Author Topic: Dogtrot at Hightop (Read 629370 times)

Pine Cone · « **Reply #950 on:** October 16, 2011, 08:22:06 PM »

Looks like it was a great party. Sorry I missed it, but you're just a few too many states away.

Everything is looking great. I love the porch swing!

Redoverfarm · « **Reply #951 on:** October 17, 2011, 01:16:17 PM »

PC maybe someday you can make it out to "gods country" and join in on what I invision will be an ongoing event. Actually there are two swings at either end. They are stained the same color as the rest of the trim but the species of wood (oak) makes it appear lighter.

Rob_O and UK4X4 just like everything else there is always something associated with good in a negative light. Being from WV I know this first hand and have learned to look over the shallowness. Rob_O there is great musicians here. The other Banjo and Fiddle player's pictured with my son has been playing for 50 years and is considered a "Master" in old tyme music. The Mandolin player(not pictured) annually tours Ireland, Scotland and Australia and other as well. His brother (unable to attend this year) who plays some with my son taught "claw hammer" banjo in Spain last year for three weeks. So even if you are from the hills you can succeed.

Sassy it was a great time. As for the food there was an abundance. When I invited everyone they would ask what they could bring and my reply was nothing that I had taken care of everything. Of course being country folks they wouldn't dream of showing up without some contribution. So in essence almost everyone brought something. Considered icing on the cake if you will.

Just to be neighborly I invited a gentleman from Orlando,FL who recently bought a place nearby and is remodeling it. He said that is the second invitation he has received this year from perfect strangers and people in WV are nothing like FL. Just so happens that he is a Old Tyme & Bluegrass fan as well. I can see he will fit right in.

Gary O · « **Reply #952 on:** October 17, 2011, 02:48:12 PM »

Supurb
Just supurb
I can hear the strings come alive
I can't play a lick, but my one good ear can sure enjoy good sounds.

ChuckinVa · « **Reply #953 on:** October 17, 2011, 04:52:19 PM »

I can attest to the good times had by all. Had a great time and got to play a little music too! Redover had quite a spread and we met lot's of nice folks. I appreciate the invite. Maybe next time I'll get into some of that tuning oil... It was a nice way to showcase a really beautiful place. Even with all of the pictures that have been shared during this build it is hard to do it justice. Really a masterpiece of craftsmanship.

Redoverfarm · « **Reply #954 on:** October 17, 2011, 05:42:12 PM »

Thanks Chuck. Glad you had a good time. Wish you could have stayed longer. Maybe next time.

Redoverfarm · « **Reply #955 on:** October 24, 2011, 07:04:31 AM »

Added a little something to the cabin. There was an open area above the microwave so I decided to make a wine rack. Now all I have to do is find some glasses and a few more bottles.

ChuckinVa · « **Reply #956 on:** October 24, 2011, 01:26:36 PM »

where are the places for the quart jars?

Redoverfarm · « **Reply #957 on:** October 24, 2011, 02:07:07 PM »

In that High Priced refrigerator. Unlike wine it is better if chilled.

Redoverfarm · « **Reply #958 on:** October 27, 2011, 04:04:40 AM »

Well I am undecided about winterizing Dogtrot. I will certaining drain and winterize the water but what to do about the electrical system. My options are to allow the system to operate as "is" during the winter which will mean without any electrical loads present (except inverter drain 6-25 watts daily) or to completely shut down the system. Without any power drain I can only estimate that it would be several days if not a week or so that the generator would engage to recharge. If I completely shut down I will attain a full SOC in the batteries and disconnect them from the inverter. But in doing so I must also remove the generator battery which obtains the charging current from the battery bank. I have never known anything to freeze in the basement ( location of battery bank) so I think the batteries will be OK.

The water system although I can protect the first & second(loft) by allowing a couple gas heaters to remain on. The crawlspace is where I would get a potential freeze.

I guess I am fortuneate that I only live a short distance away and can adjust according to the inclimate weather(temps).

Any idea's or suggestions

MountainDon · « **Reply #959 on:** October 27, 2011, 05:39:33 AM »

Here is where one PV module would be real handy. You'd shut down the inverter and the PV modukle with its charge controller would maintain the batteries at peak charge all winter long. That's what our system does.

If you simply let the electrical sit there with the genny set to come on if the battery SOC drops that would work too, but you would not have the float charge that keeps them right up.

If the battery in your truck doesn't freeze these won't either IF their charge is kept up

As for water... personal choice. I drain because I don't want to burn propane in the heater all winter.

Redoverfarm · « **Reply #960 on:** October 27, 2011, 06:13:37 AM »

Quote from: MtnDon on October 27, 2011, 05:39:33 AM

Here is where one PV module would be real handy. You'd shut down the inverter and the PV modukle with its charge controller would maintain the batteries at peak charge all winter long. That's what our system does.

If you simply let the electrical sit there with the genny set to come on if the battery SOC drops that would work too, but you would not have the float charge that keeps them right up.

