33 inch tires...  My memory wants to say it's got a torqueflite       I hope so.

Your axle gears may be 3.31  3.54  maybe 3.73

None of them are really great with 33 inch tires although if it's an automatic that helps.

I had a CJ with 33's (stock 3.54 gears) and the only thing that saved the low speed 4x4 performance was the granny low gear in the 4 speed manual.

Something to think about. 4.11 to 4.88's would be better.


FWIW, my XJ Cherokee ran the stock 3.54 gears for a short time with the 32" tires. It drove okay because of the automatic, but the fuel milegae sucked bad. Mileage improved when I went to 4.56 gears.


Also note that they get harder to stop as the tire sizes go up. Not bad with power brakes usually, but some of the early boosters are a bit iffy with big rubber. A very nice fix is the "hydra-boost" (i think it was called). Made by GM it used hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump to boost the brakes. IIRC it was used on some commercial vans, maybe some Cadillacs.  There's a guy in Farmington, NM who sells the made up kit for Jeep use.

Yup - got the torque flight.

Maybe 32" tires would be better for it.  I was just talking to my son a bit and he mentioned 33's I think. 

It does have power brakes that were OH'd before I got it. 

I'm having a bit of a stalling problem in reverse and hesitation getting up to speed - haven't figured out if it is trans or carb-timing etc related.  The trans was overhauled and I think the torque converter may be a bit more aggressive causing some of it.  Don't know.  Harry said the TF was a bit noted for being a bit grabby in reverse especially.

On road it does quite well - just the reverse is worst.  Lately it has occasionally backed up well.  Wondering if it has anything to do with breaking in the trans clutches as it has few miles on either the engine or trans since OH at this time.

FWIW there's a tire/gear chart at   http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-tires/tire-gear-ratio-chart.htm   The chart has  tire dia, gears and RPM's for comparison.

It's always hard to decide what is best when looking at bigger tires and not getting into the $$ of swapping diff gears. Helps to know what's in there now. With luck there may be tags/labels that are still readable. Or jack it and count turns wheel/driveshaft.

When it comes to AT all I know is that if it stops working I'm in trouble. I change oil and filter, have an external cooler and hope for the best. 

Thanks, Don.

I'll do a bit more checking.  Right now my speedometer is a bit slow but the odometer seems about right.  A bit bigger tires could remedy part of that.

  kaleco auto makes a affordable AWD conversion for us DIY folks.

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=38

Quote from: diyfrank on September 25, 2010, 09:37:48 AM
 kaleco auto makes a affordable AWD conversion for us DIY folks.

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=38

" Please refrain from making left or right turns once this kit is installed. To enjoy the added handling benefits of AWD with this kit, is important that the steering wheel remains perfectly centered!"   

WTH!

it's all tongue in cheek.    good one

I found a comment somewhere that the Chief was made wider to accommodate 31" tires easily - May go with that and build the longer shackles you posted elsewhere to get her up a bit, Don.

Found a neat  cheap distributor upgrade also - maybe getting it soon after checking out what I already have. 

http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=43448

I note it says for 83 up SJ - I assume it will still work in the 81

They have made lots of improvements since the early days smog experimentation.

As for the hydraulic brake boost, this was employed by GM in the 1984 K30 chevy 1 ton pickups. They made a whole bunch special for the military and are know as M1008 CUCV's which stands for Civilian
Utility Cargo Vehicles. They use the 6.2 diesel engines, beefed up springs to make it a 5/4 ton truck, Dana 60 front end with manual lockers, and a 24 volt starting system to comply with NATO. Parts are generally available thru NAPA and others. The few Military parts are available from surplus dealers like Saturn Surplus.
They are geared low, so they are slow. I have 35 inch tires on mine so
you can go 55 -60. It will go faster in a pinch but it is not a good idea for the long run. They are real work horses. If you are lucky, you can get one thru Government Liquidation auctions, but be very careful. You need to inspect before biding on them, and when you do record the vin. They have a habit giving the wrong trucks out.
More info on this at SteelSoldiers forum. But you can get some good deals if you are careful.
The M1008 is the pickup, but they also have the M1009 which is a Blazer. Not quite as tough but mostly the same. Different front end.
Bruce

HEI distributors!!!!!!    All you need is a used one from an inline GM six (250? 292??)  and a new gear on the bottom of it to fit the cam on the Jeep six. I did that on my old modified CJ. Someone also makes a spring kit for adjusting the advance curve.   I'll try to reach back into the unused recesses of my brain.....  There is (or was) a guy in Califonia that sold the used dist with the new gear installed. .... specializes in used 4x4 equipment, small town, maybe starting with letter A   ?    

