Al and Robins 20x30 1 1/2 near Lake Eufaula, OK

[ajbremer]

Titanium UDL-30 looks like a great product that I should use instead of #15 or #30 felt, has any of you used this?

Here's a link to the stuff:

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&q=titanium+udl+price&gbv=2&safe=active&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=13013811794880745039#

[Don_P]

Just got power back, we went out in the third windstorm Sun (5mph below local residential design load, I've seen some porch roofs in yards) so I'm a little behind, I've used Grace and Titanium, They are both great compared to felt for longer term exposure or wind. I do prefer titanium, especially in summer, the grace is black and a good bit warmer. Tell your Lowes to get on the stick, grace is a stock item here and we are way deeper in the boonies than you.

[ajbremer]

Friday Morning - July 6th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

I'm trying to get a rough estimate of how much log siding I'll need and it sells by the linear foot. I made a graphic that shows my exact openings and the gable end size. From the information that I googled, it said I should add 10% to the figure so that I won't be short.

It is important to get this figure by subtracting the areas for doors and windows, correct? I wanted to find some kind of online calculator but things aren't always that simple. Here's the graphic where I'm getting my sizes from:

[suburbancowboy]

Also make sure you check the quality of the log siding.  I ended up having about 20% waste.  Also something else to consider is the lengths of the boards you get.  As an example if the ends are 20 feet then either get 20 foot boards or 10 foot board.  Any other size you will have a lot of cut off waste.  This has been killing me on my build.

[ajbremer]

Friday Afternoon - July 6th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

So many people are trying to talk me into doing a metal roof as opposed to shingles. Their say'in that I'll be up and down that roof all summer doing underlayment and shingles. It has been going very slow because I'm very careful up there and it is very hot. I almost can't work up there after 12:00 noon.

Question: Can I change my mind to a metal roof at this point? Is there some kind of ridge vent for metal also? I guess I would stop right at my osb with the metal where the porch rafters will begin. Any comments?

[UK4X4]

me being a brit - shingles is an alergic rash- not a roofing sytem

I worked in dade county after hurricane andrew as a roofer- I found them to be an interesting product, but not exactly a roofing system I could take home to UK commonly slate, tile and concrete

We have rain in England..

The hidden screw metal roofing is what I'm going for, again holes where the water runs to me is a mistake.

But it all depends on where you live and what investment you can afford-

me I'd rather invest in the roof and wait for sheetrock............

I'm going for log siding too - but up top cheaper ply batt and board like this

http://www.barnpros.com/products/barn-house/index.html

Should make it easier to price too- linear ft is not so dificult- but you need the "actual physical "width

When I've been looking at mine I just too total wall size- the windows and doors giving me my spare/ scrap

You'll never be spot on............either you have to order more- or your boiler cabinet doors become log siding !

[ajbremer]

To add to my last post:

(Thanks for the post UK4x4)

I called Wheeler Metals today and got a quote for my roof, just to see how much the majority would cost.

They said I should use 26 gauge which is ~0.018 thick. I asked to quote the color green. They said the 26 gauge comes in a 10 year or a 40 year guarantee and that it has to do with the coating. They said that the 26 gauge 10 year was $2.12 a linear foot and the 26 gauge 40 year is $2.50 a linear foot.

I told them my dimensions were: 34' x 15'. That's not right-on but it's close. They said I would need 12 sheets a side, 24 total.

40 Year: $900
10 Year: $763.20

They quoted the ridge cap (and it vents when you buy the closure) at $54.00.

They can have the order ready in 3 to 5 days and they don't deliver because they said the metal can get easily messed up when put with other materials so they have the customer pick up the stuff.

So, all in all, it looks like I can get a metal roof for right around $1000. I know I'll have to buy screws and some other triming but it sure sounds nice...maybe nicer then shingles?

[UK4X4]

mm $800 for 10 and $900 for 40 years - thats a no brainer............but the trim- screws sealant and farkles add up

I've always found the main parts are cheap- but all the little stuff nickle an dimes you to death !

Others I'm sure can add you in the other needed parts

[ColchesterCabin]

We have a local company here same deal metal is dirt cheap, and also UK is right the screws and other stuff does add up. But when you subtract the labour cost plus the durability it far superceeds in value. With my build it is off the grid so I chose to go with a metal roof when i get there so I can collect the water off the roof to use for grey water initially. I figure the Cabin would get used more if I didn't have to go outside per say.

