Request: Step by Step metal roof installation on 10/12 roof with 4 dormers

sharbin · May 21, 2009, 02:56:22 PM

Hello All,

I was searching for metal roof installers and so far I got 2 quotes (this is after running after them for weeks). Keep in mind that I have 2 dormers on each side of the gable roof. Also please note that I am located in Quebec, Canada:

1.1- 11,725 CAD plus taxes -> approx 13,234 CAD (7,500 labor)
1.2- 13,280 CAD plus taxes -> approx 14989 CAD (Hidden fasteners style) (8,000 labor)

2- 12,420 CAD plus taxes -> approx 13, 910 CAD

I went to the big stores and they gave me pricing around $1800 CAD without the trimming and flashings.

After seeing that difference, I am starting to contemplate ordering and installing them myself. Hence the purpose of this thread.

Can anyone provide a step by step how to install the metal roof with dormers (with flashing and all of that) including how to saftely do it ALONE $:-\$

Thanks a huge lot!
Sharbin

MountainDon · May 21, 2009, 05:15:50 PM

My first thought when I read the topic heading...
"Request: Step by Step metal roof installation on 10/12 roof with 4 dormers"
...was to reply with, "hire a roofer."

Upon reading the content of your info/question, my response is "hire a roofer".
It's a combination of the steep pitch, the 4 dormers (lots of panel cutting) and the alone parts. But that's just me, the guy who hired out his 5:12 metal rood with no dormers at all.

I hope somebody else can come up with something better as far as DIY.

When you are comparing the prices are they for the same gauge material? The big boxes around here carry thinner material than the real roofing suppliers. I'm not sure on the numbers; maybe 29 gauge at the big boxes, and I got 26 gauge.

Also the drip, rake, flashing and cap materials add up in a hurry. There are also rubber gaskets and the screws. It's not fair to compare without those pieces.

May 21, 2009, 06:17:49 PM

Thanks MountainDon on the reply.

In parts 1.1, 1.2 it is the same guy but with different products; the (1.2) with hidden fasteners is a .28 gauge called Heritage series from Ideal Roofing. The (1.1) and (2) are the same product called Americana (http://www.idealroofing.com/pages_english/UL90Ameri-Cana.shtml) also from Ideal Roofing with .29 gauge.

As for the quote that I got from Home Depot, it is the same product from the same supplier. So let's assume that the trimming etc are same price as the sheets which gets us to $3600, which is more than half of what they are charging me for material.

Do you think that the prices listed are fair ones? Note that the cottage is 20x30 1.5 story plan.

Thanks

davidj · May 21, 2009, 06:21:10 PM

Quote from: MountainDon on May 21, 2009, 05:15:50 PM
When you are comparing the prices are they for the same gauge material? The big boxes around here carry thinner material than the real roofing suppliers. I'm not sure on the numbers; maybe 29 gauge at the big boxes, and I got 26 gauge. Also the drip, rake, flashing and cap materials add up in a hurry. There are also rubber gaskets and the screws. It's not fair to compare without those pieces.

Not to mention the cost and hassle of the felt underlay, which I'm guessing the installers will be using and is a real pain putting up by yourself on a steep roof (unfortunately you can't cheat and run it vertically, which would be much easier!). My most serious injury so far was when half a role of felt, and the bits of 2x4 it was sitting on, landed on my head from 12ft up. Feeling very dazed, I was lucky to be able to head over to the neighbors, have a drink and ask them to keep an eye on me for 1/2 an hour or so until I felt back to normal. Suffering from concussion whilst alone and many miles from town is less than ideal, whether you do it the traditional way by you falling off the roof, or the more creative way of finding a way to get the roof to fall on you!

sharbin · May 21, 2009, 06:57:08 PM

Sorry for what happened to you.... I hope it does not happend to me

However, in my case, the people who installed my rafters/OSB already installed the underlayment (it is the same type as the Titanium UDL)

May 21, 2009, 09:04:41 PM

sharbin that does seem to be a little steep. The price not the roof. But I forget you are up north. What would be the American conversion of that amount. The roofing appears to be the standard size and type (36" coverage and 39" overall with 1-1/2" laps per side). That is similar to what I put on mine. My roof was a 10/12 but still workable. But it is not a 1- person job. You need about 4 people to do it right. Two ground crew to cut , pre drill and hand the other two on the roof the sheets and let them screw it down. If you have underlayment (OSB) then attachment is a littler easier than purlins. I predrilled my screw holes at a designated spacing (in the flats).That way all the screws line up Horizontally and make a lot nicer job. Nothing worse than trying to get a screw started while working off of roof jacks or chicken ladder. And you really don't need them close together. I have seen some people put screws ever 12". It is a waste of screws, possibility of future leaks. I put a row at the bottom and then every 36" toward the top. No need to put that many in the top as the ridge screws will go down through the sheets as well.

As far as the dormers they are basicly no difference than the straight run roof except for careful measuring and cutting out the panels and flashing out the sides/front and the small valleys above. But if you haven't done any of that before it may be daunting. Careful measurments are the key to make everything meet where it should. Getting it squared to begin with is one of your major obsticles. After that ever panels locks into the previous with just a little adjustment verticle to keep them aligned to the bottom.

Have you looked into finding someone local that is familar with metal roofing. One experienced person and a couple laborers should be able to get the job done. Even if you had to shell out $1-1.5K for help it would beat the alternative.

