What's the easiest way to get steel roofing on a high roof?

Erin · October 20, 2013, 09:35:40 AM

We haven't backfilled our basement yet, but it's October, so we're wanting to get the roof on. The roof decking and felt are down, so it's time for panels...

How on earth do we get them UP there?!?! lol
14' panels, it's 18' from the unfilled basement to the edge of the roof eave... Make some sort of rope sling?

Redoverfarm · October 20, 2013, 10:34:45 AM

With a 24' extension ladder you can push the panels up vertically on the ladder rails. Weight wise they are not heavy individually. It will require two people at the least (one to push and the other on top to grab the panels). Nail a couple cleats at the bottom of the eve to act as a rest for the panels to keep them from slidding off and the other for the persons footing on the roof. There is several different approaches to aid in ropes and pulleys. Just have to frigure out the best approach given the manpower available. Basic approach but it works.

October 20, 2013, 02:00:57 PM

we used a "C" clamp and a rope

Don_P · October 20, 2013, 05:29:52 PM

The first thing I do is pull off my belt, roll the sheets into a loose cylinder and belt them, now it is a strong shape that you won't kink as you wrestle it around. I use vice grips and a rope, stand on the extension ladder at the eave and haul up, then flop them onto the roof when they pass midway, slide them into rough place and take the belt off. I've also just grabbed the belt at midpoint and walked up the ladder with the sheet, they aren't heavy.

Native_NM · October 20, 2013, 08:37:51 PM

Quote from: Erin on October 20, 2013, 09:35:40 AM
We haven't backfilled our basement yet, but it's October, so we're wanting to get the roof on. The roof decking and felt are down, so it's time for panels...

How on earth do we get them UP there?!?! lol
14' panels, it's 18' from the unfilled basement to the edge of the roof eave... Make some sort of rope sling?

United Rental. A few hundred bucks. Plan it right and get a bunch of stuff done.

October 20, 2013, 10:03:57 PM

Just out of curiosity, I checked to see where my nearest United Rental would be--147 miles.

I think we'll probably have to go with the c-clamp, rope and Don's belt...

Redoverfarm · October 21, 2013, 06:46:18 AM

Erin if you have access to a set (or couple) of scaffolding it would make it a lot easier. One section will put the bottom of the material about 5' off the ground(standing it up) and two will give you about 10' off the ground. When standing it up you will have either have 1 foot or 6 feet above the eve of the roof. Either will allow you to pull it up by hand from the roof. I would stilll nail a cleat or two on the roof which would allow a 2nd staging area to keep the tin from slidding off. Just remember to put that work area on the opposite end that you intend to start on to avoid having to reposition it as you progress across the roof.

I have mentioned this before but thought I would reiterate it again. I predrill for the screws on the ground. Measure consistantly from either end and use a drywall square to make sure they are in alignment. This produces a much better looking finished product as the screws are consistantly in line without wavering up or down the panel. Screws are set on the flat or valleys of the tin. Every 3' is plenty of holding power between the screw position. The only exception is the bottom row of screws at the eve. I double screw that meaning 2 screws per valley as that will be the location to lift from wind. The top (under the ridge) does not need as many screws as you will be putting additional screws through that area from the ridge cap.

Erin · October 21, 2013, 08:17:48 AM

Quote2 screws per valley

valley? I thought you were supposed to screw into the rib, to avoid water leakage when the gasket on the screw starts to break down...

Pre-drilling is a really good idea, though.

And scaffolding IS 150 miles away. I already know that one from having called around previously to check. My local lumber yards, Ace, etc. rent floor sanders, hammer drills and that sort of thing. One yard told me that scaffolding is in a different class of liability insurance and they're too small to swing it.
We'll use it when we're working on the walls, but probably not the roof.

Squirl · October 21, 2013, 10:57:10 AM

The panels are light.

If you have two people, one down on the ground, one up on the roof, you only have to lift the panels 4 ft. I have also done it red's way of sliding it up a ladder. Panels are 36" and my belt isn't big enough.

Drilling on the ground also lets you drill all the sheets at once. This lets you have them consistent across all panels for a nice uniform look. Saves time too. It is also easier to dust off all the metal shavings so you don't get rust flakes on your roof. Most manufactures recommend this. It also helped me keep the panels square. I chalked a line across the roof so when the holes lined up, the panel was square and in the right place.

