Al and Robins 20x30 1 1/2 near Lake Eufaula, OK

[ajbremer]

I put #15 paper down on top of the OSB for the back porch roof. Next comes the shingles:

[Redoverfarm]

Al is that ice/storm guard underlayment on the drip edge?  Might prevent ice dams if you are installing gutters.  But generally it is laided first and stair stepped up with felt to the higher portion.  Is there any reason you used 15# istead of 30#? Tried to look at some of the photo's to see if you used a drip edge to protect the edge of the sheeting but was only one that I seen of the edge.

[ajbremer]

Thanks Redoverfarm, nice to hear from you.

Yes, I used a drip-edge under the #15. I used the #15 because I thought that would do the job.

I guess I don't know what you mean by 'ice/storm guard underlayment'...do you mean the #15 felt?

Thanks again Redoverfarm

[Redoverfarm]

Thanks Redoverfarm, nice to hear from you.

Yes, I used a drip-edge under the #15. I used the #15 because I thought that would do the job.

I guess I don't know what you mean by 'ice/storm guard underlayment'...do you mean the #15 felt?

Thanks again Redoverfarm

It is a ruberized membrane that self heals from nail penetrations.  Usually 36-39" wide.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/W-R-Grace-36-in-x-75-ft-Grace-Ice-Water-Shield-5003002/202088840#.UivVx9zD9jo

In this neck of the woods #15 is usually used for walls and #30 for the roof.  They say it is more protection for the shingles and extends their life some.

[ajbremer]

Thanks again,

I didn't know about the #15 for walls and #30 for roofs - thanks.

[ajbremer]

Tuesday Morning - September 10th, 2013 @ 11:25am Oklahoma

I started to shingle the back porch roof yesterday, only got a couple of rows up...man it's hot up there on that black paper, I can't even kneel on it.

I did my whole main roof by hand and hammer. I had a friend from work lend me nails and a roofing nail gun, wow - I like that idea!

[ajbremer]

My wife is a poser!

I asked her if she would come up on the roof and lay some shingles down. She said all that she would do is 'pose' with one:

[ajbremer]

A few more rows today:
(Pic coming soon)

[Redoverfarm]

Al the seasoned roofers work at daybreak until 11AM then knock off until 6PM and hit it another couple of hours before dark. You don't realize how hot a roof can be until you try it at mid day.

[MountainDon]

Here in town we get a couple hours of decent light before the sun breaks over the mountain to the east. It's the best time of day for roofs.

[ajbremer]

My countryplan house is kind of up on stilts, angle iron stilts and it's about 4 feet off the ground.

Here's a guys log-home (kind of looks like a countryplan home too) but he built it about 100 feet up off the ground:

Picture first and then video link:



http://www.kltv.com/story/23396876/grandfather-builds-towering-playhouse

[ColchesterCabin]

That's super awesome, sounds like something I would do....

[ajbremer]

Got a few more rows of shingles done on the back porch yesterday:
(Pic coming soon)


Question: My back porch roof is about 5" lower than the end of the shingles of the main roof, there's a gap there. At first I thought about going right up to the house with felt (which I did) and then just cover it with shingles leaving the gap. BUT, a driving rain could splash up into the gap. What is the best way to have the porch roof meet up with the main roof, flashing? Or could I just shove shingles under the main roof shingles and then drop them down and have them meet the porch roof? The only problem I see with that is that there would be no backing and/or support in that area. Here's a picture of my problem:

[rick91351]

What Jerry our old roofer would have done there most likely would have been lay your flashing into the marriage line.  Then start across working up between the tails of your rafters with matching shingles.  All the while he is yelling in some dialect about building in proper order and putting the cart before the horse and do it yourselfers.  All the while lecturing on you have any idea how hard it is to nail something properly in places like that?

Nope Jerry that's why I called you...............       (Jerry is no longer here - past away last year - got to find another Jerry    )

[Redoverfarm]

The proper approach would have been to flash the intersection where the porch roof meets the siding of the house.  Second problem is that your rafter tails should not be exposed.  Without them being plumb cut it will be very difficult to make that step in a transition from the porch to the main roof at their ends.  Yes it might possibly be able to be done but will take some ingenuity.  What is the overhang on the shingle edge to the upper portion of the rafter tail? 

[rick91351]

John is right and that is what I meant by the marriage line for the flashing. 

