Author Topic: Oregon 28x38 universal w/shed addition  (Read 20122 times)

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Offline tristan

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Re: Oregon 28x38 universal w/shed addition
« Reply #25 on: September 04, 2012, 05:54:36 AM »
second floor exterior walls up.  Now we need to get interior walls up before the trusses arrive. 



the morning fog is a nice break from the afternoon heat



Lots of big windows upstairs too



Shower to the top floor!



Gutter drains.  They are separate from the footing drains but the two tie together ten feet from the house and daylight about 100 feet down the hill.  Four inch drain pipe barely fit in our trench!  Also trenched in water line and phone line while we had the trencher rented.






Here's where we are after the long labor day weekend. 













We also need to decide what we are doing for porches before the siding gets done.  Oregon says that if we have a covered porch more than 6 feet deep we need to have it engineered.  We definitely want a shed roof porch off the front (the front is where the two a-frames are in the last picture above.  I think we want at least seven feet deep though and maybe eight.  Bit of a hassle paper-work wise  (plus the engineer wants his $ to stamp things of course). Might just do a 6 foot deep porch off the back though- it'll basically be a place to take off boots in the dry with steps down to a ground-level patio so I think 6 feet might do there.  Any thoughts on porch depth?

Offline UK4X4

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Re: Oregon 28x38 universal w/shed addition
« Reply #26 on: September 04, 2012, 06:37:17 AM »
Would they accept a self drawn plan with engineered parts using software ?

ie there's free software that I use that outputs the engineering for all the main building parts
and then just draw draw the deck using those parts.

If they really need the engineer's stamp you can then just have the engineer check and sign the dwgs, and not pay for the whole design process and the drawings.

Personally I think 6 ft is too narrow, if its a place where you wish to hang out - put your feet up of swing in a hamaca.

if its just a dump the shoes and store some firewood it should be fine.


Offline John Raabe

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Re: Oregon 28x38 universal w/shed addition
« Reply #27 on: September 04, 2012, 06:43:39 AM »
I've always liked an 8' porch which is enough to have a small group sitting together. 6' is fully functional for the uses you mention.

The engineering request likely involves checking the beam sizes and connections for earthquake bracing for your locale. It shouldn't be an expensive workup. Ask for estimates as there can be lots of variations.
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Offline mountainlady1956

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Re: Oregon 28x38 universal w/shed addition
« Reply #28 on: September 05, 2012, 06:22:08 PM »
You've made some great progress! It's such a beautiful setting ::) Cathy

Offline duncanshannon

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Re: Oregon 28x38 universal w/shed addition
« Reply #29 on: October 14, 2012, 12:54:27 PM »
great project!   [cool]

You are flying thru the build!  Clearly you know what you are doing... are you a builder or what?

Excited to follow your progress.

Home: Minneapolis, MN area.  Land: (no cabin yet) Spooner, WI area.  Plan: 20x34 1 1/2 Story. Experience Level: n00b. 
Build Thread: http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=10784.0

Offline tristan

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Re: Oregon 28x38 universal w/shed addition
« Reply #30 on: October 15, 2012, 08:05:50 AM »
Thanks for all the comments and encouragement. No we're not pros by any stretch of the imagination and a closer inspection of out work shows that.  We just read a lot and got some advice from builder acquaintances.  Also our inspector is really helpful and lets us know exactly what he wants to see happen.   So an update on the porches.  WE decided to go ahead and have them engineered so we can build them now.  Figured it's be a lot easier to properly detail the flashing if we do it now versus tacking the porches on later.  Lots of photos to bring you all up to date:


The spring needed a little work so we headed up the hill to get it closed in:

   

Sorry no before pictures, basically the spring was a small hollow against a bank with tin roofing over it.  we wanted to seal it up a little better so we made a dam out of an old aluminum swimming pool (came with eh place, very handy!) and some bulkhead fittings.:





The end result, just shy of 1 gallon per minute of very clear tasty cool water.  Not a whole lot of water but with the 55 gallon settling tank and an existing 1200 gallon storage tank it should keep up just fine.



This spring is quite a ways up the hill but luckily there is a logging road going up to it (hence the jeep).  There is probably a quarter mile of 1 inch poly pipe to get it down to the house.  We replaced a large chunk of that but a fair amount is lying on top of the ground.  A later project will be to replace that with new buried line.  Gravity flow water is quite nice! we get about 55 PSI pressure at the house and no pump!

