truss to wall top connection

[dablack]

My trusses should be coming in Wednesday or Thursday this week. 

I spoke with the engineer at the truss manufacturer and he is telling me that all I need is to toe nail the trusses to the top of the walls. 

That doesn't seem like enough of a connection to resist uplift.  The trusses are going to be catalievered off the front of the house by 4.5' and it worries me that it will also work well as a giant wind scoop. 

Are there some sort of brackets that would work better?

thanks
Austin

[Erin]

Yes!  You live in Tornado Alley.

Get hurricane ties.  They're cheap.

[rick91351]

Couple the truss companies here supply them and require them. 

[Redoverfarm]

My trusses should be coming in Wednesday or Thursday this week. 

I spoke with the engineer at the truss manufacturer and he is telling me that all I need is to toe nail the trusses to the top of the walls. 

That doesn't seem like enough of a connection to resist uplift.  The trusses are going to be catalievered off the front of the house by 4.5' and it worries me that it will also work well as a giant wind scoop. 

Are there some sort of brackets that would work better?

thanks
Austin

I believe there is a Simpson "H8" tie that would work for you.  They are about .50 a piece.  Here is what I am referring to

http://www.mudsupply.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=977&gclid=CKCbkLXd9rECFYRxOgodyhIALw

[dablack]

Ok, I'm glad it isn't just me!  I like the looks of that bracket that Redover posted.  That will make me feel much better knowing that I have those built in.

Austin

[John Raabe]

Here is another way to make the wall to truss connection.  TimberLOK is a self-driving structural screw.


The 6" screw is driven from the inside bottom of the top plates. These screws can beef up lots of other connections as well.

http://www.fastenmaster.com/details/product/timberlok-heavy-duty-wood-screw.html

[dablack]

That thing is impressive!  I will look into that too. 

[davidj]

I'm gonna try the timberlok's for holding down trusses on the shed I'm working on.   For someone who is not that good with a hammer they've got to be a lot quicker than putting in 15 or so nails for each bracket.  And I keep hitting situations where the H8's or whatever get in the way of stuff like blocking. 

I recently checked out a little cabin built by some high-end builders from Truckee (where they're pretty tight on code - CA regulations + lots of snow + earthquakes all combined).  Those guys threw these kind of screws in all over the place even thought it was a 200 sq ft building with no inspections.

[dablack]

Yeah, I'm really leaning this way.  I love screws and like you said, I think the brackets would get in the way sometimes. 

[dablack]

Yes, I went with the timber loks and they work great.  I picked them up at Lowes and there is a couple of videos on youtube on how to use them.  I found my battery impact couldn't drive them, but my big 1/2 drill did with ease.  The best part is, I marked one of my trusses wrong and it was sticking out 1" from the rest.  I just took the two timber loks out and used a 2x4 to knock the truss into place.  My bracing held that truss straight up and down.  Once in place I put the timber loks back in.  EASY! 

Like John said, you will find other places to use them.  I had a couple of spots that didn't tighten up with nails like I wanted.  Use one of these and things are TIGHT!

Austin

[JRR]

When using Timberloks, especially when toeing, I prefer to first "pilot drill" ... long 1/8" drill bits are for this purpose.  When needed on flat connections, I use a home-made right angle guide to keep the pilot hole perpendicular to surface.  Then a separate drill motor with the hex tool is used as driver.  I almost never drive the screws fully with the drill motor ... finishing with a hand ratchet wrench.

I look a little busy with my ratchet, guides, and two drill motors ... and added to that, I sometimes even first poke the Timberlok down into a tube of poly constr glue.  A bit slow and deliberate this whole process ... but I'm retired and have the time!  So far ...

[dablack]

When you say, "especially when toeing...", do you mean with the truss lines up with the stud below?  That is where the vidoes on youtube came in handy.  You basically hit the seam between the top of the stud and the top plate.  You get the TimberLok to grab at a 45 degree angle and then you push down (or toward the wall) so the screw goes up into the truss at a 22 degree angle.  Works great.  The truss really pulls down hard on the top of the wall.  Also, there is a tapper behind the head of the TimberLok so it will bury itself in the wood.  Nothing sticks out. 

Good stuff. 

Austin

[davidj]

The TimberLOKs worked well for me too when I used them to tie down my trusses a couple of weeks ago.  I did manage to break one with my impact driver thanks to a particularly tough knot, but overall much faster and less hassle than hurricane ties.