3/4 T&G around doors (how)

[beckhamk]

We have ordered all of our 3/4 T&G to start finishing the inside of the cabin.  I have a good idea on how to install this everywhere but around the doors.  My question when it comes to the doors is then how to properly trim out the door.  For example, our front door pre-hung for a 2x6 wall does sit out a little on the inside maybe a 1/4 but not 3/4.  So when i go to put up the T&G should I be taking it to the outside edge of the door frame or should we be covering it.  I just cant see how I can make the door look pretty with trim because of the thickness of the T&G.

Thoughts, options ?

One other question, when starting from the floor up should i be shimming these for level only or should i be keeping them off the floor 3/4 for the flooring later. I only ask because of the OlJarhead picture when he was putting up his panelling i noticed he had shims or boards on the floor under the first row.

[Redoverfarm]

It is better to have it protruding out into the room than recessed by 1/4".  You will have just a slight bevel to the casing. Yes casing is what I used around my doors.  I had no windows that met the T&G but if I had I would use casing on those as well.
I assume you mean that with the T&G installed you have 1/4" sticking out past the T&G.  If not to make it look correct you will have to add the difference (1/2" extension) to the frame to allow the T&G to flush up with the facing. Do not bring the T&G flush with the inside of the door casing.  It will not look right and it will haunt you forever.     If you use casing you should set it back 1/4" from the inside of the face frame around the entire door perimeter.  You can attach the additional piece either with a trim nailer. glue or biscuit joiner and glue.  I have even seen them attached with screws and plugs.  Either method just make sure that when you attach the casing that you do not shoot a finish nail on top of the other nails or it could divert the nail to the inside making it unsightly.  Here are some pictures. Sorry they are so dark but I used dark stain.

[MountainDon]

The existing door frame protrudes only about 1/4" from the stud level is how I interpret what you are saying. Therefore if the 1X stock (3/4 actual) is applied it sticks out past the door frame about a half inch.

You could extend the door framing/jambs to bring that out to the T&G level.   You could also trim the doors first, before the T&G goes up, IF you were using 5/4 stock (actual 1" thickness) and then butt the T&G up to that trim. That might need to be rabetted on the backside to allow it to fit over the jambs "just so".

Flat exterior trim is done like that around windows and doors for use with lap siding lap siding. That could work depending on the trim type you want on the inside.

It wouldn't hurt to raise the T&G up the wall a slight amount. After the flooring is in you'd be installing base trim anyways. If the gap is too high though you might need to use spacing blocks in the space to keep the bottom edge from tilting back into the space.

[beckhamk]

Mtndon's got it right.  The door frame does only protrude about 1/4 past the stud. 
I like the Idea of trimming the door first. But I will have to see how thick the back side of. The trim is.  I didn't thing it would look good to take the panelling all the way over the framing having 3/4 of exposed panelling with nothing to cover the edge. Maybe  I could forgo the trim and use a corner bead, which probably not look good either.


Is there anything stopping me from starting directly on the sub floor?

[Redoverfarm]

Wasn't sure what you actually had from your description.  But if it were mine I would add the 1/2" (or so) jam extensions and then use regular trim.  It makes a door way look more like it is suppose to.  It is not a difficult task to rip 1/2"(or so) off of 3/4" stock and attach it to the existing jams.  The majority of it will be covered with the casing or trim.

When you talk about  starting at the subfloor I guess you will be running it horizontally rather than vertically.  I would just place 1/4" shim at the subfloor.  If you hold it tight and the wood expands/contracts it may cause problems.

[beckhamk]

perfect guys thanks you so much for your help.  I got the call today that the T&G will be delivered tomm.  So we will head out and start moving it inside. Then start work this weekend.  Went out and bought some new tools a miter stand and a miter sliding saw to speed up this process and also a passlode finish nailer. Cant wait.

[beckhamk]

Well I went ahead and did the build out frame option as mentioned here - Thanks!  It came out much better than i expected.

[Redoverfarm]

Glad it worked out.  Add a little casing and you will be set.