 

Ok back to the house.  Julie framed up the hip room on the what we're calling the "addition" since we'd initially planned on jsut building the main two story portion and adding the side later.  This was supposed to be a simple shed roof but we thought a hip roof woudl look better and I think it was worth the extra work.  After a lot of head scratching and reading up (especially in fine home building) Julie figured out how to cut all the rafters for the hips:

 








Dad helped a lot!



We wanted to get the final grading done before the winter rains came (we've had a nice dry fall which was good for us this year!) so we brought in the big guns and hired a local earth mover.  He brought in his excavator, dump truck, and cat to bring the level up a little higher.  We put the house in a fairly low spot (not the best spot for a house but it was where we wanted it!) so we need a lot of fill to keep it from being in a pond and also to improve the looks a little.  The contracter found a good spot to get dirt form on the place and started moving it.











I was amazed at the difference it made in the feel of the place and also how fast the work went.  The contractor was a very good operator and was very efficient.  still I think it ended up being a couple thousand dollars worth of work.  I'm glad we were able to get dirt off the place rather htan trucking it in- I think there were 15 or twenty loads of dirt moved so that woudl have added up fast!

   




 



Offline tristan

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Re: Oregon 28x38 universal w/shed addition
« Reply #31 on: October 15, 2012, 08:50:51 AM »
Now onto exciting stuff- trusses!

We hired out all the roof work so we could get things dried in by winter. plus we rally didn't want to mess with trusses and roofing so high up!  setting the trusses took two hours and the whole roof took two guys (three to do the trusses) 7 days to get done.  Money well spent I think!












Our roof contractor Jim



I'm glad it's him up there and not me!



Julie is frantically priming cedar fascia boards so the will be ready for the roofers. 



We've found that while hiring out subs certainly helps move the project along, it also makes for busy time for us as we are helping out the contractors and making sure all the materials are ready for them. 

Not bad for a day's work!  I like help!





Julie put up soffits while the crew roofed.  3/8inch AC plywood with aluminum vents.  If we did it again I think he'd used stouter plywood for soffits- maybe 1/2 inch or 5/8.  That way you might not need a nailer in between trusses/rafters to support it.  We didn't use a nailer with the 3/8 and it worked ok but is not perfectly flat.  The fascia is full 2x6 rough sawn port-orford-cedar.  We didn't; do a subfascia and then a finish board on top- just kept it simple,  I figure the fewer pieces you put up the less likely you are to get water trapped behind things and rot them out.



The bottom chords on our trusses were 2x10 but we needed them deeper so we could blow in R-49 insulation (I think R-49 is way more insulation than we need in our fairly mild climate but that's what he code says).  So we needed to add a 2x4 on top of them.  Our attic floor will sit on these 2x4s.  They;re roughsawn because dad cut them on his sawmill. 



Our siding contractor brought out his Gradall early so the roofers could use it- very handy!



Our attic trusses.  with the 2x4s scabbed on top of the bottom chords we only have about 5'10" head room but I can stand up between the trusses  (I'm 6'4"). We haven;t cut in the gable end attic windows yet. 

 


All done with the roof.  Those cornice returns on the main roof were fairly time consuming for the roofers ($) and will probably rot out before anything else but I really wanted them!  We used Port-Orford cedar for all the exposed wood so it should last a while.

 

Poured piers for the porches.  2 feet by 2 feet and 10 inches deep with two layers of 7 inch OC rebar!  Seems over stout but what do I know.  BTW the porches needed to be engineered since they were deeper than 6 feet but ended up being fairly standard construction (thankfully).  The engineer initially thought we'd need to sink PT 6x6s into the ground for posts while we really wanted 4x4 posts to keep with the look of the place.  turned out ok in the end.  Engineering fees were $250.  Poured the footings using sackrete and an electric mixer.  Took and afternoon and a sixpack of beer, concrete isn't too bad! Most all the porch wood is either Port orford cedar or PT.

 

from the county road:



Julie still priming to keep up!












Ok fast forward.  another sub was brought on to do windows, exterior trim/siding.  Oregon code now requires a rainscreen siding or special draining housewrap.  I would have much ratter used good old felt but the inspector insisted on the new code.  Oh well, hopefully this newfangled housewrap works ok- I worry about moisture getting trapped behind the wrap but i suppose since we aren't taping the seams and our sheathing shows a lot of light we should be fine! Here's the product they're using, hydrogap. there are little raised plastic bumps that are supposed to let water drain.........hmmm.





The main 2-story section will be hardiplank lap siding but the "Addition" will be hardipanel with cedar battens to give a board and batten look.  We'll paint this section white and the main section slate blue/gray.  Folks seem a little skeptical bout this idea but I think it'll look good.

