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Owner-Builder Projects / Re: 20x30 in NE Wisconsin
« Last post by MountainDon on Yesterday at 12:14:22 PM »
Good to see thinning being done. By western drought climate conditions and change there are still too many trees. That does vary with the local conditions.
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General Forum / Re: Roof Rafter Question
« Last post by ChugiakTinkerer on Yesterday at 10:28:07 AM »
Yep.  Need to have the junction over a support.

Are your short rafters long enough to span the lower portion?  Could you slide them down the approximately 6 feet and have them reach from the eave to the mid support?  Then you would just need a shorter rafter for the upper span.
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Owner-Builder Projects / Re: 20x30 in NE Wisconsin
« Last post by Nate R on Yesterday at 08:48:24 AM »
In early 2017, I hired an independent forester after some advice from our local DNR forester. Our red pines were overdue for a thinning. The forester marked trees for cutting and put the job out for bid to loggers.

They cut 440+ trees (out of 1100+!) on our 4 acres, getting 101 cords of wood for both paper and lumber out. This also opened up a spot to put a shed, longer driveway, and the cabin.

Based on the mill it went to, some of our trees may have ended up as lumber at Menards.  :)








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Owner-Builder Projects / Re: 20x30 in NE Wisconsin
« Last post by Nate R on Yesterday at 08:24:58 AM »
In 2016, we built our continously ventilated outhouse.
(Thread here:URL )

We also got a fire pit installed.








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General Forum / Re: Roof Rafter Question
« Last post by akwoodchuck on Yesterday at 06:32:06 AM »
No, your rafters have to break directly over a support....gravity is a pain but at least it's predictable  ;D
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Owner-Builder Projects / Re: 20x30 in NE Wisconsin
« Last post by Nate R on Yesterday at 03:11:18 AM »
Late 2015: Bought a Jayco Camper and pulled a few hundred saplings in a driveway opening left from previous logging...and got the camper set there.









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General Forum / Roof Rafter Question
« Last post by noelk on September 16, 2020, 04:49:18 PM »
Hi All,
I am in the middle of enclosing part of the deck into a screened in room. I changed my mind about the roof after ordering the lumber and now have a situation where the longest pieces I have aren't long enough for a full rafter span but too long past the middle beam (see picture). I know the right thing to do is overlap over the middle beam but this means cutting long pieces off. The current length is just short of the second beam. Is there anything that can be done to extend the rafters without cutting them back to the middle beam? I am trying to save on the wood. Would appreciate any thoughts.
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Owner-Builder Projects / 20x30 in NE Wisconsin
« Last post by Nate R on September 16, 2020, 06:02:23 AM »
I wanted to chronicle the build of my cabin. I’ve decided not to spend a ton of time writing the justification and philosophical stance behind every decision up front, but I’m sure some things will come up! Feel free to ask questions, I’m happy to answer anything. Trying to be very up front about my costs, too.

Design generals:

20x30 footprint on a concrete slab. About 100 SF of this will be covered porch. No loft, but scissors trusses for a cathedral ceiling. (6/12 outside, 3/12 inside.) 2 foot overhangs. Separated bedroom. Off-Grid (for now?) with wood stove for heat as well as a propane heater of some sort. No indoor plumbing, outhouse is already permitted and doing well.

Location: NE WI, family owns a larger plot of land a 5 minute walk away. 4 Acres of planted red pine, about 60 years old. Climate Zone 6, nearly zone 7.

Timeline so far:
Late 2015: Bought land (2 acre parcel), bought camper, had it set in small driveway on land from previous tree thinning.

2016: Firepit put in, got permit for and built outhouse/privy. (see post here: )    Bought 2nd 2 acre parcel (next door) to make 4 acres total.

2017: Red pines were logged/thinned (well overdue!). Also cleared a spot for a cabin, and used the proceeds to buy a shed.

2018: Not much new that year.

2019: Got my plans and building permit. Site was prepped, and foundation poured. Driveway graveled. Property endured a windstorm as well, heaviest in 40-50 years in the direct area. Lost a few trees, have a couple bent ones.

2020: Plan to  build and sheathe walls, put up roof trusses and roof sheathing, and add shingles. Other than that, install a door, and get window package delivered. Not sure what else I’ll get done this year.

2021?: After finishing more projects at home, hoping to complete the exterior. (Window and door installs, siding, trim, soffits/fascia, gutters, skylights and wood stove chimney…propane heater too?)

Here's a few floorplan images. (Floorplanner.com has been great!)






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Plans Support / Re: Help- Do I need a structural engineer if I purchased CP plans?
« Last post by Dougwadsworh on September 15, 2020, 10:24:33 AM »
Update: my engineer said that due to the good detail level on the CP plans, it saved me $250 from his normal cost, so that is good (the cost of the plans recouped).
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Chelan County, WA building dept said I needed a structural engineer to approve the structure and trusses, when I took these plans I bought to an engineer, he said that WA state law forbids them from certifying plans made by someone else,so he would have to totally re-do all the plans himself.   Is this true,does that law exist or does he just want to charge me more than is necessary by totally redoing the plans himself?  He quoted me $2k to redo the plans with structure approval, does that seem like a good price?  Thank you
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