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Owner-Builder Projects / Re: 14x32 in NH Lakes Region
« Last post by DavidRaftery on Today at 08:19:16 AM »
Question on insulation:

I currently have R19 under my rafters. I'm thinking of increasing the insulation by adding 2 inches of rigid foam on the inside. 2 inch  blue polyisocyanurate insulation has a R value of 13. Can this be used inside or just outside on foundations? The pink XPS is R10 for a 2 inch thickness. I could use furring strips to hold it in place and secure them to the rafters with 3 1/2 inch construction screws. I want to attach the furring strips parallel to the rafters because I want to install T&G pine horizontally in the future.

Would this work? Am I missing anything here?

Thanks,
Dave
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Owner-Builder Projects / Re: Dogtrot at Hightop
« Last post by Serviceprinter on Yesterday at 09:09:06 PM »
Awesome information.The small cabin is civil war era and it had 10,000 carpet tacks probably older than me that I removed from the inside.  A strange thing.  The gentleman that drilled my water well was the grandson of one of the owners that purchased it around 1890 and it was already erected when it bought it.I have to pour a concrete cap at the floor level to continue on up through the first floor and up to the roof.It's very interesting and informative posting. I want to make a set of forks for it someday too.I will share in this post. Thank you.
 
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Referral Links / Re: Foundation Plugin for SketchUp
« Last post by Medeek on Yesterday at 04:20:27 PM »
Tutorial 4 - Slab Depressions for Slab-on-Grade Foundations (9:35 min.):



View model here:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/78b4b1c5-8ccd-4a35-a936-ff94dee23bc9/Tutorial-4-Slab-Depressions
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Referral Links / Re: Foundation Plugin for SketchUp
« Last post by Medeek on Yesterday at 01:59:52 PM »
Version 1.3.1 - 07.19.2019
- Added slab depressions for rectangular and polygon slab-on-grade foundations.
- Enabled editing, moving and deleting of slab depressions for all slab-on-grade foundations.
- When construction callouts and subbase material is enabled, the volume of the subbase material is displayed beneath the foundation label (currently only slab-on-grade foundation assemblies have this feature available).



The slab depression tool can also be used to cut thru holes into the slab, as shown.

Note that additional work still needs to be done to properly modify rebar and mesh for slab depressions.  Currently there is no logic in place to modify the perimeter or slab rebar when a slab depression is utilized within a slab-on-grade foundation. 

View model here:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/6881b3bf-3ecf-4d3a-9cee-f8dd1cc3c11d/Slab-Depression-Test-2
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Owner-Builder Projects / Re: 16 by 28 Cabin Build
« Last post by Migraine Craftsman on Yesterday at 12:43:31 PM »
In this vid I discuss the price of the electrician. Plus a quick tour of the interior framing.



 c*
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Owner-Builder Projects / Re: Floor joists on beam or hangers
« Last post by ChugiakTinkerer on Yesterday at 11:53:41 AM »
Welcome to the forum!

Residential code allows either way.  If there will be any plumbing or other utilities installed, having the joists resting on the beams allows for a little more usable space under the floor.

Speaking of code, make sure you know what your county expects as far as compliance with code.  Piers and beams don't meet code for a foundation, and your jurisdiction may or may not require it.
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Owner-Builder Projects / Re: NE Oregon 20 x 30+ 1.5 story
« Last post by NathanS on Yesterday at 08:44:03 AM »
Your place looks great.

For what it's worth, I used TWP stain which is a penetrating stain. From when I did my homework it seemed very highly regarded by the pros, of course there is some regional availability that plays into it. We ordered it online. I am happy with it, and when recoating just a light bleach solution spray down that takes maybe 30 minutes for the whole house, and then recoat. I dipped every board and coated every cut.

I'd also say more important than any finish is to never put siding tight up against a wall that has insulation in it. It's basically a simulated ground contact environment - people often mistakenly blame paint peeling/bubbling failures on the paint itself, when it is really the insulation causing the problem. If there are budget constraints, I would do a rain screen and then either let it weather naturally or stain the exposed side in a few years.


