Gable wall

busted knuckles · August 21, 2016, 12:55:32 PM

I am building on top of 2 built up beams, on top of a pier foundation, I have a question about the gable wall ends. Do I put more joists at the ends, to support the gable wall? I am building with a ridge beam, so there will be a column at each end, going to the foundation. 1.5 stories.

PEG688 · August 21, 2016, 01:28:42 PM

You'll need to be clearer on what you are doing , you say "Building on top of two built up beams" , then you say column at each end to foundation , Then 1/5 stories??

I'll stab at this with:
If you have a concrete foundation and are using posts to hold up the ridge beam , the posts need to be fully supported to direct bearing , so you could have a post from the top of you PT mud sill that goes to the under side of you lower wall plates , then a box sill that your joist connect to. You'd infill the space directly above the lower post with solid wood , either a chunk of the post , or a section of beam "as a header".
Then you'd frame floor two (main level) similarly , although IF it's a open living room without a floor or loft , the post on the main level would be continuous from lower plate to under side of the ridge beam , you'd have direct bearing to the foundation.

If you're concerned the gable wall will be bouncy , there are ways to build a ledge across this wall to stiffen it laterally.

But with what you've given us to work with my answers could be way out of line .

If it's a five story building (unlikely 1/5 means five stories, most likely a typo or just lack of clear wording) , my answers are not correct.

August 21, 2016, 01:37:22 PM

Thanks, Peg. I added the info in original post. Its a pier foundation, a built up beam on each row of piers. Here are some pics I just posted in the owner/builders section. http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=14441.0

PEG688 · August 21, 2016, 01:56:33 PM

Nice steel work !

I'd bring the posts right down to the beam top , thru the sub-floor , cut a 1 1/2" lap joint on the outside of the posts , so it engages the box sill. Run the post wild at the top until you get up there to set the ridge beam.

Get some Simpson coil strap to connect the post to the built up beam on the inside , rout a groove into the 6x6 ridge post (I assume ) so the coil strap don't stick outside of the framed wall on the interior run the coil strap 30" up the inside of the post , thru the floor pad out the built up beam to except the coil strap, or just bend the strap into the built up beam , so it goes across the bottom of the beam , fill all holes with Teco nails .

When you sheath the exterior make sure the sheathing ties across the post face , so NO seam on the post , bridge across the post , to form a 4x8 "gusset " at the floor joist to wall connection , that along with the strap on the inside will positively attach the post to the box sill and the built up beam .

I'd have used PT lumber on the built up beam , but you are past that point now. Never hurts to use PT where things will be exposed to the elements. Or close to the ground.

Do you have plans , or are you winging it? In John's plans he'd have spec'ed out the connections I would think.

G-luck!

busted knuckles · August 21, 2016, 02:12:29 PM

Thanks for the response. I will have to read that a few times. I did not go with pressure treated as I am 12" off the ground for the beams. Its pretty arid here. I also covered the area under the joists with plastic sheet. I plan on leaving the area open underneath. That said, I am not that far along, I could replace with PT if you think its necessary. Thanks for the complement on the steel work. I drew up some design ideas. Not a plan exactly... floor plan.

August 21, 2016, 02:27:40 PM

Quote from: PEG688 on August 21, 2016, 01:56:33 PM

Get some Simpson coil strap to connect the post to the built up beam on the inside, rout a groove into the 6x6 ridge post (I assume ) so the coil strap don't stick outside of the framed wall on the interior run the coil strap 30" up the inside of the post , thru the floor pad out the built up beam to except the coil strap, or just bend the strap into the built up beam , so it goes across the bottom of the beam , fill all holes with Teco nails .

I am having trouble with this, I cant see it. Can I run 3 or 4 joists (built up beam) under the gable wall? Then the column for the ridgebeam sits on top of that. Then a post can go to the concrete pier under neath it to complete the run to the foundation.

PEG688 · August 21, 2016, 02:42:39 PM

Skitch drawing , the post once notched engages the box sill and joist, blocking between rim and first joist inboard.

busted knuckles · August 21, 2016, 03:05:31 PM

Ok, I see that. Thanks. I will now sully the board with my "artwork". Will this work? There is not a beam (yellow in your print) but a post. Can the 4 joists be included in the column. Will it be a bad idea to have them in compression as shown. It looks better if you squint.

PEG688 · August 21, 2016, 03:27:03 PM

Yes that's it, I wrongly assumed your built up beam ran along all four walls, so yes you drawing is right , bring the post down to the concrete soon tube pier. Cut the lap joint in the post to engage the joists, which might be pushing the code that says posts shouldn't be notched more than 25% of there width , you'd be 1/4" over the 25 % rule , Which I wouldn't stress over , BUT if you are worried about that take the 1/4" out of the rim joist , and lessen the notch in the post.

August 21, 2016, 03:56:16 PM

Ok, good to hear. Thanks for your help.

PEG688 · August 21, 2016, 05:47:41 PM

Thinking about this a bit more you could hang the rim joist on a HUC212 hanger , no notching of the post .