The gear is from an '83 and later AMC V8, engine part number 3208615. It fits right on the GM dist shaft.   You also need a different wire set. My head is telling me it might be a set for a Ford 300 six. Not sure tho'

Thanks, Don.  I got past another year of smog - license is on its way so I don't think it will ever be an issue for me.  Bring on the mods and we will get this thing running better.  Actually it is getting to be quite drivable now and after the trip to LA I'm not too worried about it.


After the trans overhaul the mechanic had me put a filter on the cooler and I was supposed to take it off.  Apparently it is in parallel with the torque converter so was adding pressure to the system making the stall problem in reverse worse.  Took the filter off and it eased up a bit.  Still a bit luggy in reverse and low so maybe some adjustments and the other tune up items will help.  Still pretty easy to stall in reverse.

Now that you mention it, Bruce, I have seen a few of them around but thought that some kid just camoed his pickup. [ouch]

The distributor change was the easiest, fastest mod I ever made to the CJ and it was probably very cost efficient. We had to recurve it mainly because of the other things, cam, EFI, etc etc.

Seems this would be hard to beat for $123. including spark plug wires and is a one wire hookup, brand new and ready to go.

http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=43448

Yeah, for brand new it's a good looking deal.  I had a friend who worked at a local salvage yard find me a very nice almost new one for cheap. I got the gear from the guy in CA who I can't recall  and the wires from Checker. The recurve kit was from Summit Racing. That just clicked. There may be hope for me yet!  Those HEI are all one wire, BTW. Maybe two if you count the tach hookup?

Cool - I think I will call the tech line to make sure there are no other reasons I would not want it but I am pretty sure it will work.  The Weber worked great.

I think I found more of the problem with the trans - I'm going over the 82 manual I found on line at http://oljeep.com/edge_parts_man.html

I downloaded the entire 82 manual and can print the pages - that helps and seems to be the same as the 81.  I am sure my throttle control rod to the trans is not right.  Think I have the procedure figured out from the semi vague drawings and instructions plus I have old memories of doing similar on the old Dodge 727's when I was a mechanic there.

So many sections to the manual in PDF, I used Pagenest to DL the entire manual  (Used to be Webstripper I think)

Called them - the tech did not recommend that one due to overseas quality issues even though they sell it.

He recommended this one instead but the cost is of course more.  Probably worth it though out of stock til the 5th.

http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?jeep-sid=11&plID=614&partID=6348

It is already curved for the jeep.

Ahhh Jeeps   Gotta love them.


Speaking of dizzy mods, I was told by my mech (funny that I would call anyone 'my mechanic' since technically I am one but sometimes it's just nicer to let someone else do the hard work...but I digress) that the XJ dizzy's while nearly impossible to put in wrong, also nearly impossible to adjust.  They are designed with tabs which prevent the dizzy from rotating, however as the XJ's age and things loosen up (like timing chains) they may run out thereby causing issues.

The fix, I'm told, is to file off the tabs and make some kind of cap with a window in it (no thanks)...in order to index timing correctly.  Anyway, after the top end was rebuilt on the Road Warrior he also did this and told me that if not done it's a common cause of top end problems with XJ's (at least those with this dizzy style anyway I guess) because the computer can't actually adjust the timing correctly because it's starting point is off.

Either way, the Road Warrior managed 12.5mpg pulling a trailer (loaded and unloaded) with roof rack and tire on the roof!   Used to get 7-10mpg doing that...also ran 70 on the interstate like no bodies business!  Had to use Cruise to stop myself from going faster!

