a section of stainless steel insulated chimney connecting to it. It should make for a nice clean sturdy safe installation.

Here's a close up of the stove. That's an ash tray under the firebox. The bottom heat shield is laying on the floor. I forgot the fresh air inlet adapter. It should go on before installing the bottom shield. 



The stove was packed with the largest bag of silica gel I've ever seen. (stove top is 15 x 23)



I began to install the propane feed line into the cabin. For now at least we'll be using 40 or 60# (10 - 15 gallon) portable cylinders. Maybe someday we'll get a 200 gallon or so ground mount tank. At that time we'll remove this one. So for now there will be a platform built to hold 2 tanks up out of some of the snow and mud. That's a two stage automatic change over regulator. It's an heavy duty RV item, so don't try this at home.   



The pipe goes down the side 5 feet and then up through the bottom plate. THose 2x's are temporary until the siding goes on.



I ran out of energy shortly after installing a short section of the black iron pipe inside. More on that later.

[glenn kangiser]

Looks good, Don.  At least you have an excuse.  My get up and go got up and went.

[ScottA]

That wood stove could probly heat your cabin even without insulation. Looking good on the gas line too. What's it feeding? Cookstove?

[MountainDon]

Thanks guys.

The Aspen wood stove is physically small but is rated for up to a bigger cabin, 650 sq ft IIRC. It's a heavy sucker, 240 lbs. 

The gas line feeds, or will be feeding, a propane fridge, a 2O" range, RV water heater and 18,000 BTU wall heater. The wall heater will not see much use IMO, but could be handy on cool mornings when it's too much bother to build a small fire.

That's basically the same size of equipment that we have in the RV, which has a 1/2 copper line as the feed (a smaller ID than the iron pipe).

[TheWire]

Don,

I have a couple questions about your woodstove.  I'm getting close to buying one for my cabin.

Can I ask you how much your paid for your wood stove?
Is it OK to use standard single wall stove pipe until you have to penetrate the ceiling or roof?
It looks like your chimney will be penetrating your roof close to the eve like mine will.
Do you know how high your chimney will extend past the roof?
Does it need outside bracing?
Is there anything that needs protect the chimney from snow sliding down your metal roof and into the flashing?

Thank you,

Jerry

[MountainDon]

Jerry,

$800 for the Aspen. Not bad IMO for a handsome well made, nicely finished, fire brick lined, cast iron, made in America, wood burner that has a working thermostatic air inlet control. That's complete with the bottom heat shield. NFPA requires the use of a bottom heat shield nless the stove sits on unpainted, bare concrete poured over earth. There is an optional rear heat shield that we're not bothering with as it only reduces rear clearance by a couple inches. We will be using the outside air inlet kit.

Standard single wall stove pipe is fine. I went the extra mile for the welded seam, extendablee, pipe within a pipe, because those are so much easier to use when positioning the stove than any of the other methods/materials. The SS insulated pipe will start with a 12" section hanging from the bottom end of the sections that sit on the ceiling support and penetrate the roof.

I haven't calculated the insulated pipe lengths exactly at this point. I have a 12 " section for the ceiling drop, plus 2 three foot sections to go from the support and through the roof. I believe that will raise the chimney top to about 2 feet above the peak. If not I can add on. Two feet is the minimum for good dependable draw no matter which way the wind blows.

I will be installed two "stays" to brace the chimney against high snowfall levels and/or high winds.

My neighbor down the hill has a similarly located chimney on his cabin and has no problems with snow.

[Sassy]

Looking good, Don    That is a fine looking wood stove - and not a bad price for all the great features.  Looks like you'll be pretty snug soon! 

[MountainDon]

VC has their own foundry so they control the quality from the beginning through the whole process. They even have their own enameling plant if you opt for one of the glossy colored versions.

[soomb]

The stove will burn wood or use propane?

[MountainDon]

 

[Redoverfarm]

Don did you get a flue brush as well.  From the looks at all that pine you will probably need it more often than you think. I would caution you not to put a flue cap with the wire around it as it will cresote up real fast. 

