10x12 Retreat Cabin

Started by MikeOnBike, June 02, 2010, 12:58:08 AM

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MikeOnBike

NOTE: This thread has been split off from a discussion of an earlier MikeOnBike project, the 20x32 1-1/2 Story On The Rocks (Hope this isn't too confusing! 1-7-11 John Raabe)

Sunday was the start on the fence.  Monday was a start on the shed.  I got John's 'Little House Plans' and we are going to build a 10x12 shed for storage and a place to sleep until the main cabin is closed in.  10x12 shed, 12/12 roof, 4'x8' porch on the 10' end.  The holes are down 2ft. or until I hit pretty solid rock.  I'll use 8" sonotube for the pier with 3 pieces of rebar running from the bottom to the top and cap it with a Simpson PB44 or similar to hold the 4x6 beam.

Question.  Front to back elevation drop is about 12". Highest to lowest is 16".  With the piers set in the hole almost 2ft. and connected directly to the beam with a bracket set in the concrete do I need any kind of bracing?  I'm keeping the entire foundation as low to the ground as possible.  The beam will be pressure treated and only about 4"-6" above the ground on the high side.

This next weekend I'll get the piers poured.  The weekend after I hope to get the deck on.



MikeOnBike

#1
It rained last weekend so no work on the mtn.  This weekend I was able to get the piers set for the 10x12 shed.  8" dia. pier, three pieces of rebar, 6" j-hook for the bracket.  Water levels are great.

The next trip up is 4th July weekend.  I hope to have the shed shell complete.  It might only have tar paper for siding and roof but we can start sleeping in it and lock up some tools.




We also got the outer gate in and locked.  Yeah, the road slopes that much, the posts are straight.  We will probably put some gravel on the low side eventually.



John Raabe

RE: Your roof diagram above.

Yes, you can just bring the rafter down to the wall plates and nail it off to the rafters (as shown in the diagram). The knee wall would be optional but makes finishing the ceiling easier. Sloped ceilings coming to a point are not easy work on. :P

If you platform frame the upper floor and then attach the rafters to the deck use a metal strap or anchor between the rafter and the deck/ rim joist. This would give you a bit more ceiling height.

You should be fine with the pier layout you suggest. At any rate, you probably don't have enough height to do much X-bracing.

PS - diagram out the rafter layout in section if you don't do the balloon framed higher wall shown in the plans. It does make the rooms narrower and the stair headroom needs to be checked as you mention.

None of us are as smart as all of us.

Freeholdfarm

Mike, I'm curious -- around how much does land go for in that area?  I'd like to find a big chunk like that (with water, LOL!  That's excellent that you have a spring!) to share with my family like you are doing.  Have one sister in Wyoming, brothers in Alaska, another sister and myself in Oregon, so the area where you are would be pretty central to all of us.

Kathleen

MikeOnBike

Kathleen,

Land prices really vary.  I'm aware of land going for $250-$2000 an acre.  There really isn't much available private ground around us.  Most is BLM, in fact we are surrounded by BLM ground.  I think there is more private land north of the Snake River.

The $250 an acre land a friend got at auction.  He now owns the top of a mountain.  No trees and I don't know how deep he had to go for water.

There is a fair amount of recreational land between Boise and McCall.  I don't know but I have heard rumors that the prices aren't too bad with the current real estate low.

The cheap land has no trees or water, the expensive land usually has both.  Probably pretty universal as land goes.


MikeOnBike

#5
We got up to the property Sat. evening.  A day later than planned so we were only able to work two days instead of the three I had hoped for.  We built from the piers up to the rafters. 

This is basically a 10x12 version of John's 10x14 from his 'Little House Plans' kit.  We are building the gable roof so it can have a sleeping loft.  It will be nice to get out of a tent and under a roof.  It froze both Sat. and Sun. night.

I used foam for the floor insulation and sealed it with expanding foam for the small gaps against the joists.  It was more expensive than fiberglass but I don't have to protect the underside of the deck.  We went 16"OC with the rafters because of the snow load and it's only a couple more rafters on each side.

