Looking pretty good.
I think Don_P mentioned not to have the points together though because they can crush.
I think the idea is to cut an angle (like 2 45 degrees for example)
(I added 1 extra piece here for fun)



I suppose you can then add the plywood, or maybe 2 pieces of your 2' width boards could also work like this.



No pockets for rain to catch, it ties everything together, allows a point of access underneath... again, I have never done this, just an idea.

I believe the gusset material should be 3/4 inch plywood, not 3/8.   We'll see what Don_P thinks.

I am more thinking for him to be able to use the material he already has on-hand.  Would doubling up on the thickness be the same as using the 3/4?  So two 3/8" plied together to form the 3/4"? 

Edit:  Could maybe even stagger the joints to help any loss of bracing due to that joint.

Thanks Adam and Don,

My post gussets (the ones with the carriage bolts going through them) are in the way of me being able to put a
whole plate of plywood over the area. You can see that by taking a close look at the above pic/s. I'll have to cut
my plates in a fashion where they'll cover the most area.

Coming right up is a video of me cutting the angles on my 4x4 braces. I don't own a table saw and have to use
my circular saw for everything. I'm trying to do the best I can of course but it's pretty tricky. Be back soon!

My suggestion would be to use old cardboard (like from boxes) and that way you can tape new pieces and cut it to the perfect shape for each brace.  Once it's perfect, then you transfer that to the wood and make the actual cut.  That same piece is then used to start measuring for the next.  Takes a bit of time but there should be a lot less waste, and trial and error afterwards.  Cutting cardboard with scissors is easier that cutting a 4x4 with a circular saw.

Saturday - April 30th, 2016

Here's a video showing how I cut my 4x4 treated brace angles...I go like a here so:

https://youtu.be/jo-ZfWnbwys

Re: two layers of 3/8... not nearly the same as 3/4 as the two thinner layers act independently of each other.  Sorry, I'm not thinking interms of using what is on hand, but using what is better suited for the task.

Re: the bolted on 'scabs' used to reinforce beam to post being in the way of plywood gussets. If the gussets are notched to fit around those much of their strength disappears. Better solution is to remove the scabs / 2x bracing, install the plywood gussets and reinstall the scabs / bracing. Nail the plywood gussets at least every 3 inches with at least 8D common, hot dip galvanized nails. They need nailing on all sides to have strength. A notched out section to clear around a scab / brace leaves a weak unsecured area. That'll be the first part to fail if the structure gets tested by big winds or earth movement.

The unbolting, etc could be avoided with better planning before getting to this stage.



FYI, the videos don't get watched when I am away from wi-fi... phone data costs too much. And there are some viewers who probably never see them as they are one the 3% of Americans who still use dial up. Even some of the still images have file sizes that are slow to load over dial up.

Saturday Eve - April 30th, 2016

Thank you again Don! Removing those gussets with the carriage bolts and then putting a plywood gusset behind them
is a great idea.

Saturday - April 30th, 2016

End of Day: Got most of the bracing installed on beam row 1. Here's a picture and then a short video:



https://youtu.be/51OaPNIwuvQ

Monday - May 2nd, 2016

Started to put the gussets over the braces. Here's pics and vids:

https://youtu.be/iu6hrbk0xeA



https://youtu.be/c2NdG63wdYY

Tuesday - May 3rd, 2016

Day 3 of beam gusset work:

https://youtu.be/TeyGDlsbqgA

What's your plan to brace it from beam to beam?

I can just picture one of these...






As much as this approach is not always considered the best (piers), I am really enjoying this build thread. 
Thanks for sharing all the little details...

Thanks guys!

The floor joists are what braces one beam to the other. Here is the link to what Don's floor joists
look like when they went on top of his beams.

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=2335.msg61571#msg61571

If we're going to be linking to my example, let's include this one as well...

I was thinking along the lines of how drbuilder did on his. His is closer to the height of yours.

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=12576.0

post #9

drbuilder did do a pretty good job of bracing the beams and piers to each other. That may be better bracing than my remedial method of building a shear wall at each end. It would take an engineer to have a more informed opinion. In any event time and materials spent now is easier, much easier, than working under a constructed building.

When it comes to strength triangles are your friend. 

Wow, those reads were very informative!

I think I will use the same type of bracing that drbuilder did. I'll use a total of 6 4x4's. Two on
each end and 2 in the middle and they'll criss-cross like what was shown.

Thank you again Don and thanks for the link to drbuilder azgreg!

Wednesday - May 4th, 2016

Continuing with my bracing and gussets to cover and help support them. There is a picture
below and then a video where I explain how I may criss-cross 4x4's from beam to beam but
I don't think that'll work. I was thinking about mounting them straight, one at the bottom and
one at the top but I'm not sure about that idea.



https://youtu.be/LqqtPyQeiNQ

Anything with parallel or near parallel members are collapsible rectangles or maybe a trapazoid. Triangles, three sides only are the only shape that has built in collapse resistance.   

What I did between piers was build a shear wall. With all the nails around all the edges and to the studs in the center of the field it creates a bunch of virtual triangles. The 3/4 thick plywood resists deforming or buckling.

I'm wondering if I put a 4x4 at the top, between beams, and then another one at the bottom and
THEN use 2x's attached to each side of top and bottom 4x4 criss-crossed...or something along them lines.

Use a 2x4 top and bottom horizontal and 2x4 studs at 16" on center vertically, attach end studs to existing post well. Wrap in plywood and nail well.

I see Don_P... (Hey, that rhymes!)

I'll end up with 6 shear walls about 9'8" long and around 2 to 3 feet in height. That sounds very
good and strong, I like the idea. Thank you Don!

You only need to do it on the outer ends... the floor will transfer the rigidity when you attach the "lid" on the bracing walls.
terminology note, a shear wall is an engineered wall, braced walls is what we are creating.