Al and Robins 20x30 1 1/2 near Lake Eufaula, OK

[MountainDon]

I plan to go through the wall above the window and not through the window itself.

Yes, Al I figured that. I simply have reservations about having a hot metal pipe close to cold glass and metable vinyl. The first couple of feet of my black pipe reaches 300+ F when there is a good fire going in my stove. That radiates a lot of heat. Maybe its my cautious nature; plus I've never seen a chimney run past a window. Maybe just the aesthetics of it, but I don't know....


The hole through the roof is no big deal. Even my cautious nature does not have a problem with it. You locate the spot from inside using a plumb bob, drill a pilot hole and then cut the hole with clearance for the pipe. Install the metal flashing boot and then the pipe and you're off to the races! Once it's done it's done. I've never had a chimney flashing leak; our one and only roof leak came from blown off shingles. It is easier to do the flashing if the shingles are not yet installed, but I've done new chimney holes through old shingles before, with not too much trouble and no leaks.

The straight run chimney does draw much more reliably than one with two 90 degree bends. They don't even make 90 degree bends for insulated pipe, just the black or by using 90 degree cleanouts. FWIW, 30 degree bends are the recommended maximum for insulated pipe (for wood burning chimneys).

[Redoverfarm]

I'd go through the roof. It's not hard. Probably easier, cheaper, and better draft.

Alan

Not to mention the periodic cleaning that is needed.  No way to brush/clean the 90 deg's other than diisassembling them.

[southbalto]

Hey Al-  I've been following your build for well.....from the beginning.

You really should rethink the venting plan for the stove.  Adding two 90 degree turns is going to restrict draft and, as mentioned, make cleaning a pain.  You would be much better off going straight up through the roof.  The interior stove pipe comes in two varieties, single and double wall.  Single must be a min of 18" from combustibles, 6" for double I believe.  At the ceiling you can use a specialty box that joins the stove pipe to Class A HT pipe which typically can be as close as 2" to combustibles.

As for proximity of the pipe and the roof.  I've always heard that the piping should extend 2' above anything within 10' of it.

Good luck!

[southbalto]

I took another look at the front of your place and I think you're going to have a hard time venting through the side. As MtnDon said, Exterior Pipe does not come in 90 degree elbows.  There are "T" units available but they are typically used right up against the house and you would need to blow through your soffit .

The other consideration is cost.  The "t" unit price will probably run you about the same money the cathedral ceiling/junction box will.  The cost benefit will be that you can use inexpensive black stove pipe for the majority of the vertical run.  Once you get above the roof it will be maybe a couple 4' pipe sections and a few stabilizers. 

To go through the side you'll need a through the wall kit, horizontal class a section to the "T".  You'll then have to decide whether to go straight up through the soffit or use 30 degree elbows to maybe work around it.  Then go up again to get you the 10/2 clearance and stabilize.

>

[ajbremer]

Ok, I'm glad ya'll gave me good advice on going through the roof instead of the wall.

I have decided to go just straight up through the roof. You can see all those triple wall sections
that I own by looking at that picture above. Should I use them as I go through the box at the
top of the cathedral ceiling and beyond? That triple walled stuff is super heavy!

[MountainDon]

I'm not sure how the weight of your chimney compares to the Selkirk SuperVent I use. However, the SuperVent Cathedral ceiling support and support 30 feet of their pipe; that's 30 feet of insulated pipe total, some above and some below the mount. Check out the specs on your brand.  As was mentioned single wall black pipe needs 18 inches minimum clearance from combustibles. That means you need some insulated pipe hanging below the ceiling mount; enough length to keep the black pipe far enough away from any combustibles. Draw a scale picture and measure drop to the sloped surfaces. Go from there.

When you are installing a straight up run a section of telescoping black pipe is very handy from the stove up. It makes installation and maintenance easier than all rigid, non telescoping pipe. The telescoping pipe is also a welded seam design, completely smooth and looks better. Not cheap as snap seam black pipe but it is worth it IMO.