Your roofing manufacturer should have a screw guide for whatever product you are buying. Mine required almost all the screws in the valleys. I didn't bother with the special stitch screws for where the ribs overlap. I talked to the sales person and the store never sells them. Apparently nobody else used them either.

http://www.metalsales.us.com/system/files/resources/installation-guides/postframeinstallguide.pdf?download=1

My usual warning, wear a safety harness.

October 21, 2013, 11:50:58 AM

No safety harness for me. It just gets in my way!!

(Besides, I don't leave the ground.

I let my husband be the manly, brave one and do all the roofing work. And there will be complaining and irritation, but he'll wear the harness to make me happy, just like he did when he was sheathing.)

MountainDon · October 21, 2013, 02:04:32 PM

Q: What's the easiest way to get steel roofing on a high roof?

A: Hire someone.

Redoverfarm · October 21, 2013, 04:04:36 PM

Quote from: Erin on October 21, 2013, 08:17:48 AM
valley? I thought you were supposed to screw into the rib, to avoid water leakage when the gasket on the screw starts to break down...
Pre-drilling is a really good idea, though.

Well it really doesn't give you much options then. Alternative would be to use the truck bed as a standing platform to gain a little more heigth.

The original gaskets several years ago were substandard until they started changing the composition and UV protection. The newer ones are just fine as long as you don't overtighten them to the point they split. Just enough to make a small bulge is sufficent.

The panels need a point of expansion/contraction therefore the crimped edge. Everyone that I have talked to and some advice by professionals frown on securing the ridges.

The two screws per individual valley is only on the eve end not throughout the complete sheet.

Ernest T. Bass · October 24, 2013, 11:32:14 PM

I've always preferred Glenn's method of pre-punching the holes with a mini sledge and a nail set, rather than drilling. The shavings are a mess, drilling is time-consuming and the bits break easily. With the sheets aligned together, a good punching marks about 4-6 of them before you have to whack again.

hpinson · October 25, 2013, 10:22:43 AM

Is there tearout when you pre-punch as you describe? Maybe I am misunderstanding - are you just dimpling the metal then fastening with a self-tapping screw, or actually putting a hole in the metal with the punch?

October 25, 2013, 07:57:28 PM

So, a related question: How to square up? Its basically on purlins, so we have a lot of flexibility...

akwoodchuck · October 25, 2013, 09:55:16 PM

Quote from: Erin on October 25, 2013, 07:57:28 PM
So, a related question: How to square up? Its basically on purlins, so we have a lot of flexibility...

One way to square up and get nice consistent reveals with no "stair-stepping" is pretty easy but requires a few people for larger roofs: as each sheet goes up, align the bottoms, put one screw in at the top to hold it, and stitch to the previous panel. Once they are all stitched together, it's just a matter of pulling a few screws (the holes will be under the ridge) and manipulating the entire assembly into the desired position. Some blocks screwed to the fascia keep the whole thing from sliding off the roof, as well as a pivot screw at the midpoint. I like to put a bead of sealant on the panel overlaps as well, especially over purlins (I've also done tar paper over purlins, running it vertically and forming an interlocking 2" fold in the edges). The washers on the screws will wear out much sooner than the roofing will....use smaller screws at first, and replace with the fat ones in 20 years, you can use the same holes.

Squirl · October 28, 2013, 09:40:14 AM

Chalk a line.

I measured 5 ft up on each side of the roof. I then chalked a bright red line. I then used crayon to mark all the sheets at 5'2" (2" drip edge). I drilled all my holes at 5'2" too. All I had to do was line up the holes and markings with the chalked line. Square all the way.

IIRC, it was outlined in the installation guide by the manufacturer.

Erin · October 28, 2013, 01:13:03 PM

Thats what we ended up doing. Three panels done. So far so good. Our installation instructions had nothing for squaring up (beyond "if your roof is out of square you cant use our product")

Don_P · October 28, 2013, 01:54:34 PM

I usually do a little pythagoras A²+B²=C² to chalk the first inboard vertical line to put the edge of the first sheet on. Then a few marks across the roof high and low to check from as you go. Actually you can put it on an out of square roof, it just looks like heck. There's a roof I drive by here that they had to trim the end sheet about 4" more at the bottom than the top... lovely

Erin · October 28, 2013, 03:10:51 PM

Well yeah, we did the pythagorean theorem, too (3,4,5). But we had to create the chalked top-line first to have a basically-straight edge to line up with...