[CjAl]

my wife wants green archatectural shingles. i want silver metal, the house will already be green and thats too much green. plus silver or white will reflect more heat. i would go with the metal myself. i like the standing seam stuff but its more money. you will have to ask how to do the transition between the roof and porch roof pitches. some sort of flashing i imagine.

[Don_P]

There is a flashing at the transition that tucks under the upper metal and sits on top of the ribs of the lower roof. The bottom edge of the upper roof metal needs to start uphill a bit to account for the porch roof sheathing and the height of the ribs at the roof angles, plus a little bit. The upper metal does not need to jam right down into the fold.

I use upper and lower closure strips on each sheet. Decide which trims you want or need from the suppliers selection and get a full quote, not just the sheets.

We predrill the metal in stacks on the ground for screws with 1/8" bits. Pull the end sheets off the stack first, they will need a different pattern along the edges.

[ajbremer]

Saturday Morning - July 7th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

I'm out there this morning and I finished nailing the 2nd row of osb on the north side. Now it's time to put up the beginnings of row number 3. It's cloudy today with just a little breeze. It's 89 degrees out there right now with a 12mph wind. Wow, a lot of the country is in a heat wave in triple digits.

Today's not a bad day to roof, thank you Lord!

[CjAl]

my thermometer read 104 in jenks yesterday. i just got home it was 95 then the thunderstorm moved in and its 72. it has been right at or over 100 for a month, 72 is darn nice

[ajbremer]

That's for sure Cj!

[ajbremer]

Saturday Night - July 7th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

I found a pretty nice diagram of the different parts and trim parts of a metal roof. It helps me to understand what I need.

This diagram came from the website: www.muellerinc.com

Here's the Metal Roof Trim Diagram:

Trim is an essential part of a metal roof. Trim is what helps seal all joints where a transition is made in the slope and direction of a roof. It also has many aesthetic qualities. For some of the trim listed below, there will be several different trim profiles to choose from based on the look you would like to achieve.



1) Ridge Roll or Peak Sheet: This trim will be found anywhere two rising roof surfaces meet one another, such as the ridge, a hip, or the top of a dormer. Peak sheets are only available for R- and U-Panels.

2) Rake or Gable Trim: This trim is found anywhere a sloping edge ends, such as the end of a gable or the end of a dormer.

3) Gutter or Eave Trim:Eave trim is installed on the lowest edge of the roof. Its main purpose is to give a finished look to the roof. If gutters are requested, they would be installed in place of Eave Trim.

4) Downspout: Downspouts are used when gutters installed. They drain water from the gutters to the ground.

5)Wall to Roof Transition: Any time a vertical wall surface meets another roof surface, transition trim is required in order to keep water from getting underneath the roof panels. A similar trim is also needed around chimneys.

6) Valley Flashing: Valley trim is required anywhere two roof surfaces meet to form a valley. The Valley Trim is installed underneath the roof panels to help guide water and keep it from getting under the panels.

7) Transition Trim: Any time a roof is sloping in one direction but that slope changes, transition trim is required. It is used to keep water from getting under the roof panels.

[ajbremer]

Sunday Morning - July 8th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

Another good day for roofing, 79 degrees, a little cloudy, with a 40% chance of rain.

I'm looking forward to getting all of the osb on very soon, within the next couple of days. Then onto Titanium Felt and then framing the gable ends and doing their osb. Wow, won't be able to see the sky no more!

[ajbremer]

Sunday Night - July 8th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

My angles have been aching lately and I started to wonder if it had to do with being on the 12:12 pitch roof day after day for the last few weeks. Come to find out, there is ankle pain associated with roofers and high inclines. I googled the problem and it didn't take long to find articles relating to the apparent fact.

One article titled: "A Survey of the Safety Roles and Costs of Injuries in the Roofing Contracting Industry" proclaimed this:

"In the job-site interviews, all roofers stated that they enjoyed working on the flat parts of
the roof much more than the inclined surfaces because it is easier to operate more efficiently.
They also mentioned that working on the flat roofs was stressful to the back and knees because
there is a lot of bending over at the waist. According to the roofers interviewed, the greater the
slope, the more ankle and foot pain they felt. While they said there are not many foot injuries,
they did say all roofers have foot/ankle aches and pains. When asked if these aches and pains
were worse at the beginning of their careers or currently, one roofer said that it was worse when
he started. He said that over time he had learned how to shift his weight from one side to the
other to give each side a rest while he was up on the roof. The other roofer said that he felt the
aches worsen with age. He said when he was young he was fearless and felt little pain. Now he
said that he feels constant aches in his back and ankles, especially while working at inclined
surfaces."

