I can't help you with linking them but I got the properties and viewed them. It is similar to our high tunnel which we clear when it snows and keep a knife ready to slash plastic if the snow looks like it is going to get ahead of us and collapse it. I would not bear anything on that frame.

With the orientation the north side is not doing anything for solar gain and is contributing to heat loss. I understand your idea. I would be tempted to frame it as a lean to greenhouse by building a framed 3 sided room on the north side and supporting the ridge on that frame, removing the north half of the bents and use them for another similar greenhouse. The open, 4th side, is open to the south and has a series of posts and beams under the ridge to support its roof and the greenhouse ridge.

Some friends have one that is similar to that, the north wall is dug into the hillside and there are stacks of black cans full of water as a heat sink against that back wall, it works well. They've turned what would be a heat loss wall into a heat storage wall.

Now on the comment that he doesn't have the winter markets... he can't sell greens in winter when people are craving anything fresh and green? He's missing a market there somewhere, we have people wanting to jump to the head of the line. We aren't paying for heat, its just a high tunnel so it may be he cannot find a market that can support the overhead, I can sure appreciate that.

Hi Tinkerer
I can't find my URL? I emailed pictures from a phone to me. I then made JPG as someone told me. I then needed a host, my SIL told me I could use drop box, which didn't work for me. But when I bring up the photo in dropbox there is no url except if I select the item>share>make file, it copies the URL. I can insert this after using the image button but it disappears when posted.

Is there someway to put the picture somewhere to get the URL to copy?

I went thru this before, whenever, quiet a few folks got me on Photobucket and I had an album. Makes me feel dumb . 

Mike,

For now, you can just paste the URL for the image into the text of your message.  It will show up as a link that we can click on.

I'm going to try dropbox for photos



Mike

Now I'm not sure what google told you 
That is simply a tool to give you leverage to twist the joists into place, it will not remain in the finished project in any way.

Let's back up and explain the options here. Since this is a performance enhancement there are several levels of performance you can get to. The stiffest floor would be to install the additional rows of girders. If you prefer a very solid floor or intend to install tile at some point, that would be the way to go. At the least stiff end of that spectrum would be to double up the joists with 2x8's. Deeper joists are considerably stiffer than shallow ones, so each time you step up to a deeper joist the stiffness improves. Because of your 2x8 end bearing depth I suggested a compromise of using 2x10's. This stays within the notching rules which are about horizontal shear, the splitting I mentioned above, and gives what I believe will be sufficient stiffness to be satisfactory but it will not be concrete stiff. Hope that clarifies your options better.