New tools- Sorely tempted

[MushCreek]

The local big box store (orange) has a pretty good promo going on right now, with a decent (25%) discount on power tools and accessories. If you spend $1000, you get $300 off or 30%. Let's see- I need the stand for my miter saw, a good quality circular saw, a framing nailer, a finish nailer, maybe some cordless stuff, too. The way it's worded, from $300 to $599 is $75, from $600 to $999 is $150, and $1000+ is $300. So it would pay the most to just barely break one of the plateaus. The saw stand and circular saw would make $300, add a couple good nailers, and I'd be up to the $600 level. Decisions, decisions. Or should I wait til I actually start my build, and take my chances then? Seems like a pretty good deal. All of the tools I have pre-selected rarely go on sale, and never 25% off. I know my bank account would take about 20 years to pay back 25%! I plan to start building in 2010, and I have the cash in my sock drawer. What would you do?

[Redoverfarm]

Don't forget a couple decent ladders.  One extension 20' and a good 6-7" step for interior stuff.  And then there is a set of Baker scaffolding which is really nice interior for walls and ceilings ($180-200).  That ought to give you the 30% with what you already have picked out.  And don't forget the compressor to run all the nailers with.  Most of the time you can get a combo set compressor included with nailers for about $250-300.

[MushCreek]

I just picked up a nice little Emglo wheelbarrow at an auction. I'll probably wait on ladders til I get up there- I don't have a real good way to haul them 600 miles. I have an 8' step ladder, but I'll need an extension ladder eventually.

[trish2]

If you buy the tools now you can break them in on small projects around your current abode.  That way you will  have all the bugs worked out and your learning curve will be over.  Hence, when you get to the job site you will be able to make the most of your time there.  Also, if there are any flaws with the tools and they have to go back, don't you want to have all that done BEFORE you haul them out to the house you're building???

Anyway, that's the logic my husband always uses on me when he wants new tools that we don't have an immediate need for.

Let us know what you decide.

[r8ingbull]

I would skip the miter saw stand and build a nice cutting plank.  14' long, works much better for trim, and siding, etc...cheaper too.  Framing nailers are nice, but not needed for just one house, plus the nails cost so much more.

I would get a table saw and table top jointer...very useful

My list of 'Must Haves' power tools:
Cordless 18v+ drill
Circular saw
Recip saw

'Very Glad to have them':
Table Saw
Chop saw/Miter saw
Jointer
Jig Saw
Big corded drill
sanders
Hammer drill w/chisel

For building my own and working on my own house, I use the hand tools the most.  I good tool belt, hammer, squares, levels (2',4' and 6'6"), chisels, etc.  I always try to buy the best hand tools I can.  If you are doing vinyl siding, those tools are a huge time saver for me

[MushCreek]

Good food for thought. I like the idea of the miter saw stand for portability. I have the 12" Ridgid slider, and it's a great saw, but very heavy. Ridgid makes a stand for it that folds up and has decent wheels for hauling it around.

I know I can build a house without a nailer, but I need to build a barn, too. I'm 56, so I'm looking for ways to make the work physically easier, and to speed up the process as much as possible. I've used nailers a bit- they're a real time/work savers.

What I have:
12" sliding miter
10" Miter
14" Metal chop saw
Table saw
Sawzall
Jointer
Planer
Generator
Shaper
Jigsaw
Belt sander
Corded drills

I have an old cheap circular saw- that will be my 'roof' saw so I don't drop the good one.

I plan to do a lot with paneling, wainscoting, and beadboard, since I hate drywall. What drywall I have will probably be papered. The floors will be my own red oak form the property. I've found someone to saw it; I need to find a kiln, or make a solar one. I already have a planer.

I generally buy professional tools, since I hate struggling with cheaply make junk.

[glenn kangiser]

For cordless stuff, I have had the Makita 18V LXT tools for about a year and highly recommend them.  The Big impact wrench was what got me started on them.  325 ft lbs and will run about 10 to 15 six inch lags per charge.  http://www.makitafactoryoutlet.com/%5Cmakita%5Cproducts%5CBTW450Z.asp

I started with this kit and added to it - Just ordered the big Rotary Hammer.  The batteries actually hold enough power to do a lot and recharge in 20 to 30 minutes.  http://www.makitafactoryoutlet.com/%5Cmakita%5Cproducts%5CLXT702.asp

I just ordered the big rotary hammer as I want to have it before I finish the job I am on.  http://www.makitafactoryoutlet.com/%5Cmakita%5Cproducts%5CBHR240.asp

I bought from the welding shop locally.

