20 x 20 w 8 x 10 bedroom

Started by Mike 870, March 20, 2014, 05:52:24 PM

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Mike 870

#50
  Looks much more like West Virginia or Kentucky where I am.

dablack

Looks like you are having fun and the driveway looks great!  Are three of those beams above a window?  I'm a belt and suspenders kind of guy when it come to building and for the beams that aren't above a window, I could put another stud (jack stud) that runs from the bottom of the beam down to the bottom plate. 

Again, nice pictures and it looks like a beautiful place. 

Austin


w1ck3tt

Quote from: Mike 870 on October 02, 2017, 09:49:55 AM
I'm in the South/East Appalachian part of the state.  Looks much more like West Virginia or Kentucky where I am.

Ah - what a beautiful area, hadn't been down in that region in probly 20 years, used to camp down by Old Mans Cave, and I think there was a campground (was a free one) called Ohio Power?  We are up by Mohican (Loudenville/Mansfield/Wooster - Amish Country!)

My 50x30 universal build project:
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=14475.0

Mike 870

Ahh, I used to do the Mohican 100 mountain bike race every year.  Beautiful area.  I considered it when I was looking at land but the shale boom was pushing prices that were already much higher than other rural areas through the roof. 


Mike 870

I had another productive work weekend this past weekend.  First thing I did when I got there after unloading was to stain the deck.  I didn't really wan't to do this but I knew if I put it off I'd never get it done.  Plus the cedar had been sitting outside for a year so it was ready and really took the stain well.

I bought 31 sheets of OSB, and it looks like it's going to be about the right amount, we got down to sheathing and got just about everything we could do done.  I can't do the top bit yet.  My rafters are at a timber framers barn getting cut and he is making the span between the birds mouth 14 feet.

The front door I framed to be 3-6 wide and one size larger than standard height.  It will be a Marvin wood ultrex French door so it should let in a lot of good light.  The SYP span tables don't go down to my building width or 20psf snow load, so I used the next size up which called for a single 2x6.  It didn't feel right so I doubled them up for the rest of my window and doors.

This window is where there will be a built in dining nook.

Back door

From the main area looking into the bedroom

View from the loft, may have to frame in a dormer to take advantage of that!

As things stand now.

Me pup is always willing to help out with the dishes.  (She's 14 years old and still acts like a pup)






ChugiakTinkerer

I'm regretting not putting a dormer in the loft of the 12x16 cabin that is currently in progress.  The view when standing up there is just too nice.  If your loft is intended for daily use, you really ought to consider that dormer.

Looks great by the way, thanks for posting the pics.
My cabin build thread: Alaskan remote 16x28 1.5 story

Don_P

LOL, I can't count the number of times I've sat on the ridge and thought "we really need to build a tower up to here".

Mike 870

Yea, I'm pretty well convinced.  The rafters are on 4 ft centers so I can fit a decent sized one right in between, shouldn't be too much effort as long as I am organized enough to put the siding on before the former roof.  Probably a simple shed dormer would look nice and add some visual interest from the outside.

MountainDon

Quote from: Mike 870 on October 20, 2017, 08:13:03 AM
Yea, I'm pretty well convinced.  The rafters are on 4 ft centers so I can fit a decent sized one right in between, shouldn't be too much effort as long as I am organized enough to put the siding on before the former roof.  Probably a simple shed dormer would look nice and add some visual interest from the outside.


Yes. I remember thinking how nice it would have been to build a lookout tower like a castleor something when I was on the cabin roof.   Dave Sparks had the right idea when he built their place in California. The main floor is workshop, garage, etc. The living quarters are upstairs where they have a nice view.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


dablack

I avoided dormers and any other roof penetration but if I was to do one, I would make it shed roof and give it a good over hang on the sides and front.  Make sure you get your drainage plain right!  For some reason really good builders get confused when it comes to dormers.  Those sides are tiny little walls and you need to treat them that way.  I really like some of the European eyebrow dormers where there is no side wall to the dormer and the roof just arches over them.  If I was doing slate tile or shingles, I would do that!  I always use a metal roof so it doesn't really work for me. 

Austin

Mike 870

Even though it will mean less than 6 ft headroom at the end of the dormer I'm going to follow the design principles outlined in this FHB article.  http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2015/03/04/making-shed-dormers-work

dmanley

Am I missing something? I don't see any jackstuds.  Also, the headers over the windows seem small to me.

