wall building (& then raising) question

Started by countryborn, June 17, 2008, 12:16:35 AM

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countryborn

I understand that raising a wall in 12 foot sections has to be a lot easier than lifting the 48 foot long wall was.  [crz]  But I don't know how to attach the 12 foot sections, & how to make sure everything is plumb & square.  Won't building it in 4 sections, instead of one piece, multiply the chance of problems?  ???
we are using 2x6's, 24 " o.c.  Standard 8' high walls. 
Two 24' walls, two 48' walls. 
All the walls & all the pictures I see show bottom plates made with either 8', 10', or 12' lumber, & a single stud over each joint in the bottom plate.  So, how are the 12' sections attached to each other?  What if there is a window or doorway there?  (Don't tell me to move the window, I have my reasons for putting windows where they are.)
I seem to be the only one who doesn't know this wall building detail.  But I can't find the answer in any of the building books I have checked, & I can't find any pix to show the answer.
Thanks for any help.
you can't have everything without having too much of something.

John_M

Well first of all, if you have the personnel, I would think that raising a 48' wall is not impossible, especially since it is only 8 feet high.  If you can't get the bodies, then you could build it in sections.  You could connect your individual walls in a number of ways.  Put in an extra stud.  Leave a small portion of the top and bottom plate long and fit in a stud after to join them.  When you put on the second top plate, that will help join them as well.  Then when you are ready for sheathing, making sure they cover the seams of your wall will help too.  I wish I had a picture or two to show you what I mean. d*

Others will have their thoughts and opinions as well!!
...life is short...enjoy the ride!!


NM_Shooter


A single stud fits over the butt joints on the base plate, and under the butt joint for the top plate.  The center of the stud fits right on the joints for the two wall sections. 

Then a second top plate is nailed on such that it ties the two wall sections together. 

Before you start nailing anything, make sure that you have your plates laid out correctly.  Remember to compensate for the thickness of the sheathing on one side of each corner of the building when laying out the plates. 

Putting two studs at the ends of the wall sections and then nailing them together after the walls are raised does not add much (if any) strength to the wall and just uses up lumber and insulation space.

"Officium Vacuus Auctorita"

glenn kangiser

As long as everything is layed out properly and parallel, it is easy to plumb after it is stood.  Level it with a good 4' level and nail bracing to hold it plumb.  The next sections should plumb up to it fine if laid out right. 

I stack them together in their location and match the wall layout I've done on the floor - run a square across the two plates on their side and mark to get right - trim to proper length to get rid of overage on the mill length boards.

Leave the joint stud out and put it in after the wall is raised toe nailing the bottom.

PEG's the pro at this stuff -- hope he shows up. :)
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

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countryborn

We don't have the personel, that's the problem.  Just 2 of us.  And assorted devices - modified cherry picker, floor jacks, camper jacks, improvised braces.  And brute strength.  and rope.  (gotta have a brake when the wall is finally upright!)
I think I have an idea, now.
Next time some one writes a house building book, I hope they include all the needed picture! 
you can't have everything without having too much of something.


Willy

Your not going to have 48 ft long wood for the wall so you will have to build it in sections anyway. So just build the wall on the floor and when you have a section nailed together make the break at a window or door. Leave the top plate long so it goes over a stud on the next section and don't worry about the floor the wall nails to it. Once your section is up brace it and stand the next section. After you get enought sections up put a over laping top plate that extends at least 4 ft past the joint below it. After you have the wall up plumb it and tie the finel top plate into the end walls. 48 ft is a LONG wall to stand you better have a LOT of people if you want to try it. Draw the wall on paper first and buy long 2x6s for the plates don't use 8 ft material. Try to use 14-16 ft long boards for the plates it will make the section more stiff and allow over lap at the joints. Mark

John Raabe

Nice work guys.

This is all covered well and with great diagrams in the Wagner "House Framing" book. You'll learn things you didn't remember to ask and find tricks that might save a mistake or two. Any freshly minted production carpenter should have this book.

http://www.countryplans.com/books.html
None of us are as smart as all of us.

FrankInWI

just son and I built our walls.  did some in sections.  Duplex nail into the top corners of the wall (on both ends).  Taut line makes great for making the wall straight.  If it's 1/4" away from the wall at the corners....I line the rest of the wall to maintain this 1/4" distance the full lengght.
god helps those who help them selves

Redoverfarm

Everyone has his own little secrets but here are a couple if you hadn't heard of them before.

Since the deck is built use it as your work platform.  Lay out your sill plate on your deck.  Caulk a line the width of your sill along the outside wall that you are building. Stand your sill on edge so that the outside edge is on your caulk line. With 6-8 d toe-nail (two nails) in sill plate to the deck every 1-2 feet. Now place one of your top plates parrallel to that one on the inside.  Mark off your stud locations and window&doors(cripples) on both the top and bottom sill at one time. 

Move the top plate the distance of your stud length.  Attach the studs and or headers and build the wall.  Attach the second top plate as so to stagger for overlap and sections joints and or corners.  Square up your wall using the diagonal measurements. After square attach sheeting. 

Raise the wall to the plumb position.  The small guage nails will bend as he wall is erected and help stabilize it while plumbing.  Brace the ends to the subfloor and check for straightness.  Attach an intermediate brace once it is straight.

Good Luck



mochsa

Hello:
This will be easy.
Build in sections and when you have the walls all raised simply nail the two end studs for adjoining wall sections together, then when you add your top plate it should over lap the joints.  you will use a few extra studs this way but it makes it really easy for two people to raise. 
However, you can leave leave the last stud out on one side of each end and then raise one section and brace it then raise the next brace it and nail the top and bottom in place.  then when you add your 2nd top plate overlap the joints.
As for windows and door you can do it, don't give up.  The easiest way if your not experianced is to build a wall section that puts the window right where you want it and then build the wall section to the sides smaller that 8 ft. in other words  you have a 48ft section build your window areas and door areas and then build the rest around those (this is not the way a framer would do it but it makes it really easy for you.)  just keep you studs on 16" centers as the wall moves along.
now if you want to do it like a framer, then you build your headers and put in your stringers (that is what the headers rest on) put in your cripplers (those are the little blocks that run from the header to the top plate) and place one crippler on each side of the joint in the top plate.  then when you add the top plate (second top plate) you overlap the joint to tie it together.
as for plumping and squaring, square the wall and brace and then plump by using braces that run to the ground outside or the floor inside and work down the wall once it is all up and the 2nd top plate is on.
Hope all that makes since.
PEACE!!!!
Noel

countryborn

Thank you, all!  Well, 3 walls up. one more to go.  My husband managed to get the most complicated wall up by himself (48' long,3 large windows & a sliding glass door).  With the aforementioned implements - modified cherry picker, jacks, etc.   all square & more or less plumb.  So, I could not convince him that we need to build the last long wall in 12' sections. 
We started framing it today, laying out on the deck as we did before.
I did ask him to take photos if he puts the wall up before I can watch next weekend.
Could be an historical event.      8)
you can't have everything without having too much of something.