[PEG688]

   #1: I have an old cheap circular saw- that will be my 'roof' saw so I don't drop the good one.

 
    #2:   I generally buy professional tools, since I hate struggling with cheaply make junk.

   #1: They sell add on saw hooks that are quite good and very handy for framing. I couldn't find a image of the type I use , but it bolts on where the top handle connects to the saw motor, it flips down to get out of the way when the hook isn't needed and flips back out to hook the saw safely to any 2by thats handy. About $15.00 around here.

   #2: Thats the way to buy tools, cheap tools just hinder the user ability to do good work. If those abilities are limited to begin with you'll never reach your true potential.

 

 
 

[MushCreek]

After 35 years as a toolmaker, I'm pretty fussy about what I use! One thing is for sure- whatever I build will be strong and accurate.

I know cordless tools are handy, and I plan to buy some, but I've had bad experiences with batteries. I have a Milwaukee 14V drill which is a work horse, but the batteries died after a disappointingly short time. The batteries are so expensive, it's almost cheaper to just go out and buy a new tool with new batteries. Maybe that's what they want you to do LOL!

[MountainDon]

For cordless tools I'd look for a kit that has what you want and make sure the batteries are Lithium Ion. They cut circles around any of the NiCad battery tools I've had.

[MushCreek]

For cordless tools I'd look for a kit that has what you want and make sure the batteries are Lithium Ion. They cut circles around any of the NiCad battery tools I've had.

That's good to hear. I've wondered if the Lithium Ion batteries were worth it or not. I still can't imagine using a cordless circular saw, but I guess they'd be handy to have when you don't want to hook up extension cords for a quick trim job. I've used cordless drills enough to know they're pretty handy. I've always wanted a cordless recip, though, just to take to the junkyard for body panels.

[MountainDon]

I have the Makita 18V circular saw. I cut all the 2x for the floor joists, wall studs, rafters and ceiling joists with it, not to mention trimming the OSB flooring and wall and roof sheathing. Without it the generator would have been running many more hours. It was also easy to handle, especially for anything overhead like trimming rafter tails.

The L-ion batteries seem to offer more torque too. I also have the Makita drill/screwdriver (indispensable) recipro saw, angle drill and jig saw. All very useful. All are short of features compared to my corded tools too. Like the jig saw does not have the sawdust blower I love on the corded saw.

It is NOT as durable as the corded circular saws I have. However, handled without dropping or slamming around it made it through the job intact. I did have a problem with the bearing housing, but the saw in the L-ion kit (green one) has an improved bearing housing. I also used a narrow kerf carbide tipped blade. Made one dull, still using the second one.

[MountainDon]

Thinking back, the only thing I used a corded circular saw for was trimming 4x4 and 6x6 posts/timbers and cutting the Hardie plank siding. I also used the 18V recipro saw to finish the post cuts as the circ blade didn't have the required depth of cut.

[MountainDon]

Oh, and if I had the cash I'd buy the tools on the 25% off.

[John_M]

I have had really good luck at RECONDITIONED tools from the manufacturer.  They still have the same warranty as the new ones!  The prices are considerably lower!

[glenn kangiser]

I have the Makita 18V circular saw. I cut all the 2x for the floor joists, wall studs, rafters and ceiling joists with it, not to mention trimming the OSB flooring and wall and roof sheathing. Without it the generator would have been running many more hours. It was also easy to handle, especially for anything overhead like trimming rafter tails.

The L-ion batteries seem to offer more torque too. I also have the Makita drill/screwdriver (indispensable) recipro saw, angle drill and jig saw. All very useful. All are short of features compared to my corded tools too. Like the jig saw does not have the sawdust blower I love on the corded saw.

It is NOT as durable as the corded circular saws I have. However, handled without dropping or slamming around it made it through the job intact. I did have a problem with the bearing housing, but the saw in the L-ion kit (green one) has an improved bearing housing. I also used a narrow kerf carbide tipped blade. Made one dull, still using the second one.

The green one is a Ryobi, Don, Isn't it?  I had it too - still do but switched up to the Makita for the big impact - then added the rest.

