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31
General Forum / Re: Steel is currently cheaper than engineered lumber
« Last post by Don_P on October 16, 2020, 04:19:50 AM »
Even bag mix concrete has been catch of the day pricing. In the past month I've bought at $4.50/bag, $6.50, and yesterday back down to $5.29. Treated is available here but expensive, luckily been sawing our own framing, sheathing is running about 3-4x pre covid pricing. Steel beat lvl's on another recent project.
32
Owner-Builder Projects / Re: 20x30 Western Maine
« Last post by jsahara24 on October 16, 2020, 01:56:16 AM »
Looks and sounds good!  Anxious to see some more pictures of your progress. 

Thanks!
33
Referral Links / Re: Medeek Electrical Plugin
« Last post by Medeek on October 15, 2020, 09:28:09 AM »
Version 1.2.1b - 10.15.2020
- Draw Wire Tool input extended to two options: Points, Edges

Tutorial 5 - Wiring (11:15 min.)

https://youtu.be/DAYZf3cDZhk
34
Owner-Builder Projects / Re: 20x30 in NE Wisconsin
« Last post by Nate R on October 15, 2020, 06:15:41 AM »
9/30: Finished putting up the trusses. No small task to do alone! Nearly 24 foot long, 6+ feet tall, and about 75 lbs each. Used MiTek “Stabilizers” for spacing and holding them in place on top, and used Timberlok 6” screws for the truss to top plate connection. Truss specs call for max of 155 lbs of uplift each, and these screws are rated for 410 lbs pull through in a SPF top plate.





35
Referral Links / Re: Medeek Electrical Plugin
« Last post by Medeek on October 14, 2020, 09:35:50 AM »
Version 1.2.1 - 10.14.2020
- Added a Custom Wire Library to the Global Settings which allows user defined rectangular or circular cross section wires/cables/conduit.
- Enabled the Wiring Tool with three additional context menu functions: Edit Wire Assembly, Regen Wire Assembly, Edit Wire Path.
- Added a 4th dimensioning layer specifically for wire callouts in the Layers tab of the Global Settings.
- Added the following parameters to the General tab of the Global Settings: Wire Label Callout, Wire Label Prefix, Circle Segments.





I think I need a few additional tools to round out this wiring module and make it more intuitive and efficient to use:

- Move Segment Tool (rather than having to edit the wire path directly)
- Integrate the Estimating tool with the wiring statistics
36
Owner-Builder Projects / Re: 20x30 Western Maine
« Last post by RIjake on October 13, 2020, 05:28:33 AM »
   It's been quite a while (years actually)since I've posted here.  Life has taken some unexpected turns that have recently landed me here as my full time residence.
   Here's a bit of an update to my house for anyone who may be interested in building a camp/house/cottage like this. Quite a lot has been done since my last post but it's not 100% yet.  Obviously, this is based on the 20x30 house plans.  The house sits on a concrete foundation with about 5' of headroom.  Now let me just get this out of the way right off the bat.  The decision to not put an 8' deep basement is one that will haunt me for the rest of my life life.  To anyone contemplating their foundation choices, just do it.  Spend the money for the full basement.  You'll never regret it.
   The framing is 2x6, fully insulated.  I went with 10' walls with 8' first floor ceilings.  This gives additional headroom and usable floor space on the second floor.  The roof is a 12 pitch with metal roofing. The house is wired for grid power but is not currently connected, at the moment my power comes from a small off grid solar system with a generator.  More on the electrical later in this post  It has a 250' drilled well, conventional plumbing and a rock and pipe septic system.
   I made some changes to the interior layout shown on the Country plans.  I went with an open layout with 2 bedrooms on the first floor.  As I add some interior pictures in the future you'll be able to see that.
   Here's what it looks like right now.