[southbalto]

I'm not sure if there is a maximum length of  double wall pipe that you can use on the interior.  There may very well be a restriction on the amount of stove pipe you can use before the transfer to class a.

here is a picture of the ceiling transfer box i mentioned earlier:

[ajbremer]

Hey thanks a lot southbalto.

I'll have to look up a picture of something like that that I can use for my 12:12 pitch cathedral ceiling.

[Redoverfarm]

Hey thanks a lot southbalto.

I'll have to look up a picture of something like that that I can use for my 12:12 pitch cathedral ceiling.

Al here is a site which pretty well has everything dealing with stove pipes.  Maybe give you some idea what is out there and the application of each. 

http://www.ventingpipe.com/

[MountainDon]

That's from Dug's southern NM project
Go here and scroll down a little

[astidham]

Great hearing from you again astidham!

I think I'll be doing my insulation using the 'as I go' and 'as I can afford' method. Things
are getting tighter now financially - buying cars didn't help the house building much. Some
day, we'll have to check each others build out.

absolutely!

[ajbremer]

That's great guys, thank you so much! Now I just have to figure out the best place to go and get one
and how much it'll cost.

[Alan Gage]

Single must be a min of 18" from combustibles, 6" for double I believe. 

Al - Check those clearances in the manual supplied with your stove. I believe the minimum clearances usually referred to are for non-EPA stoves where there's been no testing. All the current stove manufacturers test their stoves for clearances for both the stove and pipe. Your stoves manual should not only tell you the clearances for the stove but the pipes as well.

Alan

[southbalto]

Al - Check those clearances in the manual supplied with your stove. I believe the minimum clearances usually referred to are for non-EPA stoves where there's been no testing. All the current stove manufacturers test their stoves for clearances for both the stove and pipe. Your stoves manual should not only tell you the clearances for the stove but the pipes as well.

Alan

Alan-  The measurements I mentioned are for the stove pipe and shouldn't vary depending on the type of stove.  It's 18/6 depending on single/double wall construction.

As for the stove....If it doesn't have a UL label, the default I believe is 36". That is, no part of the stove can be within 3 feet. 

[southbalto]

http://www.woodstove-outlet.com/stovepipecomparison.htm

[Redoverfarm]

Al if you will go to the type of pipe you are looking for and search the site that I provided they have the length of pipe (Maximum) for maximum effency as well as the cut off length.  Problem with these sites is that most are manufacturer verbage rather than actual independent lab test. 

[Alan Gage]

Alan-  The measurements I mentioned are for the stove pipe and shouldn't vary depending on the type of stove.  It's 18/6 depending on single/double wall construction.

My stoves (Englander) list the "chimney connector to wall" distance along with "stove to wall".

In the case of my Englander 17-VL the chimney connector at the top of the stove can be within 12" of the rear wall when using single wall pipe. I've heard people argue about this before on Hearth.com and the answer seems to be that if the stove manufacturer tests it and publishes recommended minimum clearances for the pipe at the chimney connector then they trump the standard 18/6 rule.

Also, for the same stove, the clearance for chimney connector to wall for double wall pipe is rated at 10". The limiting factor here being that if the chimney connector was closer than 10" to the wall the back of the stove would be closer than the minimum of 8". There's no reason, in this scenario, that you couldn't bring the double wall pipe within 6" of combustibles after it's left the stove.

Alan

[ajbremer]

10/13/20112 Saturday MidOklahoma

Installed this window today. I got 2 of these 53" x 65" windows for free by posting a note up at
the bulletin board where I work that said, "Wanted: 3 x 5 Windows - See Al". Someone I know
came by and said that they saw the note and that they have a couple window that were taken
out of their house about  6 months ago but she had no idea of what size they were. She also
said that they were brand new when she bought the house and she's opened them up maybe
once. She got new windows, siding, shingles, etc. so that is how I came about getting these
winows.

These windows are about 18" wider and a few inches smaller than my original large openings
so I had to reframe my opening and put in another header under the original header.

I know ya'll are wonder'in if I did it correctly and how I did it. Well, the new header is directly under the
old one. Sawed the left jack stud below the original header just enough to get the new header under it,
that supports the left end of the new triple 2x10 header. Attached a new jack stud under the right side
of the new header and supported it by way of a front facing 2x4 that I ended up cutting to a width
of 2-3/4" and it attaches to an original stud to the right.

