Author Topic: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA  (Read 95119 times)

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Offline peteh2833

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #75 on: October 23, 2008, 02:03:35 PM »
Thanks. I got the front finished and all the Titanium Felt on both sides. I was 1 piece short but I wasn't buying another roll of 250 feet for $145. Here are some pics of the progress.







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Offline Redoverfarm

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #76 on: October 23, 2008, 02:25:37 PM »
Pete not to sound critical but you have to remove the walk cleats you have nailed on the roof.  The water will dam up behind and then run in through the nail holes.  When you take them up just drive a button nail close to the hole so the button cover the cleat nail hole. Same hole won't work as the shank on them are smaller than 16d.

I did mine with cleats but started at the top and worked down slipping each course up under the previous.  So I just kept moving the cleats down the sheeting to avoid leaks.

Makes you feel a sigh of relief knowing that it will shed water and not ruin now.


Offline peteh2833

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #77 on: October 23, 2008, 03:44:46 PM »
I thought of that after we left. I did the one side from the top down because we worked the one side up and over the top. I did what you said, tucking the next layer up under the previous. It will have to wait until next weekend. Hopefully it won't get too wet from the nail holes/cleats. Pete
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Offline peteh2833

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #78 on: October 25, 2008, 02:54:15 PM »
Well I ordered my metal roofing and all the trim yesterday. It will be ready next weekend. So hopefully I will be putting it on in a few weeks. I also picked up the front door, 4 windows and some other small stuff but it still cost an arm and a leg. Oh well.....
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Offline glenn kangiser

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #79 on: October 26, 2008, 11:12:03 AM »
See if you can make payment after the installation, Pete. Some of that stuff will be very hard to install with only one arm and one leg. [crz]
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Offline ScottA

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #80 on: October 26, 2008, 12:57:27 PM »
Are you going to connect the new cabin to the old one?

Offline peteh2833

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #81 on: October 26, 2008, 03:37:41 PM »
Glenn, that's a good one. ScottA, we will be leaving it seperate. We will be using the new camp and the old one will be storage or overflow when we have a large crowd up there. Thanks Pete
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Offline glenn kangiser

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #82 on: October 26, 2008, 03:41:39 PM »
:)
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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Offline peteh2833

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #83 on: November 08, 2008, 05:56:38 PM »
I went up to camp on Thursday and got alot done. I got the OSB finished, the Typar on (I was short a roll), the front door on and 2 windows in. Now I can lock the place up !!!!!! I also went and picked up the metal roofing. Good thing I got it water tight since we had 10" of snow last week at camp. Here are some Pics. Also, can anyone tell me how the installed the ridge cap on their metal roof ? What I mean is after they got the panels on, how did you get to the ridge to install the cap??? Pete













« Last Edit: November 13, 2008, 01:20:24 AM by peteh2833 »
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Offline Redoverfarm

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #84 on: November 09, 2008, 04:07:37 AM »
 peteh most of the time it is just straddle the ridge sitting and work it to one end.  If you have a tractor and a ladder you can lay it up the roof for access and to work from .  Either way someone will have to be on the ladder to get started to get it positioned right on the end. It should just fit on the ridge.  Just be carefull not to put too much weight at one place because it will bend. 

You can use roof jacks also.  Just use the screws that was in position for the roofing through the jacks.  You can work the ridge  from one side.  When done throw away the screws and replace with new ones when you take the jacks off.  I always take duck tape and tape the bottom of the jacks so it will not scratch the roof.

Offline peteh2833

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #85 on: November 09, 2008, 05:54:21 AM »
Thanks for the info Redoverfarm.
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Offline glenn kangiser

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #86 on: November 09, 2008, 06:26:24 AM »
I have built temporary scaffolding (staging)to get a platform right below the eaves, one side attached to a wood block on the side of the house - the other to a leg making the handrail and going to the ground - about every 8 or 10 feet. You can do the whole side or just a section at a time to use less lumber.  I generally use screw nails - maybe 5 per connection but long strong enough screws and or a couple small lags with holes pre-drilled used as needed could make it easy to move also.