As for lift:  I'm sometimes tempted to go with 4.5" versus the 3" OME lift I have now (and extra 1/2" or so from added leafs) but then I smack myself silly and smarten up

Sure, I'd LOVE 4.5" or even 6" of lift....but I have absolutely no need for it.  I'm one of those tempted to do it because I love the way it looks but always stopping because I realize I'd be wasting money that would be better spent elsewhere.

As for the ZJ's I have a friend who MOAB's his (used to be into eXtreme Xj's) and while he doesn't take the daily driver over the trails (often) he's very content with a 2" lift -- not sure tires though.  It looks great and gets him around nicely.

Last note, re lifting:  Seems most spring lifts are for articulation and not towing.  If you tow with your lifted rig and didn't go with the much stiffer 4.5" Rubicon (XJ's) or similar lift (like say a 3"OME) you might find yourself adding a leaf to the rear to take the tongue weight on the trailer.  (thoughts Don)?

What I did was cut the eyes off a main spring (98 xj) and bolt it right into the OME spring pack.  Has worked very well and didn't notice any real difference.

OH wait, one more thing (aint there always)...when lifting there is usually a range (XJ's 0-3" roughly) that you can do without tilting diffs, dropping transfer cases, changing steering or control arms etc etc)...be good to know that on your own rig.

Cheers
Erik

Thanks Erik.

I think I will do a moderate lift as you mentioned.  Roads here are pretty rough and I already have a rash on my exhaust pipe from bottoming out.  Probably a bit of spring sag over 30 years.  I also have been thinking about the added leafs.

I found info on the why's to not get the cheap distributor and the info given to me by the tech above was right on according to this.

http://www.cj-8.com/forum/showthread.php?p=198276

it's been noted that not all need a 4 X 4.  That's true... oh, I'd like one...but don't need one so bad that I am willing to put up with all the extra costs associated with 4 X 4 heavy duty.

It was also said that "I would never build a house without a pickup".   I don't agree with that.  I would never build a house without a van and a trailer!  ALL the mid and back seats in my van go into the floor and I can put 4 X 8 sheets in there....and 10 ft lumber.... and still close the door.   They call them mini-vans, but many aren't anywhere near mini anymore.  Mine's a 2006 Dodge SXT with Stow&Go seating.

"You got it Erin.  Get stuck in 2 wd - maybe out in 4 wd"

arround here

that will guarentee you'll be digging for quite a while.

even on the trail to the right I'd still use 4x4 as there are surprise softspots........you can usually find the car mats palm leaves etc of self rescues performed in the first section of those who turned the corner in 2wd




Mind you miss a turn on the hard side and end up in the soft and you soon be in up to your axles even in locked rear 4x4

sand ladders and a tow out required using a kinetic strap............a standard one will just mean you have two stuck trucks




Where's the Nissan button !

Nice sandbox UK!  

I'm a believer that if you have 4wd then you should use it if the going may be tough enough to require it. Waiting to engage 4wd or low range, if the going is slow enough, can make you wish you had already done so. Several of the trail incidents I have been involved in rescuing came about, at least in part, because the driver did not engage low range or 4 wd before it was needed.

Your friend in sand is low tire pressure. On the XJ I run the 32 x 11.5 x 15's down to about 12-13 lbs. My CJ with 33's ran down to 9 lbs. Sometimes if you get stuck in sand with 25 lbs or higher pressure you can drive out by lowering pressure and digging "ramps" in the sand. I've done that.

Lift?  How much? Depends.    Depends on the job at hand.  What size tires.

On an XJ I believe that anything over 4.5 inches borders on being stupid. Somewhere I have photos of a 6 inch lifted XJ on its roof. In a parking lot!  

My XJ has a 4.5 inch lift from Rubicon Express with the exception of the rear springs. The rear leafs are from National Spring. Have the vehicle weighed in trail trim; all the stuff you usually carry. Get front and rear axle weights as well as total weight. They build the springs to suit. 32 inch tires work well with that amount of lift.

