Author Topic: 1 and 1/2 Story 20x30 Alberta Cottage (Read 111371 times)

Alberta Curt · « **Reply #25 on:** April 03, 2008, 07:43:27 AM »

A couple of questions:

1. Do the drawings provided require an approved Engineering stamp?
2. My intent was to build an outhouse on the my property. Apparently this this isn't an option in Alberta anymore. Any of the users have experience with bathroom systems? Given the remote location of the cabin, it isn't going to be practical to install an entire septic system.

MountainDon · « **Reply #26 on:** April 03, 2008, 10:24:38 AM »

If you're taking the plans to your building department their stamp of approval is all you need as a rule.

If no building dept, no permit, no inspection, then no stamps I would think.

If an outhouse is no longer allowed then check into a composting toilet, either a DIY variation or a commercial one like the SunMar. Mind you you're looking at $15K, round numbers. They have AC models, DC models, No Electric models and combination models.

Is this place going to be used with regularity? How often, for how long? Porta Pottis are another thing suitable for infrequent use. Or like Hal Nash did... a low water use RV toilet that dumps into the wheeled RV portable (wheeled) dump tanks. That like the porta potti has to be hauled to an approved RV dump station.

Do a google on composting toilet and you'll lots of info.

mark.cheryl · « **Reply #27 on:** April 03, 2008, 03:46:34 PM »

You should be able to call the county and find out what they will allow for sewage options.

BTW: I talked to a home inspector in Alberta this week and he said 12' deep for the posts! They didn't put a "bell" on the bottom though like the Bigfoot tubes. Another option he told me about is a "screw pile" or "helical pier" foundation. Apparently the Alberta building code got tougher this year, so you'll need to get very specific details before you start digging.

glenn kangiser · « **Reply #28 on:** April 03, 2008, 08:11:48 PM »

Welcome to the forum mark.cheryl

BiggKidd · « **Reply #29 on:** April 04, 2008, 01:58:49 PM »

Hi All,

I'm new here but thought I might be able to add to this post. I do concrete piers for a living. It seems cheaper and easier than most of the ways I have heard described here. I do not know if it is acceptable for a house. So you would have to check that your self. If I can figure out how then you will see pictures of my work. Did I mention its cheaper too?

Thats just a basic 12" augur hole code here requires 18" deep I usualy go 20". The empty holes have to be inspected before you fill them with concrete.

After the inspection we string line the pier locations and cut all the forms. You want to push 3" or 4" of form into the concrete in the hole.

That helps keep the pier strait when pouring. You can also see how we set up the string lines to keep the rows strait.

Then you fill up about 1/2 way and get a check on the height. I use a grade rod taped to a tamper and a builders level for this.

Once they are close I fill them the rest of the way and get them perfict. Its best to have it a little tall than a little short. Its easy to tamp the wet pier down. Its not so easy to pick the form up when its full of wet concrete.

Now you remember what I said about cheaper? Well the sono tubes (forms) are $12 ea. for a 48" section you cut to size. I use a 18V saw to cut the form tubes.

It takes 3 80lb. bags of quickcrete to make a pier 36" tall 18" below grade and 18" above grade. Thats about another $12 anchor bolts have gotten outragous though. The last ones I bought were almost $3 ea. Thats for a coated 12" X1/2" anchor. If you mix your own concrete from portland sand and gravel its even cheaper. Here we don't use rebar unless the piers get tall over two feet out of the ground.

These pier jobs that I do are for storage buildings. I can't see any reason it wouldn't work for these cabins. I have done piers for upto a 16'X32' building like this.

Hope this might help someone.

We recently bought 36 ac. in central Va. and hope to start on our DIY home soon as we get enough space cleared. I have a wife and two daughters so a little more space would be nice. We live in an old sears house 840 sqft. now.

Larry

Redoverfarm · « **Reply #30 on:** April 04, 2008, 02:09:59 PM »

BiggKidd I have also used 5 gallon blastic buckets (botom cut out)instead of sono-tubes for things a little closer to the ground. Just cut off the bucket after set. I guess I am old fashion but I always stick a little rebar in for good measure. If it is not too nosey where in Central Virgina are you planning on building?

BiggKidd · « **Reply #31 on:** April 04, 2008, 02:15:55 PM »

Redoverfarm,

Lunenburg Va. We are moving from Richmond.

Five gallon buckets work fine, but the inspector isn't quite so happy to see them. LOL

Larry

Redoverfarm · « **Reply #32 on:** April 04, 2008, 02:32:27 PM »

Have to look that one up. I am on the Wv/Va line near Hot Springs. But that's on the other side. Somewhere around Fredricksburg to Warrenton I would imagine.

BiggKidd · « **Reply #33 on:** April 04, 2008, 02:39:51 PM »

Redoverfarm,

I don't want to hijack this thread. Lunenburg is about 70 miles south west of Richmond maybe 30-35 miles from Kerr Lake (buggsisland).

Larry

MountainDon · « **Reply #34 on:** April 04, 2008, 03:30:58 PM »

The tubes work fine for a cabin.

Thanks for posting all the photos, we love photos.

Here in NM when running the inspection gauntlet we need a rebar X or # in the bottom, with the bottom of the hole either 16" square or 18" round, 8 inches thick. Then 2 pieces of rebar vertical in the column.

I am one of those choosing to use a poured footing in the hole bottom and then build the column from dry stack concrete block and fill the blocks with concrete as there is no way to get a transit mixer up those roads. So I'll be mixing Quikrete bags, probably by hand, although I may take the portable 3 cu ft mixer. Haven't decided. $:-\$ Takes more water to clean out the mixer drum than the wheelbarrow.