Rough sawn you will get a lot of absorbency once the wood is dry. The planed side on our siding needed 1-2 yrs of UV beating on it to really become absorbent, and I have started restaining with the hope that I will now get 5-7 years per coat, possibly only 3-4 on the south side which takes major UV beating.
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Owner-Builder Projects / Re: NE Oregon 20 x 30+ 1.5 story
« Last post by CabinNick on Yesterday at 06:33:39 AM »
Thanks for the help Don. 

Yes, I have not once regretted my decision to hire a contractor for the roof.  Those guys do this for a living and they were still not comfortable working on that roof; the 90+ temps that day did not help either. 

Ok, so here are my latest pictures to finally catch up with where we are now with our cabin build.



We used ice and snow shield along the lower edge of the roof and then Safeguard roof felt.  Our contractor specifically requested the Safeguard to make it easier/safer to work on the 12/12 pitch. 

After the roof sheathing and underlayment went on, they finished sheathing the upper walls, put the house wrap up and installed the three 2nd floor windows. 













We are putting standing seam metal roofing on but it will not be delivered for another week or two.  Using charcoal gray color for the roof.  The trim will fully enclose the trim board and the soffits will be vented SmartSoffit (24"x8' sheets of pre-primed OSB). 

We have 13 windows in the cabin; with 8 of them being 15 sqft or larger.  I found a smoking deal on Milgard and Jeld-Wen windows at our local lumber yard during their annual warehouse clean out sale.  Paid $25-40 per window for 15 windows.  I was only able to use 9 of them but I should be able to sell the windows I have left at enough profit to pay the difference for the windows I am buying new.  The only down side is I have been storing them in my shop for the last two years.  By the time I put the windows in I will have probably moved them 20+ times. 

Now I am taking a couple weeks off of building.  Had to go back to work after taking 4 weeks vacation (have been saving up for 3 years...), let the body rest, and try to maintain my marriage/family!  Later this summer I will put the rest of the windows in, get the siding up and finish the interior stairs.  After that, I will be out of funds for the year and put the rest off until next summer. 
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Owner-Builder Projects / Floor joists on beam or hangers
« Last post by Kruppstahl on Yesterday at 04:50:41 AM »
Howdy,  I'm new here.  I'm positive this has been covered elsewhere, But... should 2x8 floor joists spaced 16"OC rest on the beam? or, what are the advantages to using joist hangers attached to the Beam?  planning a small 30x30 framed cabin built on pier and beams.  Piers spaced 10.66 feet apart.  Triple 2x10 beams.  Location is southeast Oklahoma, not alot of snow load there, probably more uplift issues than anything.   I'm open to suggestions from ya'll thanks.
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Owner-Builder Projects / Re: NE Oregon 20 x 30+ 1.5 story
« Last post by Don_P on July 17, 2019, 06:06:34 PM »
That all sounds good on the siding. We're prepping red and white oak for B&B siding on a barn, I'm going to use deck screws for greater withdrawal strength, although it has been drying in the barn for almost 2 years oak has bodacious pulling strength. Dense woods move more with moisture cycling. We're just using borate on everything, they want the old weathered look but I want to at least keep the bugs at bay. One note on linseed oil, raw linseed oil never really dries. In my humid climate it attracts pollen and dirt then molds and turns black and gummy. Boiled linseed oil is either boiled, or has chemical driers added to it that polymerize it. It doesn't have those issues. It is probably less durable than the other finishes mentioned but is easily applied, labor is the big cost though rather than materials. Wood is always trying to reach equilibrium with the relative humidity of its surroundings, which is why we try to acclimate wood to its final environment for as long as possible, whenever possible. That is obviously a constantly moving target and moisture change is what causes dimensional change which is part of why finishes fail, the sun also drives moisture change by heating the wood and UV is another finish killer. A water repellant finish helps keep the moisture cycling band narrower than unfinished wood which helps preserve the wood, I don't win all discussions with clients obviously. If a moisture meter is hitting 5% on air dried material in the US its probably time for a better meter.
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