I do not like add a leafs, but will admit they can add height and capacity for a smaller cash outlay. They also make the ride stiffer, IMO. How's yours?  I've ridden in a friend's XJ and it seems to have no springs at all in the rear. Not all brands are created equal, either.

When I tow the trailer, I have 75 to 150 lbs on the hitch (empty to full). There is little noticeable sag to the rear of the Jeep with the trailer load distributed correctly. A lifted vehicle presents a challenge for towing a lot of trailers. Many trailers are too low for a lifted vehicle. I have a special dropped receiver hitch. Ideally a lifted trailer may be the best idea.

Personally I do not like dropped tranfer cases.    Lifting the Jeep suspension for increased clearance and dropping the transfer case has always seemed counter productive to me. But sometimes unavoidable. Someplace I have photos of my CJ sitting on a rock under the t-case skid plate. Most embarrassing! That won a special award for me from my 4wd club.    It would teeter back and forth, never getting enough of a tire grip on the ground to drive itself off.

However, it is true that something must be done do get the driveshaft angles into the realm of being correct. A vehicle like the XJ can be lifted to 3 inches in most cases before special measures be taken. There is danger of the stock slip yoke slipping out of the rear of the t-case with more lift. I've been witness to the mess it makes when the oil in the case follows the slip yoke onto the ground. (not me, someone else)

My special measures included a (Novak?) slip yoke replacement for the transfer case. I got this from Tom Wood's Custom Driveshafts along with a custom driveshaft with a front CV joint. This allows the t-case to remain in it's factory position. The rear axle requires the pinion to be tilted upwards. The amount varies with the amount of lift. Tom Woods included a simple plastic gauge to measure the angle required. Shims slip in between the axle spring pad and the spring. Do NOT get aluminum shims. Eventually they break.

I also have a custom t-case skid plate and a transmission, engine oil pan skid plate. I started with items from Skid Row and modified the t-case plate so it sits up tighter, but not too tight.

Viewed from the right side, the skid plates are at the same height at the lowest part of the exhaust...



Viewed from the left side, pretty much at "eye level" with the skid plates...



Viewed from left, from ground level looking up...



The front skid plate laps over the leading edge of the t-case skid plate. The rocker skid mounts are also visible. 3/8 steel paltes were welded to the "frame" The mount holes are drilled and tapped and the rocker skids bolt onto the welded plates. Nothing is lower than the 3/16 plate that is bolted to the stock crossmember.

I'm not a fan of add-a-leafs either which is why I added a leaf....wait a minute.....

Actually, I actually added a leaf  meaning that my spring pack has 6 leafs rather then the usual 5 that Old Man Emu (OME) sends out.  But I tow things.

I'd rather do what Don did/suggested and it was my first choice but necessity and $$$ forced me to seek out the local XJ guru's   Since then I've not felt they were wrong!  Indeed, I'm VERY happy.  But I can pull a trailer with a 300+ tongue weight and the sag in the rear despite the added spring leaf drops the tail of the XJ down down down to the 31's.  Luckily, though, it's 'usually'  not too low!!!

The reason I mentioned the Rubicon (and other) 4.5" lifts is actually because they have a heavier spring rate to provide greater stability at that ride height while the OME 3" springs are actually quite soft (and comfy, not to mention seriously articulating).  So I'd imagine a 4.5" spring pack would handle the tongue weight better then my 3.5" one.

Did you (Don) remove the rear anti-sway bar?  Usually guys do but for towing it's actually better (when towing more weight like I do) to keep it on so mine's in place.

Glenn -- I'll get a pic of a buddies 2" lifted ZJ for ya   Quite amazing really because it looked like a 4" lift!!!

Side note:  I don't have a truck so for those who won't build without one (ok I'd LIKE one mind you and lament not having one) it isn't too bad as long as you can tow.

I picked up just a tick over 1000lbs of lumber and such from Home Depot on Wednesday last week and stuck it on my 1800lbs trailer and headed off to the hills.  We were pushing the limits (max is 1200lbs) but the XJ hauled it up into the mountains without so much as complaining.

However, it would be nice to not have to tow EVERY time I needed lumber.