14 x 24 Olympic Peninsula

[PEG688]

   How much does the stove weigh? If it's two person lift I'd double up the 3/4 ply on top before the vement brd.

  The spar varnish should work well, of course the inside of the box will get beat up by the wood being thrown in.

  Your floors look to be getting a nice patina , looks like nice stock as well.

  Is that a gap I see to the left of the left hand post?   You did lay it as tight as you could get it right?

It looks good all in all.   

[Redoverfarm]

I would second the additional layer of ply.  Then you could get closer to the post on that one.  The tricky part will be getting the tile real close.  I think I would carboard pattern on that and then transfer to the tile.  OR you could cut a slight kerf in the post to allow the tile to be let into the post.  But I would leave a little gap toward the top of the tile for settling.

[MountainDon]

I'd also glue the two layers of plywood together with good carpenters glue. Use screws to "clamp" them together. Space them in a grid pattern every 8 inches or so. That will increase the stiffness.

[considerations]

Ok, I'll double the plywood. 

"Is that a gap I see to the left of the left hand post?   You did lay it as tight as you could get it right?"

You pegged it PEG there are gaps, because I just stacked all the pieces like a house of cards to take the picture. 

I haven't started fastening anything together because I started thinking about the finish...and there are a few places i haven't "figured out" yet.   My first "piece of furniture" I guess.   

[PEG688]

Ok, I'll double the plywood. 

"Is that a gap I see to the left of the left hand post?   You did lay it as tight as you could get it right?"

You pegged it PEG there are gaps, because I just stacked all the pieces like a house of cards to take the picture. 

I was talking about on the floor between the 2x6 T&G. 

[considerations]

"I was talking about on the floor between the 2x6 T&G"

Nope, maybe an optical delusion?    I knew I should have swept better before taking the picture.  I think plywood makes more sawdust than regular lumber.

[Redoverfarm]

Have you given any thought about some type of heat protection on the wall behind where the stove would set or the step side?

[considerations]

"Have you given any thought about some type of heat protection on the wall behind where the stove would set or the step side?"

Yes, quite a bit of thought, although nothing firm just yet.  I've spent a lot of time looking at not just the regs, but also how people install heat shielding for wood stoves in boats (Ok, Yachts).  There are some pretty good looking and practical/safe ideas.

Definitely there will be a shield with accommodation for convection. And likely some shielding behind that as well.  I think the hottest part of the stove will be near the top and the first 3 or so feet of chimney, so the shield will likely be at least that tall, maybe more.

I do care a lot about the aesthetics. After all the work to make the stairs look "satisfactory", I don't want an ugly stove installation.

Bottom line is, though, I'll take ugly before I risk safety.   I'll post and ask for input when I have a "plan".  I appreciate the feedback here, it's been priceless (and sometimes hilarious 

[ScottA]

I'd invest in some stainless plates for heat shields mounted with standoffs from the wall about an inch or so. Anything behind that should be fine.

[MountainDon]

While we're spending consuderations money, I vote for sheet copper

http://store.electrical-insulators-and-copper-ground-bars.com/copper-sheet.html

[Beavers]

"I'm also considering using 2x6 T&G for my flooring.  The T&G would cost more upfront but, I would be able to have a finished floor for only $1.55 a sq. ft. if you included the cost of a 3/4" T&G plywood subfloor.  "

I seem to remember spending $750 for enough 2x6 T&G do do the 14 x 24 floor....and I had 3 16' pieces left over... no subfloor, just insulation and a critter barrier underneath.

"Have you been happy with your floor so far?" 

Yes

"Has it been gouged up much during construction or gotten any water damage?"

No water damage thanks to the dire warnings about how and why to protect it from the members of this forum.

Gouging? well, nothing horrendous.  I'm banking on sanding it and then applying the same sort of stuff that hardens up gym floors.  During the construction, I keep sweeping up the woodchips and picking up the errant nails to help preserve the surface.  Plus I have 3 rugs for foot wiping that you have to step on before going inside, and I use them. I keep a tarp laying outside that collects a 4" deep puddle of rainwater to rinse boots on before wiping them on the rugs.  Crude but effective and no one argues about doing it, mostly its just me.

I'll be using "coasters" on any furniture feet and area rugs that will stand up to being hung outside and cleaned with a pressure washer. 

If it goes to the dogs, I'll consider a different type of finish, but I saw softwood floors over 200 years old in Virginia that had held up just fine.

"Would you use it again?"

Yes.  I've pulled carpets out of old places and I don't want to live with what gets stuck down in the weave of wall to walls.   I'm also suspicious of the damp that wafts up out of the ground around here.  Even with moisture barriers on the ground, floors made with particle type sheets seem to blow out faster than plain old wood.  I'll let you know in 25 years how it turned out. 

Thanks for the info.    Your floor does look great in that last photo!

I found 1x4 T&G Douglas Fir for about half the price of the 2x6 stuff.  If my joists are 2x12 16" o.c. would there be any problem with using the 1x4's ?  How about prefinishing the floor with something like Thompson's?  I realize I would most likely have to refinsh after construction, but it seems like it would protect the floor in the mean time.  Good idea...or not?

