Don & Karen's Cargo Trailer to Camper Conversion

[MountainDon]

It's been a while       but I have made progress... 

The plumbing pressure tested w/o leaks and the propane leak tested okay after I got rid of a tee fitting that had a casting flaw and had a tiny but consistent leak. The water heater heats water.

I have completed all the insulation except for the rear doors. I have also installed all the interior wall paneling (5 mm plywood) and installed the shower pan (glued down on a raised bed of rigid sheet foam. Two shower walls up but the shower liner is not yet installed.  I've applied 2 coats of Minwax polycrylic clear coat on the interior wood wall and ceiling panels; one more to go. hen sometime soon I have to glue up the hull liner on parts of the ceiling and install trim.

The base for the truckfridge is installed and the rear and side panels along with the top have an additional 2 inches of polyisocyanurate insulation installed. The cut out for the compressor excepted. The floor platform the fridge sits on has 2 inches of polyiso. The door remains as it came. The counter framing in the left side of the nose is done. A countertop will be cut and installed soon. Shelf for the m-wave is yet to be done. Maybe tomorrow.

I cut a hole in the left rear door and the A/C is hanging there and works nice to cool the interior on the couple of recent days that we hit high 80's and a 92. It's not complete as I have a door reinforcement to complete. It's been consistently too windy to MIG weld outdoors and I have enough other stuff to do so don't feel like changing to flux core wire. I don't liker slag anyways.

No pictures on all that right now; later this evening.

[MountainDon]

I'm quicker than I thought I'd be!   



I finally connected and leak tested the propane system. That is a high pressure outlet for camp stove use outside.



The Truckfridge with its extra 2" wrap of polyiso insulation. The extra 2" for the bottom is not attached to the fridge but is under the plywood covered base just visible at lower right.



Truckfridge inserted into its place. The bed platform is painted. Still have to make doors for the underneath storage area; water tank, pump etc visible. Some of my parts mess visible too. The A/C with remote control temporarily installed in the door cut out



The view from outside the door. Shower pan and walls in place. Fridge in place. The sink in a mockup installation with faucet.





Closer and different angle view of the shower.

View from the rear. Walls for the shower, pipes visible are hot & cold supply to shower and the waste water tank vent pipe. Vent is still to be hooked up through the roof. Plywood walls finished in Minwax Polycrylic Clear Satin. (water based... love it as there is almost no odor at all. Lasts well too as I have used it on other projects for something like 10 years or more.



Interior nose view. Shelves to be added under counter. Our plan is to use storage boxes under there to hold "stuff".



Outside view of the A/C.  I'll explain more later as I finish the mounting, but in brief the two vertical things are steel reinforcements to help spread the weight of the A/C. They are spaced wide enough to permit a platform at the bottom for the Honda EU2000i to be added.

[MountainDon]

Interesting note:  I had a devil of a time with the tee fitting for the high pressure branch off. It turned out to be a casting fault. But at first I thought the connection simply was not tight enough; I had used a good amount of paste type pipe dope, one that in the past has resulted in zero leaks upon testing. So I was tightening the pipe nipple to tee and used a wrench that was too big. I twisted it off. I had forgotten myself and had left the propane cylinder valve open... I was actually watching the bubbles at the leak as I tightened. When the nipple twisted off there was a very short, Pffft. Then silence. The excess flow valve worked properly as there was just a low amount of propane released instead of the rapid flow that would happen with older equipment. Good to see technology work.

[MountainDon]

Interesting note:  I had a devil of a time with the tee fitting for the high pressure branch off. It turned out to be a casting fault. But at first I thought the connection simply was not tight enough; I had used a good amount of paste type pipe dope, one that in the past has resulted in zero leaks upon testing. So I was tightening the pipe nipple to tee and used a wrench that was too big. I twisted it off. I had forgotten myself and had left the propane cylinder valve open... I was actually watching the bubbles at the leak as I tightened. When the nipple twisted off there was a very short, Pffft. Then silence. The excess flow valve worked properly as there was just a low amount of propane released instead of the rapid flow that would happen with older equipment. Good to see technology work.

[rick91351]

Looking very good Don! 

Looks like your test run is getting a little closer.  Then road TRIP!!!   

[Adam Roby]

This is a great looking project MD.  When you first started this thread, I was thinking this might be a good alternative to building a small cabin, seeing as how it can be built at home with power etc and then parked in the woods... but the amount of technology you stuffed into this thing, it must have cost you a small fortune.  It is what I would call a "sleeper" camper, in that you would probably not know from the outside just how much is going on in the inside, and yet you seem to have all of the comforts of home in there.  Really nice work.

[MountainDon]

We have an update.



This is a view looking under the counter space to be.  The switch is for the RV water pump. Plumbing is Pex. The shut off above the switch is the valve for recirculating hot water back to the fresh water tank. The idea is conservation of water; It's not a long run from the water heater to the faucet, about 12 feet more or less, but rather than waste the cold slug that comes before the hot, we can send it back to the fresh water tank.