If the battery in your truck doesn't freeze these won't either IF their charge is kept up

As for water... personal choice. I drain because I don't want to burn propane in the heater all winter.

Don the float charge is built into the charging cycle. Bulk, Absorb and then Float.

Yes the PV would be nice and it might be worth considering in the future but then again the Inverter and Generator would have to be shut down completely to keep from coming on or draining the starter battery down when the PV would take their place.

MountainDon · « **Reply #961 on:** October 27, 2011, 08:28:31 AM »

Quote from: Redoverfarm on October 27, 2011, 06:13:37 AM

Don the float charge is built into the charging cycle. Bulk, Absorb and then Float.

Yes the PV would be nice and it might be worth considering in the future but then again the Inverter and Generator would have to be shut down completely to keep from coming on or draining the starter battery down when the PV would take their place.

But it doesn't supply a daily float like a PV module will. It only floats when the generator runs.

You shouldn't need to shut down anything on the inverter unless I'm missing something. A PV module(s) and separate charge controller would charge the batteries whenever the sun shines. If the cabin sits with no power being used the cycle goes something like this. The sun comes up, the panels see sun and produce power, that wakes up the charge controller 9we're talking good stuff, Outback, Xantrex), the charge controller goes into bulk, then absorb for the programmed time and then float. When the PV output falls to very low the charge controller eventually goes to sleep. That daily cycle keeps the batteries up. As long as the charge in the batteries is above whatever level you have the generator to auto start the generator will never run. That is unless there is a programmed schedule like for the generator to run every Sunday or whatever.

I don't know how the generator starter battery is connected to the system, but there are devices available that can be used. Solar Converters makes a charger that can use 48 VDC and put out 12 VDC and could be used to keep the starter battery full.

Rob_O · « **Reply #962 on:** October 28, 2011, 11:56:44 AM »

Generators are just a bad way to charge batteries. In float stage the batteries are taking very little charge while the generator is still using a lot of fuel

You can get a pair of these

http://www.solarblvd.com/p2566/Kyocera-210-Watt-24-Volt-Solar-Panel-KD210GX-LFBS/product_info.html

And one of these

http://www.solarblvd.com/Charge-Controllers-PWM-Charge-Controllers-Xantrex-Charge-Controllers/c6_48_104/p794/Xantrex-C40-40A,-12-48V-Charge-Controller/product_info.html

And keep the batteries happy while using zero fuel. Next year you can add another set of batteries and another pair of panels.

That controller even has load diversion, which you can use to run electric heat strips and maybe keep the place a little warmer in the off season.

MPPT controllers really are better, but if you want to keep the initial cost down that one will get you through a few years of adding panels 2 or 4 a season.

Redoverfarm · « **Reply #963 on:** October 28, 2011, 02:32:38 PM »

Rob thanks for the information. I will keep it bookmarked for later reference. Right now you can say I am sort of like a child learning to crawl then walk.

Starting off small. Evientually I will probably incorporate some solar to the system as I learn more about alternative energy.

Rob_O · « **Reply #964 on:** October 28, 2011, 05:42:33 PM »

Quote from: Redoverfarm on October 28, 2011, 02:32:38 PM

Rob thanks for the information. I will keep it bookmarked for later reference. Right now you can say I am sort of like a child learning to crawl then walk. Starting off small. Eventually I will probably incorporate some solar to the system as I learn more about alternative energy.

That's why I suggested a small system that has plenty of capacity for upgrading. For ~$1500 you can buy the parts I suggested plus all the wiring, connectors and conduit to have it up and running. Oversize the wiring to accommodate future upgrades and add a little every year until the sound of your generator breaking the mountain silence is a distant memory

ChuckinVa · « **Reply #965 on:** October 29, 2011, 03:35:47 AM »

Quote from: Redoverfarm on October 27, 2011, 04:04:40 AM

Well I am undecided about winterizing Dogtrot. I will certaining drain and winterize the water but what to do about the electrical system. My options are to allow the system to operate as "is" during the winter which will mean without any electrical loads present (except inverter drain 6-25 watts daily) or to completely shut down the system. Without any power drain I can only estimate that it would be several days if not a week or so that the generator would engage to recharge. If I completely shut down I will attain a full SOC in the batteries and disconnect them from the inverter. But in doing so I must also remove the generator battery which obtains the charging current from the battery bank. I have never known anything to freeze in the basement ( location of battery bank) so I think the batteries will be OK.

The water system although I can protect the first & second(loft) by allowing a couple gas heaters to remain on. The crawlspace is where I would get a potential freeze.

I guess I am fortunate that I only live a short distance away and can adjust according to the inclimate weather(temps).

Any idea's or suggestions

I have a solution. I will pack my bags and stay the winter as long as you can keep that road clear.

And keep settin those pallets of wood on the front porch.

