Loft Flooring ?

[peteh2833]

In the 20x30 1 1/2 story, if you wanted to use 3/4 to 1" rough cut plank flooring, what distance should the loft joists be??? Thanks

[glenn kangiser]

I'd keep them at 24" or less - 24" will be quite solid though - from my roof design.  2x will span 4' generally.

[MountainDon]

Q:  What are you using for the loft joists? Size?

[peteh2833]

I'm using 4x8x10 rough cut from an amish mill near my camp. They are only spanning 10 feet since I'll be using a 2 6x12x16 beams down the center. The beams will be supported by 3 6x6x8 posts. All rough cut lumber. Pete

[MountainDon]

Related info...

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=1064.msg8375#msg8375

Depends on the decking too

[John Raabe]

The flooring designed for open beam floors is 2x6 T&G decking (1-1/2" finished thickness). This will lock together into a single layer floor and can span up to 48" between supports when used for a loft.

You should not use 3/4" or 1" material with butt edges as a single layer flooring. It would however be fine as a second layer on an underlayment. Then the structural span would be limited by the underlayment (usually 3/4" or 1-1/8").

Before plywood and OSB builders used a shiplap sheathing laid diagonally for the subfloor. This was usually 3/4" finished thickness and it would span 16" and support a 2nd layer of finish flooring (usually 3/4" hardwood or fir). In some cases this shiplap may have spanned 24" (lofts??, certainly in attics). I don't have any span charts that go back that far.

[peteh2833]

Ok thanks. Does the the 2x6 have to be T&G or can it be standard 2x6 boards??? Do you know if the 2x6 T&G is available at Lumber yards or do I need to find it somewhere else? Camp is in North Central Pa. Pete

[John Raabe]

No, it must be T&G for structural decking. This is a standard availability product in the West.

[peteh2833]

Ok. I'll look back east and see if I can find it. Pete

[MaineRhino]

On my loft floor we will be using 2x6 T&G V-Match with the V visible from below. It will be stained first, then installed. That's the plan for Sunday, pics to follow.....

[peteh2833]

Thnaks for the info. I'll be looking forward to your Pics. I hope to get the walls up soon and then onto the roof. I want to get it dries in by winter but time is working against me!!!! Pete

[peteh2833]

I found that the local lumber yard has the 2x6 T&G flooring for the loft for 2x6x16 are $11.95 and 2x6x14 are $8.95. Sounds like a good price to me.

[glenn kangiser]

Excellent price.  .64 bf for the short   .75 for the longer ones.

[peteh2833]

Thats what I thought. I'll be heading out there tomorrow to pick it up before someone else gets it. Pete

[peteh2833]

Well I pick up 61 2x6x16 T&G and 31 2x6x14 T&G. Total cost was $1066 with tax. Not bad for the pile of lumber I now have in my gargae at home. Hopefully I'll be at the point in a month where I can install them. As for installing them, what do you guys recommend for nailing? Face nailing, nailing through the tongue etc... Let me know which way is the best and easiest way to do it. Pete

[Redoverfarm]

peteh2833 I installed approximately 750 sq ft of 2" T&G.  I had prefinished mine prior to installation due to it being an open beam ceiling. I don't recall whether you are using this approach or over 2X joist.  I used the Tounge to affix mine to the 4X8 beams.  A standard floor nailer is not designed to use with 2" (1-1/2") material.  There is not enough nail to hold.  So I used 2-1/2" -3" deck screws through the tounge and into the beams. It really wasn't that much harder and I feel that it will hold a little better.  I used a joist puller and a scrap of T&G to pull the flooring tight.  This approach was abandoned as it began to mar the finish on the beams.  I ended up using 4' & 5' bar clamps once I face nailed the beginning row. 

I had posted in Considerations Olympic of some tips and procedures to help her in the installationof her T&G floor.  They are listed at the following. I am sure she wouldn't mind you taking a look.

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=4499.msg59702#msg59702

[peteh2833]

Thanks. It will be an open beam ceiling and the joists are 4x8 rough cut lumber. Pete

[Redoverfarm]

Then I would definitely pre finish at least the ceiling part(V-groove) as it will be a real PIA to be able to finish it later. 

[MountainDon]

I strongly second the pre-finishing. One other reason is to get the color all over the surfaces. If you apply a color finish after the T&G planks are installed there is the chance that un-colored wood will show when the wood shrinks a little.

[Redoverfarm]

To 2nd what don said make sure you finish the tounge all the way to the outside edge.  If it shrinks that is where the white wood will show. 

I also prefinshed the top of the floor part to protect it while constructing.  I will go back and touch up any scratched areas and put a couple more coats of poly to finish it out. Not really that crucial (If one stain is used for both sides)but my floor was Walnut and the ceiling a pickled white and I didn't want any stain making it's way through the cracks to ruin the ceiling finish.

[MountainDon]

Wood also likes to be coated on both sides at the same time. It lessens the woods desire to cup as one side dries.

[peteh2833]

I think I am just going to Poly both sides so I will probably do it after it is installed and later on down the road when I have time to work. Might be a good inside winter project. Pete