installing a window--question about flashing...

[MikeT]

So I found out I can go ahead and install my windows prior to my shearwall inspection.  Hooray!  Now I need to land on how I will flash the windows.  Milgard's website says that there are two options:
1. Flash the sill below, then install the window with a sealant, and then flash around or
2. Flash the sill below, then the sides, and then put the flashing on at the top of the window over the sealant

But what should I use for flashing-- just 30# tarpaper or should I invest in more expensive stuff?
Is there a preferred sealant I should use?  I am on the Oregon coast.

Thanks,
mt

[MountainDon]

Method 1.  Use a flashing material like Grace Vycor® Plus Self-Adhered Flashing  This one is recommended for areas with wind driven rain.

Also check on the main Country Plans site. Look for the Installation manual for Vinyl windows (with flanges).
http://www.countryplans.com/InlinePDF.html

[PEG688]

 Mtn D's been listening

Here's another Vycor site link , on it you'll see a " How to flash it right" windows : click on that link and you should see a lil video.

Also they have a very good booklet that the Borg    ( Home despot / Lowes / )and local lumber yards should have down your way.

And yes felt AND the  Grace Vycor tape on the PNW coastal areas is a wise choice. 

Link : http://www.graceathome.com/index.htm

G/L "Flash it right " eh Glenn    

[MountainDon]

Mtn D's been listening  

Ah shucks! 

Nice little video, Paul. Shows some of the horrors that may lurk under poorly flashed construction.

[glenn kangiser]

Do we need the illustrated  flashing picture with grading? hmm

[PEG688]

Well it is customary , but we did a good job without it this time 

Could be time to  that one eh   Of course I might just as well  cuz ya know ya wanta post it.

[glenn kangiser]

Maybe I can find a new one.  I'll resist the temptation. 

[MikeT]

Okay, so I have read the Milgard install instructions and seen the Grace video.  I will install a barrier on the sill before putting on the window.  Instead of buying the Grace Vycor tape, is there any reason NOT to use material from my big roll of Grace Ice and Water Shield I have sitting around? 

[FrankInWI]

I used the more expensive tape for my windows, roll after roll $$$$ !.   I cut back some one the windows under wide overhangs.  The windows I installed upstairs said to use the tape,  for different sliders from the same company downstairs, it just said to caulk behind the flange.  I did some of both downstairs, wish I'd have caulked upstairs.

QUESTION:  I want to use the caned foam on the inside to seal between the window edges and the rough framing.  On the tighter spots ( < 1/2 ")  I figure to use the minimal expanding foam.  I'm wondering about using the regular expanding foam on the bigger gaps though.   Thoughts?   

PS...got 10% coupon with my statement from Home Depot and went there last night and bought all my electrical supplies.  Hired electrician for cash to come in this weekend to wire the place (with son Ben and I working with him).  $25 / hr.

[MountainDon]

The special minimal expansion (available from Great Stuff and Dow) is what you should use around windows and doors. The regular expands with greater force and can actually deform the casing. Happened to a neighbor of mine. I've used the Dow. It stays pliable after curing.

As for the Snow & Ice, I can't say for certain, but it's probably ok. The stuff meant for windows comes in a nice roll of exactly the right width.

[PEG688]

 

You could use the wider Ice and water shield , It will be a PITA to work with . Maybe,  If your sure your done with it , you could put a old saw blade on the skilsaw and cut it into smaller rolls, it might heat it up and self seal the cut edge and make it a bigger PITA to work with though

On the expanding foam , as long as it can expand out and you try to install "to little" as once you think you have enought you have way TO MUCH , you might get away without distorting the frames of the windows.

The insulators we use stuff a foam "rope" in the smaller cracks , I wonder if the Borg carries that?  It comes in  1/4" , 3/8" ,1/2 " , and 5/8" dia. I think   that might be better than the "big time" expanding foam..

You could just stuff regular insulation in there with a puddy knife , all your looking for is to cut down drafts.

G/L PEG   

[TBA]

MikeT

I'm using my left over Ice and Water shield on the sills, but using vycor on the outside and lapping over the first couple of inches on the I&W. The 36in wide I&W works well with the 30 1/2 RO's. I just cut the I&W length wise for the wider RO's.

[PEG688]

TBA looking good ! 

Here are you building? I noticed you ran your wall sheathing horizontally , here in Washington we'd have to solid block that seam line, as the IRC says "all edges of sheathing MUST be nailed"  at least on walls , I shouldn't even think this , as it may come to be  , but as I was typing this I thought "Why don't they call us on roof sheathing " for those seams NOT being blocked

Don't worry I won't ask the local inspectors , no sense asking for trouble

I much rather sheet horizontally but due to that code we generally soldier ( stand up right )  our sheets , generally a little less blocking that way.

[TBA]

PEG, I'm a little north of the 49th and I tossed the idea back and forth to go horizontal or vertical. The BC Building Code allows either direction for wall sheathing but for roof it must be perpendicular. No blocking of the seams required in either area. I stick framed each floor (2 story - platform style), got everything string-lined and plumb then sheathed the walls and the primary reason for going horizontal was the scaffolding. Just seemed easier and safer as entire sheets could be nailed from one level at a time.

There has been an occasional earth rumble where I am, nothing serious but I've been considering adding blocking anyway even though not required. It just seems to make sense.

The house will get a carport on the east end and a wrap around porch on the other three sides in the spring.

[Mo]

I used the roll flashing on all of my windows. After loosing a roll of the flashing because of a quick temperature drop, it fell off during the night, I used a heat gun and warmed it up after applying it then went over it with a seam roller. Oh it is flammable, so don't get to close. But none has fallen off since.

[FrankInWI]

it was pretty cool out when I applied some of the window tape.  Not the greatest seal because of this.  The next weekend up I brought up a few cans of spray adhesive and that worked fantastic.  It even mentions on the tape instructions to use spray adhesive below "X" tempature. 

[FrankInWI]

IDEA:  When the gap between the rough opening and the window was wide enough (+1/4 " ?) I found that from the inside of the building I could put the tube from the foam can all the way in....to the extent that the whole cavity would fill with foam, from the outside flange back in.  Water doesn't permeat that stuff, so this seems to me to be a really good seal against leaking.  Next time I am going to make sure my gaps are wide enough. 

[MountainDon]

Jus be sure that anyplace you use the regular foam has enough free space, like out in the open with wall sheathed one side only, because it it's a closed space the foam can develop enough force to mess things up. Sounds like you were working with the interior yet unfinished. 

[FrankInWI]

yep, working from un-finished interior.  And I am using the minimal expanding foam too for this part of the job.

[MikeT]

One more question about the sealant that goes on the flange and adheres to the sheathing.  Is there a preferred brand, special things to look for, or things to avoid?

Thanks,
mt