Redoverfarm · « **Reply #966 on:** October 30, 2011, 07:43:05 AM »

Went up to check on the cabin this morning. With just a dusting (3-4") of snow it was apparent that I needed an ice bar to prevent the heavier snows from tearing off the gutter. I placed an order on Friday and they should be in on Thursday. So if the weather holds out I may get them installed the last of the week or the first part of next week. Somehow I think the window of oppurtunity on the outside work is quickly closing.

Canvasman · « **Reply #967 on:** October 30, 2011, 12:27:35 PM »

John, looking at pics of kitchen. How did you attach island to floor? Also, did you cut tile around where cabinets were to be placed? Or tile whole floor and set cabinets on top of tile. Why did you choose ditra over hardie board, under tile? I am debating 1/2 inch plywood and ditra or hardie board then tile.
Thanks
Eric

Redoverfarm · « **Reply #968 on:** October 30, 2011, 03:31:21 PM »

Eric I completely laid tile over all the kitchen floor before setting the cabinets. I used 2X4 cleats on each end of the base cabinet which I secured to the tile via long deck screws into the subfloor (1/2 ply and 3/4" Advantex). I used a mason bit to drill through the tile and mortar for the anchor screws. The cabinet bases were secured to those via deck screws. Base molding then hid the screws at the bottom of the base.

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=3613.msg91199#msg91199

The reason that I used Ditra was two fold. One being that I was border line with deflection and I figured that if I had some slight movement that the Ditra would be more forgiving. Secondly was the ease of installation. Ditra requires no mechanical fastners and the tile can be laid immediately after installing the Ditra without any additional cure time. The Ditra is a little more expensive but a lot easier to work with and absorbs floor movement better.

Depending on the span of the area I would check the deflection. Seeing that I used 1/2 marble it was greater than regular ceramic tile. I originally had spanned 16 feet with 2x10's which was insufficent. I later added a 4X16 Glulam mid span to decrease the deflection.

Redoverfarm · « **Reply #969 on:** November 04, 2011, 03:40:36 PM »

Spent the day putting on my Witches Hat.

. This is a name given by a metal roof manufacturer because the profile closely resembles that of a Witches Hat. Basicly a snow/ice guard for metal roofs. It was sold in 10' lengths and is color matched to your roof color. From all appearences I think this will work. It beats the alternative of individual "snow birds" which will cost $ 6-12 each. With 110 feet of guttering this could get expensive. The Witches Hat cost $13 for a 10 ' section. It is mounted on the rib portion of the roof with two individual screws top and bottom. I used some of the low profile screws that I had left over. I really like these in comparison to the hex head normally sold to install metal roofs. They are # 10 -1-1/2 color matched with a # 20 Torx recessed head. Their projection is minimal which helps if you have leaves and pine needles which like to hang up in the regular screws. I have about 40 feet more in the back and it will be finished.

Although it appears different in color it is the same as the roofing it is just reflecting the light at a different angle.

A picture showing the projection off the roof.

Profile

Low profile metal roof screws

These are really strong once you have them attached to each rib. In fact if I have any left over I think I will double them together and attach them in sorter sections to form a ladder to get up to the flue for cleaning. Actually they would probably hold your weight even mounted single fashion.

glenn kangiser · « **Reply #970 on:** November 04, 2011, 05:53:27 PM »

Good idea, John.

ben2go · « **Reply #971 on:** November 04, 2011, 07:15:58 PM »

The pic below is how they are done here except the ones I see look like a saw blade tooth with the point facing up to the ridge.

Redoverfarm · « **Reply #972 on:** November 10, 2011, 12:07:34 PM »

Well I finished the "witches hat" snowguard. I also fabricated a ladder of sorts to gain access to the flue top for cleaning. I had debated about where to locate the stairs. The back would have been the ideal location but because of the valleys they would have been staggered and probably harder to navigate not to mention I didn't have enough material.

I showed him the pictures of the ladder and his reply was "in the front" which was my initial thought as well. I hope that it does not distract too much from the appearence. But like other aspects of the cabin that I wasn't fully confortable with these will pass as well from my short term memory to a forgotten one.

The steps are the snowguard which I doubled the thickness to make them a little more beefy. I would imagine that just a single layer would have worked but I had the material . The steps are 20" wide and spaced 20" apart which is evenly spaced in the area from the bottom of the roof to the ridge. I had debated on installing the snow guard on the porch roof. But given it is above an unheated space and the pitch is around 3/12 I really don't think it will cause much of a problem slidding. If it does I can add it later.

The only other major project which I have remaining is the railings on the outside and inside. I have been looking for a tapered tenion cutter which I imagine will be my next purchase sometime after Christmas unless Santa finds it first.

MountainDon · « **Reply #973 on:** November 10, 2011, 12:24:04 PM »

That all looks very nice!

CjAl · « **Reply #974 on:** November 13, 2011, 01:58:32 PM »

that generator you switched to. is that the ecogen model? is that the only model that will auto start off the invertor?

i was looking at them but they are about twice as much as the same wattage in a regular standby unit.