   
    The list of items will be completed soon
   -Bring in grid power.  I'm about 900' from the closest pole.  After speaking to a utility contractor, I think I'm going to go above ground with poles
    down my driveway until about 150' from the house, then I'll go under ground.  I own a Case 580 backhoe, so I can do the digging.  This will
    save a lot of money.
   -Finish floor on first level.  Well, since I'm in Maine, wood would seem appropriate.  Probably old school wide pine, face nailed with forged cut nails. 
     I love that look.
   -Some sort of permanent heating.  My wood stove has been serving me well and will continue to do so into the future, however my work schedule
     has me away from home 3 days out of every 8.  For those three days I need to keep the house at about 50 degrees.  Since I already have propane
     in the house for stove and water heater, I'm considering a blue flame heater in the basement.  Again, I want to do this inexpensively and am
    looking to just keep the house above freezing while I'm away.
   -Upgrade my battery to a LiPo battery.  This will give me backup with out running the generator when the grid goes down.
   -A kitchen island with dishwasher.
   -Miscellaneous finish trim.
37
General Forum / Re: buying land
« Last post by NathanS on October 12, 2020, 04:23:37 PM »
Thanks for that info (I loved watching your build, it turned out great).  I'm about 40 miles east of there, closer to the Hudson.  I went to college in Oneonta eons ago.  Love it up there.

Everyone I've talked to says I need to bring in two feet of fill since I've only got two feet of usable soil before you hit clay.  If I can get the elevation right they say I can do a gravity system - but that's going to be challenging since the lot is very level.  None have mentioned a shallow trench system.  First I'm hearing of it. 

I probably don't need to tell you that the real estate "professionals" in upstate NY try to sell you anything without much concern about whether what they say is true or not.

The market is so hot right now it's difficult to get soil engineers to respond.  They're all so busy

Who knew buying land would be so complicated.

2 feet of fill should mean shallow trench. You would absolutely want to talk to an engineer before signing to buy. My experience with realtors was not good, the best of them seem to lie by omission.

Here's the NYS design guide for septic. It is worth a quick read to understand what is/should be going on. I believe section 9.12 is the shallow trench system. Chapter 4 is really good info to have in mind too.

https://www.health.ny.gov/environmental/water/drinking/wastewater_treatment_systems/docs/design_handbook.pdf


I wish I had spent more time learning about soil & excavation before my build. Although it is such a huge undertaking, it's easy to say that now.

That is interesting to hear the market is really moving. There is a big long driveway going in down the hill from me.. looks $$$ in an area without a whole lot of it.
38
General Forum / Re: buying land
« Last post by archimedes on October 12, 2020, 03:40:28 PM »
Sounds like Mardin/Volusia fragipan soil series.

You don't want to apply for a mound system, you want an engineer that will design a "shallow trench system" which may be what you're describing, that doesn't require any special approval.

If this property is in the Chenango/Otsego or surrounding area I can recommend a engineer.

For a shallow trench system you want your excavator to regrade the land - if you're on a slope, push the soil from behind the house in front of it to create the additional depth, without having to bring in too much fill. In 2016 a regular septic system here would cost 5k and a shallow trench 7.5k. A sand mound would be a disaster because of all the fill that needs to be brought in.


In another month or so you will see how wet the land gets if you're not in a rush to buy. Hardpan soils are fairly challenging, all things being equal I would go for soil series like Chenango, Valois, Howard, Lansing, Scio.. some of this is from a farming context though. Lots of variables.

Thanks for that info (I loved watching your build, it turned out great).  I'm about 40 miles east of there, closer to the Hudson.  I went to college in Oneonta eons ago.  Love it up there.

Everyone I've talked to says I need to bring in two feet of fill since I've only got two feet of usable soil before you hit clay.  If I can get the elevation right they say I can do a gravity system - but that's going to be challenging since the lot is very level.  None have mentioned a shallow trench system.  First I'm hearing of it. 

I probably don't need to tell you that the real estate "professionals" in upstate NY try to sell you anything without much concern about whether what they say is true or not.

The market is so hot right now it's difficult to get soil engineers to respond.  They're all so busy

Who knew buying land would be so complicated.
39
Owner-Builder Projects / Re: 20x30 in NE Wisconsin
« Last post by Nate R on October 12, 2020, 01:53:46 PM »
9/29: Finally, a day with no real rain, just a few sprinkles!  Working alone, though. Was able to finish up attaching the rest of the lower sheathing pieces, put on the top plates, and start installing trusses! Was a relief to see them fit OK, as the foundation size screw-up, and our desired overhang ended up with some oddball one-off truss sizing. 

40
Owner-Builder Projects / Re: 20x30 in NE Wisconsin
« Last post by Nate R on October 12, 2020, 01:44:08 PM »
9/28: Forecast called for 0.10" of rain over 2 hours. Was really 0.77" of rain over 8 hours......Ugh.   That day was just me and my wife, my other help went back to their own lives. We were able to get the 2nd gable wall fixed, and then put more roof sheathing on.




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