Don and Peter's Hot Rod Corner

[glenn kangiser]

Automatic?  Torque converter? hmm

[glenn kangiser]

Also -- I'm thinking maybe u-joints - they can do that -- shift back into place when you let off.

[MountainDon]

A cursory look and a grab and shake on the driveshafts didn't reveal anything, doesn't always mean anything. I didn't feel like crawling under today; maybe tomorrow I'll get it up off the ground.

The t-case sure seemed hot though so I was leaning in that direction. Just a guess so far. The real drqag is pulling off all the steel plates under all the parts. 

[glenn kangiser]

The thing that gets me about the t-case is the no noise while coasting.  I would expect it to be more constant.

[MountainDon]

I wonder about that too. It's a chain drive... I'm thinking maybe under load the chain tension is loading one of the bearing on the secondary shaft (not the right name,,,) . I dunno... I don't know much about the t-case... just guessing for now.

[glenn kangiser]

I'm going more for u-joints.  You many times have to slack them a little before they will show up as loose and they deteriorate rather rapidly. 

[MountainDon]

Before commencing anything I rolled the Jeep down the drive and got a tock-tock-tock noise. Backed it back up wit the same.

The T-case fluid drained out a dirty pink, but totally clear of any metallic particles. That's good. I'll be doing a complete drain and fill up with new Mobil One synthetic.

I pulled the rear driveshaft, after struggling with the ridiculously small amounts of wrench room, and found the CV a little rough. Worse, I found I'd "bruised" the shaft on a rock or something very hard right up behind the CV joint. I gave it to my neighbor who's in the driveshaft business. He's going to see if there's much in the way of salvageable parts.

[MountainDon]

And the T-case being hot might just be heat transfer from the auto trans. They're bolted up tight to each other. That's what I've been told.    I've never noticed it before.

[glenn kangiser]

I had quite a time diagnosing the T/C being out on my Jeep -- friend Al thought it was the transfer case but analyzing what worked and what didn't and clinky noises led me to the torque converter.  It was totally thrashed.

When I worked for Dodge I could road test a car and tell which axle bearing was out from the sound and vibration.

It's a bit harder over the internet. 

[glenn kangiser]

It was $950 at a discount (reg $1175) for a High Performance torque converter for the mighty Cummins - 200 core charge - but it will tear up the factory ones here in the mountains -- actually as a rule there is nothing much worse than a factory torque converter.

[glenn kangiser]

Only $805 for the complete overhaul with a new rebuilt T/C for the Jeep.

[glenn kangiser]

Sometimes I figure it is better for me to continue working and let some of the pro's do the job as I can make the money in the time I would lose being down - so still a sort of break even thing -- TC on the Dodge was no choice -- Jeep trans I could have done but was cheaper to let the pro do it for $805 and work at my regular job.

[glenn kangiser]

It varies up and down depending on what I can charge out to the job - me - equipment --helper - etc.  but that's ballpark -- when I work.  I don't make anything sitting here.

[MountainDon]

I picked up the renewed driveshaft today. The tube was okay. They installed a new double CV joint. I had the tail end joint replaced as well; too much trouble to take it out if it fails sometime down the road.

The failure was my own fault for not lubing it frequently enough. It's a royal pain... needs to be totally removed to lube the CV end. Just one of the downsides of a suspension lift. 

I found I was out of kerosene for the shop heater and since the high today reached a balmy 38 I put it off till tomorrow when I'll have kerosene and the weather will be warmer.  Maybe 45.   

$115

How's that stack up in your neighborhood,  Peter, Glenn?

[glenn kangiser]

Sounds cheap for here.  I can't start my truck and drive to town for 115.

[MountainDon]

I thought it was quite fair. For my money it sure beat me trying to do it myself. It was done by a shop that does nothing but driveshaft work and most of that is for heavy duty equipment and commercial trucks. I know the guy so he might be giving me jobbers price. I don't know for sure about that, but it's done right the first time too.

[glenn kangiser]

Tell me about it.  I do pretty good work but charge way too much.

...the government made me do it....

...sometimes I don't charge enough to get even though.

[MountainDon]

The driveshaft shop includes a dynamic balance too.

[MountainDon]

Well, I finally got around to re-installing the rebuilt d-shaft. So easy to put off when it's got one at the other end.    Runs smooth and quiet. I even remembered to grease 'em. The shop did the CV fine but not the single rear joint.

[glenn kangiser]

Guess I was pretty close on diagnosing the illness - even over the internet.   Well - at least it was on the driveshaft.

I had put a u-joint in mine a few weeks earlier and had that same vibration.

[MountainDon]

You were on track! The sound was a little different from other u-joint failures... but so far apart in time, it may be my memory failing as well.    The main problem/culprit was the ball and socket part that join the two cross joints. Made the tock-tock-tock sound even when rolling slowly. Just a lot more noticeable on the highway.

[desdawg]

I have been reading this thread and have to say I admire you guys mechanical ability.    And I am a little envious. I haven't ever been much good in that area and it really takes away from my attempt at self sufficiency. I took an auto mechanic class in high school but never really developed any skills. And lots of what I learned there doesn't even apply anymore. No points and condensors these days. I can do a few simple things but some of my best tools are phone numbers of people who know what they are doing, especially when it comes to the tractors. When I get up there in the hills it all becomes a lot more difficult. There isn't much way to load anything up and haul it out of there if it isn't running.  So far it hasn't come up but it is a concern. Anyway I have a lot of respect for those who have the knack. Hopefully I can keep reading and gain some inspiration to develop in that area. I think I need to.

[glenn kangiser]

First thing, desdawg, is to get the shop manuals on every piece of equipment you have .  Parts and operator manuals too.  Even at 80 to 100 dollars each, they are well worth it.  Haynes manuals etc are pretty worthless -- get the real deals.

There are few mechanics who would be much without the manual until they have several repairs of the same thing under their belts. 

[desdawg]

Do you have a good source for Bobcat manuals Glenn? I now have two 863's, one at each place. Those are probably the most intimidating looking pieces of equipment I have.

[MountainDon]

You could try eBay. I've bought a few things there and have found everything ok. TThough I only buy from folks with real good feedback ratings. I saw a couple 843 manuals there this AM... new, $80