Deer Run- 16x26 in Oklahoma

ScottA · May 14, 2009, 03:21:14 PM

North siding done. Lots of rain around here lately.

MountainDon · May 14, 2009, 05:07:46 PM

Looking good, Scott.

May 14, 2009, 07:11:15 PM

Scott I noticed that you didn't stagger the joints in the long wall. Was that just a personal preference? Are you going to use something to underpin the cabin?

ScottA · May 14, 2009, 10:32:21 PM

It's just the look I guess John. What do you mean by underpin?

MountainDon · May 15, 2009, 01:01:36 AM

a foundation cover, like mobile home skirting

May 15, 2009, 07:37:57 AM

Not unless I find a problem with leaving it open. I do plan to wrap the concrete blocks with stone. The underside of the floor will be insulated and sheathed.

Redoverfarm · May 15, 2009, 10:19:54 AM

That was going to be my suggestion. If you really felt energetic you could frame between the post, tuck it back 1/3 the depth of your collumns and sheet. lathe and rock as well. I have a simular problem at mine and I haven't decided what to do. I already rocked the collumns. Again it depends on how energetic I feel.

ScottA · May 15, 2009, 02:27:32 PM

I got the expanded metal on the wall around the veranda door. As I understand it I need to put a 1/2" layer of mortar over this with groves scratched in it before I can install the stone veneer. I ordered the stone from Lowes today. They have it for 10% off this weekend. My order is due in by june 5.

Here is what we are using. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=290588-86200-1022&lpage=none

Does this look alright John? Or do I need more nails?

Redoverfarm · May 15, 2009, 03:48:33 PM

Scott just start at the bottom with 1/2 trowel (rectangle 4X8 or 4X10") loaded to the bottom edge. Holding at a 45 degree apply pressure and move up the wall until it runs out. Get another load and start just a couple of inches below where it ran out and do it again. Several tiimes in fact.

. You just need to cover the lathe wire by 1/8"-3/16". Just work it as you go up to make it fairly even. When it dries you will probably start seeing the design of the lathe but don't get concerned. When it cures out they will disappear. Give it a couple of days and you are ready to lay the stone.

I normally start at the bottom. Some of the stones may be a little contrary and not have enough surface to hold self supported. Thats when a little sliver of scrap between the previous stone will hold. Doesn't take too long to bond. Then keep going. By the time you may need another sliver just reach down and get the previous one you used. I have never had the need to scratch or rake the parge coat. Never had any bonding problems. Most likely your parge coat will wick the moisture from the back of the stone mortar.
If this happens (will not bond or falls off) then just use a spray bottle and either mist or get a paintbrush and moist the parge coat a little with water. I do about 2-3 feet above where I am laying and it is still moist by the time I get up to that point.

Dry stack or ledge stone is one of the easiest to lay as it does not require spacing to tuck point a mortar joint. Just bridge your stone so that you do not have the end of the stone breaking at the same place(vertically) .

As for the nails. If you have the lathe tight thats what you are after. I usually just tap in the middle of my nailing pattern and if it gives too much just drive another nail in the center. You don't want alot of travel or when you parge and apply pressure it will release after you have passed over it and push away from the wall and let the mortar fall in behind the lathe. Sometime you can't get all the bounce out but you can limit it and be OK.

Did you find an angle grinder and diamond blade. You will need them for both the verticle cuts and horizontal rips (above and below door). Really the only place you will need to cut verticle is on one side or the other(door side or wall side)

Good luck and if you need any help just send me a PM or post.

May 15, 2009, 05:24:37 PM

Thanks for the help. I need all I can get.

Dog · May 17, 2009, 09:40:47 AM

Scott the siding came out so beautiful! That round window and the oriental wood carving really add a nice additional artistic flair.

MountainDon · May 18, 2009, 04:43:13 PM

Can hardly wait to see the stone!

