our S.E. TX story and a half

[CjAl]

My new old stove. It had 2 broken legs no door pins and 50lbs of rust




After a lot of elbow grease and some paint. Two new legs a handle to open the top plate new door pins and a new log grate. All in under $100.

 

Once again its good to yave friends. This fame from the guy who helped with my roof. Guess I paid him enough. N3ar as I can tell its pre 1940s. Im not sure if I want to use it in my house though. Kinda scarred. Lol.

This is a king stoves and ranch model 626. After researching i5 the company was sold a few times. The last co that bought it was us stoves which still holds thr patent on this stove and still produces it with amazingly few changes. Thankfully b3cause of that I was able to buy brand new parts and they fit right on it. The legs are about 1/4" shorter so I can either stick an extra piece of tile under them or order two more to replafe the other origionals. theyre only $11 ea

[Redoverfarm]

Nice gift.  You should be able to lay a decent looking floor with it.  Maybe have to mix & match to get a quanity to fit in your rooms but still cool.

Yep the old "box stove".  Good for instant heat but lousy on keeping a fire very long.  Better sleep close to it and have your wood pile about that close as well.  Probably be good for the shop just to take the chill off and burn up some scrap lumber if you are into wood working.

[CjAl]

Pretty much what I was thinking. If I dont yave another stovr by next winter I will put the chimney in where it needs to go and make this one attach to it untill I find something better. Problem is this one has to basicly be out in the middle of the floor to be far enough away from everything.


In the pic with the medalion yiu can see some 12x24 wood grain tile. I have enough of that to do the whole bathroom floor minus wyere the shower is going. 160sq ft. I have 70ft of that brownish ceramic and another 30 ft of a lighter tan shade. I have 50 feet of the slate which I was going to use in the shower but now 8 am thinking I will use that around the entry door and wood stove hearth. I have 33ft of those 8" tavertine tiles. Then I have misc mouldings 5 sq foot of tubled marble with a basket weave pattern oj mesh. A few more feet of 2" tiles on mesh and a little bit of glass but not much and im not fond of it.

There is also WAY more if I need it. I need to figure out were to put that medalian

[CjAl]

I also found a 6 foot clawfoot tub I am going to restore. I am a little aprehensive about putting a big old clawfoot tub on tile though. My last tile job didnt go so well. I had prob half the tile pop on me.

Btw. I put 3/4" t&g plywood over my sort of soft subfloor in the bathroom. Screwed it directly to the floor joists and glued it. I am going to also put Hardie tile backer over that. Anyone know if I should glue that down with thinset or just screw it down?

[MountainDon]

According to the Hardie folks thinset should be used...

FAQ Q&A:  "Why do I have to use thinset between HardieBacker board and the subfloor?
Dry set (ANSI 118.1) or acrylic modified thinset (ANSI 118.4) is specified between the HardieBacker board and the subfloor to eliminate any deviations between our product and the subfloor. This decreases the probability of popping or cracking tiles due to deflection and air pockets."

http://www.jameshardie.com/developer/faq-hardiebacker.shtml   Lots of info there.

Special screws and the reason is listed in the FAQ


All that said I know of one floor where the Hardie was screwed down w/o thinset and tile later installed with thinset on top. No apparent problems after several years. I'm not suggesting that, just saying...

[CjAl]

Thanks MountainDon

[mwhutch]

Have you looked into code approved wall heat shields? Those combined with a stove heat shield you can reduce clearance on some stoves to 6 inches from combustibles. I know we are looking at a Jotul F3 or F400 for our house and the manual says 6" with double walled pipe, rear heat shield, and wall heat shield. 

[CjAl]

That stove is up to 100 yr old. There is no specs for it so you go to the default 36". Even with hestvshields its out a ways but I was sort of joking about baing in the middle of the room.

I am up on my stove regs tho. So I will figure it out. Our winter is close to iver already tho we dont have much need for heat here. So its not really a priority. Plumbing and water is

[CjAl]

Not much more need for heat.... did I really say that? Oh boy was I wrong. Its been down to 20 and below and 8ts snowed twice in the last week and mabey more in a few days. Now remember I live in deep south east tx... it doesn5 snow here and it sure doesnt get down to 16 degrees. I am ready for spring. Living in this house with no insulation or heat except space heaters I can almost hewr the electric meter spinning. One night I had to unhook the dryer hose and run it for extra heat.




