Ceiling Planking Options

[SansPlans]

So, the time has come to cover up the ceiling joists with something.

We noticed some stuff like this pretty cheap
http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/mat/795163538.html

(more similar stuff here)
http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/search/mat?query=cedar&minAsk=min&maxAsk=max

But while I was at work the wifey called my dad and he went on and on about how you could never use that type of wood for ceiling planking. Something about tongue and groove, "what are you doing at a fencing yard", "it'll cup" and too big of gaps were his concerns, to name a few.

But I recall seeing somewhere some people had used this type of wood successfully, sometimes even used fence boards though these are not used.

What are my options for covering up my ceiling joists if I don't want to use sheetrock?  I would like to stay away from 4x8 sheets just cuz that seems like a hassle to handle myself.

Thanks for any tips.

[Redoverfarm]

SansPlans most who use wood go for the T&G 3/4" paneling.  Varing lengths.  I am about redy to pre-finish 1X6 for mine a v-groove style.  When coupled to each other it gives the illusion of being individual 2" wide boards.  A lot of people go for varing widths 8",10" and 12" being the rough demensions. As like finished lumber it is slightly narrower.

[glenn kangiser]

I used pine boards and made my own shiplap out of it with 2 skill saws.  Not too hard.  Set one for the sides and one for the edge.  Do one side flip do the same side again and they will be on opposite sides just like real shiplap.  I set the edge one on the center and went about 7/8 deep for 12" wide wet lumber - shrinkage about 5/8 per foot of width.

[MountainDon]

I don't think I ever saw a list that stated you can use these things but not these, for a ceiling.

Gyproc is used a lot because it has become the suburban norm.

As long as it won't fall on the heads of those in the room is the only real rule.

[SansPlans]

Thanks for the responses guys. 

So if I use this cedar will it sag or fall down or cup and crack?  I like the way it looks, it's cheap and in small pieces so it should be easy for one guy to do.

I don't want to use sheetrock because I'm worried about it cracking and shifting and a rat peeing on it or something and getting nasty. In general I just don't like it and wouldn't want to work w/ it if I can avoid it.

Glen, do you have any pics you could point me to that will help me visualize the cuts you refer to?

Does making the shiplap cuts keep the wood from cupping?  I think this stuff is pretty stable, they use it on high end fences (it's 1x6x6 western red cedar we're looking at now) and it sits outside for thirty years and doesn't really warp much, but I want any input and tips I can get before I put tons of work into it and end up with something I wish I hadn't done.

Thanks everyone!

[MountainDon]

One of the things to be considered is whether or not what you use will remain as air and dirt tight as possible. You don't really want a bunch of little air spaces opening up as the wood dries. Hence the reason for Glenn's self made shiplap boards. Plain boards, red cedar or whatever will MTL end up with spaces between them. Shiplap, T&G are solutions to that probelm. Something to consider....

A neighbor used 4x8 sheets 3/8" thick of plywood, grooved or beaded to appear like 2 " wide T&G boards. He used 1x4 battens to cover all the joints. We may do the same.   

[glenn kangiser]

Try this - cut the edges first and if you have 2 saws set one for each cut.  You could get by with about 5/8 on a 6 inch board - edge cut.  Less on dry wood.

[muldoon]

A shiplap is just two rabbits on opposing sides. 

Another approach to shiplap would be to use the table saw with a dado blade.  Set the height of the blade and fence and just pass them down (featherboard would be good to keep downward pressure).  If you have access to a jointer, many have shiplapping attachments.  Finally, you can use a router with the fence on the edge of the board, but a router table would be easier to use for as many boards as your looking at.  If you were to use the skillsaw approach glenn mentioned, I would try to make a jig for it to make it easier to be consistent. 

The cupping/shrink/swell of those boards will be mostly related to the moisture amount within them when installed and environment afterwards.  (a lived in home with consistent temp and humidity level will fair better than a remote part time home where they vary).  The use of shiplap or tongue and groove is just a mechanism to keep them looking tight and hide any gaps as they expand, the wood still swells and shrinks.  Alot of the higher end siding will be kiln dried which removes the moisture. 

Sagging and falling down will only occur if it isn't fastened in very well.  I would think a brad nailer hitting every joist would hold it for decades. 

[glenn kangiser]

I found a couple of inconveniences with a couple of those methods but - you are right - they can be good.

Keep in mind that I was shiplapping long boards - 12 to 16 feet.  I burned out 2 routers - heavy loads for a long time.

Running long boards on a dado on a table saw or shaper is hard to impossible with one person - possibly OK with proper guides and supports though.

I found I had a lot less sawdust - chips etc cutting the strip with the saws and since I was moving the saw on the board it was pretty easy to stay in the right place.  Down side - the cords drag and tangle.

[MountainDon]

One other thing to remember when using shiplaps or T&G...

... and that is about finishing the wood. If there is expansion and contraction going on with changes in humidity there may be enough movement to cause problems if the wood is finished (stain or paint) after it's installed. It's possible to get enough movement so there is an uncolored strip that gets revealed as the wood shrinks. That's why we prestained all the T&G on the gazebo we built last year. The humidity ranges from extended periods at 85%+ down to extended periods in the "teens" or lower. I can see the differences in the way the screen door fits.

[glenn kangiser]

True, Don- wood that I put in wet and tight now has up to 5/8 gaps (under the 7/8 shiplap joint - 1/4" left lapped ...a good way to use wet wood though).

[John Raabe]

In our rough cabin (the first of the Little House projects) we used butt edged 1x hemlock (that started out wet) as wall and ceiling finish. This is rustic and spans only 16" to 24" and it certainly hasn't sagged. We put up black 4 mil poly as a vapor barrier and to hide the open joints and knotholes.



Step by Step construction of this old chestnut.

PS - Nice detail Glenn on how to make homemade shiplap. 

[glenn kangiser]

Thanks John. 

The cabin looks good even without shiplap.  My first section is the same as yours.  It's good enough for the girls I go with.

[SansPlans]

Wow, thanks for all the great responses and visuals.  We picked through a sampling of the wood for sale and some of it was nice but over all I think I better pass on this option. I may still do some kind of tongue and groove planking but most likely will not be this cedar stuff.

Thanks again for the input!