14x36 in Northwest Arkansas

[n74tg]

In that last pic I see you used the good underlay material for the metal roof.  And it's also nice to see that someone knows how to flash a window.  Keep it up.

[considerations]

Wow, its a castle!

[John Raabe]

This project is coming along very nicely!

Just shows what a classic simple building with the right additions and extensions can become.

[poppy]

Good looking build there, Jesse.

The box around the stove pipe looks like a decent way to handle the finish work and flashing.  Do you have any detail pics. of that assembly?

[jdhen]

Thanks all, for the positive comments!  It's that kind of encouragement that keeps you going 

Poppy,  unfortunately I didn't document the construction of the chimney chase very well.   An experienced carpenter friend helped me turn a simple sketch into a sturdy support for the woodstove pipe.  It's basically a framed box but the challenge was nailing a box together with a 45 degree angle on one end.  We stood there and scratched our heads more that a few times!  We cobbled the frame together, lag screwed it to the roof from below and then sheathed it in place.   
Originally, I was planning on flashing the pipe with a typical rubber boot but my roofer suggested this and I think it will work out quite well. 

All doors and windows are in

[speedfunk]

Jesse, We are leaning 95% toward standing seam.  Thanks so much for posting the price, that helps a lot as I have not looked into the cost yet.  I agree for that little amount I feel it's well worth it also, good decision. 

The big thing for us is the way out the roof overhangs are constructed ... or not constructed really lol.  There's not rafters supporting the roof overhang becuase we stopped them short to allow an envelope of insulation.  I think that the extra strength of the standing seam will allow the metal to overhang more.  Our firstday cottage has corrugated steel  and it's kind of wimpy.  We need TUFF!!   Is there a brand or type of standing seam your having installed.  Again I have not looked into this to much as I'm thinking it will be spring before the roof gets installed (winter over with just typar) we will see.

It looks like things are moving really well for you!  It's nice to have natural light..I actualy think the porch roof looks better the way you did it versus going all the way down the house. 

[jdhen]

Jeff-  Our roofer is custom rolling our metal on site.  I did, however, look into factory cut panels first when I considered doing it myself.
Check out this website
http://www.michianabuildingsupplies.com/index.htm?http://www.michianabuildingsupplies.com/standing_seam/mbs_standing_seam_pricing.htm
They sell a factory cut concealed fastener panel in 26 gauge which would give you the increased strength you're looking for.   They price them per foot depending on gauge and width of  the panel.  Click on the link below the picture that says " quick install guide" and they have an extensive gallery of pictures that walks you through the install process.

[Redoverfarm]

Jesse a friend of mine did the same with his flue.  He had a builder to fabricate a standing cap on top with a diamond screen as a spark guard.  The complete cap sits on top of the framed flue cavity so there was no need for a flue cap or boot and the top of the chase was waterproof.  He wrapped his with Hardee board matched to the color of his siding.  Actually it was just oversize of his chase and the bottom side slips over the first couple inches of the siding.  It is two layered with the first layer being the layer that the flue pipe penetrates and the second about 10" above that is the roof cap.  The diamond screen is on the sides between the two.

I was just thinking how you are going to seal up the chase on the top.  You could use a metal cap broke down over the sides some but either way you will probably have to have a boot to make that seal aound the exterior pipe.   

[jdhen]

Red- My roofer says he's going to fabricate a chase cap and then a collar around the pipe.  But now that you mention it, it seems that the chase cover will be flat and a boot would be the best thing to seal around the pipe where it exits through the chase cap.....hmmm.  I'll have to check with him on that.  Glad you pointed that out.

[devildog]

jdhen, Ive watched your build closely. I really like the shed roofs, more than gables, and I really like the small narrow windows you have between the shed  and gable roof.I cant explain why, just do.

A couple years back I drew up ahouse Id like to build, and still will one day, if the Lord allows. Id like to show it to you, mainly because your place reminds me of it. Its simple, small(not compared to some on here), all plumbing is close together. its not on there but id also build shed roof over  a back patio out the door by the laundry, which I think would make it more like yours.

[jdhen]

Devildog,  The small awning window idea came to us after we visited Prairie Grove Battlefield, a park not far from our land.  Once we saw the Latta House we knew we had to add the windows above the shed roofs.


