skirting options - is this a bad idea?

[muldoon]

Quite a few people here are pursuing the post and beam and pier and beam style foundations.  One of the tasks associated with it being skirting under the house.  I have been looking at the products for mobile homes, which by and large I do not like at all.  I have looked at vinyl and corregated metal options, again nothing too great there.  The masonry panel options I like, but the costs are insane ..  nearly 10 dollars per foot of skirting.  Then I considered composite decking in a vertical fashion, as described here.  I like this approach, but the cost of the material is certainly a factor again.  Next I stumbled across someone using fence pickets as skirting. 

I realize they did not provide any ventilation, nor did they provide an entry access panel, both of which I would.  I also realize that the lifespan of the material is not forever.  However, the material being cheap enough that replacing them on an as needed basis (not unlike what we do with actual fence slats that they are) seems reasonable. It seems if I kept the board ends a few inches from the ground to prevent water wicking and hit it with some water sealant every year or so they should hold up reasonably well.

My question for the forum is to inquire if I am missing anything obvious for downsides?  Is there any reason why this would be a huge no-no in anyone elses opinion? 

[Jackson Landers]

Those fence boards look good.  I think that type of skirting could easily last decades, especially if you have generous roof overhangs and proper drainage to keep water away from the skirting in the first place.   

In fact, I think you've got me just about sold on doing exactly that with the little house I'm working on right now.

If you plan on painting it rather than going with stain, then I'd suggest back-priming everything after making all your cuts, but still prior to installation.

[Redoverfarm]

muldoon I am faced with a similar problem with the front porch area of the cabin.  My solution is to make a 2X4 frame leaving it 1-2" off the ground.  Since my piers are masonry then I will attach the framing with tapcons on the sides and the floor joist on the top portion.  Then install Board & Batten on the frame.  Mine will set 12-14" back under the porch at the backside of my 16"X16" piers(stone covered).  Simple enough without too much cost.  The end results will be stained to match the rest of the woodwork. 



Forgot to mention that an access door can be placed anywhere you would like and disguised in B&B pattern with a couple of hinges and hasp.

[MountainDon]

I too am mulling the options around in my head. One thing I like about using metal roofing (same color as the roof will be) is that it won't easily catch fire. Depending on your locale this might be a factor in deciding choice.   

[desdawg]

When I skirt mobile homes I pour a small 4" thick footing and frame a wall from footing to underside using pt lumber. Termites are ferocious in these parts. Then I try to sheet it with a material that is compatable with the house siding. The last couple I have done had RBB sheet siding. You can purchase the material that is used for pressure treating at HD in gallon cans to touch up your cuts and edges. It can be painted over to color match the siding color once applied.

[billr]

Using a treated wood frame and hardy board siding is also an option.

The hardy board is a 7/16 cement based board which can be painted any color you wish and should be good against termites and rot.

Peace

BillR

[Okie_Bob]

Here is another idea that is definately cheaper. I buy the cedar lattice 4' X 8' panels for $11 ea at home depot. You can also buy pvc panels in differenct colors but, they are $22 each! I didn't have my post exactly spaced for an 8' panel so I used pressure treated  2x4's to frame in the areas for the panels. I am now working on the flower beds in front of the latice. You can also see some of the white pvc panels on the deck level where I placed them for a little privacy.
Okie Bob

[Okie_Bob]

Woops, forgot the blog address for the pics... http://www.bobdanaslakehouse.blogspot.com/
Sorry about that.
Okie Bob

[MountainDon]

One thing to remember if using James Hardie cement board products is that it is not supposed to touch the ground. Hardie states a 6 inch minimum.

Also the HardiePanel (4x8) is 5/16 inch thick.

Depending on the size required for the skirt one cold also consider the Hardi cement board soffit material. 1/4" thick and available 12" or 16" wide by 12 ft or 24" wide x 8 ft long. Also in 4x8 sheets. Their soffit material is also available vented, drilled with small holes. Probably a special order item in most locales.

[Okie_Bob]

Don, I used the 2X8 Hardi soffett panels and had to special order from Home Depot.
Can't recall the price but was surprisingly low at the time.
Okie Bob

[muldoon]

What great feedback and ideas, I knew this was the place to ask. 