Well I put 7/16 osb down on the floor in the living room. Mostly to level it out since the osb that got soft was slightly swelled up at the seams. I have a few hundred sq feet of rough sawn 1" pine I will put over it as soon as I can find a good deal on a planer.

In the bathrrom I put 3/4 t&g plywood over the osb and screwed to the joists with 3.5" screws. Tonight I started putting 1/2 hardie board over that. Thin set and screwed. Now that I have over 2" of floor I guess I can start to tile. Lol. I bought a shower base instead of doing my own. Its not custom but it is pretty nice. I will still tile the walls and prob get a framless glass enclosure. Not cheap but I like them.

I decided to use pex and boy am I glad I did. I love this stuff. Plumbed my kitchen in 5 minutes including drilling holes. About the same for washer and toilet. I bought a manifold so all I need to to decide on a shower vakve and diverter I like and get a water heater and tie it all together. Oh ya, still need to rent a trencher to get water lines to the house.


Does anyone have an opinion on if pvc is ok for water lines from the box to the house or should I go with 1" pex? Its abiut $88 per 100 foot here and I need a few hundred feet once I add water faucets out in the yard into the plan.

[MountainDon]

Our home is PVC from the street to meter and then from meter to house. Then PEX since we replumbed the house.   That PVC is 29 year old work. I have no idea if current code is the same or if that varies from place to place.

[CjAl]

We dont have any code to worry about. I planned to use pvc.

I guess I probably need a check valve and a psi regulator right off the box. Or can I run full psi to my outside faucets and drop the psi going into the house?

Do you know what psi the house runs at? Im thinking 30 but cant be sure

[MountainDon]

We run the water company pressure to one yard hydrant, After that a pressure reducer drops the house supply to 30 psi. There are regulators with other pressures and some are adjustable. 30 psi works for us.

I don't remember seeing a check valve on the supply side.    Anything on our side of the meter has to have a vacuum breaker if there is any chance of a back flow contaminating the water. The hose bibs all have them as does the irrigation system.

[CjAl]

Does anyone know if there is a code that says I cant run my waste system vents up and exit under the eaves? Doesvit say they have to be above the roof or so many feet from a window?

[Redoverfarm]

Does anyone know if there is a code that says I cant run my waste system vents up and exit under the eaves? Doesvit say they have to be above the roof or so many feet from a window?

I think this is what you were looking for.

VENT TERMINALS

904.1 Roof extension. All open vent pipes that extend through a roof shall be terminated at least 12 inches (304.8mm) above the roof, except that where a roof is to be used for any purpose other than weather protection, the vent extensions shall be run at least 7 feet (2134 mm) above the roof.

904.2 Frost closure. Every vent extension through a roof or wall shall be a minimum of 3 inches (76 mm) in diameter. Any increase in the size of the vent shall be made inside the structure a minimum of 1 foot (305 mm) below the roof or inside the wall.

904.3 Flashings. The juncture of each vent pipe with the roof line shall be made water-tight by an approved flashing.

904.4 Prohibited use. Vent terminals shall not be used as a flag pole or to support flag poles, television aerials or similar items, except when the piping has been anchored in an approved manner.

904.5 Location of vent terminal. An open vent terminal from a drainage system shall not be located directly beneath any door, openable window, or other air intake opening of the building or of an adjacent building, and any such vent terminal shall not be within 10 feet (3048 mm) horizontally of such an opening unless it is at least 2 feet (610 mm) above the top of such opening.

904.6 Extension through the wall. Vent terminals extending through the wall shall terminate a minimum of 10 feet (3048 mm) from the lot line and 10 feet (3048 mm) above average ground level. Vent terminals shall not terminate under the overhang of a structure with soffit vents. Side wall vent terminals shall be protected to prevent birds or rodents from entering or blocking the vent opening.

904.7 Extension outside a structure. In climates where the 97.5 -percent value for outside design temperature is less than 0ºF (-18ºC), vent pipes installed on the exterior of the structure shall be protected against freezing by insulation, heat or both.

[MountainDon]

IRC 2012...      I already had it copied, John... I couldn't stand to waste it..   



