Author Topic: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY  (Read 277682 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Redoverfarm

  • Journeyman
  • *****
  • Posts: 6,781
  • Applachian Mtns, West Virginia
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #175 on: November 11, 2010, 02:29:15 AM »
I guess I am partial to "oil based" when it comes to stains.  I have found better penetration with oil into the woodgrain.  As long as you choose a good namebrand it should work fine.  Which ever you choose I would recommend spraying the stain and then back brushing to distribute it evenly.  I used Olympic Semi-transp siding stain on the cabin and it has weathered well.  T1-11 is a little more porous than planned lumber so anticipate using more stain to get the coverage.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_194622-86-79250A/01_0__?newSearch=true&catalogId=10051&productId=1056281&UserSearch=194622&Ntt=194622&N=0&langId=-1&y=16&x=41&storeId=10151&ddkey=http:SearchCatalog

Additionally if you were decided to add a porch and have exposed rafters/purlins the stain that I used also tinted the underside of the metal roofing to match the exposed wood.  You can see how it turned out here  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=3613.msg61206#msg61206
« Last Edit: November 11, 2010, 04:11:22 AM by Redoverfarm »

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #176 on: November 11, 2010, 06:53:34 AM »
Good Idea Redoverfarm, That looks great!
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline MushCreek

  • Journeyman
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,112
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #177 on: November 11, 2010, 12:51:57 PM »
I've always wondered what would happen if you built a shallow trough, stood the T1-11 on end in the trough, and poured some wood preservative (or motor oil) in and let it soak up for a day or 3. It always seems to be the bottom edge that fails, so really soaking it in a preservative might help protect the most vulnerable area. I plan on building my barn with the stuff, so I need the best process. I'm going to go up about 5 courses of block, then conventional framing covered in T1-11. I'll let the sheathing hang over the edge of the block so it can dry easily.
Jay

I'm not poor- I'm financially underpowered.

Offline MountainDon

  • Administrator
  • Journeyman
  • *****
  • Posts: 16,813
  • Jemez Mountains, NM; that's pronounced HEY-mess
    • My 15.75 x 30 Jemez Cabin
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #178 on: November 11, 2010, 01:47:55 PM »
It would would prevent problems with insects and fungi. What is the main problem though? Scott described de-lamination and preservative won't help that, will it? De-lamination as I've seen it is because of too much moisture or inferior gluing.  ???
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn’t mean it is good design.

Offline muldoon

  • Journeyman
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,619
  • Muldoon, TX
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #179 on: November 12, 2010, 06:49:59 AM »
I have t1-11 on my house.  The house was built in 76, and some sections of the t1-11 are around 15-20 years.  I have replaced a few sides of the house.  Here is what I have learned about it.

Most deterioration comes at the bottoms.  Water splashes on the ground and gets on it.  Or the edge is too low and wicks water from the concrete.  The point being the lower edges stay wet and the upper section stays dry.  After about 2 years of this it delaminates on the bottom.  Then it just starts to rot. 

The next common trouble I have is on my west side, I have 10' of brick wall, and the t1-11 sheathes the gable end of the roof, so its 10 feet up.  Problem there is the sun (uv light).  Over the years of wet dry shrink swell, crack etc, this section has also delaminated at the bottom edges.  It's not moisture but the act of the wood swelling and shrinking that has runined it.  The other side has a nearly identical setup but faces east and has a large oak tree that shades it.  It has held up fantastically.

So I would not sheath in t1-11 if I could avoid it.  If I had to, I would find another material to finish the bottom 2-3 feet - brick up, stone, etc.  I would try to have nice roofline overhangs with wide soffits to shield water away, and I would keep a close eye on sides seeing alot of sun.  For finish, a few coats of quality primer on all edges before a quality exterior paint.  In my experience the stains look better but dont hold up near as well as good paint on top of good primer. 

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #180 on: November 20, 2010, 04:05:13 PM »
Im a currently working on a 2" bump-out to break the contrast from the future T1-11 siding install.
we are thinking about stucco for this lower section.



"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline Don_P

  • Journeyman
  • *****
  • Posts: 4,471
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #181 on: November 20, 2010, 05:34:33 PM »
It looks like you need to slit the housewrap and tuck a new layer of some kind of weather resistive barrier under the slit and then down over the new bumpout. Right now any leaks in the upper portion are directed behind the lower section.

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #182 on: November 20, 2010, 05:38:59 PM »
Thanks Don_P that is what i have in mind, I havnt completed both sides yet and I am looking for the best thing to wrap for stucco.
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline Mrdecatur217

  • Junior Member
  • **
  • Posts: 39
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #183 on: November 21, 2010, 06:34:38 AM »
wow that looks awesome very well done son,. it will help in the long run ,.,.dad

Offline dug

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 762
  • SW New Mexico
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #184 on: November 21, 2010, 08:19:58 AM »
That will look nice and definitely add extra life to the siding.