[Redoverfarm]

Personally about the span and the bounce I couldn't tell you but definitely need to finish at least the bottom or the portion that will be showing for a ceiling.  I prefinished mine on both sides just to protect it while working on the inside.  Now since the majority of the ceiling and drywall is almost done I will refinish it.  There was no way I could have finished it correctly on the ceiling side with the beams. And mine were 30" span.

[Beavers]

I'm planning on doing like considerations, and use the T&G for the main floor in-place of a subfloor.  I'll also be using it in the loft though. 

When you prefinished yours did you finish the T or the G too?  Does that gum things up when trying to fit things together if you do finish everything?

[considerations]

"I prefinished mine on both sides just to protect it while working on the inside."

Redover, what did you use?

[Redoverfarm]

considerations I used Mimwax oil based stain.  Then followed with Polycrylic (2 coats floor and 3 coats ceiling sides)  Polycrylic is not good for wear so the ceiling will be fine.  I will followup with touching the floor stain up then apply 2 coats of oil poly to the floors. Mimwax advised it was ok to use oil over polycrylic when sufficent drying time was allowed. It will wear better. On the ceiling I used a water based exterior enamel in  a whitewash or pickled effect and then the  Polycrylic on top. 

Mimwax Polycrylic is costly at about $42 a gallon.  I think Zinnser has one out there also but I haven't tried it.

[MountainDon]

I found 1x4 T&G Douglas Fir for about half the price of the 2x6 stuff.  If my joists are 2x12 16" o.c. would there be any problem with using the 1x4's ? 

It just occurred to me that most of the 1x T&G I've seen around here is smooth on the side where the bevel is. However, it is rough sawn on the other side, the side that you would walk on, unless you wanted those bevels on the floor side.  Then the ceiling would be rough.

I have seen some smooth both sides, but because of the extra planing it was maybe 5/8" thick at best.

I don't know how much flex you'd have on a main floor of 1x material with 16" OC joists. The T&G will strengthen the floor but I wonder how it would work with a big heavy refrigerator, or a big sofa with three 250 lb guys sitting on it.   

[glenn kangiser]

Usually it is doubled if 1x with the other layer running perpendicular or diagonal underneath and it may not be t&g going from old buildings I have seen..

[Beavers]

Thanks Glenn, and Don.

I think I'll stick with 2x6...would hate have the fridge fall thru the floor just because I got cheap on the flooring. 

[PEG688]

I think I'll stick with 2x6...would hate have the fridge fall thru the floor just because I got cheap on the flooring. 

There's nothing wrong with the double 1x flooring UNLESS you plan on spacing your joist the same way you would for 2x T&G.

  If you space your joist 16" OC the first  layer would go on the joist after you roll your joist and BEFORE you stand your walls . The second layer or in this case the finished flooring would be layed after you sheet rocker and painted , so during the finishing phase of construction.

Considerations decided  to use 2x6 T&G  and IIRC she spaced her joist 24"  OC. She can confirm that.

BUT the point is the 2X stock was intended to be used over a wider spaced floor framing system, we used to space the joist 32" OC and used 4x6 or 8" "joist" under the joist where other beams running 90 deg. to the floor joist . So the 2x6 T&G floors mainly where done that way. Then at finishing time sub flooring and / or carpet was layed over as the finished floor.

Most houses have  3/4"  T&G plywood or OSB subflooring today with joist spaced 16" OC or 19.25" OC , or some times 24" OC.

So I would NOT abandon your plan until you decide what exactly you plan on doing for joist.

Your being lead down a path that Glenn and Don did NOT intend to lay out.   

So back up and rethink what choices your making before you rule things out.           

[glenn kangiser]

I didn't know the finer points on that. Just remember working on a few in remodels in the past.
Thanks, PEG.

[MountainDon]

   yeah! My parents old house had strip hardwood floors laid over 1x plain square edge boards. Approx 100 years old now. The subfloor was plain 1x boards laid at an angle across the joists. The finish floor was maple hardwood T&G... not sure exactly how thick, but it was fairly hefty. The floor joists were probably about 16" OC, going by a poor memory. Doesn't seem like they were 24"   

I never thought of using that 1x material that was mentioned, over a subfloor. That would work well. Of course, I think what clouded my thought process was the use of T&G for the floor/ceiling in a loft floor. There you would want to avoid the use of a two layered floor. MTL.

[considerations]

"Considerations decided  to use 2x6 T&G  and IIRC she spaced her joist 24"  OC. She can confirm that."

Yes, my floor joists are 24" OC, to the best of my "abilities"    ....which are somewhat improved since then.

[considerations]

The stairs have been an agonizingly slow process, but a few more days and they will be done....except handrails and other frufru.



Yep the winders are temporary 3/4 ply...but not for long!  They are amazingly natural to walk, I was worried they'd feel weird or cramped.





Life keeps taking up all my time!   

[glenn kangiser]

Lookin' good there young lady.

[Dog]

Wow! Those stairs look awesome!