Thanks again, hope to see more from you.

glenn kangiser · « **Reply #35 on:** April 04, 2008, 04:26:58 PM »

Nobody ever hijacks a thread here, Larry. We just deviate from the topic a bit for a learning experience.

Welcome to the forum and thanks for the illustrated tutorial.

BiggKidd · « **Reply #36 on:** April 04, 2008, 05:02:37 PM »

Moutaindon & Glenn,

Thanks for the warm welcome. I was just thinking it might help someone in the future. With building codes changing all the time and being different for other buildings and areas I almost didn't post.

I wish it would work for what we want to build, but realy want a basement.

Guess I need to start a thread. But we are no where near ready to start building. Only have about 1/4 acre cleared so far. Only 9.75 acres to go.

Larry

glenn kangiser · « **Reply #37 on:** April 04, 2008, 05:06:43 PM »

General information helps all if they are in non- code areas and helps the ones on code areas where that system is accepted.

If a bigger footing was needed, then all that would be required is a bigger hole with a wood frame to support the Sonotubes. I also like the re-bar even if not required.

MountainDon · « **Reply #38 on:** April 04, 2008, 05:30:54 PM »

Quote from: BiggKidd on April 04, 2008, 05:02:37 PM

Guess I need to start a thread. But we are no where near ready to start building. Only have about 1/4 acre cleared so far. Only 9.75 acres to go.

We even like photos of land being cleared.

glenn kangiser · « **Reply #39 on:** April 04, 2008, 05:47:15 PM »

Just as well start a thread on it, Larry so you will have it documented in a place you can show to your friends along with sharing on the forum..

BiggKidd · « **Reply #40 on:** April 05, 2008, 08:39:09 AM »

Don, Glenn,

I spent two hours doing my own thread last night with lots of pictures and lost it when I went to post.

I will try again.

Larry

Redoverfarm · « **Reply #41 on:** April 05, 2008, 10:53:49 AM »

Larry I found it easier to post smaller to intermediate size and then just do it a little more often. Been there and done that on a larger post. Doesn't seem to come out the same the second time as you had written it the first. Hey there is no limit on the # of post. That way you don't leave anything out. If you did you can go back to that post and modify it with what you want to change or add. Isn't tech great.

John

BiggKidd · « **Reply #42 on:** April 05, 2008, 03:35:01 PM »

Hey Thanks John,

I will try again when I have a couple hours free.

Larry

MountainDon · « **Reply #43 on:** April 05, 2008, 04:31:54 PM »

Yep, depending on the reliability of your connection smaller is easier at times. It's no problem uploading in several separate posts. Sometimes it's better to do a new post rather than make large edits, like adding lots, to a previous post. I say that only because the system will report a new post as something new, for those watching for new posts. When an edit is made the system does not recognize the change as new content for "new post" tracker doesn't put up the flag.

Just FYI, doesn't really matter much.

glenn kangiser · « **Reply #44 on:** April 05, 2008, 09:36:39 PM »

Quote from: BiggKidd on April 05, 2008, 08:39:09 AM

Don, Glenn,

I spent two hours doing my own thread last night with lots of pictures and lost it when I went to post. I will try again.

Larry

Yes -- smaller posts and adding to them is the way to go. Posts are limited by the system to around 5000 words I think so work and build on them a bit at a time. Looking forward to seeing more.

Alberta Curt · « **Reply #45 on:** April 08, 2008, 04:04:18 PM »

My plans for the 1 and 1/2 story don't show a ridge board on the trusses. Is this correct, or is it assumed there is a ridge board?

BiggKidd · « **Reply #46 on:** April 08, 2008, 04:51:25 PM »

Hi,

I realy don't know the answer to your question since I have never seen the plans. But I can't remember ever seeing a ridge board on a truss style roof. It would seem almost impossable. The trusses are built before they are put on the walls to use a ridge board you have to build the rafters in place to my knowledge. But like I said I am not sure hopefully someone else can help better.

Larry

Alberta Curt · « **Reply #47 on:** April 08, 2008, 05:00:08 PM »

Thanks Bigkidd. The only question I have then is how they are kept in place. My plan only show it being held in place with H-10 ties. I know I'm just an amateur, but it doesn't seem very sturdy.

Redoverfarm · « **Reply #48 on:** April 08, 2008, 05:30:06 PM »

Alberta Curt I concur with Biggkid as with "truss" there is no ridge. To install you determine the layout on your top plate. Scab a support(verticle) to hold the first in place after setting to plumb. Attach the second truss and with the use of top of the truss flush brace to the first truss set. So on and so on. I usually brace on both sides of where the ridge would be halfway down from the top to the plate. You can scab anything on for braces to the top of the truss(ie; 1X, 2X's). I usually put the braces log enough to handle 2-3 trusses then set another truss on your lay out as before and add another scab brace. If you are going to be some time before sheeting I would double the braces to two on each side 1/3 the distance apart and use longer braces to incorporate 4-6 trusses. These are removed when your sheeting goes on. They are just temporary to hold them in position and prevent the wind from knocking them down.

MountainDon · « **Reply #49 on:** April 08, 2008, 05:39:15 PM »

I don't know if this will shed any light or confuse, I believe those plans have an option for owner/site built heavy duty trusses, not your typical store bought manufactured and delivered 2X truss. I have no idea other than I think I picked that up someplace. At any rate one of John's plans has that.

Since you have the plans a question in the Plans Support section will catch John's eye sooner than a query any place else.