This weekend I hope to start installing the windows and doors on the first floor.
As the door manufacturer calls for, I framed a 38-1/2" opening for the prehung 36" wide exterior door. This allows for a space of about 5/8" on each side to be shimmed. MY question is: Wouldn't it be better to attach the hinge side of the door directly the the framed opening? I know this area is 100 percent square and level. Then just rip a 2x6 to fill the void on the other side?

It's good to have about 3/8" gap all around which is a good size for caulking/foaming it airtight. Smaller than that and you can't really get the nozzle in there. I guess you could run a couple lines of caulk before you set the door. If the issue is security, it might be better to have the no gap on the latch side. You can always use really long screws in the hinges but the deadbolt length is limited.

good luck this weekend, yes , I would install the hinge side up agianst the stud,and fill in the other side ,too, just leave enough space in the strike plate side for adjustments. do not use expandable foam, and caulking the back side of the brick mold is a good idea also,if you remove the weather stripping, drive your screws,just infront of the grove.    

QuoteI know this area is 100 percent square and level. Then just rip a 2x6 to fill the void on the other side?

I've seen your work, Jimmy - I have a lot of faith in you but - try the door in the opening - leave room for shims if necessary - maybe the door guys screwed up a bit - level may be relative to how straight and accurate your square and level are- how level your floor is after rains - how much the frame tweaks, how much your 2x studs twist while drying etc. - if you have room to fine tune it it's not as much of a problem.

 Jimmy on doors I generally split the difference , IE center the door jamb .

reasons why.

 #1 I shim right behind each hinge , plumb the hinge side either right off the jamb or if you only have a short level close the door most of the way and plumb off the door edge .

#2  after the hinge side is plumb I run 2 1/2 " screws thru the inner two hinge holes , I toss the short screws away or into the twenty year bin.

 #3 Now with the hinge side and door plumb I use it to set a consistant reveal , each door will be a bit different , should be but they are . The gaps should be about 1/8" all around top and sides.

If you need to , which is normal you'll need to push the head piece either toward the hinge side or the other way generally the head needs to go toward the hinge  side , as the screw into the trimmer stud will pull the top a bit when you tighten it .

   #4 On the handle side I always shim top , handle area , and bottom . Some jambs will need help in between so you may have a 5 point shim on the handle side .

 #5  Reason I do it this way is I can tweak that door at trim out after it been oned and closed a few hundred time , it's weathered in so to speak . The S/Rer's have drywall up tight to the jamb forcing it around etc . If I'm tight to either side my options are limited. To final placement tweaking action.

    #5 b.   If your in a hallway your R.O. should be centered on that space and you want your door like wise centered.



  For windows , I also center the window , spaced with two carpenters pencils about two inchs in from the end of the window . One person in one out , level the bottom of the window place one 2" roofing nail in each bottom corner.

I then plumb the side , check the inside spacing at the top , then one the window a bit , If it's a slider,  I use the window itself to see if plumb is what I want or is the window going to lead, Vinyl window s tend to be  ah different each one . So the gap might rule over the plumb part . Once I'm happy I tack the top and then pull any bows out of the sides using the window to get it strieght.  

Once all that is done , which after the first 50 or so windows it becomes easy second nature .   Big windows like 8 ' and wider or taller it's more work tweaking .  

 Nail it off using the roofing nails , do not nail the head , on a really wide window I will put one nail 1/4 or so above the flange and bend it down and over the nail flange so the window doesn't flop out at the top .

  Theers that little guide book I posted some time back that gives great instructions for papering and flashing .  

I don't know how to use the search thingie  or even if we have a search thingie  :-/  

 Good luck hope I didn't totally confuse ya , Paul

Listen to PEG, Jimmy -- I do most of my work with a sledge hammer and a chainsaw although some of it was a very short version of what PEG told you in detail.

I couldn't find the flashing info, PEG -- if you know anything more specific I'd be glad to try to find it.

 Grace  Vycor window tape and details . Small booklet should be free at Home Depot's I got mine at the local lumber yard , I think I saw them in our H/D. Web site

  http://www.graceathome.com/pages/flashing.htm

I can't remember the thread it was on  

 Also a thing called a Jamb sill , a ABS "pan " that goes under the door sill , I don't think they have a web site , they are from Or. I believe.

PEG

What PEG said.  And remember Jimmy...the ROs that the mfgs suggest assume that the framers do not care, are not too skilled, and will not be doing the trim out.  When you DIY with care, you can tighten up on the ROs and still have the room that PEG talks about to take care of adjustment.

And, BTW, Jimmy aside, the lumber I'm getting is garbage. How 'bout you?  Ordered from several sources.  Doesn't much matter.  Had to order an official Mayhew Tweaker, Channel Locks won't do it anymore.  Back to adobe for me ASAP.  If it was cheap one might be inclined to take it as it comes...but it's not cheap, is it?

Thanks everyone! There is so much information available from this forum.
I have been here over a year now and I am always amazed at the help I receive.  
A lot of my problem is I need to now why something is done a certain way.
My production background causes me always look for a better, stronger, faster and more cost effective way to build something.
With that in mind, I have often found out (The hard way) why things are done a certain way.
Usually it is several steps and many days down the line in the building process.

Quote 

A lot of my problem is I need to now why something is done a certain way.


  Yup , I to want to know why, Guess thats why my answers are never short



My production background causes me always look for a better, stronger, faster and more cost effective way to build something.



Ding, ding , ding me to . If I ever buy or think about a CNC router for a shop , I'll be callin ya


With that in mind, I have often found out (The hard way) why things are done a certain way.


Jee is there another way to learn , Oh ya the forum


  We're  off to Az. for a week come this Friday , warm and dry  :)for a change.
 
   Good luck Jimmy, PEG