SECTION P3103 VENT TERMINALS

P3103.1 Roof extension.
Open vent pipes that extend through a roof shall be terminated not less than 6 inches (152 mm) above the roof or 6 inches (152 mm) above the anticipated snow accumulation, whichever is greater, except that where a roof is to be used for any purpose other than weather protection, the vent extension shall be run not less than 7 feet (2134 mm) above the roof.

P3103.2 Frost closure.
Where the 97.5-percent value for outside design temperature is 0°F (-18°C) or less, every vent extension through a roof or wall shall be not less than 3 inches (76 mm) in diameter. Any increase in the size of the vent shall be made inside the structure not less than 1 foot (305 mm) below the roof or inside the wall.

P3103.3 Flashings and sealing.
The juncture of each vent pipe with the roof line shall be made water tight by an approved flashing. Vent extensions in walls and soffits shall be made weather tight by caulking.

P3103.4 Prohibited use.
A vent terminal shall not be used for any purpose other than a vent terminal.

P3103.5 Location of vent terminal.
An open vent terminal from a drainage system shall not be located less than 4 feet (1219 mm) directly beneath any door, openable window, or other air intake opening of the building or of an adjacent building, nor shall any such vent terminal be within 10 feet (3048 mm) horizontally of such an opening unless it is not less than 3 feet (914 mm) above the top of such opening.

P3103.6 Extension through the wall.
Vent terminals extending through the wall shall terminate not less than 10 feet (3048 mm) from the lot line and 10 feet (3048 mm) above the highest adjacent grade within 10 feet (3048 mm) horizontally of the vent terminal. Vent terminals shall not terminate under the overhang of a structure with soffit vents. Side wall vent terminals shall be protected to prevent birds or rodents from entering or blocking the vent opening.

[CjAl]

The way I read that is since I do not have vented soffets I can run the main stackniut the end wall just under the eave.

Unless I am missing something

[CjAl]

Although the firstbone says 2 feet above an openable window and the second posting says two feet

[MountainDon]

I think you are okay if there are no soffit vents in that eve and if you meet the windows / ground clearances. What I posted is the 2012 IRC. Code does change from version to version.

[CjAl]

I can meet the 2'  but not sure about the 3' unledd you only count to the part of the window that opend. Being single hung only thr bottom half opens

[MountainDon]

Unless there was an inspector I would not worry about the 2 foot , 3 foot difference. Two foot was code at one time and probably still is code someplace. Not all jurisdictions change to new codes as soon as a new version is out. Not all jurisdictions adopt all the new changes either. IMO, this is a small enough detail that if you can meet 2 feet, it would be good.

[CjAl]

As of now there is no code enforcement. The community decided to become a city but its as disfunctionwl as it gets and they have all sorts of rules but no enforcement. As it was they were only concerned the electric and plumbing was done by a licensedprofessional. I took my eelectricianin to copy his license and I found out they no longer even have an inspector and can not 8nspect or inforce anything. So I am Iin a rush to get my plumbing and septic done. I still need a state permit for the septic but bypassing the cith saves me a $300 city permit

[CjAl]

Well now that its 70 degrees again I am doing insulation. Good timing I know. However down here its prob only weeks away from needing ac when it was 20 few weeks ago.


I scored a good deal on some cedar last week.


So I started making kitchen cabinets. Got one done and the frames for all the rest of the lowers. I will make more boxes tomorrow. Making those out of rough cut pine and the faces are the cedar. My camera flash washes out the red though.




I also set my shower base. I overspent last week with the cedar deal I ran into and valantines day. So I have to wait to buy some spray foam and tile backer board. I have the shower valve, I could start plumbing it in but im afraid I may need to return it to pay for food for the rest of the week. Hate it when I mess up the budget

[CjAl]

I got my cabinetes finished. Well not c0mplete but the finish is on. I need to make doors and add drawer slides.








I am off thursdays and fridays now. I will do my upper cabinet this week and tey to get doors done.

I also started paneling the bumpout in the bedroom. Rought cut pine behind the headboard and cedar on the sides.will look nice when its finished and sanded with some poly on it. The rough pine is ship lapped and stained with a light walnut

[CjAl]

This is going to be one big upper cabinet. 5 1/2 foot tall and 50" wide. Going to be real fun to hang.

[dablack]

Love me some pocket screws.  Looks good.  I really like the cedar. 

Austin