The windows are 3x3 and there will be a 2x2 window in the back of the loft for more ventilation.  The door is 36" so we can get stuff in and out easily.  There will be a 10x4 porch w/roof across the front.











325ABN

Are the cages full of rock on the sides of your gates used for anchors?

MikeOnBike

Quote from: 325ABN on July 07, 2010, 10:21:19 AM
Are the cages full of rock on the sides of your gates used for anchors?

Yes, they are called Stone Bucks or Rock Jacks.  The soil is generally very shallow on our property, sometimes none at all.  It is very difficult to set a traditional H-brace anchor.  The owner and fence builder also prefer the aesthetics of the stone bucks.  There will be 25-30 of them by the time we finish fencing the 80 acres with 1 1/2 miles of fence.  I think they hold about a ton of rock.  They are built with 4 t-posts driven into the ground and then wrapped with no-climb horse wire.  The fence wire is attached to the t-post on the far side from the direction it is headed.

MikeOnBike

#8
We finally got back to the mtn. this last weekend and were able to put in another day on the shed.  This is going much more slowly than we had anticipated.  It has been a very busy summer with many distractions.  Hopefully we can have this shed finished by the end of Labor Day weekend and get the next one started so it can be completed before winter comes.



MikeOnBike

#9
Back to the mtn. for a few more days.  This time we closed in the gable ends, installed the door and three windows and the small deck.

We are not finished by Labor Day as I had hoped.  I think one solid weekend and we could have the roof and siding on.  My helper won't be available for two weeks so I'm going to start on the next shed at my location 150' up on the ridge next weekend. 



MikeOnBike

#10
In late Sept. we were able to get the soffit, fascia and one side of the metal roof on.



This last weekend we completed the roof and most of the siding.  There is just the trim and the paint to finish.  We got heavy rain on Sun. night just hours after the ridge vent was screwed down.  The four of us were very glad to be warm and dry for the night.



rick91351

Great!  It is definitely nice to have a place where you can get in and stay dry.

Do you get many snowmobiles through that area or does it just get pretty snow bound?

Have you done anything with your solar plans yet?     

Were you able to get your piers in for your next building?  Have you thought about doing SIPs at home in the winter time and taking them up to save some time?

 
Proverbs 24:3-5 Through wisdom is an house builded; an by understanding it is established.  4 And by knowledge shall the chambers be filled with all precious and pleasant riches.  5 A wise man is strong; yea, a man of knowledge increaseth strength.

MikeOnBike

#12
The shed did get pretty wet a couple of times this fall but this was the first time we stayed in it and it rained.

There is a county road about a mile from the property that gets some snowmobile traffic in the winter.  We are about 10 mi. from the summit where all regular vehicle traffic gets stopped for the winter so only snowmobiles make it in this far during the winter but I think they stay on the main roads.  No groomed snow trails around here. 

I have a 45 watt Harbor Freight kit that I'm going to use at my shed when I get it built in the spring.  It worked very well for keeping my RV batteries topped off this summer.  We may install a large setup at this shed for the main cabin for next spring but will probably just rely on the generator for construction and put in the solar for it the following year when it is habitable.

Much to my disappointment I didn't get a chance to start on my shed.  I only have the holes in the ground but no piers.  The plan is a 10x12 with 3/12 shed roof engineered for the record 12 water inches that we have received and a 6x10 deck with pergola out front.  I'll start another thread for that with info on my cabin plans in the spring.

I need to do some more research on the SIP idea.  I understand how to build them but I don't know if the foam will blow my budget.  I could also prefab the 4ft stud wall sections to save some time too.  I will probably save some time by prefabing the outhouse out of 4ft' stud panels and precutting the floor joists to 117".

MikeOnBike

#13
My brother made it up to the cabin this last weekend and put some paint on it.  It looks a bit orange but it is a nice 'terra cotta'.  We still need to put the siding on the rear gable end.  All of the window and corner trim has been pre-painted but needs to be installed.  We should be able to finish all that and maybe the stairs if the weather cooperates this coming weekend.




