14x24 on 5 Acres in Mounds, Oklahoma (2nd CountryPlan Build)

[Redoverfarm]

Monday - April 11th, 2016

Thanks again John, I totally get it now!

It took me a bit of deep thought to catch everything you meant but I worked
it out in my head step by step and now I get it. That's a cool idea, I definetly
didn't think about doing that. Anything 1" thick would work though right?

Yes that's correct.  You might want to check the width of your 2X6's.  I have seen some that are not a true 5-1/2" anymore.  Just like other wider 2X material (2X10 = 1-1/2"X9-1/4" , 2X8=1=1/2"X7-1/4") and so on .  Not that it will make that much difference in your application but you might keep that in mind to try to get the same on each side.

I guess it is like everything else anymore.  You don't actually get what you pay for.  Here is a little chart showing the actual size of wood.

http://www.engineersedge.com/commercial_lumber_sizes.htm

[ajbremer]

Tuesday - April 12th, 2016

Haven't done anything on the build in 2 days now, waiting for payday and getting 2x6's.

I have a little efco M4000 chainsaw that I have to get running again so that I can cut away that
large brush pile that you've seen right next to the build in a few videos, it's a fire hazard. My
chainsaw is bogging down and won't go full rpm. I've replaced the plug, cleaned the air filter,
and put in 100% gas with the proper mixture of oil and it still boggs down and doesn't run
full rpm. I have to spend time and get inside it and see what's up.

Anyway, I'm excited about putting my first beam together and getting it up and level. I don't think
I really need to glue it together, do you? It'll be nailed and screwed and also laying on top of those
posts and connected to the 2x6 floor joists at their tops so I don't see how there could be any danger
of them coming apart.

[ajbremer]

Thursday - April 14th, 2016

Got the 2x6x12 footers to do the beams...ready to go!

[ChugiakTinkerer]

My simple rule is that all chainsaw problems are carburetor problems.  Unless the fuel tank is empty!

A little cleaning of the carb should do wonders.  A carb rebuild kit is probably available.  A little how-to is here: http://homeguides.sfgate.com/clean-echo-cs-400-carburetor-102512.html

[ChugiakTinkerer]

I wouldn't glue it, just nail according to the IRC guidance.  The 2012 version is available at: http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2012/icod_irc_2012_6_sec002.htm

Item 30 of TABLE R602.3(1) FASTENER SCHEDULE FOR STRUCTURAL MEMBERS says 10d nails 16" on center, staggered.  Just be sure that all splices are supported by a post.

[ajbremer]

Thursday - April 14th, 2016

Appricate it ChugiakTinkerer!

Yes, I ended up using 12 footer 2x6's and all 'staggered' joints are on top of a post. Here
is a short video of beam #1...it was heavy but not too heavy:

[ajbremer]

Thursday - April 14th, 2016

I'm glad I work close to Lowe's. I'm able to go there during my 1/2 hour lunch break and
get 2x6x12 footers!

[ChugiakTinkerer]

That beam looks manageable by one.  I'm building my front and back decks as part of the 16x28 house, so we're looking at a 44' beam, built up from 4 2x10 16' PT.  I'm afraid to do the math on how much that will weigh!

Good job not hitting the car.

[ajbremer]

Friday - April 15th, 2016

Did a nice video about installing my first beam this morning:

[ajbremer]

Friday - April 15th, 2016

Got beam #1 up and into position, ready to mark the posts for cutting:



Another video of the same, a little more explaining:

[ajbremer]

Saturday - April 16th, 2016

Got Beam number one all situated except for the carriage bolt installation in each gusset. I'm
very pleased with the way it turned out and it seems very sturdy. I got it all nice and level too!

I did many videos today and am in the process of uploading them. I ran into a few different
situations, problems, had some new ideas, etc. that I'd like to share with you. I think I have
about 7 videos for today so stay tuned, I'll get 'em uploaded asap:

[ajbremer]

Sunday - April 17th, 2016

Finished installing carriage bolts to each gusset, 2 on each side:

[Adam Roby]

Cool... its coming along... maybe not a dance, but at least a little shuffle is in order.   

[ajbremer]

Sunday - April 17th, 2016

Saturday was setting beam one and I created a bunch of videos about the process:

Saturday: Part 1


Saturday: Part 2


Saturday: Part 3:


Saturday: Part 4:


Saturday: Part 5 (About Levels):


Saturday: Part 6


Saturday: Part 7

[ajbremer]

Monday - April 18th, 2016

Just a pic of my beam notes.

My posts are not exactly the same from one row to the other. They
are only off by a little bit but I had to measure to get exact locations to where the staggered
joints will lay right in the middle of the post and also the end of the 2nd beam must be diagonally
checked for squareness.

In order to make the second beam perfectly diagonally squared I added 4 inches to each end of
the 2nd beam, each end is 4" longer than the first beam. This way I can take a final diagonal
measurement once I lay the staggered joints over the posts. Then I can cut a little bit off of each
end to achieve 'perfection'.

[Redoverfarm]

AJ not following WHY there is a difference.  If you have used batter boards set up to run two rows of post they should be parallel.  Then go up the string line for the post position and insert a stick pin through the string on both sides it would give you the distance from one post to the other.  Remove the string line and pins from the batter boards.  Dig the holes for the post.  Then temporarily set the post.  Reattach the string line to the batter boards.  Go back and reattach the stick pins.  The string line on the outside of the post length wise will give you a perfect parallel set of post.  Then by measuring up the string line and inserting pins at the same intervals will give you the exact post spacing on each side. Providing you start at the same end and offset the pins on the same side of the post 1-3/4" to hit dead center of a 3-1/2" post. Plumb, Brace and pour.  Note to self.  I never take down my batter boards until I reach the point of no return and the last post is permanent.  Often re-string off of board to check as I go.  I use drywall screws to set the ends of the string lines to the boards.  You can move them without throwing the board out of line if hammering nails.  Once they are perfect diagonal I leave the screws in place. Taking the string off/on as needed.