When I skirt mobile homes I pour a small 4" thick footing and frame a wall from footing to underside using pt lumber.

By attaching to a weak footing is the skirting susceptible to affects from ground movement?  I would think on a mobile home as you have no solid deep foundation that anchoring skirting framing to both the trailer and ground might cause trouble with warping, twisting and such?  Likely I am just overthinking it, but have you ever seen this as an issue?

Using a treated wood frame and hardy board siding is also an option.

I like the material, but I am unsure of installation in a verticle fashion.  The ground where I am at is not level, I have a slope so one side is raised more than another.  If I use hardy planks in a horizontal lapped fashion as I have always seen it it either would not be level or it would require many angled cuts.  Neither are preferred for me. 

The panel and vented soffit material look interesting, I'll check them out some more. 

I buy the cedar lattice 4' X 8' panels for $11 ea at home depot. You can also buy pvc panels in differenct colors but, they are $22 each!

This was my first idea actually as well.  I wanted to get a little more critter protection to keep mice and such out, I also would like some degree of wind uplift protection as well.  I love your blog, nice house.  Did you build the boat dock out by the lake? 

My solution is to make a 2X4 frame leaving it 1-2" off the ground.  Since my piers are masonry then I will attach the framing with tapcons on the sides and the floor joist on the top portion.  Then install Board & Batten on the frame.

I think I'm going to do something like this as well with a hanging pt frame.  There is a mill close to the cabin that sells lumber, I think I'm going to go with their eastern cedar fence boards in a board and batten.

Thanks again

[glenn kangiser]

Cool mill - a good resource.

[glenn kangiser]

The only concern I would have about the cedar is keeping a gravel base or garden around the base of the cabin as it makes great kindling.  I don't know how fire prone your area is.

[Redoverfarm]

Muldoon there is just no way around one problem or the other.  If you lower the wood to the ground then you have a problem with rot. If you raise it off the ground then you get critters.  Mine is just a porch so the critters shouldn't be that bad unless one happens to slither out from under and surprise me.  Maybe using a gravel bed directly under the boards will deter critters and allow for drainage.  Speaking of critters.  I used rabbit wire and screen over my ridge in the cabin.  I have been insulating the last several days.  At two locations between the rafters there were two bats.  I suspected this would happen since it was in the woods.  There is no way they can enter the house cavity but with the metal roof and the ridge cap it's hard to keep them out.  Might have to figure a remedy later.

[glenn kangiser]

Possibly you could add a batroom, John.

Actually bats are desirable little creatures around the farm.  They eat tons of mosquitoes and other bugs.  I'd like a whole hoard of them.

Note that we have info on dealing with bats in your belfry. 

http://www.batcon.org/home/default.asp

[Redoverfarm]

That is a good thing I know.  We don't have that many bugs (except for a week or so ago).  They do keep them in check.  I don't mind them except in the area that I reside.  With all the woods around they do have other places to keep house though.  I was just concerned that the batroom would become their private bathroom. 

[glenn kangiser]

Forgot this link to our other bat discussion.

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=505.msg3313#msg3313

Good fertilizer there, John.

[Kiwi55]

I want to put a stone veneer around mine. I was planning on using hardiboard as a backer, but that might be a problem if it needs to stay clear of the soil.
What would you recommend as a backer?
thanks...Paul

[glenn kangiser]

How about a treated wood frame with stucco lath fastened to it - either expanded metal type or chicken wire with paper backing?  Just an idea.  Cement board (tile backer) would provide a backer but not much strength.

[Redoverfarm]

Kiwi55 What I would do is make a frame out of PT lumber and then attach ply leaving it 1-2" above the ground. Then cover it with felt and then attach lathe wire. Then parge the lathe with mortar. Allow 2-3 days to dry out then apply your stone.

That is how I did this around the door



This was done on lathe partly and block partly as well.

[Okie_Bob]

Redoverfarm, that looks really, really good. Thanks for the pics. Do you have a link to more?
Okie Bob

[Kiwi55]

Thanks, That is what I will do. And your place looks great.
...Paul

[Redoverfarm]

Okie There is the CP site where some are found along with a narrative and then Photobucket has the entire construction to date.  They are listed below my signature.