The loft is 9'-5" wide by 8ft. deep.  The bed is a king size sleeping bag on a queen size air mattress with a nice wool quilt.  The headroom from the loft floor is ~5ft.  The window is 2'x2' for some light and ventilation.



nathan.principe

Its really coming together! your almost dine with the exterior it looks like

MikeOnBike


Oh, I really, really hope so!

MikeOnBike

#16
My buddy and I made it up the mtn. for one last weekend of work on the shed.  The weather on Sat. was overcast but a comfortable work temp in the 50s.  The weather on Sun. was steady rain, really lousy for working outside.




We insulated the loft/attic/rafter space.  It stopped the breeze from coming in the soffits and kept the shed from getting really cold until just before daylight.  Full insulation with OSB paneling is planned.



The heavy cloud cover made it dark quite early on Sun.  We were able to put up the rest of the siding and trim the door, windows and shed corners.  Nolan caulked the seams until the rain started washing the caulking out.



The rarely seen backside of the shed.  The gable end received tarpaper, siding and window trim.

It was just too wet and cold to put any more paint on the shed.  The finish coat and stairs for the deck will have to wait until spring.  No more building trips this year.  It is time to start planning the main cabin.

duncanshannon

Hi!!

[cool]

I am exploring the idea of taking on the challenge of a 20' wide universal cabin some day.  I need some practice  / learning and want to build a 10x12' shed for my home... just like what you built!

Can you help me understand what you needed to do to modify the 10x14 little house plans to make it 10x12? (that is what you did right?)

Thanks-

duncan
Home: Minneapolis, MN area.  Land: (no cabin yet) Spooner, WI area.  Plan: 20x34 1 1/2 Story. Experience Level: n00b. 
Build Thread: http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=10784.0

MountainDon

If you have the 10x14 little house plans all you do is make it 2 feet shorter. I don't mean to sound flippant; changing length is easy. Changing width (wider) gets more complicated.

Place the piers in the same locations but reduce the beam overhang to one foot on each end.

It looks like one floor joist would be deleted. They are placed on 16" centers so the 14 foot length has one "odd" size one anyhow. The 12 foot will still have one that is an odd size. It'll all work out.

Window and door placement is all owner builder adjustable.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

duncanshannon

great! that should be manageable... thanks!

Home: Minneapolis, MN area.  Land: (no cabin yet) Spooner, WI area.  Plan: 20x34 1 1/2 Story. Experience Level: n00b. 
Build Thread: http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=10784.0


MikeOnBike

Yes, that is what I did.  Don is correct.  The base up to the rafters is just a slightly shorter 10x14. 

The 10x14 is a shed/flat roof and I need a loft so we went with a 12/12 gable for the space.  There are a lot of rafter calculators out there.
http://www.construction-resource.com/calculators/roof-frame.php
http://www.blocklayer.com/roof/gableeng.aspx

The loft is really easy to do and the pictures probably explain that.

I posted a pretty complete materials list here.
http://www.small-cabin.com/forum/6_617_0.html

Net_Eng

Quote from: MountainDon on January 06, 2011, 02:59:18 PM
If you have the 10x14 little house plans all you do is make it 2 feet shorter.

Why Change the from 14' to 12'?

I am thinking of doing the exact thing this year on my property. Having a place to stay on the property will give us more time there and dont have to $$$$ for hotel rooms.

Thanks

MountainDon

Quote from: Net_Eng on April 12, 2011, 09:53:03 AM
Why Change the from 14' to 12'?


Possibly to meet a 120 sq ft rule?  ???   
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Squirl

I can't say why he went for 12', but I can say why I did.  Most lumber comes in 8, 10, 12, and 16 foot lengths.  Also plywood comes 4x8, so it was cost effective with less waste, less cutting, and less work to go with 12' instead of 14'. I built mine with hand tools, so the less cutting the better. The 14' length  takes advantage of most jurisdictions of having a 144' square foot maximum without a permit.

Net_Eng

oohhhhhhhhh!!!!! Thats makes sense.

I think I will do the same...


Squirl, how much you spent on yours to complete?