14x24 Cabin help with pics?

LightningBG · December 19, 2011, 03:53:03 PM

We also thought of using a 8 inch cinder block to boost it up. Thought was to put a bolt though the current strongtie, set a 8x8x8 cinder block over it (1/2 cinder block), then fill with concrete and put new ties in. Mand has a call into the inspector to see what he has to say. (I'm sure they really love dealing with rookies).

He is in WI.

Native_NM · December 19, 2011, 05:40:39 PM

You have the Sonotube footings in place. Don't limit yourself to the existing connectors. You can cut them flush, and install new connectors with epoxy. You would have to drill 1" holes into the base 8" deep, clean them with compressed air, and then inject the epoxy and set the new anchor bolt. These are code-approved, but check with your inspector first.

It would be a bit more work, but would allow you to switch to a connector that fits your desired post size.

December 19, 2011, 06:16:35 PM

That would probably work too. There are many ways to get it done.

A note of caution, concrete doesn't stick well to other concrete. A few ways that it is usually done is with mortar, concrete adheasive, or a key way.

LightningBG · December 19, 2011, 07:16:54 PM

We got word from the inspector. He said anything within 12 inches of the ground has to be pressure treated, which the beams and floor joists are, so we're good to go.

mand0092 · January 09, 2012, 04:17:35 PM

After taking a few weeks off from the project I worked all weekend getting back on track. Replaced the beams that we found out wouldn't work and would be a code violation. This wasn't an easy fix since we had everything already anchored in and ready for subflooring.
I decided to have doubled up 2x12 treated beams but have the seems not only on a footing but also not have 2 seems meet on any 1 footing.

After the beams were replaced I squared them off and then reset the joists (which were in two large sections weighing a whole lot). I squared off the joists and connected the hurricane ties, the joist hangers and ended up doubling up the center joist in case I wanted to have extra support for a loft beam. I also added a couple supports between the beams so that it would have extra stabalizing support between the two beams.

I added blocking in between the joists (7' in and rotating 2" on either side)
Here is the final picture after fixing everything. Should be ready for floor/walls soon.

January 09, 2012, 04:24:55 PM

Probably extra work but will be worth the effort in the long run. I am sure this will not be the only thing that will be changed as it is always the case when building. If you are under code compliance then hopefully those changes will fall under compliance. Looking good.

Alan Gage · January 09, 2012, 04:25:11 PM

Good work.

I absolutely hate having to take something apart to redo it but in the end it's usually worth it.

Alan

Don_P · January 09, 2012, 07:56:54 PM

As Dad would hand me the cat's paw "A good carpenter fixes his mistakes".
With the sawzall my mistakes became alot less painful, probably ought to put it under "favorite tools"

mand0092 · January 24, 2012, 05:16:31 PM

Hey guys,

I have an opportunity to pick up some rough cut 1x8x12 white oak planks. I was toying with using them as indoor siding to give my place a rustic feel.

If I have subflooring down, would it work to use the 1x8 planks for a rustic flooring also? the planks would not be t&g. It would just be nailed into the subflooring/joists

January 24, 2012, 06:51:51 PM

They will probably open up with humidity/drying. Good place for dirt to hide when their wide.

mand0092 · February 15, 2012, 02:24:27 PM

I just purchased the floor insulation but wanted to get some suggestions before I purchased the underside flooring.

My floor joists are about 12-15" off the ground. both the beams and joists are treated. Im insulating the floor and then putting OSB subflooring on top. what should I use for the bottom flooring under the insulation/vapor barrier? The ends are cantilevered 1' on the sides (maybe do treated plywood under that?). could I get by with osb painted under the building since it won't see any elements? It's not the end of the world if I can't but I was just trying to figure it out and save some money ($60 vs $250)..

Thanks

Squirl · February 15, 2012, 04:20:57 PM

I would probably opt for seam taped rigid foam.
Air/vapor barrier.
Less stud heat loss.
Can't rot.
Cheaper than plywood.

mand0092 · March 18, 2012, 09:37:17 PM

Worked the last 4 days installing the underlayment, vapor barrier, insulation and subflooring. We now have a platform to work from! I've scheduled materials and a team to install walls, trusses, sheathing roof and windows In 3 weeks!!!!!

mand0092 · March 19, 2012, 11:25:52 AM

Below is the underlayment I installed this past weekend. It's exterior Plywood that I painted with an exterior paint. I didn't have much room (18" from earth to underlayment) so it made install pretty difficult.

