How should I handle this problem?

[RIjake]

On the loft floor of my 20x30 project I am using 2x6 T&G planking. 
I was wondering how others that have used planking have handled the problem of nailing braces for the gables.  Typically in framing there are a lot of instances where nailing a block into the subfloor to hold or brace something.  Where there is no subfloor, only the finish floor, what are some ways to do this without having nail holes everywhere?

Thanks

[Redoverfarm]

Generally it is not laid until the roof and gable walls are raised.  Is the T&G already down? Is the T&G visible from the ceiling on the ground floor?  If so you will have to penetrate it in some fashion for nailers to hold the braces in place.  If not you can lay the floor to a location where the braces would be and stop or. Lay to that location and then create a "dummy" board by cutting off the bottom groove.  Continue laying and you will be able to lift/pry that one out to use as a penetration with your brace to the ceiling joist/beam.  The attachment of the brace should be at a floor joist/ceiling beam so hopefull the peneration will not be noticable. 

[RIjake]

Thanks John.

I have not started to frame yet, I'm just planning this all out in my mind and have been doing a lot of reading.  I then realized that I have this issue.

I would think that when building this house and using standard plywood it would be easier to do the gables and roof from the elevated position if you have one.

The T&G will be finish ceiling on first floor and finish floor on the second, I don't want to have to fill nail holes. 

Maybe I'll run the second floor joists (2x12 built up, 4'OC) and set up some temporary walkway then try to nail the braces to the top of the joist.  Then lay the T&G when the roof is on and it's all tight to the weather.

[Redoverfarm]

That answers alot being that you "haven't already".  Normally (mine also) have 4X8's (3-1/2 X 7-1/4) and I didn't go the max.  Only 32" on mine but I was spanning 15'1".  You mention build up's of 2X material.  Might check the span tables as you will only have 3" width.  You can always dress them up to make them look like actual beams.  

While we are on your subject.  Normally 2X6TG is milled to perfection on the face edge and not so much on the back side.  So don't look to get a perfect floor in the loft/2nd floor.  I finished off the reverse side for the loft of my 2X6TG leaving the beveled as the ceiling.  There are some pictures of mine but I don't know how far back.  With mine being that it is a log cabin it fit right in.  I finished the good side with a white wash/pickled finish as natural would be out of place.  The finish still shows the grain/knots but  allows it to be lighter for the ceiling.

You can always use scrap lumber to build a catwalk or working platform on your ceiling joist that will not affect it's appearence as ny holes will be covered by the floor.  If you have any lumber mills they might sell barn lumber at a fraction of the cost of finished white wood.

Hope this helps

John

[RIjake]

John,
Not sure I follow you here on your comments regarding the 2nd floor joists.  The plans call for doubled 2x12s.  I went back and forth with rough cut but could never find span tables for white pine timbers.  Anyway I've decided on using what the plans call for (doubled 2x12s) and sandwich plywood between and then dress em up with 1by pine later. 

So what you're saying is you used dimensional 4x8 timbers 32" OC spanning 15'1"?

[Redoverfarm]

I didn't notice that you were using 2X12's.  My mind was saying one thing and you were saying the other. I would say you will be fine with those.

Yes that is what I used. Right/wrong/indifferent I could not have any braces except one room which I built a bathroom under most of them.  The rooms aloft are bedrooms with no noticable weight loads.

Here is a couple shots of the finished loft floor





Here is an early shot of the kitchen ceiling