Very nice - i am impressed. This is going to be an awesome spot for the family, I am sure 

Great points on the SIPs and slab-on-grade. That combination definitely shaves off a ton of framing time and foundation headaches when you're doing the heavy lifting yourself. Low-pitch asphalt is a smart, budget-friendly move too.
Totally agree on the cost segregation front.. it's a massive cheat code for freeing up cash flow if you're holding the property as a rental or investment. Just need to have REPS status if its a long term rental and of course need to materially participate. 

I saw you mentioned Cost Segregation Guys. I actually looked into them on my last build but ended up going with SMF Cost Segregation Advisors instead. I found SMF's process to be a bit smoother, mainly because they ran a free preliminary benefit analysis for me right out of the gate and I had a pretty nuanced tax circumstance as I needed to do a lookback study. It was incredibly helpful to see the exact estimated tax savings on paper before I had to commit or pay for the actual study and there was some adjustment they did to account for all the depreciation I didn't claim in the years prior.. 

Just throwing it out there as another option for anyone reading the thread who might be weighing their choices on the tax side. Good luck with the rest of the build!

See if this link works for you for: https://app.sketchup.com/app

They've really buried the free version (online only, and limited) but it still works for me when I don't need to export DWG's etc. 

It's been a while  so I thought I would toss out an update.

The foundation which is now about 23rds complete (the new foundation) and is entirely closed in now, has made a HUGE difference to overnight temperature swings and ease of keeping the cabin warm in the winter.  I know, I know, that was obvious but I didn't think it would make THAT much of a difference! ha ha

This spring we plan to finish the last 1 1/2 walls and add the foundation for the addition as well, which will be a 12x18 master and an 8x10 dinning area in an L shape around the East and South walls.  I used to have sketch up but it seems to no longer work and new versions they want you to pay or something....I might have to find something else so I can do a drawing.

We are also planning the first guest cabin which will be a D-log butt and pass style cabin in the 10x12 range.  Bascially a 'bedroom' cabin with a wood cookstove for heat, a bed, some chairs, maybe a counter of sorts and a power station to run things with a place to put a portable solar panel.  That way the power station and solar panel can be brought up when needed and removed when not there, making it secure

Meanwhile, my battle with the critters got a little higher tech

Mountain Don gave great advice.

I have had a Stiebel Eltron for almost 10 years. It runs on 240v and uses three 40 amp breakers. This is one of their bigger units, and in a cold climate. I use a pump to loop a descaler solution through it once a year.

In general, I have been satisfied with the unit. My only real complaint is that if you just want a low flow of hot water, the heater sometimes doesn't realize I am trying to draw hot water and won't turn on. They make all different sizes depending on your needs, though I am not sure if they offer a 120v unit.

Sorry, but this is an old topic and the depositry for the images is no longer active

I'm unable to see any of these photos in your post - any suggestions?  Thanks in advance! 

Version 4.3.3 - 02.08.2026
- Added the following Simpson Strong-Tie anchor bolts to the wall, column and shearwall modules: SABR58-24, SABR34-26, SABR78-28, SABR1-30, SABR114-32.



These new anchor bolts are included in the new Wood Construction Connectors Catalog (C-C-2026) for 2026.

https://www.strongtie.com/bolts_anchorbolts/sabr_bolt/p/sabr

These low poly versions of the anchor bolts are based on the models provided on Simpsons website.

I do not have any particular unit to recommend. However, when you are looking, there are some things to keep in mind.
1. It may be obvious, or not, but verify that the possible replacement is 120 volts and that the amps the replacement uses must not be more than your circuit can supply.
2. Look for a chart that lists the degrees of temperature rise at various flow rates. Check the coldest likely temperature of the incoming cold water and verify that the unit will provide hot enough water at whatever flow rate you need.  Many 120-volt on-demand water heaters are only capable of supplying 3/4 GPM while even the best low flow shower heads need over 1 GPM. Many require 2 GPM.

Does your power panel have the ability to deliver 240 VAC? 240 VAC is better for an on-demand water heater. Of course that would require some new wiring to the heater.

Hello,
I live in a tiny home and need to replace my water heater. My current one, which is only three years old, started leaking and caused significant damage. I'm considering switching to a tankless model this time.

My home measures 399 square feet, and the previous water heater was hardwired at 120V.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a suitable replacement? I live in TX