Put the platform on it then you could put a baseboard to keep the ladder from running away and tape a padded 2x4 to it to lay on the roof or sheeting.  then you can work the sheets and the ridge cap.

Add safety railing and more boards and screws or nails onto the staging as needed - sketch is for illustration purposes only.

Sorry about the crappy sketch - did it iin a hurry in Paint.
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Offline Redoverfarm

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #87 on: November 09, 2008, 07:53:48 AM »
Peteh with two set of jacks you could probably do what you want to do.  Setting one set at one end 2-3' from the ridge (horzontal) and the other set at the other end the same. Then bridge between the two sets for the third section.  I don't recall the exact length but with 2X8 on each end (maybe 10'-12')then double thickness (2X8)in the middle toe nailed to the roof jack boards at both ends.  That would give you 36' more or less.  You could adjust the length with the length of jack boards.

This is basickly how I did mine w/exception that I had to build a bridge/working platform to hold the stone and mortar.  If you cannot use a ladder to lay against the roof you could install all from one end of the ridge with ladder access from one end by installing the roof jacks while sitting on the ridge and moving from one end to the other.  A little more trouble but doable.  With roof jacks I usually put two screws in each which would mean that you would have an extra screw in the roof at all the jack locations but would not be that noticable.  The reason I say throw away the old screws is that once you use them for the jacks the gasket is trash and you want a new screw in their place.

If you go this route you would have no problem feeling comfortable and working with the ridge from them.





Offline sharbin

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #88 on: November 09, 2008, 08:21:55 AM »
Hi Pete,

 you are moving really fast... very nice fine job.

I want to ask you by how much did you extend the gable ends (i.e. the Barge rafter) and by how much did you extend the rafters at the eaves?

Thanks



Offline peteh2833

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #89 on: November 09, 2008, 09:04:50 AM »
The gable ends are extended 12" at each end. The eaves are also 12" over hangs and I plumb cut them. I will be adding rough cut for the facia boards and then rough cut lumber for the sofit with channel vents. Any other ?'s just ask. Thanks for the compliments. Pete
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Offline peteh2833

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #90 on: November 23, 2008, 08:29:57 PM »
Have a couple new questions.
1st ?   If i'm going to leave the collar ties exposed and run my ceiling material all the way up to the rigde do i use the insulation baffles from the sofit all the way to the ridge? I will be using sofit channel vents and a ridge vent.

2nd ?   Any suggestions on what type of nails or screws to use on the 2x6 TG loft flooring???

Thanks Pete
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Offline Redoverfarm

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #91 on: November 24, 2008, 01:25:59 AM »
Pete anyplace you are going to use insulation in the ventilation area you will need baffles to prevent the insulation from closing off the air flow.

I used 3" deck screws on mine.  One being I didn't have a finish nailers with long enough nail. Second is that most of the time the boards have to be pulled and drawn down and the nails will not hold.  Just  put them in at a 45 deg angle (for 4X8)  to floor joist. If you are using lighter stuff you may have to adjust to 2 to 2-1/2" at a different angle

Offline peteh2833

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #92 on: November 24, 2008, 01:58:20 AM »
Ok, thanks. For 2x8 rafters can I use thinner insulation so it won't fill the whole rafter or should I use baffles all the way up? Pete
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Offline Redoverfarm

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #93 on: November 24, 2008, 07:22:13 AM »
Pete the R-19 is 6-1/2", R- 21 I believe they make it in 5-1/2".  So given the baffle thickness either would work but not give you what you actually need in the ceiling.  It should be a R-30 which is 9-1/2" for a 2X10 rafter.  You can increase the R-19 & R-21 by using rigid foam board and make your own air chase.  By mailing 3/4" or 1" cleates to the roof side of the rafter on each side of the cavity and installing the rigid you will increase some 5-10R value depending on the type of foam you get. I had done this before and it works just as well.  Time consuming vs. raft-R-mates but workable.