Mike 870

Nope you're not missing anything, there are no jack studs.  I used Simpson header hangers instead.  The headers are sized (oversized actually) based on my building width, stories, and snow load per the Southern Pine span tables. 

dmanley

Interesting.  I have never seen that done before.  Good looking build.



Mike 870

Yes, you got it azgreg, that's what I'm doing for this build with a couple small exceptions.

Mike 870

Sorry, huge image dump, using imagur, and wow it's almost as bad as photbucket from a usability standpoint.  Here is a tip, if you have the app, just remove it and use the desktop version.  Made a bit of progress with the timber frame roof, got everything moved into the cabin and assembled the bedroom and the utility bumpout.  I will make the proviso, there are a couple framing pieces missing especially over windows and doors.I ran out of HH 6s and also 2x 6s. Heading out tomorrow to assemble the biggest rafters over the main room. 












Mike 870

So in the bedroom, the middle rafters have a tie and the end rafters will be prevented from splitting by the sheathing, but in the main area I will need some sort of strapping or hardware to prevent the rafters from slipping off the top plate.  There will be 6 total rafters, one has a rafter tie, two will be on the ends of the structure, but 3 will need to be prevented from slipping off the top plate.  Any suggestions?

Mike 870

Got the rest of the rafters up today.  Went up really easy, built a temporary 2nd floor then just assembled and pegged them laying down and leaned em up.




Mike 870

I took a day trip today. All I got done was to add the studs in the second story gable ends.  It took forever because I offset the rafters on the ends so they would be 3/4 inch proud on the inside.  Which leaves them around 2 and 1/2 inches off the end of the building.  So I had to notch all the studs out, what a pain.  I'm contemplating adding another rafter tie in the main room.  Right now there is 8 feet without a tie.

My 14 year old Lab always keeps me company on these trips, but she is getting either dimentia or brain tumors, so now traveling stresses her out too much so she had to stay home.  It's really tearing me up she's my best buddy in the world and it feels wrong leaving her home because she likes it there so much.






pmichelsen

Quote from: Mike 870 on November 27, 2017, 09:31:14 PMMy 14 year old Lab always keeps me company on these trips, but she is getting either dementia or brain tumors, so now traveling stresses her out too much so she had to stay home.  It's really tearing me up she's my best buddy in the world and it feels wrong leaving her home because she likes it there so much.

Sorry to hear about your pup, we've only had ours for a couple years, but I would be a wreck if something were to happen to her.

Mike 870

Thanks for the kind words pm, enjoy your time with yours and treat him/her well.  I did another day trip yesterday.  Began installing various widths of #3 pine.  Got the cheapest stuff I could from menards with zero sorting.  Thankfully that's ok with the kind of look we are going for.  Mixing it up between 8 10 and 12 inch widths.  I like the look of the lighter pine against the rough sawn ash.




NathanS

Looks really good. I almost commented earlier on how clear your rafters look, didn't realize it was Ash.

Are you going to lay foam on top of the sheathing? I found a really good deal on used polyiso insulation off a school roof, you might be able to find some good deals on craigslist.

In the cathedral area where you don't have any rafter ties it probably wouldn't look bad at all if you just ran two timber joists across to shore everything up.

Mike 870

Thanks, we have loads of Ash available because of the Emrald Ash Borer, I can get it milled any way I want for $1 bf so I'm using it any way I can.  Yes I am going to lay foam on top and then add strapping or sheathing on top of that.  The big question is how much to add, it's pretty pricey and I need around 700 sq ft of coverage. 

There is one " kind of" rafter tie across the cathedral area.  It's closer to the middle of the rafter than it is the bottom 1/3.  It's pretty strong, still being 3 inches thick where the tie connects to the rafter.  The cathedral area is 12 feet long, and the tie is at 4 feet over from the loft then it is 8 more feet to the gable end.  If it were 2x pine I'd add another tie in a heartbeat.  Being hardwood I'm waiverig a bit and more inclined to add it just because I don't like the dissymetry of going 4 to 8 ft of open ceiling.

NathanS

That bug is just now getting to our area, not good.

We found 2.75" foam for $10 a sheet, if you keep your eye out maybe something will come up. The guy that sold it was a commercial roofer, does 1 or 2 school roofs a year and sells all the old stuff they pull off. It was in really good shape.

Another expense is the screws, I think we spent like $500 on just the structural screws.

Also how you fur it out dictate what type of metal you can use. I know our standing seam panels had to sit directly on sheathing vs the corrugated panels can sit on furring.