The next photo is of the top side looking down through the floor Joists. you can see that I added a vapor barrier above the underlayment to reduce any moisture coming from the earth underneath.

The next photo shows the progress on the insulation. I used 10" thick R30 insulation that was 15" wide (to fit my 16 on center joists and my 2x10 joists). it fit in perfectly!

After 4 days of crawling in the dirt and mud, I was able to finish the underlayment, the vapor barrier, the insulation and the subfloor top. I now have a platform to work from and start the walls!!! I covered the subfloor with a large tarp as I didn't want any rain to affect the OSB. Materials are being delivered for the 2x6 studs, Sheathing, trusses and roof sheathing in 2 weeks.

March 19, 2012, 07:56:17 PM

Should be a warm floor. Best of luck with the tarp and any rain/snow.

mand0092 · March 19, 2012, 11:10:08 PM

I've buttoned up the floor pretty good. I'm hoping the moisture won't affect it. Here's to hoping!

mand0092 · April 09, 2012, 09:42:58 AM

Well, after a very long weekend we made a lot of progress on the cabin. Got all the walls up, windows framed and half the cabin wrapped with sheething. After work tonight i'll get most of the sheething finished on the walls and then the rest of the week i'll focus on getting the roof sheething on. Just wanted to post some pics of the progress.

Here are the stairs I put in to get up into the woods to the cabin.

Here are the materials after they were dropped off

Here is the first wall that went up...ps...2x6x12' walls 24' in length with window/door headers are pretty heaving to lift

Picture of a tree branch coming into the roof at 15' tall

Bracing the trusses

More pics of the scissor trusses

Finished for the day after the walls, trusses and sheething were on.

Sassy · April 13, 2012, 01:31:42 PM

Looks like you're getting a lot done - looking good!

mand0092 · April 16, 2012, 11:13:08 AM

worked all week on the building...If I had to do it all over, i probably wouldn't do 12' walls and a 12/12 pitch....its a pain to work on and taller than any building in my area I think.

I was able to get the building completely sheathed, roof sheathed and tarpapered and the first row of Tyvec on (before I ran out).

I covered the window openings so that it wouldn't allow water in. We had some pretty hard storms last night and it kept all the water out.

Next weekend i'll work on finishing up the house wrap and installing the windows.

My inspector came out on Friday and signed off on all the framing so thats behind us.

mand0092 · April 23, 2012, 08:42:11 AM

Worked on the cabin a little more this weekend. We were able to finish up the house wrap and get it all dried in. This week we'll be working on getting the metal roof on and hopefully the windows/doors installed.

It has been raining on and off for the majority of the week so I worked on setting all of the loft Joists. I used 2x10's and spanned them about 13'2" to a jack stud attached to a wall stud and then nailed it all in. This should allow me to span the distance without having to have a center support for the loft as 2x10's can that far for joists.

Im thinking about throwing in a line of blocking just to firm up the loft joists too.

April 24, 2012, 08:30:45 AM

Here is a better picture of the Loft after the joists were all done.

Does anyone know if I should put 1/2" osb or 3/4" osb for subflooring on t
he loft? I don't want to go overboard, but definately don't want to have a soft floor either...the 2x10 joists are 16 on center.

John_M · April 24, 2012, 08:49:36 AM

You'll probably want to go with the 3/4 osb, but try and find the tongue and groove stuff made for subfloors. They will lock into together and make for a more ridgid flooring system.

Don't forget to add glue to the joists before you put the floor down to reduce squeaks!

Redoverfarm · April 24, 2012, 10:08:57 AM

Quote from: John_M on April 24, 2012, 08:49:36 AM
You'll probably want to go with the 3/4 osb, but try and find the tongue and groove stuff made for subfloors. They will lock into together and make for a more ridgid flooring system.

Don't forget to add glue to the joists before you put the floor down to reduce squeaks!

2nd the 3/4" T&G. In addition SCREW don't nail it down.

mand0092 · April 24, 2012, 11:40:08 AM

Thanks guys! I will pick up the 3/4" subflooring tomorrow and throw it up there. I'll make sure to glue/screw it down too. I appreciate the help!

mand0092 · April 24, 2012, 01:08:24 PM

Since the underpart of the loft will be visible, do you know if they make a product thats t&g and looks good from underneath? im thinking something that looks like the t&g pine you'd throw on the walls but used for flooring? almost like a plank type I could use directly on the joists?