I really wouldn't want to say whether you could or could not do the job. That is a question you could probably answer yourself. Wish I could be of more help but you are too far away. If you get in a bind or need a little moral support just yell.

I really thought I would go a little beyond some of the replys as I felt that you really wanted to know a litle about it. Not that this will enable you to do it (unless you choose) but to give you some idea what you are in store for.

MountainDon · May 21, 2009, 09:58:52 PM

1.00 CAD = 0.882345 USD

FWIW, we had our suburban home re-roofed in 26 gauge ribbed metal a couple years ago. It is only a 4:12 pitch gable roof. There is a small half octagon bumpout on one end. The house itself approx 1600 sq ft plus an attached 2 car garage. The are two dormer like roofs, one for the garage and the other for a room added on the back side.

The roofers removed the old shingles and installed Titanium UDL. They installed the 26 gauge metal with ridge vents, valleys, rakes and drip edges. They purchased all the materials and did all the labor. We paid then something like $US 7500 ($CDN 8500)

Of course we are suburban, no real travel time; 40 minutes maybe, from the roofing supplier to here for example. The roofers were drawn from our large pool of Hispanic roofing talent.

sharbin · May 22, 2009, 01:34:44 PM

Thank you Redoverfarm for the solidarity

and for the info.
Thanks MountanDon... your numbers help in getting the cost into perspective...

I guess the most important challange for me is not the cutting etc... rather how to proceed and how to setup a platform for me to stand on and with what corner to start from and where to step... basically the logistics of how to install.

Thanks

phalynx · May 23, 2009, 09:32:45 AM

The quote we had received for roofing ours was US $8000. Ours was a 10/12 with no dormers on a 20x34 sized house. That was with material. The cost of the material was $1300. That $6700 difference made us do it ourselves. It was a bit stressful but we also didn't have OSB down. We used purlins and were able to working from the attic up.

May 23, 2009, 08:40:48 PM

Quote from: davidj on May 21, 2009, 06:21:10 PM
Quote from: MountainDon on May 21, 2009, 05:15:50 PM
When you are comparing the prices are they for the same gauge material? The big boxes around here carry thinner material than the real roofing suppliers. I'm not sure on the numbers; maybe 29 gauge at the big boxes, and I got 26 gauge. Also the drip, rake, flashing and cap materials add up in a hurry. There are also rubber gaskets and the screws. It's not fair to compare without those pieces.

Not to mention the cost and hassle of the felt underlay, which I'm guessing the installers will be using and is a real pain putting up by yourself on a steep roof (unfortunately you can't cheat and run it vertically, which would be much easier!). My most serious injury so far was when half a role of felt, and the bits of 2x4 it was sitting on, landed on my head from 12ft up. Feeling very dazed, I was lucky to be able to head over to the neighbors, have a drink and ask them to keep an eye on me for 1/2 an hour or so until I felt back to normal. Suffering from concussion whilst alone and many miles from town is less than ideal, whether you do it the traditional way by you falling off the roof, or the more creative way of finding a way to get the roof to fall on you!

I talked with the guy that supplies the box stores Thursday. He says that they run the felt vertically all the time with no problems on 10/12 and 12/12 pitch roofs. Lower pitches require an ice dam.

Mike

phalynx · May 23, 2009, 10:16:31 PM

My felt is vertical... No problems

sjdehner · May 24, 2009, 06:13:13 AM

My wife and I installed metal roofing without any previous experience on several gable roofed buildings on our land about five years ago.

We purchased 26 gauge standing-seam snap-lock panels from a Canadian roofing supplier (we lived outside Vancouver, BC). The panels were all factory cut to length so there was very little cutting to do on-site. What cutting we did do was to cut the panels to fit around objects, and flashing and end pieces.

This sort of roof required moderate skill. We had no previous roofing experience at all and it worked out well. Aside from finessing the panels into place on the roof and screwing them down there was just not much to it.

For tools we used a cordless driver, a rubber mallet (to "snap" the panels together), a circular saw and a ladder. If we were to do it again we'd invest in a pair of electric shears since cutting the metal with a saw is unreasonably loud even with hearing protection. They are not cheap but we would sell them after the job was complete.

Most importantly, we'd invest in a harness rather than using a rope (like we did) as a fall-arrest system.

And some (rented) staging would be handy too.

If we had dormers to confront we'd still go for it and then hire on some help if we got into a snag.

Whichever way you choose, we wish you the best of luck!

Shawn.

Okie_Bob · May 26, 2009, 04:51:08 PM

First, I'd get material bids from several suppliers. Down here we have a chain of stores called Metal Mart and another called Muellers (probably mispelled) and some single store places...ie Eagle Metal. Prices will vary WIDELY from one to the other. Just be sure you are getting comparable quotes, that is, the same exact bill of material. You can literally save hundreds of bucks.
Second, don't even try to do it by yourself. You really need some helpers with a 10/12 pitch roof or you are asking for trouble.
Last, get the sheets pre-cut by the supplier. Yes, you can cut it but, they will deliver it pre-cut to length at no additional cost. And get it delivered unless you have a good double axle trailer at least as long as the cut sheets.
I never heard of running the felt vertically. Why would you consider doing that? The purpose is to drain water that might get under the metal sheets and I don't see verticle lapped felt doing a very good job of this. Also never did any predrilling. You buy self taping screws with the material, two types, one for lapping and one for not. They come with a rubber gromet already installed on the screws and you should get a magnetic nut driver that fits in your cordless drill that makes life easy for you.
My two cents worth.
Okie Bob