   

Julie likes the front porch already!















Offline MountainDon

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Re: Oregon 28x38 universal w/shed addition
« Reply #32 on: October 15, 2012, 04:07:10 PM »
Quote
WE decided to go ahead and have them engineered so we can build them now.  Figured it's be a lot easier to properly detail the flashing if we do it now versus tacking the porches on later.


IMO, a wise decision!   

Also a good decision on the truss roof installation, IMO.  I can'y imagine getting them up there w/o a crane.

Looking good!

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn’t mean it is good design.

Offline waggin

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Re: Oregon 28x38 universal w/shed addition
« Reply #33 on: October 15, 2012, 07:02:47 PM »
Very nice!  Love that you get about 55psi gravity fed from your spring and don't need a pump.  My spring is only a few feet above the cabin, so that wasn't an option.
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Offline Sassy

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Re: Oregon 28x38 universal w/shed addition
« Reply #34 on: October 16, 2012, 08:55:11 AM »
I'm impressed!  Looks awesome  [cool]  Way to go Julie!
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Offline dablack

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Re: Oregon 28x38 universal w/shed addition
« Reply #35 on: October 17, 2012, 04:11:09 PM »
The picture with Julie up in the attic adding the 2x4s, it looks like there is a 1x6 sitting on top of the gable end truss to support the barge rafter.  Is the gable end truss shorter than the other trusses?  Is the 1x6 cut into the gable end truss?  I'm about to do my barge rafters, that is why I'm asking.  I have trusses as well and I'm trying to figure out the best way to get it done. 

thanks
Austin

Offline tristan

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Re: Oregon 28x38 universal w/shed addition
« Reply #36 on: October 18, 2012, 12:25:07 PM »
yeah the gable end trusses came 1 1/2 inches shorter than the other trusses to allow the 2x lookouts.  Otherwise I suppose you'd have to notch them.  In this case we simply end nailed the lookouts into the last real truss top chord and into the barge rafter.

Offline tristan

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Re: Oregon 28x38 universal w/shed addition
« Reply #37 on: October 24, 2012, 08:14:48 AM »
ok siding is going up and the house is starting to have a face




Gutter are a MAJOR Upgrade with the rain we'd been having.  Siding guys are VERY happy


6 inch smooth haridiplank. i think it's a 4 1/2 inch exposure or so on the siding?  The hip addition part will be fake board (hardipanel) and real batten (port-Orford-cedar)





The primed hardiboard doesn't; look too bad!  I kinda wish we'd given more thought to the design of the front gable since it's the face of the house and you see it from the road and driveway.  I think the second story windows should have been a little taller and attic window should have been bigger and lower.  Oh well!



things are starting to get muddy- I think we'll jsut throw some grass on this winter to hold thigns together and work it smooth in the spring.  How do the rest of you in temperate (non-snowy) areas deal with new mud?



Woodstove is another major upgrade!






Offline tristan

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Re: Oregon 28x38 universal w/shed addition
« Reply #38 on: November 02, 2012, 09:37:21 AM »
outside's done except for paint!

next electrical, insulation, drywall- all hired out thankfully









window trim detail: head trim is 1 1/4 (final thickness) x 5 1/2 and side trim is 1" x 3 1/2 .  sill is full thickness 2x6 ripped in half wiht angle cuts and a saw kerf on the bottom to catch drips.  apron board under sill is another 1x 3 1/2 

I think i woudl have gone a quarter inch thicker on everything if i did it again to give a little more reveal on the hardiboard.  This was all done by Upper Valley Builders







Offline John Raabe

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Re: Oregon 28x38 universal w/shed addition
« Reply #39 on: November 02, 2012, 09:50:54 AM »
Generally looking quite stately. Good work.
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Offline Sassy

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Re: Oregon 28x38 universal w/shed addition
« Reply #40 on: November 07, 2012, 04:43:15 PM »
Looks wonderful! 
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Offline UK4X4

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Re: Oregon 28x38 universal w/shed addition
« Reply #41 on: November 08, 2012, 08:44:38 AM »
Dried in for winter - awsome !

Offline tristan

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Re: Oregon 28x38 universal w/shed addition
« Reply #42 on: January 08, 2013, 12:13:55 PM »
long time, no update. 

electrical was subbed out as was insulation and drywall







insulation was sprayed in fiberglass.  it looks like it'll work great but it got EVERYWHERE!













drywaller used edges around the exposed beams and this one bracket. 







Drywall is done now I'll try to take photos tonight.

 

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