Started by ajbremer, May 09, 2011, 04:01:01 AM
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Quote from: Don_P on June 19, 2012, 04:47:29 PMJohn, I'm not following your method from the bottom of pg 26... a sketch or try again?Al what you have is how I do it. I do make the sub out of the same size material as the fly... they are both subfascias and I like to try to keep the fascias pretty uniform.
Quote from: Don_P on June 19, 2012, 06:55:16 PMThere ya go, we're always tripping over one another for the opportunity to do more blocking . Your gable end, rake fascias will be 1x or 2x10's. I like the look, well, I like multi layered foot deep overhangs. Do run some 2x8 blocking nailed to the lookouts and spanning from wall nailer to fly to hold that deep thing square. You can do that when you do soffit and fascia later unless things start curling. If it were mine, and I've been told all my taste is in my mouth, I would use a 2x8 subfascia and a 1x10 fascia. For paint grade work I like Miratek 5/4 trim. A wider fascia allows the gutter to pitch more.Redover, sorry I was being lazy in the post pane, post #647. I'm understanding how you're finding and marking the plumb cut but at a 45 the cut is going to be about 10-1/4" tall. The subfascia needs to plane in with the roof ply up top and the soffit on its' bottom edge. How are you avoiding a level cut on the rafter tail? I'm thinking even with a 2x8 subfascia the level cut will be about 8-3/4" down the face of the plumb cut (7-1/4+1-1/2 drop to plane it in up top)
Quote from: CjAl on June 22, 2012, 12:17:10 PMi LOVE my ten foot porch. lots of room for anything.
Quote.....with a tongue and groove for sheeting since you will see it unless you close it in underneath