Started by kinshollow, June 18, 2013, 03:15:14 PM
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Quote from: flyingvan on June 18, 2013, 03:30:40 PMhttp://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=11812.msg151774#msg151774http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=11821.msg151922#msg151922 Here is my solution for similar issues. It worked so well on the first build I did it again for the second. Both footings were hand dug then formed up. I was able to get a concrete pumper fairly close but if you just form it up and mix and pour concrete as time and money allows, you'll have some cold joints but a masonry wall is all cold joints. Advantages are, you only have to get the top of the forms level. I had massive boulders to deal with so I could just drill them out and epoxy rebar in to them
QuoteR403.1 General. All exterior walls shall be supported on continuous solid or fully grouted masonry or concrete footings, crushed stone footings, wood foundations, or other approved structural systems which shall be of sufficient design to accommodate all loads according to Section R301 and to transmit the resulting loads to the soil within the limitations as determined from the character of the soil. Footings shall be supported on undisturbed natural soils or engineered fill. Concrete footing shall be designed and constructed in accordance with the provisions of Section R403 or in accordance with ACI 332.
Quote from: Don_P on June 18, 2013, 03:36:14 PMFix the road I've poured footings using bag mix and a wheelbarrow or small mixer. I've seen precast footing blocks used but have no experience. The theory is that as long as you support the house on the soil with enough footprint to bear the load in that soil strength without sinking, you're good. Typically the footing cannot project out further than its' thickness, or another way, the load travels through the masonry at a 45 degree angle at most, otherwise "punch through" is a possibility, snapping the extending sides off the footing. The pic that I assume you are talking about fig R403.1(1) ((tip, page numbers vary, use the reference numbers like I just did so we can all keep straight)) works if the soil compressive strength is high enough to bear the load. Then there's the engineer option.
QuoteR606.2.3 Change in thickness. Where walls of masonry of hollow units or masonry-bonded hollow walls are decreased in thickness, a course of solid masonry shall be constructed between the wall below and the thinner wall above, or special units or construction shall be used to transmit the loads from face shells or wythes above to those below.
Quote from: Squirl on June 18, 2013, 05:19:34 PMIn most older masonry books and guides, what you propose of 3 blocks, then 1 run length wise, then 1, is not out of the ordinary. It is well covered in wall construction. You could even rebar the layers together. If the masonry is done in a running bond pattern, it should be plenty strong enough.http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_6_sec006.htmIt may depend on the background of your inspector or department. My inspector is also a licensed engineer. I can discuss finer points of technical manuals and guides with him. He understands the basis and intent of the code. The requirements for being a building inspector can vary vastly. A few I have talked with were framers before becoming inspectors. They were not as technical in understanding the code when it was vague in masonry and concrete. At the end of the day, I had more worry than I needed to before I dealt with my inspector.
Quote from: kinshollow on June 18, 2013, 05:21:34 PMSquirl: snip.........My county follows the IRC. The "12" footing" you asked about was just me not explaining what I meant to say well. I was referring to the minimum depth of the foundation for the frost line, not the thickness of the footing. snip..............
Quote from: jsahara24 on June 19, 2013, 01:15:43 PMI just got 8 yards of 3500 psi delivered in NY for 860$ I can't believe how much it costs in California. Amazing. Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2
Quote from: umtallguy on August 09, 2013, 12:24:36 AMIf you cant get a concrete truck in how will they get a firetruck or ambulance in if you need one...
Quote from: Don_P on August 09, 2013, 07:01:56 AMBingo.The argument so often forwarded "I can't get a concrete truck in" is a clear indication that either the road needs improving or the lot is unbuildable. There are multiple large vehicles that will likely need to service the home over the course of construction and its' life. The materials delivery trucks, the septic tank and later pumper, propane and on and on. On our house we truly could not get the truck in, I hooked it to a dozer and there was my sign. When we did scramble the fire dept the only trucks that could come up were the little brush truck and the ambulance and they would not make it in bad weather.