They're not going to be big windows to look out as they sit only 10 inches off the finish floor but they do throw some ambient light into the lofts and will allow us to have cross ventilation which is probably the main reason we decided to add them. 
I like your plans.  It's funny that before we bought John's plans we had very similar ideas with the 2 opposing shed roofs with the clerestory windows at the front of the higher one. 
I hope you get a chance to build it someday!

[jdhen]

I finally got around to hooking up the gutters to the tanks.  I should have done it months ago when it was raining all the time but my main focus at that time was to get the house dried in.  Wouldn't have taken much and I'd have full tanks now....oh, well.  This is unlikely to be the final configuration as I will have to change it around a bit when I enclose the pole barn.  It should do for now.


Started on the loft floors.  The 2x6 t&g is going down fairly easily.  I borrowed a screw gun from a friend which is a big step up from my wimpy little 12 volt cordless.  It's made it a lot easier.  I love the way the flooring looks but I do realize that there will be no sneaking around in the loft.  Lot's of squeaks and groans!


The loft will have 2 rooms- one 12x14 and the other 14x16.  The middle 8 ft open section is for the stairs and the walkway between the rooms ( there is a temporary 2x10 joist there now so that I can get back and forth between the lofts)

[devildog]

jdhen, where did you get the 2x6 t&g for your loft floor? Ive looked at lowes and home depot and they dont have it(at least not in florida). I assume you have to get it from a sawmill, and if you dont mind ,how much is it a foot. Ive looked at solid hardwood flooring(3/4") and it was a little exspensive.


BTW thats a great looking old cabin!
Darrell

[jdhen]

I purchased it through my local lumber store. They just called it in to their supplier and I had it a few days later.  It's a special order item so I doubt the big box stores would supply it but I never did check with them.   It's around $6.80 for the 12 footers and almost $9 for the 16 footers.  So that's like .56 cent a board foot.  I thought it was a pretty good price.  I don't think my bill was much over $500 for the finish floor and the ceiling. I'm happy.

[Redoverfarm]

jdhen did you know the location of the walkway before laying the flooring.  The reason I ask is that normally the T&G is weaved across that area with the floor on either side.  Just makes it a little stonger with no hinge points where the walkway would meet the floors of the two rooms.  If you don't think this is an issue then just disregard.

[devildog]

that sounds like a great price to me. I really like this look with nails/screws showing

Darrell

[Redoverfarm]

It is still somewhat common practice to face attach flooring but normally they have wooden plugs sanded off flush to give the appearance of a pegged floor.  A little labor intensive but sharp looks. 

[jdhen]

That's a good point, Red.  Previously, my plan was to place the two floors and then use architectural joist hangers to suspend 4x beams perpendicular to the 4x beams that support the lofts.  I planned to also turn the t&g perpendicular to line the walkway ( I hope this makes sense)  But as I've been laying the floors, I've decided to make some changes.  Instead of a walkway, I want to fill in 1/2 of the middle 8ft of opening with the flooring leaving only the stairway area open to below.  So now it makes sense to keep the t&g in line, rather than turning it perpendicular.  I can adjust the 16 ft loft as I've only laid half of that floor and I'm not yet at the point where the walkway meets it.  So I'll just do as you suggest and weave it.  The smaller side (12 ft long) which I've already laid is another thing.  
I think what I'll do is set my circular saw to proper depth and cut 1.5 inches off of the end of the t&g leaving a lip on the last beam to support the walkway t&g.  The walkway and the 12 ft side will butt together rather than weave but I'll be framing a wall directly over that spot so it won't be visible except in the middle of a doorway.
If I've made any sense and you can picture what I'm talking about, do you see any problems with doing this?

[Redoverfarm]

Sense somewhat.  With the partition being over the seam then that will usually not be a traveled area so you would probably be OK.  If you are just to the point of the doorway you might consider removing what few you have and shift every other one through that doorway to meet. I know it is a PIA but if you used screws it shouldn't be but a few minutes to make the adjustment.  You may have a little more waste but a more solid floor in that traveled area.  But as I said before if you are satisfied then that is what's important.  I staggered mine in both loft areas and made a 90 deg turn and I still have sweaks but it is tolerable.  I think it is just the nature of the beast.  I mean wood against wood on a moveable enviroment.  Did you wax the edges. Just kidding.