ScottA · May 29, 2009, 03:44:17 PM

I've been swamped with work lately but I finaly got it wraped up. I picked up the last little bit of stuff I needed to finish the water pipe under the house and should have that done this weekend and tested I hope. I'm hoping to put the scratch coat on the walls for the stone monday. The stone should be in some time next week. I'm also going to get the ditch dug for the electrical service and with luck get that done soon too. Once I have everything tested (power and water) I can start insulation. I'm only 6 months behind schedule.

Redoverfarm · June 03, 2009, 06:14:31 AM

Scott it looks as if you got a little spam with your coffee this morning. Let me know how the stone is coming.

June 03, 2009, 07:16:19 AM

Spam is getting ever wierder.

So far I got it off the truck John. lol

I did manage to get the wall behind the stove scratch coated yesterday. Looking at the stone it seems it will be quite a puzzle.

Whitlock · June 03, 2009, 07:34:05 AM

Wow the place is looking nice

Redoverfarm · June 03, 2009, 06:30:28 PM

Scott don't be intimidated by it. Shoot it is just rocks. Just remember some of the basics I went over with you before and you will do fine. Just remmeber two basic thoughts. Cut cultured stone will show and don't let the joints fall on each other on every course to make it look natural. Bridge the joints of the previous course.

ScottA · June 04, 2009, 12:22:53 AM

It's harder than it looks John. I got a few courses done today. Not perfect but I think it will work. I think I'll do better tomorrow.

Redoverfarm · June 04, 2009, 05:53:54 AM

OK get a picture up and lets take a look. You don't have to wait until it is finished. Just a little something I don't think I touched upon and that is to strike a level line every once in a while just to keep it fairly level. You don't have to lay the stone on the line just use it as a guide.

ScottA · June 04, 2009, 04:15:12 PM

Ok John here is what I have so far. I started out just laying straight courses yesterday but after I looked at it a bit last night I didn't really like it that well. So I looked at some pictures this morning and switched to jigsaw mode. I think jigsaw looks alot better but it takes longer to do. I can't belive this all i got done in 2 days.

Hopefully I'll get quicker as the rock pile gets smaller I won't have so many to look through trying to find the right one. I put a 2x4 up on either side to keep my ends straight. They will be removed when I'm done with the wall, hopefully tomorrow. I'm going to Dallas for the weekend so I won't get started outside till tuesday.

June 04, 2009, 04:34:49 PM

Scott looking good. I thought you had the wall built already and was just laying them in between. That is the inside isn't it?. There are a lot of variations you can do but don't do too many standing up or the opposing grout or mortar joint will go several courses without a bridge. You will get the hang of it when you get outside and show your talent. I assume that your flue goes verticle and not into a chimney. I hope so or you covered the thimble up.

ScottA · June 04, 2009, 04:41:20 PM

The flue goes straight up, yep.

Redoverfarm · June 13, 2009, 02:22:04 PM

Scott hows the rock coming? Wondered if you got any of that giant hail damage in Ok City that was on the news.

ScottA · June 14, 2009, 07:23:24 AM

I'm slow John. I finnished the wall behind the woodstove and about a third of the wall outside. Too many things to do this week. I hope to wrap it up this comming week. I did get the plumbing finnished and tested. Today I need a day off.

I'll get some pics up when it's finnished.

Redoverfarm · June 14, 2009, 07:35:53 AM

Scott it is just the learning curve. By now you are probably more comfortable with the process and it appears less daunting than at the beginning. I didn't ask about any recepticles or light boxes on the wall. If you do have any light boxes for entry lights try to pick out uniform thickness stones in that area. It will make the light mounting flanges fit closer to the wall and hang plumb. Sorry if you are past that stage.

You can always use the 4-1/2" grinder w/diam blade to carve out to make it fit. I finally got all my exterior carriage lights mounted. Not that I am ready for them but they were in the way and I kept moving them around. So now they are hung, out of the way and less chance to get broken.