Next...



Counter top sans sink. The door is to the right. The box that shows 14.0 is a junction box. 14.0 is the battery voltage; the switch above shuts off the meter.  The doohickey at extreme upper left is the on-off remote for the SW inverter. The communications cable needs to be secured still.




There's a better view of the inverter remote on-off.  120 VAC outlets installed on wall. Sink installed and plumbed. It works although the shut off mentioned above has a leaking gland and will not stop leaking; part was in one of my junk boxes. next place for it may be the trash can.  The unfinished ledge shelf is temporarily resting on scraps.


Quiz...



What is this?   Hopefully the white metal thingy will be installed tomorrow and an explanatory photo posted. Or the day after....

[rick91351]

What is this?   Hopefully the white metal thingy will be installed tomorrow and an explanatory photo posted. Or the day after.... 

Sort of looks like a heavy duty shelf bracket.....

[Adam Roby]

There is a section of ceiling missing, perhaps this attaches to the ceiling allowing something to hang from it, or something to be pulled down (like storage of some kind when traveling.  If I am way off, give us a little hint.  ")

[MountainDon]

It IS the A/C rack.

Perhaps heavier than I needed but it was steel I had on hand, and the smallest I had on hand. Could have pulled enough 2 x 2 x 1/4 from the odds 'n' ends pile, but that would have been gross overkill. In future I will make a generator rack for the bottom, above the trailer plate, but have not taken time to do so now. That will be if I decide we need a place to have it able to run and be fastened to the trailer.

Photo of the A/C rack installed.



The funky piece of aluminum is an angle secured to both rack and the A/C. There are also a couple of screws from the side angles to the A/C "box".  Be careful when ya' drill holes; don't want to hear any pffftt's.   :lol:



Microwave installed on its shelf with a cam lock strap to help hold it in place.


I put the fridge in it's place today; need to make a bracket to secure it. Maybe tomorrow.



The eagle eyed observer will note a change in the pex line to the hot water bypass valve. It's an old recycled valve and has a very slight drip I can not remedy. The trial repair called for cutting the pex and I used a sharkbite from the plumbing odds 'n' ends box. Tonight I got a brand new valve and that ease of removing the sharkbite will come in handy tomorrow.

[MountainDon]

There is a section of ceiling missing, perhaps this attaches to the ceiling allowing something to hang from it, or something to be pulled down (like storage of some kind when traveling.  If I am way off, give us a little hint.  ")

The ceiling has different thicknesses of insulation. In the rear over the bed there is a total of 4 inches of polyiso. In the front over the area with standing room it is reduced to 2 inches. Over the counter, window area and the shower pan it is mostly 3 inches.  The ceiling areas that do not have the lauan plywood will be receiving "hull liner". It looks like indoor - outdoor carpeting but w/o the rubber backing; just the woven material. It is used in the marine industry on the inside of fiberglass hulls to reduce the condensation.

It gets glued on with contact cement.  I have some 3M Fastbond 30-NF (non flammable, low VOC, water based). It is the best non flammable contact adhesive that is available, also the most expensive. Goes on with a small roller. That will be applied to the ceiling. The hull liner will get a spray coat of 3M #77. They are compatible. Got it at Zoro Tools.

[rick91351]

So do I get the prize for shelf bracket......

[MountainDon]

So do I get the prize for shelf bracket......

You do!!!


Now where did I put it?   

[rick91351]

Just save it Don one of these days most likely our trails will cross.  First I got to get this house behind me.....

[MountainDon]

Alright, the shower is completed except for the shower curtain. 



CPVC pipe for a curtain rod and the PVC conduit does double duty as a towel drying holder and to carry a wire front to back that I belatedly wanted to add. Easier than fishing through the voids in the shower base.

That's a stick of foam fake wood trim I had laying around instead of using a proper FRP corner. It works; it is siliconed in place.




Small shelf added across wall behind sink.

[MountainDon]

The weather station down the road recorded a high of 92 F today. My local sensor showed a high of 97 F on the north side of the house. The trailer A/C was on most of the afternoon. I had the temperature set for 68 F inside and it had no problem maintaining that. It cycled on and off but I was busy working and have no idea of the duty cycle.

This A/C has an "eco" setting where the entire unit shuts off when the preset is reached. Normal cycle has the fan running all the time. I'm not real impressed as the temperature wanders hi to low more widely between operating cycles. It did seem to stay off for extended periods though. If you were plugged into the grid with an electric meter spinning maybe it would save money. But I'd only use it if I was trying to maintain some level of cool while away from it.

Tomorrow may reach 95 F.

[MountainDon]

Today's main project was installing the Travertine marble floor tiles. With all the angles in the nose that was a real job in cutting so as to not end up with wasted materials due to errors in measuring and what not. We do like the appearance a lot.