For temporary 'get a good look at things' sake, I attached wooden strips flush with the outside osb
and against the inner jack studs to act as a stop. Then I trapped the window in there by way of a
few temporary strips.

Since these two windows are replacement windows, I'm going to put 2x4 cedar trim against the
outside osb which will protrude into the window opening and act as stops. I'll put the window in
against that and then sandwich it with other strips on the inside.

This new window size is also smaller on the height so I had to add almost 6" of height to the original
sill.

Here's a look from the inside:



From the outside:



Here's the 2 windows before I picked them up:

[mountainlady1956]

I love FREE! Might have been some extra work but the windows look good Cathy

[ajbremer]

10/22/2012 Monday MidOklahoma

I just acquired an Ashley Sahara wood stove. It's used, a little dirty, and it's not the one in this
picture but it's the same make and model. Is this a good stove? Probably better than the box
stove that we were going to use...right?



Also installed my toilet and all the pvc main drain under the house. Now I have a celebration video
of the event:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5IfTH0Y3HWM

[ajbremer]

10/23/2012 Tuesday MidOklahoma

I've got running water/kitchen sink/ and shower in bathroom now! I just have to plumb the
vanity in the bathroom yet:

[ajbremer]

Sunday Morning October 28th, 2012

Spent most of yesterday getting an Ashley Sahara Wood Stove set up in my country plan.

I framed a cathedral ceiling support box in, put together a bunch of 2' section of stove pipe and
finally, just before midnight, we had a nice fire going.

This stove was given to me free by a co-worker who has had it on their front porch for 5+ years. They
said the blower motor wasn't working and the back draft plate wouldn't open anymore. They replaced it
with a pellet stove and said all I had to do was to pick it up.

It was packed full of old ash, the blower assembly at the bottom of the stove was full of ash and junk also.
The back damper flap has so much junk around it that it would't budge until I cleaned and vacuumed out
the ash.

We cleaned it up and got everything working. Now, this morning, it's 29 outside and warm in here even though
we have no insulation and inside walls yet. It's heating our 'osb box' really nice!

I had to use 6 sections of 2' pipe including 1 section within the triple wall that goes through the support
box. Does anyone know if they sell black stove pipe in 10' sections? I sure would like to use less sections. Speaking
of stove pipe sections, it's tough trying to assemble stove pipe, isn't there an easy method for trying to press
that one flap into the other!

One last note about all this, the blower of the stove. Wow, that blower really makes the heat come out.

Here's our picture:

[MountainDon]

black stove pipe:  The nicest black pipe is welded pipe, not the snap lock type. It does come in longer lengths and also in telescoping, adjustable length, sections. IMO, it makes for a more attrcative pipe than any snap lock. It also can be had in heavier gauge steel. Costs more too, but that's expected.

Example of type

[ajbremer]

10/30/2012 MidOklahoma

Thanks MountianDon, great information about the stove pipe. All of my 2' sections look ugly to me. I hope I
can find a place nearby where I can drive to in order to get some - as opposed to online.

Today I finally finished putting in all of my windows, my countryplan has 16 of them.

I spent a lot of time trying to repair my Ashley Sahara Wood Stove Blower. I removed it, cleaned it all up,
bench tested it out, WD-40'd it, and it purred like a kitten. BUT, when I put it back in, it didn't seem to work
as good as it did on the bench. Sometimes it'll come on and just hum and I'll give the cages a little manual
push and it'll start. After that it may stay going for a little while but then it'll slow down to a stopped hum.
The electric motor part of the blower looks like a one piece deal. I'm not sure if
I should try to get into it. I wonder if I can simply find a small motor and just attach it to the original
shaft on the end? Has anyone dived into that kind of repair?

Now it's time to finish the bathroom vanity and kitchen sink facets. Then finish the shingles, and then
onto the siding.

[CjAl]

that is usually what happens when the brushes and armature wear down on the motor. you can spin it a few times to get it running but before long it just stops.

if there is a part number on the motor plug it into google and see what you come up with. i but its a pretty standard motor you can get