Irregardless of what thickness insulation you put you still need the baffles.  I think I paid about $.48 a piece for 2'X4' sheet.  If you have 16"OC you can seperate them to work in 16 OC rafters to give you 8 lin ft per sheet.  It will compress your insulation by 1" but not real substantial. 

Since your's is like mine I went with the R-19 as it will be seasonal and not lived in the year round in cold weather.  It was a trade off on putting extra width rafters and insulation that I really couldn't justify.

And yes to the baffles all the way to the ridge.  If you don't and push the insulation tight at or near the ridge it will close off your air flow.  By pushing the baffles against the ridge the air once it reaches the ridge (sheeting cut out by 1" on each side) it will flow out.  You need to remove that 1" or the ridge vent is useless.  Make any sense.

Offline peteh2833

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #94 on: November 24, 2008, 08:49:06 AM »
Yes. I already left the OSB 1.5" short at the ridge for that purpose. I knew that I would need something all the way to the ridge. I used 2x8 rafters not 2x10. I'll check Home Depot today for the baffles. Thanks. I'm heading to camp this weekend. I'm going to try and get the sofit and facia done and get the wood stove installed. If there isn't to much snow I might even try to start the metal on the roof. Right now there is about 15" of snow on the ground. The rain should melt some of it today but they are supossed to get more. Pete
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Offline Redoverfarm

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #95 on: November 24, 2008, 09:02:41 AM »
pete if it is very cold I would not put the metal on even if you can bare it.  The roofing contractor that helped with mine said that he will not put it on if the temp is below 40F.  Believe it or not that it does expand and contract just like the expansion joints at the bridge approaches.  So if it is contracted and screwed down tight when it gets warm it will expand and may cause some small buckling.  I think you put Titaninum on if so it will weather OK until you get a warm snap(hopefully).

I didn't work today as I took my son hunting on opening day.  Started freezing rain so we are now hunting from the house.  Did pretty good yesterday that way but the big one didn't or hasn't showed up.  It was posted under "Twas the day before season" on CP site.

Good luck.

Offline peteh2833

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #96 on: November 24, 2008, 11:07:47 AM »
Thanks for the info. I'll hold off for some warmer weather. I did put Titanium Felt on. No leaks either. A guy I work with his dad has a farm down in Preston County WV and is down there hunting this week. I want to get the wood stove installed so I'll have to make some type of tempory flashing for the stove pipe where it comes through the roof. Thanks Pete
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Offline Redoverfarm

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #97 on: November 24, 2008, 11:51:38 AM »
Pete if you are using tripple or double wall then a cheap shingle roof boot would probably work until you get your metal on and go for a regular metal roof boot.  I'm not sure if I sent you a site for those or not but here is what I was talking about for temporary

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009SS0ZK?smid=ADFRQ5K4I2LNR&tag=nextag-tools-tier4-delta-20&linkCode=asn

Offline peteh2833

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #98 on: November 24, 2008, 01:00:36 PM »
Thanks. I have one that is very similar to that. I had a friend make it that owns a metal fabricating shop before I decided to do the metal roof. It was going to be for shingles. It is pretty big since he made it for the 12/12 pitch roof. Thanks for all the help. I'll take a picture of the metal boot that the metal roof company gave me. It is flexible on the bottom and you cut the center rubber to the correct pipe diameter. I'm using 2 sections of pipe made by metal-fab. Inner stainless pipe with a ring of insulation then an out stainless pipe. Pete
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Offline peteh2833

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Re: 20x30 1 1/2 story in Northern PA
« Reply #99 on: December 02, 2008, 01:12:52 PM »
Went to camp for the start of deer season. No hunting though, just work on the camp. We had about 20" of snow. I got the front 2 windows in, got the wood stove installed, some insulation in and part of the loft floor done. The flashing around the stove pipe is temporary until I get the metal roof installed when it gets warm out. Here are some pics. Pete





















The last  picture is through the back screen door looking at the snow!!!!!!
« Last Edit: December 17, 2008, 02:15:49 PM by peteh2833 »
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