chain saw recommendations

[MikeT]

It has become increasingly clear that the pruning blade on my sawzall just is not going to cut it for the amount of firewood I need to cut.  I may look for a log splitter down the road as well, but in the short run, can all y'all give me some recommendations on chain saws?  What is essential?  What is desirable?  Can I get good ones that are used?

Thanks,
mt

[Redoverfarm]

mt asking for brand recommendations is like sorting different automobiles.  Someone will swear by a particular brand and others curse at the same brand.  Me personally I have a Husqvarnia 22" saw.  But that is my preference because I usually cut larger trees.  I would say a 18" bar would be ample for all around size.  Poulan & Stihl are also pretty good.  Find a place that will service what you buy. I have had all three at one time or the other and have cursed at all three being a 2 cycle.  The motor size is more important than the bar size IMO. A underpowered large bar will work you to death while a shorter more powerful will have the power regardless of the type of wood you are cutting.

Splitters are usually $1,000 to $1,500 for a 20-25 ton.  Most farm supply, Lowes, HD , Northern Tools have them. Unless you have extremely large blocks or knots a splitting maul will usully do the trick if you are physically able. 

[NM_Shooter]

Don't buy a cheap saw.  I have not heard many good things about Poulan or Homelite saws.  Many of these cheap saws are not easily repairable. 

I would only purchase a Stihl or Huskvarna (sp?)  I have a Stihl Farmboss 029 (I think) and I like it quite a bit.

You can find them used, but this is a tough time of year to be looking for bargains.  Check your pawnshops. 

-f-

[Daddymem]

Don't disregard the electric chainsaws.  If you aren't going to be cutting cords of wood, just a few trees here and there and trimming branches, they do the trick and require a whole ton less maintenance.  You will need a nice long heavy gauge extension cord.  The other day I was out with dad and his couple year old 18" Husky and me with my couple decade old 13" craftsman.  As we cut, he was much faster and got at thicker logs, but he had to stop three times that afternoon to add gas and it stalled several times.  I never stopped, just pull the trigger and away it cuts.  Nice and light and even though you aren't supposed to, you could operate it one handed.  I'm even considering upgrading to one with a bigger bar....for a fraction of the price of a gas saw.  I know I couldn't go out in the middle of the woods and take down trees with it, but I don't see myself being in that position anyways, just doing yard stuff all within reach of my power outlet.

[ScottA]

Stihl is the only brand you should consider for a small to medium saw.

[OldDog]

Husqvarna for me.  I've been using mine today for storm cleanup.  The power is back after 2 days.

My generator uses more fuel than my 4x4 Dodge!

[apaknad]

mike,
i worked at lowes and they now sell some electric splitters that you might want to take a look at. i had a splitter from nothern tool w/honda engine that never did run right.

[MountainDon]

Buy a saw with a big enough engine, but small enough to allow you to handle it easily/safely. Be mindful of the altitude related power loss if you are higher up. Figure about 3% loss per thousand feet as a rule of thumb

Decide on bar length by size of the largest tree you'll be encountering.

Don't leave it sit for prolonged periods of time without almost completely draining the gas tank and then running it dry. Most cases of hard starting after non use (it worked the last time I used it...) are caused by gummed up fuel lines.

Clean the air filter frequently; always have a spare new chain.

I think all the above is more important than the brand name in many cases; depends also on how much use you give it.

[JRR]

If I was dependent on a chainsaw for keeping warm, I would consider buying two identical chainsaws ... unless the chainsaw store was just down the street, and kept all the spare parts I would ever need on the shelf.  Any brand of chainsaw can suddenly fail you ... and keep you from doing the task at hand.  A few hundred bucks spent on the second saw can be a great investment if it prevents a lot of lost time or expensive trips "to the store".  The "life cycle" of a pair should be twice that of a single ... so the money isn't poorly spent in the long run.  And by all means, have more than one fuel can ... and use them all in some order.

I also like the Stihl brand and am lucky to have a great service center nearby.  I don't need a saw that much ... so I have backed up my saw with only a few extra chains and extra bar.  I also recommend using the synthetic two-cycle oil.  And be sure to use authentic bar oil. 

I have bought lawn mowers in pairs and brush machines in pairs.  Has helped save more than one day and many dollars!

I have several drill motors of different shapes and sizes to handle a lot of different tasks.  The most used is a Ryobi 3/8" VSR ... I have 3 of them.  "It" will never let me down!

[glenn kangiser]

I currently have 3 Stihls and a Husky.  I like them.  I also like chisel chains - not the homeowner safety chains.  Watch your forehead though -- they can kick back.  I always get a picture of that thing kicking back and sticking out of my forehead.  