It was hot working as we have hit 96 so far. No A/C as I was working mostly in the nose, going in and out and at times I was outside while fitting the tiles to the nose floor.  I closed up the trailer and am running the A/C to get an idea of the cool down period.


There are details such as base trim to complete. Here's a shot of the tile...






We got that from Home Depot yesterday. It comes in 2 foot squares, 4 pieces to a package. I was able to do the floor with 2 packages.

Yes, it is not real marble; my head is not made of stone and neither is the floor.    It is foam matting with those laser cut squiggly interlocking edges. 

[MountainDon]

A while back I mentioned I had a latch to help take some of the weight off the door hinges of the rear door the A/C is mounted in.  Here are a couple shots.

I added an handle extension to this one. When the hook is slipped over the steel door frame top and the handle pulled down the latch goes over center and stays there. The rod is adjustable for throw. This one is stainless steel. I have it set to almost imperceptibly lift the door, to take weight. It might make a difference when jiggling down the road.






These are from a company called Southco. They make lots of different latches in many sizes. I've used a variety of them over the past 12 - 15 years. They have a website. I have not checked recently but for many years they have had a sample program. IF you have a company name and if you have a shipping payment account with someone like UPS, FedEx, etc, you can order samples. The samples are free, but you must have a shipping account they can charge to. They used to ship for free but that ceased about 2008.

[archimedes]

Interesting project,  I've been enjoying watching your progress.

I've got a couple of questions though. 

1)Do you have the ability to attach the trailer water supply to city pressurized water?  And if so how do you isolate the water tank and pump from the city water under pressure.

2)And the air vent line to the water tank,  where does the air vent to - outside? to some sort of valve? or just to the air space in the camper.

thanks.

[MountainDon]

1. No, I skipped that as we don't use campgrounds with hookups as a rule. If we do we can refill the on board tank and continue to use the pump.

2. The water tank vent is built into the water filler. It is screened and is a part of the fitting on the exterior. It is a recessed design so nothing protrudes more than 3/16".  It will spit back at you when the tank is full.

[MountainDon]

Recent progress....

Queen size mattress in place...  The ceiling has been finished in hull liner material with wood accent strips across. It is glued in place with 3M Fastbond 30 NF rollered onto the ceiling and 3M 77 sprayed on the fabric backside. The 30 NF is very nice, almost no odor, not flammable and friendlier to brain cells than the older contact cement. I did not use the 30 NF on the cloth as it was difficult to spread w/o soaking the cloth.



28" LED TV on a swing arm wall mount...



We have a cable/antenna feed thru the wall and an HDMI connection for the laptop.

Sown with the swing arm out...



TV can be swiveled to face the rear doors as well.

Outdoor work table for camp stove, etc. It uses a bracket I got from Vintage Trailer Supply. Plus I added to spring lock shelf brackets to provide extra support. The whole thing lifts off easily to be stored in the pickup box.






Next may be a dangerous move. The CT is almost finished. We are taking off for CO ....

[astidham]

there is nothing that says home like a huge flat screen television.
looking good Don.

[Adam Roby]

Oh no... not a TV.  That is camping sacrilege! I will do everything in my power to keep my child away from TV while camping.  So far, every camper we have seen her first question is always, "Where's the TV?".  I am off to a bad start.

[MountainDon]

Yep. TV. It got used a little on the CO trip. Once for a DVD in the evening and once for viewing photos taken with the Nikon SLR. Oh and also for viewing digital Topo maps with GPS tracks from hiking.  Can be a useful tool. 

~~~~~~

"Home again, home again, jiggity jig"
... or...
...a 1329 Mile Shakeout Trip...


The last two weeks were spent in CO, working our way north from the Salida area to the final 5 days in Rocky Mountain NP. We had a great time; FS or NPS camp sites all the way. Hiked a number of trails mostly all 10,000 feet and higher. The shower was wonderful to have. The trailer tracked excellently in the terrific head, front quartering and side winds that we encountered.

There are a couple/three glitches that I need to sort out, but nothing that seems too serious. I'll know better when I troubleshoot / evaluate the issues.

#1 was the brakes lost communication between the brake controller and the trailer. I just used lower gears more, carefully watched down grade speeds and all was fine. The trailer weighs less than the break point where brakes are required.

#2 was the auto transfer switch (generator/shore power or onboard inverter) crapped out. We used extension cords and did some back and forth switching and made out okay.

#3 was a very small propane leak developed at one of the fittings in the high pressure section. Solution was temporary; turn off the main cylinder valve between uses. I decided that was better than trying to tighten the 1/4" brass pipe more and risk twisting it off... I've done that before. 

[hpinson]

What does a USFS campsite cost now in Colorado?  Last time I was up there, a lot had of them had been privatized, and cost was $25 a night, which seemed pretty steep.