The L-ion batteries are so much better that there is no comparison.  I could not do the steel job I am on now with Ni-cads.    The L-ions last about 4 times longer per charge and charge in 20 to 30 minutes - (also depends on battery charger and state of battery charge).

[MountainDon]

I said Makita    I meant Ryobi.  The Makita is the corded saw I used to cut the Hardie planks.  I have a bunch of other Makita things. BTW, my first rechargeable drill was a Makita 7.2 V about 25 years ago.



Subsititute Ryobi 18V for all my Makita references above. 

[MushCreek]

After doing research all weekend- I'm more confused than ever  The reviews on the Ridgid Miter saw stand are mixed- people either love it or hate. It sounds like they changed the design a few years ago, and the OLD one was the good one! And they don't have the framing nailer I want. I think I'm going to go look at cordless tools tomorrow- the sale ends Wednesday. I may end up with nothing!

[glenn kangiser]

They say it is no longer your father's Rigid. 

They went to lower quality a while back although they still seem to be fair.  Their electric impact worked and held up better than the DeWalt, but eventually I still broke it.

[MushCreek]

The Ridgid stuff at Home Depot is all made in Asia. I have the big table saw, and the 12" sliding miter, and I'm impressed so far. Some of their cheaper stuff is, well, cheaper.

[mountainmomma]

Eli here:
   I have to say the old style miterstand is a little beefier. But the new one has the option of pulling the saw off the stand without tools. Very nice!! It is very usefull. And when I want to move it, it's moved in a jiff, no fuss over wooden sawhorses or unscrewing of boards. And with the help of the ol' lady,we trimmed up 16' long 6" x 6"s. Gotta love that.

[MushCreek]

I really will need a portable stand. Hopefully, the first thing I'm going to build will be a barn. During that build, I'll be living either in a shed, a camper, or the back of my truck! All of the tools need to be put away every night, both because of possible rain and to prevent theft. Once the barn is built, I can set up some stuff in there, but it's too far from the house (100' or so) to haul things back and forth to be chopped. Basically, until the house is dried in and lockable, everything needs to be portable. So a rolling stand is a must. The Ridgid saw I have weighs 86 lbs., which is just too much to set up and take down every day. I have a wheelbarrow-type compressor for the nailers, and my generator has good wheels, too.

As for corded versus cordless- I'll have a temporary power pole, either before or after the barn gets built (probably before) so I could get by without the cordless tools, other than the convenience, which is considerable. From what I've read, the Makita Li-Ion stuff is quite good, esp. if you pony up for the 3.0 ma versions. The drill is $280; the saw another $100. Right now, i'm still researching tools (I have til tomorrow). I'm still undecided on a framing nailer. I'll keep reading reviews.....

[Redoverfarm]

MushCreek I have a Bostich N80SB framing nailer.  Nothing special which uses a 28 deg wire nail.  The nails are reasonable in comparison to some other brands.  Yes it is air powered not fuel cell or battery but it is tough.  Easy to repair although I haven't had to other than an occassional jam ( not often).  I have also used some generic brand nails and shows no difference in preformance.  It will shoot 8 & 10d as well as 16d 2" to 3-1/2".  IMO a good all around economical tool.  Not exactly sure what the cost is now as I have had it for several years. Or should I say several 1,000 nail boxes ago.

This is the one they are showing now.  They are offering a $25 rebate.  I am not sure they even make the one I have anymore.  Just like everything else they have a "New and improved".

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xr5/R-100465407/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Seems like Lowes has the same one for $30 more. 

[glenn kangiser]

I blew up my PC FR350 and didn't want to wait to repair it so got a Harbor Freight $99 one that will shoot all angles of nails with a quick adjustment 21,28 and 30 degree  (as I recall - should be close- ) -great for yard sale nails - full or clipped head.  So far -so good.

[MushCreek]

Well.... the sale ends today, and I got- nothing!  It was a combination of not finding exactly what I wanted, and my own rising doubt as to whether I'll actually ever build there or not. We bought our land two years ago, and since then, everything has turned to manure.  I can't get started until we sell our current house, and real estate prices in FL are dismal. So- rather than run the risk of having very nice tools that I don't really have a use for, I'll just wait until I'm actually ready to get started. I would have saved $150, which compared to the cost of a house, is a very minor sum. But hey- at least we got to talk about tools, and I know now what I want when and if I do decide to go forward with this, so thanks to all who contributed.