I have a Stihl electric also after burning up 2 cheap electrics.  I would only consider good name brands in electrics such as Stihl, Husquvarna, Makita -- Remingtons only lasted me 1 year each.

[MikeT]

Thanks for these replies.  I think I will try a cheap, used saw first and see the use I get out of it before committing myself to something else.

Glenn, you referred to the safety issue, and I have a constant memory of a Robert Frost poem called "Out, out" about a boy whose hand is eaten by a chainsaw as he cuts wood in Vermont.  The boy dies.

Onto happier things...like home construction projects.

mt

[NM_Shooter]

So that is a good point..... buy a cheap chainsaw, but don't skimp on the safety gear.

-f-

[glenn kangiser]

Mike, I got a great Stihl at a pawn shop --several years ago but I hear there are lots of tools in there now- check it out good first if you do it-- the one I got was near new 046 for $400

[Ernest T. Bass]

If I was dependent on a chainsaw for keeping warm, I would consider buying two identical chainsaws ...

I dunno, I think having different sized saws is more convenient. Same brand, yes. Swappable parts and all... We have three saws; Stihl MS 440, 260, and a small Echo. We really like the variety, and you always have the right saw for the job. The 440 is big enough to do a bit of lumber making, while the echo is light enough to hold outstretched in one hand (that little guy works hard for it's size, though!).

If I had to pick only one, though, it would be the Stihl MS 260. It's got a great power-to-weight ratio, and it's the perfect size for most tasks. I've been using it all summer to build our vertical log cabin, and just keep liking it more and more... Every time I pick it up I think "Wow, this thing's light!" Yet, it has more power than I need for cutting logs up to a foot in diameter. Starts with 3 pulls every time.. What more could you ask for?

[phalynx]

I have the Stihl MS 360.  I can tell you, from owning a Poulan Pro saw and going to a Stihl, they are NIGHT AND DAY!  You thought you were cutting wood with the Poulan, you were just wearing the wood out.  Pay for a good saw and it will not come from a big box store.  A good saw + a good chain and it's a win win.  Like Glenn said, there are 2 main types of chains.  I have the safety chain on mine and it cuts like butter through 24" logs.  I can only imagine how much faster a real chain would be.  I was concerned about kick back.   The safety chain doesn't have much.  On the Poulan, I would retighten, sharpen and retighten the chain every few trees, and that's just felling them.  I went through about 4 chains.  They would stretch.  With the Stihl chain, I have had to tighten it twice so far.  The first time was after felling about 20 trees and cutting them up.  There is NIGHT AND DAY..  I paid 600.00 for my saw new.  It was worth every single penny.

[glenn kangiser]

With the chisel it is like melted butter, but be prepared for the kickback at all times and stay clear as possible of it.  - A few seconds through a 12" log. 

Always keep the chain sharp even if you wear it out. It is a wear item.  Replace when necessary

Follow proper angles.  One rock nick can dull it.  Keep it clean and clear of rocks and dirt.

[Squirl]

I will second the idea of an electric.  It depends on how much you are doing and how close to your power source.  An electric is far cheaper than a gas, especially used.  I have found them as cheap as $20 at garage sales and pawn shops.  I had a small place and didn't use much wood.  I rely more on an axe and a maul.
This is all dependent on your physical capabilities.  I disagree with some that would buy two of the same saw.  If you do go the gas route, I would keep a few spare parts on hand and a good set of hand tools.  Practice using them.  Have a few extra handles.  (I went through plenty of these at first)  You can usually pick up many of these extremely cheap at an estate sale.  These are usually very good tools in good condition.  They are not expensive if you buy them new either.  I will admit my bias towards not being as dependant on gasoline to get the job done.
I started out my engine work rebuilding chainsaws for a small outfit when I was a teenager.  All chainsaws, no matter what brand, will give you a problem now and again.  These seem to be compounded the less you use them. I spent years fighting with two cycle engines and I'm done with it.  There is nothing more aggravating than setting aside a day for chopping wood, to spend all day trying to get the thing to work.  If you are like many people and only go through a small amount of wood per year, maybe you could borrow a neighbors and just give him some split wood in return.  Also, I would check craigslist and local papers if you need a splitter.  I found them going from $60-$100 per day to rent around here.  If you are only going to use it for a day, it would take you fifteen years before you reached the cost of a new one.

[MountainDon]

Regarding 2 strokes and their reliability...  I've said this before and will reiterate...

