Diary of a 20x24 cabin going up in NH

[glenn kangiser]

Hardware cloth is the wire screen that is welded and galvanized - comes in 1/4" squares and 1/2" squares - other sizes.

[peteh2833]

Dave, what did you do to fire proof behind the woodstove???

[nickolekidd]

Wow this all looks great keep up the great post.

Nickole 

[dmlsr]

we put cement board screwed to the studs ,then a 1 inch air gap .We cut strips of the cement board to make up the gap. then more cement board. I hope that is clear for u

[dmlsr]

thank  you  nickolekidd

[peteh2833]

Ya, everything looks good. You screwed a piece of cement board to the studs then ripped down pieces to use as spacers then screwed another piece of cement board to the spacers. Sound right.....

[dmlsr]

you got it. 1 inch air gap

[peteh2833]

Thanks Dave. I'm starting the framing on my place on Monday. If I have any ?'s do you mind if I ask??? Pete

[dmlsr]

anytime

[deedonke2]

dave,you got to be proud of the work and great turn out on your cabin/camp.looks awesome,congradulations.may have miss it but what did you use exterior board/batten,and interior walls.loved the idea on angle/iron for beam ties what size?Ito am planning to build a cabin in north louisanato live in.I plan on using some of your ideas hope you don'T MIND also me asking question THANKS!!!!

[glenn kangiser]

Great idea with the cement board, Dave.  Gap at the bottom for air flow to enhance cooling too, I assume.

[dmlsr]

deedonkes
The angle iron is 2x2x6. It was alot of work and cost a lot of $$$$ but i would do it again. The outside is 12 inch roughcut with 2 inch batten. Inside is also 12 inch but is planed smooth. Use as many ideas as you like. cant wait so see your place

Glenn

It was open at first but  the stones dont really get the warm so when i completed the cement it got filled in

[glenn kangiser]

Thanks Dave.

[peteh2833]

Dave, How far apart did you space your loft floor joists and what size flooring in the loft did you use? It looks like 3/4 flooring. Thanks Pete

[dmlsr]

16 on center and rough cut planed both sides down to 3/4 inch

[peteh2833]

Would you recommend planing both sides. I was going to plane only the floor side.

[MountainDon]

I believe that falls into the category of personal choice. Unplaned would be more rustic and would soak up more finish.   

[peteh2833]

Thats what I figured. Thanks

[dmlsr]

we did both sides so that the floor would be even to walk on . We did not want to be banging our toes and or triping .

[peteh2833]

Thanks. I haven't decided yet on rough cut 2x6 material or T&G 2x6. I was told by John R that I need to use the 2x6 T&G to make the floor one structual unit.

[Redoverfarm]

peteh2833  2 by T&G is nice but I have found one draw back.  Normally during milling they will hold the V groove tighter to the planer and the surface is uniform. There is usually a little difference in elevation on the flooring side.  Not that much but still noticable.  Same goes for the flooring side of the T&G.  The V-groove fits pretty good but the flooring or flat side not as tight with gaps.  You can't draw them any tighter because the T&G have already bottomed out.

Remember that any unplained surface will hold dust and dirt.  Not a big issue now but later it might be important when you try to keep it clean.  In addition the wear factor of rough lumber is not as good as protected finish not to mention splinters if they are in an area where you would be in contact with it.

[peteh2833]

I was going to use rough cut 2x8 with it planed on the floor side and leave the underside rough. Would it be ok to use 2x8 that isn't T&G?

[MountainDon]

The problem with anything that will be movement of the planks as they "work" with walking across and other movement. They also will not form as strong a floor.

The inevitable shrinking will also cause gaps between planks here and there. That will cause dirt to filter down below.

[glenn kangiser]

They will do as Don said - I have full 2x material on the bridge between the kitchen and bedroom - some wider than 12" and it does move without the TG.  The gap is also a problem as we will have a root cellar below one section.

[peteh2833]

Ok thanks for the info. The 2x8 without the T&G is alot cheaper though. I don't think the amish mill can put a tongue and groove on it.