[MountainDon]

Oh yes John, I bought a new brush last year for use on the gazebo chiminea flue, to use with my 25 year old fiberglass wands.   

Thanks

[soomb]

So I am gonna take a stab and say wood. 

The talk about propane lines is what threw me.  I should increase my reading comprehension and slow down the speed a bit.

[MountainDon]

The talk about propane lines is what threw me. 

Topics meander at times. 

[desdawg]

4 wheels per roller set.


The real desert back here in the 'burbs is an average of 8.5 inches a year. Wonder how that comapres to desdawg's desert?

I am playing catchup now that I am on a computer that doesn't run out of steam. About 8" is what it shows for Maricopa and I am just a ways (18 miles) south.
Seligman weighs in at over 12" closer to 13"
That cabin is looking good Don.

[MountainDon]

As I go along I am collecting little bits and pieces that will later be fitted into the whole. Today another bit arrived. There will be a solar PV array and a bank of batteries wired for 24 VDC (more efficient for the the inverter). As I have mentioned I will be having a few 12 VDC items; inside water pressure pump, a couple lights, an outlet for cell phone charger...

Rather than make a 12 VDC tap off the battery bank I have decided to go with a voltage converter. I selected a model from Solar Converters. I purchased it from solarseller.com.



It is a bi-directional converter, 24 VDC to 12 VDC, or 12 VDC to 24 VDC. The 24 VDC side is rated at 10 amps, 12 VDC is rated at 20 amps. I couldn't restrain my curiosity so I cracked it open...



Assorted little electronic stuff. Nicely made. 12 gauge wire. Internally fused on both the 12 and 24 volt sides. The folded double sawbuck is for size relationship. It did not come with the unit. It cost 8 of those.

It will eliminate any battery voltage imbalances that could be caused by center tapping the batteries.

The plan is to run 24 VDC from the batteries, inside to this under the kitchen counter. Then 24 VDC to the ceiling fan and 12 VDC to the other stuff. Ten gauge wire for the run from the batteries to the converter.

[Redoverfarm]

Well Don it looks like you got your moneys worth as they had a $20 rebate as well.

[ScottA]

Yeah, I was gonna ask if the 20 was under the lid. 

[glenn kangiser]

That is the best way you could go, Don.  No worries now.

[soomb]

  boy am I learning a lot, and boy-o-boy do I have a lot to learn!

[considerations]

I'm with you on that..If nothing else is happening on this project, I certainly am learning. 

[MountainDon]

We're back! 

First, I tested all the AC electrical done so far and the cabin still stands.
No fires; didn't even pop a breaker. 

I made a temporary connection from the generator to the service panel.





Don't try this at home unless you are a professional like Glenn or myself.          

Sorting out the one uncompleted circuit I realized I was short one run of cable.    So that will be completed next weekend.



That's a normal on-off switch for the porch light, a switch for a switched half outlet and a one end of a three way switch setup for another switched half outlet. Let it be noted that those are extra long pigtails with more wire nuts, etc. than will be left in the final state. It's just easier for me to check out whether or not I screwed up this way.    So far, I have not. 

... more news and pictures later...

[MountainDon]

Costs. Everything costs. No one has yet asked me what I've spent so far; other than K, but here ya go.   

For the shell... meaning...

footing concrete and rebar
6x6 PT piers
built up beam materials
floor joists, 16" OC
subfloor T&G OSB
wall framing, 2x6
4x9 OSB, wall sheathing
#15 felt
ceiling joists, 2x8
rafter materials, 2x6
4x8 OSB, roof sheathing
#30 felt
4 sliding windows, low-e glass, vinyl frame
pre-hung exterior steel door and lockset
Great Stuff foam sealant
nails, screws, Mr. Simpson's products,
26 gauge metal roofing
installation of metal roofing ($250 quote, paid them $280)
Dektite formable boot/jack for the chimney and bathroom roof vent (bath vent not yet installed)

$6000

[ScottA]

Nice work Don. You're gonna make Glenn jealous with that fancy wiring job.