That article is found at: http://www.asse.org/academicsjournal/archive/vol3no1/06spring_choi5.pdf

I also read within that article that one worker solved the problem by continually shifting his weight periodically.

I'm glad that all of my osb is just about up now BUT, I'll have to get back up there in a little while to put on the felt and then the metal.

[Don_P]

And now you know why I hire roofers after I get it dried in  . Google plantar fascitis as well. In this heat keep your potassium up, gatorade, nanner puddin, deep greens and blues are the colors to choose, it'll help make it all go away. And rock away sweet baby James 

[Redoverfarm]

Al you will have to take more precautions when putting the Titaninum down.  You will not be able to use roof jacks or 2X's as steps starting at the bottom which is convientional manner because you will penetrate it with the nails and if it is sometime before your metal is installed it will leak. 

A solution is start at the top leaving the overlap portion loose.  Then with the next row you just slip it up under then nail that last overlap.  Continue to the eve edge.  That way you can attach either roof jacks or 2X's nailed onto the OSB to walk on and keep moving them to the eve edge and the felt will cover any holes the nails make. 

It is very difficult to put the titaninum down by yourself.  You actuall need two people to go from the top to the bottom.  Remember to use "button or cap nails" and follow the nailing patterns.

[ajbremer]

Thanks Don and redoverfarm - great advice!

Now about my dry soil conditions. I've noticed lately that the ground around my build is very dry from lack of rain. I can see cracks in the dirt starting to form like some of those dry lake bed pictures you've seen. Actually, not that bad but I'm getting concerned.

I googled 'soil dry cracked foundation' and came up with interesting results. It seems that I should be lightly watering my soil now and then when there is no rainfall. I hate the thought of it but I can see some circular dry soil cracks here and there around where a few piers are.

There is no sign that any pier has moved or that the house is moving or things are out of level. Of course, I don't have a door that don't shut because of movement but someday I'll have a door.

On the opposite side of the coin, my soil has a drainage problem when it rains really hard for long periods of time. I have been investigating getting a french drain put in. I have been told that's the way to go. Those hard rains are few and far between but I still want to be safe.

Here's some info I found talking about dry soil conditions:

[Alasdair]

http://vicwest.com/installation_tips/residential

I found this site to have some helpful information on metal roofing.

[ajbremer]

Monday Morning - July 9th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

Thank you for the link to those metal roofing installation guides, they really help me to understand how things go together up there. I've talked to my metal place and they quoted me for stuff called, 'Low Rib' R - Panel. I went online and found a really nice installation guide that has really good diagrams.

Now I have a very important question: I asked the metal guy about laying the panels right down on the osb or using purlins. He said it's 50 / 50. Half of the people use the purlin method and the other half lay the metal right down on the osb BUT using underlayment first. I've seen a few builds here where they have no osb, just purlins going across the rafters. Then they put the felt, and then the metal down. Seems so much stronger and better using osb. What is the best way to do it when there IS osb down. To lay the metal panels on the felt that is layed directly on the osb OR to use purlins on the osb (5/8's) and then lay the metal down on it?

My plan is to put the felt down on my 5/8's osb and then put the metal panels directly down on the felt, am I on the right track?

And once again, thanks for those links Alasdair!

Here's that nice metal roof installation guide:

http://metalexperts.ca/pdf/InstallationGuide.pdf

[CjAl]

purlins imo just make a great place for wasps nests. our uncle had his metal roof put on.over perlins and there is so many wasps now you cant even use yhe porches he has all around the house..

i think purlins on top of the felt just make a dam for water. i had considered using perlins on top of osb and felt but i was going to put foam insulation panels between the perlins and mabey even another layer of felt on top of them but i just dont know if its worth it. my idea was to get extra insulation and another air gap because i am in such a hot climate. plus perlins make a real nice ladder to work on.

[ajbremer]

Monday Afternoon - July 9th, 2012

I did a video showing cracks around my pier holes. I used 8 to 10 bags of 80 pound Quikrete in each pier hole. Because of the very dry conditions and lack of rain in my area, the ground has been drying up and cracking.

This is kind of a long youtube video (5 minutes) but I took the time to show you the cracks around the piers. I watered the soil just before taking this video.

There's a happy medium of moisture content for soil around piers and maybe someday I'll find out how to maintain that level of moisture.

Here's the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVUlwh_U54g

[rick91351]

Your cracking is really nothing to be concerned with especially with three foot deep piers.  It is mainly surface cracking and a way the Good Lord created soil to get water down in to the soil next rainy season.  That is another reason why your piers are suppost to set on virgin soil.