The spacing should be the same from post to post on opposing sides.  The beam make up should hit the beam joint over the post on each side.  If you decide to switch beam splice orientation it would be the same distance/location except on opposite ends.

In viewing some of your videos I noticed that you were having problems cutting the post tops.  Not uncommon but the solution is simple.  Once you have the horizontal level line establishing the beam position on each post reach for your "speed square".  Set the square against the post below your line what ever the offset is on your circular saw.  Letting the shoe of your saw ride against the square edge make your first cut from one side to the other.  You will have to make a multiple cut given the thickness.  Move to the opposite corner and reposition the square again as before with the exception you will allow the blade to fit partially into the slot you cut the first time while the saw is off.  Once it is there then slide the square up until it rest against the shoe as before. Hold the square tight against the post and make the corresponding cut.  If your saw is set 90 deg from your saw shoe then you should have a clean cut.  Sawzall will never give you a clean cut in your application.

[pmichelsen]

Another option I've done when I had to cut a lot of posts, was to make a jig that slips around the post and clamps into place. The last one I made I even got a little fancy and had two layers, a thin 1/4" layer that aligned with my line and a wider 3/4" layer that aligns with the shoe on my circular saw. Once it's clamped just run the saw all the way around and you have a perfect cut.

[Redoverfarm]

Another option I've done when I had to cut a lot of posts, was to make a jig that slips around the post and clamps into place. The last one I made I even got a little fancy and had two layers, a thin 1/4" layer that aligned with my line and a wider 3/4" layer that aligns with the shoe on my circular saw. Once it's clamped just run the saw all the way around and you have a perfect cut.

Was helping a neighbor cut some 6X6 with the square.  Couldn't get a good match from one side to the other.  Come to find out his saw shoe was not set to the blade and kept wondering off.  Someone dropped his saw.    I have cut a lot of 6X6's and the square works good with only one problem.  The depth of cut.  Have to finish the 3/4 X 3/4" center with a hand saw.  I tried several years ago transferring the line around the post.  Too much room for error in my opinion and didn't seem to always meet up.  Yep there a trick to everything and a tool to use with them.  

[ajbremer]

Here is ReciProMate, it's what I was talking about in one of the previous videos:

[Redoverfarm]

Here is ReciProMate, it's what I was talking about in one of the previous videos:

The reciprocating saw was designed primarily as a demolition tool.  Some have adapted it to new construction but it does have limitations especially when you need accurate level or straight cuts.  I guess you found that out as demonstrated in your video with the gouging and unevenness. 

[ajbremer]

Yes John, the saws-all vibrates through a cut like crazy and the blade bends easily too.

[ajbremer]

Tuesday - April 19th, 2016

I have a question about the connection of the floor joist to the beams. I can use a hurricane tie like the
picture below but are there other methods, other types and shapes of ties, or simpler methods? How did
people do it before hurricane ties?

These are 0.71 cents each at Lowes:

[Redoverfarm]

AJ that looks to be a Simpson H1 Hurricane Tie.  Not sure exactly what might be code for you but this is normally a Beam /Joist tie.  They also make a single sided hurricane tie which is a H2.5 but you would have to install 2 per connection even if it is allowed.  What they used to do.  Toenail mostly but then again we don't use handsaws anymore either.  Sometimes we just have to bite the bullet and go the extra mile ($$$$$$) to insure that it will do the job.

[ajbremer]

Thank you John,

Yes, all I would have to spend to get all those hurricane ties is around 30 bucks...that's not bad.

Still raining here near Tulsa Oklahoma, supposed to be sunshine tomorrow. I'm ready to get after
beam number two! I'm really excited about getting those floor joists upright.

I plan to use Advantech sub flooring from Lowes:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_85795-1169-S-16596PC_0__?productId=50126556

It's $27.97 for a 4x8 sheet of 23/32'nds thick. I'll need around 10 sheets or less of it so that's
around $300 bucks. Advantech can get wet day after day, month after month and not get messed up. I
should know, I used it on my last 20x30 build and it was exposed through the winter.

[Don_P]

If you double the twist tie (H2.5's and similar) do it from opposite sides of the beam to spread out the damage, somewhere they warn about doubling them and splitting. The H1 gives about 4oo lbs uplift and the same laterally in the plane of the diamond, the twist is about 350 lbs uplift and little lateral.

One way to tie things is a 2x2 or 2x4... or 2x whatever, nailed or bolted vertically between beam and joist. a 2x4 nailed flat to the face of the beam and running up alongside of the joist, nailed through the joist into the edge of the 2x4. 5 nails @ 3.5x.131 into each member would be similar to the H1 in uplift and better in out of plane lateral than a thin steel plate... not everything new is better. I don't know that it is cheaper if you chop up 2x4's but I usually have that stuff laying around... and a gun is more fun than a hanger.

More to others reading. When a joist cantilevers over a beam it is supposed to be blocked between joists over the beam. If you think about how a joist would try to lay over at that support as the outboard end gets pushed down you'll understand the concern. I don't get excited if the joists or rafters or whatever, is cantilevering a short distance, is relatively shallow and the loads are not large. As the cantilevered member gets deeper and the overhang gets longer, that blocking becomes important, as does an engineer.