Here there are still some houses and cabins built with exposed tails.  But we do not get the moisture and you have to regardless keep them well painted.  The sun wrecks havoc on exposed wood just the same as moisture.  And I think now houses designed with such have to be vented for such rather than using standard soffit vents or what we called blocking vents up between the tails notched out and screen over.  Pretty hard to have soffit vents if there is none.              

[ajbremer]

I will put flashing under the main roof shingles - down to and on top of the porch roof shingles and then tar/seal the nails.

[Redoverfarm]

I will put flashing under the main roof shingles - down to and on top of the porch roof shingles and then tar/seal the nails.

Al by blocking off the air flow  you will have no venting for your house roof.  How much clearence is there between the tip of the rafter tails and the shingles on the porch roof?

[MountainDon]

Can you get into that space with a palm nailer?
http://www.amazon.com/BOSTITCH-PN50-Mini-Impact-Nailer/dp/B002RU94B2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1379010838&sr=8-4&keywords=palm+nailer+cordless


And are there nails that can be used for roofing with a palm nailer? That I don't know.

~~~~~~

How is the main roof vented anyhow?

[ajbremer]

Done with the shingles on the back porch. I put a small piece of flashing in picture just to show how I plan to use flashing down the whole length:

[ajbremer]

I just about finished my flashing between the main 12:12 pitch and 2:12 pitch roof transitions. I used a 12" wide flashing.



You can see how I attached my flashing in this little picture. I was given advice to use that Grace Vycor rubber stuff and I'm going to apply the Grace flashing over the top of the metal flashing with the idea that the metal will support the grace better.

I guess it all may seem weird but to me it feels very sturdy and I don't believe no wind, hail, snow, ice, or rain will be able to make the metal flashing come loose or bend.
(Pic coming soon)

[North Sask]

Hi Al,

I just spent a week reading through your entire thread. Very interesting story. I learned a lot from your experience. It's been about three months since your last post. Any updates for us?

[ajbremer]

Friday Night - December 27th, 2013 @ 8:20pm

Got the front done with my log-siding.

I have a friend who has his own planer and he charges me $0.95 a linear foot. He uses #1 2x8's 16 foot long. They are very good quality.

Also, there's a link after the picture to a video of me on the front porch playing a Christmas song. I was going to practice it and do a few takes but after the first take my Border Collie howled and it was so cool that we used the first take. You see, our border collie doesn't like any high pitches on any musical instruments and goes berserk, howls, whines, etc. so we always have to put him out in the back when I play. Just listen near the end...it kinda sounds like we're in Alaska around wolves or something.
(Pic coming soon)


Here's the video link: http://www.sonicunity.com/al2013.mov

[ajbremer]

December 30th, 2013 @ 8:08am Monday Morning: Oklahoma

The house may look like I'm getting close to done but I still have a long way to go.

In the beginning, when I told my friends at work that I was going to live in the place as soon as I had a roof and walls up they told me that it would take 'forever' to finish. Well, it is taking a long time - they were right!

I've made some inner rooms, built walls (closets, bedrooms) on the inside, put batt insulation between some of the rafters, and insulated the inside of 'some' exterior walls. I've been living without insulation for some time now. Of course that means putting a lot more logs into the wood stove and using more electricity for the window air conditioner units but we have kept warm and cool.

I have a question: I've got a lot of insulation and I'm trying to figure out where the best place to start would be. Because of work and some other things, it goes slow so I need to insulate first where it would be the most advantageous to this cold weather.

My house is about 4 feet off the ground, up on angle-iron and steel tube piers. There is no insulation between the floor joists down there and the place has no skirting of any kind so the wind and the cold just blow right under there. So even when the place is 'warm and comfy', the floor is cold. The south and east sides of the house have log-siding on the outside. Some one told me that 1" of wood is equal to 3" of insulation - I wonder if that's true?

Anyway, where should I start to insulate first? Should I use my wider batts and insulate under the floor between the joists, should I finish up insulating the cathedral ceiling because heat rises and that would keep the heat in? Or, should I start by insulating the walls? I'm kind of thinking that even though the place is warm, the floor is acting like a refrigerator - I'm not sure. Any suggestions as to where I should start to put my insulation?

[astidham]

Hey Al,
I would insulate the ceiling first since up is the quickest escape route for heat followed by walls.
As far as the floor goes, I would skirt your crawl space, and insulate against the skirting before I would insulate the joist underside