In 40+ years of dealing with small engines; model aircraft, chain saws, leaf blowers, generators, motorcycles, etc. I strongly believe the cause of most problems are owner inflicted. Problems fall into the main categories of [1] gummed up carbs from leaving gas sit it the fuel system too long without use [2] bad/fouled/wet spark plug, [3] dirty clogged air filter (chain saw especially)  [4] stale fuel.  Number [1] is the biggie IMO.

Small engines require TLC, maintenance and proper use/care. Twp strokes especially are more temperamental than your car or truck, but I don't mind using them when necessary. Sometimes an electric whatchamacallit is a perfect substitute, sometimes they are not. In my case an electric chainsaw would not be at all suitable.
Perhaps the most difficult thing about a gas engine operated tool is the discipline required to ensure faithful operation.

YMMV

As for a splitter, a good maul, chopping block and a steel wedge or two does wonders for the waist line / fat content of the body.   

[achildofthesky]

Husqvarna
Stihl
Jonsered

I have owned or ran a great deal the above saws and would be happy with any of the brands. A couple years ago we had 5 fairly big pines that needed removed and I bought 2 new Husqvarna's (a 338xpt w/13" bar gfor climbing work and a 346 xpg for production cutting w/20" bar). For less than the tree service co wanted to cut the trees I  did it for myself and kept the tools afterward. The 346 flat rips through 20" logs and has the luxury of heated grips for cold wx use. I like my huskies...

I used to have a small logging biz back in Breckenridge, Co in the 80's and LOVED cutting wood so it was a no brainer for me. I had a Jonsered back then and I tell you what, I used the, well, I used it alot. Correct me somebody if I am wrong, but I believe Jonsereds from that era were basically slightly reengineered Husqvarnas.

At the ski area when I worked there during the summer on trail crew we had Stihl 046's. I suggested a lighter weight and higher revving 038 magnum and they tested one out and I tell you it was a fine machine as well. It worked great! Lighter to me is better as is higher rpm.

A 20" bar will do pretty much anything you need to do and be easy to handle. Get an electric dremel type sharpener that runs on 12 volt power, 2 xtra chains, a couple files and 3 or 4 wedges and a beater (sledge) and you are good to go. I always liked a nice california type double bit axe for light limbing.

Be safe and use PPE when you cut and split

Patty
aka stands with saw

[peternap]

Dolmar!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have 2 Dolmars and a Husky. The Husky is my beater and the Dolmars do all the work. My Biggest one is 90 couple CC's and I use it on a chainsaw mill for making beams. Neither has ever let me down.

More Pro's are going to Dolmar since Husky lowered their standards.

However as John pointed out, asking for thge best chainsaw can start fistfights.

[cholland]

I have two husky's and love them.  18" bar does just about anything a normal home owner would want.
Check out what professionals use, you will see mostley Husky's and Stihls.
At one point I actually had more money in my chainsaw than my car (a cheap honda).

USE YOUR SAFTEY GEAR... not only eye and ear protection (gloves too) but buy a pair of Kevlar chaps.
They are a little over $100 but Its cheaper than a trip to the Emergency room for stiches (if your lucky, thats all).  Plus they help keep you warm when its cold outside.

Clean your saw often and they will last a long time.  IMO if you dont have the skills to tear down the saw, clean it and put it back together you probably shouldn't be operating it.

[MountainDon]

Remember my caution about leaving a saw with fuel in the tank for a prolonged period of time?

I was absolutely sure I had drained my main chainsaw after I used it last. That was just before I started on teh cabin in July. Turns out I did not.    I needed to cut a couple logs this weekend. I found it full of gas. It started okay right off but it wouldn't run right at high speed.

The good news is that I put a small amount of fuel injector cleaner is a half gallon of fuel mix. I drained the saw and refilled it with the new mix. I ran it a while with it faltering, then let it sit overnight. The next day it fired up okay and ran well at high speed. After cutting the logs up I drained the tan and put the saw on the shelf.

Lucky this time.

[JRR]

Unfailing attention will certainly keep small engines doing their "best" ... but it has been my experience that over time, there will eventually be required some disassembly and repair of the fuel system.  I have only seen carburetors that use fabric gaskets and diaphragms ... there may be something else more durable out there that I have not seen.  The fabric gaskets often have little flappers designed in that act as check valves ... these will eventually harden no longer seal properly ... same with the diaphragms, they will harden and won't do their task.

A carburetor rebuild kit should be purchased ahead if you are dependent on a machine and it has a few years on it.  The related hoses and in-tank pick-up filter should be replaced also.

[MountainDon]

Good point on the kits and hoses.   

[glenn kangiser]

Right JRR.  I have one that's been sitting in the shop waiting for me to install the new gas line for several months.