Offline MarkyMark

  • Newbie
  • Posts: 1
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #185 on: November 21, 2010, 10:29:07 AM »
Everything looks great. Congratulations! Do you have any idea on your costs so far? I'm thinking about doing a 20X30

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #186 on: November 21, 2010, 01:39:09 PM »
Thank You all!
Everything looks great. Congratulations! Do you have any idea on your costs so far? I'm thinking about doing a 20X30
Not sure exactly how much but ~ 14,000 not including the front patio door or t1-11
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #187 on: November 21, 2010, 01:59:01 PM »
my wife is set on stucco for the blue section of the cabin, if I cover this synthetic felt with tar paper or stucco wrap, will the synthetic felt cause problems for the stucco? moisture issues or anything?



"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #188 on: November 26, 2010, 04:01:35 PM »
got the patio door mostly installed

will post better pics tomorrow
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #189 on: November 27, 2010, 02:51:47 PM »
door install complete, the interior is unfinished so every touch leaves a mark.
the door is an Anderson 4' door.



"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline Redoverfarm

  • Journeyman
  • *****
  • Posts: 6,781
  • Applachian Mtns, West Virginia
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #190 on: November 27, 2010, 03:09:58 PM »
Not real sure if someone has touched on the subject of the bump out lower portion of exterior wall as it pertains to weatherproofing.  I thought I might suggest that you make a weather proof transition at that point.  Either use a piece of "ice guard" or "flashing"  ( broke or bent to accommidate the angle) tucked under the upper housewrap and allowed to extend over the bump out portion.  The way it appears now it will allow moisture to enter between the wall and the bump out and could lead to framing rot of the bump out material.  Nice job overall.  What is your choice of color on the exterior ?

Offline Mrdecatur217

  • Junior Member
  • **
  • Posts: 39
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #191 on: November 27, 2010, 03:41:16 PM »
when do we move in? i can burn the inside walls and put on satellite ,.just punch a hole in your roof and add screw nails might leak alittle but hay we will live in it till that happens,.,.greet job.,,. dad

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #192 on: November 27, 2010, 10:24:43 PM »
Thanks all,
Redoverfarm, not real sure on color for the exterior yet, the lower 2 feet will be stucco though.
the top of the bump out has a 10 degree angle down with 30# synthetic felt tucked under the house wrap ~2".
I plan on putting a 2nd layer on, 15# tar paper tucked under the house wrap.
also I would like to put a cedar 1x4" cap on the top of the bump out, I think putting a flashing extending above the bump out is a great Idea!
Thank You!
 
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #193 on: November 28, 2010, 12:42:17 PM »
final part of the bump out is finished less the flashing

the house wrap overlaps the felt

"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline Mrdecatur217

  • Junior Member
  • **
  • Posts: 39
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #194 on: November 28, 2010, 12:48:24 PM »
Excellent son ,. you did a great job,. are you going to extend something above the door to drop the rain further away from the door or have big gutters?

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #195 on: November 28, 2010, 12:56:17 PM »
Excellent son ,. you did a great job,. are you going to extend something above the door to drop the rain further away from the door or have big gutters?
when its all said and done we will have the wrap around porch!
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #196 on: November 28, 2010, 01:16:40 PM »
the house from the main road, hard to see!

"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #197 on: January 10, 2011, 01:08:05 PM »
If we get a little sunshine here soon, I am going to start the trim and siding.
originaly I was going to use T1-11 siding, I bought the T1-11 then sold it and now I will use a 2x6 log siding for the entire cabin.
For the trim I will use 2x6 spf, MountainDon said a neighbor used 2x6 trim for his place and it looked good.

Any suggestions for type of nail? ring shank? screw nail?
I will be using my nail gun.

"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Offline MountainDon

  • Administrator
  • Journeyman
  • *****
  • Posts: 16,813
  • Jemez Mountains, NM; that's pronounced HEY-mess
    • My 15.75 x 30 Jemez Cabin
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #198 on: January 10, 2011, 02:29:31 PM »
I do like ring shank or spiral for things I don't want to come apart easily. I used galvanized ring shank for much of the Hardie Plank siding on ours. They have much greater pull out resistance than common nails.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn’t mean it is good design.

Offline astidham

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 916
  • Skiatook Oklahoma
Re: OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY
« Reply #199 on: January 10, 2011, 02:55:20 PM »
I do like ring shank or spiral for things I don't want to come apart easily. I used galvanized ring shank for much of the Hardie Plank siding on ours. They have much greater pull out resistance than common nails.


Thanks MountainDon, did you use a coil nailer or a inline?
A buddy of mine said he would loan me a coil nailer, not sure if thats better.
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

 

Templates: 5: index (default), Ads (default), Portal (default), Display (default), GenericControls (default).
Sub templates: 12: init, html_above, adsheaders_above, body_above, adsindex_above, portal_above, main, portal_below, adsindex_below, body_below, adsheaders_below, html_below.
Language files: 3: SPortal.english (default), index+Modifications.english (default), Ads.english (default).
Style sheets: 1: portal (default).
Files included: 38 - 1124KB. (show)
Cache hits: 12: 0.00542s for 40,800 bytes (show)
Queries used: 29.

[Show Queries]