[jdhen]

You had me going for a second- "no one told me to wax the edges!"

So, is it an aesthetic reason for not letting them butt at the door?  Or is it also that the butt edges may open somewhat with the foot traffic stress on the wood.  Do you think placing an interior threshold would solve the problem?
I want to exhaust all options before I take back up what I so carefully laid down 

[Redoverfarm]

jdhen I am assuming that the flooring that meets in the doorway is also the same that bridges the area from room to room.  If in fact there is some movement in the flooring it is doubtful that a threshold would help because it will be movement from the joist up in a verticle fashion and not necessarily horizontal although that could occur.  It's hard to tell from your photograph but it appears that you ended your flooring on the outside edge of your 4X(toward the landing or stairway).  If so then by adding any portion of the "landing" so to speak as a stand alone floor you would be compromising the strength of the floor to work together as one with the aid of the Tounge and groove rather than seperately. 

I think what you were after was a floor without "butt" joints which are more pleasing to the eye but when you have an area larger than the demensions of your material (lengthwise) it is a necessary evil to maintain the strength.  I may be all wet but that is just my $.02 worth.  Maybe others will pick up and join in. 

[jdhen]

Red- I'm going to take some better photos tomorrow so it's clear what I'm doing.  One problem I've noted today is that I can't pull up what I've already laid down on the short side because what I've been calling 12 ft is actually cut down to 11ft 7 inches and those wouldn't be enough to span the other beams (each on roughly 48 inch centers) without wasting almost 48 inches of each t&g board that I try to use else ware.
I'll post some pics tomorrow night to try and give you a better idea of the situation.
Thanks.

[speedfunk]

Thanks Jesse that link was really helpful.  It's a part of the project that is still in the air .  Seeing that slideshow helped a great deal to see how it would work with our roof

Jeff-  Our roofer is custom rolling our metal on site.  I did, however, look into factory cut panels first when I considered doing it myself.
Check out this website
http://www.michianabuildingsupplies.com/index.htm?http://www.michianabuildingsupplies.com/standing_seam/mbs_standing_seam_pricing.htm
They sell a factory cut concealed fastener panel in 26 gauge which would give you the increased strength you're looking for.   They price them per foot depending on gauge and width of  the panel.  Click on the link below the picture that says " quick install guide" and they have an extensive gallery of pictures that walks you through the install process.

[jdhen]

Glad that link worked for you, Jeff.  The pics do make it look like with a few tools anyone could install that roofing.  Wish I had the guts to do it myself!  Should be a bit easier on your roof pitch though.  Good luck figuring what to do!

[jdhen]

Well, I think I have this floor thing figured out.  At first I was going to make a 36 inch walkway to connect the two floors.  I'd planned to pair this this beam pictured below with another one and place the t&g perpendicular to the other (I'm not sure why I thought this was a good idea )

So instead I placed the second beam parallel with the other larger beams and connected it to the perpendicular one:

Now I could lay the flooring in line with the other but I couldn't pull up what I'd laid down because I'd already cut them too short to fit anywhere else.
So I'm left with decking flush with a beam:

So, I decided to set my saw to depth and cut out 1.5 inches to create a lip for the rest of the decking to connect to.

So now I'm butting the decking on one side and weaving it in with the other floor.

Red, I wish I'd posted on this before I'd laid down the short side.  I would have preferred to weave both sides as you suggested.  Oh well.  I know it's not ideal but I think it should work out just fine.  I will put a low profile wood threshold to hide the butt area that would be exposed for the door and as I mentioned before the rest of it will be covered under the wall framing.


I also wanted to share a technique that a friend told me about.  It may be common knowledge to some but I'd never seen it in any book or anywhere else.
I was having trouble pulling the t&g together when I was too far from one edge to use my pipe clamp.  My friend told me to take a 2x8 or larger, long enough to span over two beams.  Then I cut a scrap piece of t&g on a slight taper and put it between the 2x8 and the decking that is not fitting flush. 

I'd screw the 2x8 to the beams and then gently hammer the larger end of the scrap t&g until it fit snug and pressed the bowed piece flush with the next one.

Anyway, it worked well for me.  Maybe it could help someone else down the road!